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Kulfi is the name given to a distinct type of frozen dessert from the Indian subcontinent (originally, though, from the Middle East). Traditionally, this is a denser, more solid dessert than ice cream, because it’s made not from cream but from milk that’s been cooked long and slow—stirred constantly, to prevent it sticking—until it’s thick. Popular traditional flavourings that are still among the most common for kulfi are pistachios, saffron, rose water, and kewda (pandanus).Delhi has a huge number of eateries, large and small, that serve kulfi. For many, it’s a dessert that is actually bought from a shop that specialises in making kulfi. Others make their own, bu
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Kulfi is the name given to a distinct type of frozen dessert from the Indian subcontinent (originally, though, from the Middle East). Traditionally, this is a denser, more solid dessert than ice cream, because it’s made not from cream but from milk that’s been cooked long and slow—stirred constantly, to prevent it sticking—until it’s thick. Popular traditional flavourings that are still among the most common for kulfi are pistachios, saffron, rose water, and kewda (pandanus).
Delhi has a huge number of eateries, large and small, that serve kulfi. For many, it’s a dessert that is actually bought from a shop that specialises in making kulfi. Others make their own, but perhaps only in one or two flavours. A select few specialise only in kulfis.
Among the latter is King’s Kulfi, which has sales counters at various malls and shopping centres across Delhi. We noticed one of these on a visit—on a blistering hot day in May, with the temperature hovering around the 45 degree Celsius mark—in a mall in Saket. The Food Court at the DLF Place Mall is a busy, crowded place, and even though it’s air-conditioned, it was warm enough to make us decide we couldn’t go without treating ourselves to some kulfi.
The King’s Kulfi display counter is a bright red, manned by two staffers, one of whom was attending to customers (and there were lots) while the other refilled the containers with freshly-arrived kulfis. Kulfi is always set in a mould—either a largeish cup-like one, in which case the kulfi is unmoulded and often served with slippery vermicelli-like falooda, on a plate; or as a teeli kulfi. ‘Teeli’ is the Hindi word for twig, and that is roughly what this type of moulded kulfi contains: a light, straight bit of stick rather like a bamboo skewer, which makes the kulfi an Indian ice lolly. King’s Kulfi’s kulfis are largely teeli kulfis.On a backlit panel beside the counter was the list of kulfis on sale, beginning with the cheapest (at Rs 35 per stick), the malai (literally, ‘cream’, meaning plain sweetened kulfi) and the kesar pista (saffron and pistachio). This was followed by the classic Indian flavours: anjeer (fig), paan, thandai (a traditional summer drink, made of ground almonds, melon seeds, cardamom, sugar, milk, and—oddly, though the end result tastes fabulous—black peppercorns); and gulab (rose). These are priced at Rs 40 per stick.
The most expensive (about Rs 50 or 60) are the kulfis in pots, not on sticks: these are in three flavours—mango, kesar pista, and paan. In between are a range of ‘exotic’ flavours, which include butterscotch, Black Forest, dark chocolate, and tutti-frutti; and King’s Kulfi’s pièce de resistance, their fruit kulfis.
The fruit flavours aren’t abundant, but they’re certainly unusual. The Alphonso mango, strawberry, lychee, and black currant flavours didn’t thrill me terribly, but I was interested to see a jaamun sorbet (jaamun is a purple-skinned summer fruit, also known as the Java plum, and rather too astringent for my liking), an anaar (pomegranate) sorbet, and a sharifa kulfi.Sharifa, known in Indian English as custard apple, is one of my favourite fruits: not very sweet, and with a luscious, custard-like taste and texture that I simply adore. For me, therefore, this was a no-brainer: I ordered a sharifa kulfi, and my husband picked a pomegranate sorbet kulfi.
Both were handed over—with a paper napkin wrapped around the ‘handle’ end of the stick to catch drips—and proved delicious. My sharifa kulfi had lovely pieces of custard apple in it, and had that delicate, delicious flavour of fresh custard apple that I like so much. This got a huge thumbs up from me. The pomegranate kulfi was certainly more a sorbet than a kulfi, though it did seem to have some milk in it; the texture and colour didn’t seem to be just frozen pomegranate juice and syrup. This one didn’t taste of much except a general fruitiness. My husband liked it, though, so that was what mattered.
Our kulfis got over very quick—they aren’t large, and you can easily finish one in a minute or less. My kulfi craving was still not satisfied, so we decided to have another one, this time to share. We ordered an Alphonso mango kulfi, which had a good, creamy texture and a discernible flavour of mango. I’m not fond of Alphonso as a type of mango, so that probably contributed to my not going gaga over this one, but I guess Alphonso lovers might like it more than I did.
We paid Rs 126, inclusive of taxes, for our three kulfis: somewhat expensive (considering the kulfis are very modest in size), but the kulfis are pretty good.
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