Via Laietana is a busy interconnecting thoroughfare that runs northwest from Barcelona’s seaport to Placa Urquinaona. Here, it changes its name to Carrer de Pau Claris and continues straight to Avinguda Diagonal, the city’s widest avenue and its most important commercial gateway. West of Via…Read More

Via Laietana is a busy interconnecting thoroughfare that runs northwest from Barcelona’s seaport to Placa Urquinaona. Here, it changes its name to Carrer de Pau Claris and continues straight to Avinguda Diagonal, the city’s widest avenue and its most important commercial gateway. West of Via Laietana is Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, a zone of snaky narrow streets and quaint plazas that are a delight to hang around in and cherish. East of Via Laietana is the district of La Ribera, another medieval quarter of typical narrow streets that seem older and more characterful than those within Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter. Although La Ribera is only a subsequent extension of the Gothic Quarter, it is undoubtedly more graceful and refined, its palatial cluster of period buildings standing as evidence to its affluent and opulent past.

Lively with bars and colourful with souvenir shops, noisy with visitors and treasure-filled with arty oddities are the labyrinthine streets of El Born, an utterly compact area that sits right in the centre of La Ribera. Its main street is Carrer de Montcada, a pedestrianized passageway long enough to contain a dozen or so Gothic palaces, all characterized by huge arched doorways and inner shady courtyards. Squeezed in between the archways or partly holed up in a palace courtyard are specialized shops of all sorts. Needless to say, souvenir shops abound but not all offer good-value items of quality, although most of what’s for sale is somehow or other associated with the cultural aspect of the area. This feeling of culture in El Born is so intense that it is easy to grab from the shop displays a worthless portrait or a bone-china figurine for which you pay good money, assuming you are buying a work of art.

The significance of the term culture is wide-ranging and far-reaching but restricting the meaning of the term to artistic refinement and traditional heritage of distinction, I can claim with certainty after visiting the place that El Born is a cultural legacy of stone and art few other places in the world can match. Graceful to walk along and magical to explore, Carrer de Montcada embraces the largest and richest portion of this resourceful bequest. Not only is this lovely walkway a showplace of some of the best secular medieval stonework structures in Europe but it contains as well enough art galleries and museums as to make visiting all a task of utter exhaustion, particularly if your time here is limited to just a single day. So, it is worth choosing carefully which places are most appealing to your tastes and then restrict yourself to visiting these only. After all, it is better to revel in the displays of one or two museums that really interest you rather than getting in and out from one place to another seeing everything but relishing nothing.

Regardless of time restriction, regardless of your interests, Carrer de Montcada accommodates one particular art museum that should however on no account be missed out, even if your interest in art does not go beyond recognizing the difference between a classicist and an impressionist painting. Dedicated to one of the world’s greatest creators of art and revolutionary art techniques, this extraordinary exhibition space contains an amazing display of artworks, conveniently placed in a chronological order so as to follow the life and artistic development of their skilful composer.

No Spanish painter was more creative, innovative and versatile than Pablo Picasso and this museum is rightly and deservedly dedicated to him. The range of exhibits that date back to Picasso’s young age is by far more comprehensive than exhibits from his later works, giving the false impression that Picasso belongs to the traditional school of realist painters. But as one ventures into the artist’s later-day exhibits, one becomes aware of Picasso’s real artistic talent and his amazing ability to experiment with styles, techniques and colour. His ‘Blue Period’ compositions, well represented in the museum constitute a journey into the poorest and most pitiful states of human degradation (poverty, loneliness, melancholy and despair). This he achieved through the use of dark shades of blue and blue-green, warmed occasionally by other dark and sombre colours. Picasso’s ‘Rose Period’ creations, maybe insufficiently and sparsely represented in the museum are more lively and colourful, demonstrating the artist’s excellent skill in the use of vivid colours to symbolize cheerfulness, light-heartedness and joy. The artist’s years of maturity were dedicated to cubism, an odd style of art which he pioneered with Georges Braque. The number of cubist Picasso paintings and ceramic pieces in the museum is considerable and is possibly enough to render the evolution of Picasso’s most notable style understandable, if not appraisable as well. In this regard, the ‘Las Meninas’ set of exhibits is outstanding both with regards to its wonderful polychrome design and the line technique used.

It is said that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and Picasso’s experimentation with colour and style may not be your cup of tea, preferring instead more traditional or conservative art. Even if you fall within this category, you can still ignore the exhibits (oh, what a disgrace!) and concentrate solely on the building which is unquestionably a monumental attraction in its own right. It is true that the palatial cluster of centuries-old buildings in which the museum is housed is more appropriate for an orthodox rather than an avant-garde genre of art but… who can criticise, once aware of the fact that this was chosen by dear old Pablo himself during his lifetime?

The whole museum complex consists of five interconnected palaces, three of which (architecturally the most interesting and unquestionably the best preserved) house permanent exhibits. The other two, added to the museum during the last decade are used for temporary exhibitions that are not necessarily associated with Picasso. The palaces are delightful to wander around, the distinctive Gothic features of each being perhaps the most notable and eye-catching attraction. The central courtyard that dominates the interior of each palace is a magical haunt, an intimate place surrounded with rows of pointed arches, slender fluted pillars, flamboyant window decorations and Gothic sculptures that are as beautiful (though stylistically so different) as the Picasso collections. The open-air staircase that leads from the courtyard to the first floor is as characterful as the coffered medieval ceilings or the exquisite arched galleries inside. Make it a point to go around each of the palaces one by one so as not to lose on the distinctive characteristics each building incorporates.

Across the street from the Picasso Museum are two grand buildings that deserve more than a passing glance. Their lovely courtyards accommodate intimate cafeterias where one can linger in an atmosphere of tranquillity and homeliness. One of these buildings known as Palau Nadal houses the Museu Barbier-Mueller d’Art Precolombi, a unique exhibition centre that contains one of the world’s greatest collections of primitive art. Most of the exhibits consist of prehistoric artefacts excavated from Africa, Oceania, Asia and the Americas. Large collections dating back to early civilisations in Europe and the East Indies are also on display. Amidst piles of ancient ceramics and ornamental knickknacks, one finds lots of religious paintings and sculptures. Of particular beauty are the gold necklaces from Peru and the set of jade figurines from the Olmec Mexican civilization.

Further southeast on Carrer de Montcada is a graceful baroque palazzo where music spectacles (live opera, flamenco concerts and guitar singing) are held for visitors whose ear for music is as good as their eye for architectural charm. Known as the Palau de Dalmases, it is undeniably a unique place (albeit downright expensive) where one can enjoy music in an atmosphere of utter romanticism surrounded with hundreds of flickering candles, historical paintings, old tapestries and classical sculptures. Equally atmospheric and equally expensive is the culture-conscious bar in the courtyard where more classy music and flamenco dancing prolong unceasingly into the wee hours of the morning.

Further southeast and within earshot of the extreme end of Carrer de Montcada rises the Eglesia de Santa Maria del Mar, Barcelona’s finest Gothic place of worship. Not as superfluously decorated as the city’s Cathedral, it is nonetheless more Gothic in the sense that its Gothic structural features are more distinctly visible and clearly defined. Its external architecture, except the Placa de Santa Maria façade is almost entirely hidden amidst the narrow streets of La Ribera and consequently hard to explore. But once inside, one is surprised to find a three-aisled space, simple in design but great on refinement and architectural aesthetics. The tall slender pilasters that support the roof vaulting are a wonder of harmony and proportion. How can such a small number of pilasters take in the weight of the enormous roof?   Close

A one-mile stroll along La Rambla from Placa de Catalunya to the Monument a Colom takes less than an hour but the surprises and attractions that spring along the way make lingering around necessary if one wishes to relish the experience and get more than…Read More

A one-mile stroll along La Rambla from Placa de Catalunya to the Monument a Colom takes less than an hour but the surprises and attractions that spring along the way make lingering around necessary if one wishes to relish the experience and get more than a general overview.

My first stopover was at the Palau de la Virreina, a baroque and neoclassical mansion that similar to other buildings in the area succeeded in thriving through more than two centuries of weathering and environmental pollution. The building’s exterior though majestic and enchanting is presently black and dirty and is urgently asking for a facelift. But this should in no way deter you from setting foot inside (entry is free) to see what this bustling cultural centre has to offer. Devoted mostly to temporary art exhibitions, it is the place to visit if you wish to come face to face with a diversity of contemporary Catalan works of art, predominantly on aspects of Barcelona. Still photography is well represented maybe to a greater extent than other forms of art, but paintings by prominent contemporary Catalan artists, projection of videos and films produced by amateur Spanish film makers, new book publications and other audiovisual creations are given a fair share as well. An excellent gift shop and cultural information point on the ground floor are additional conveniences.

A stone’s throw further south just off La Rambla is Barcelona’s legendary indoor food market and maybe Spain’s most colourful and exquisite assemblage of fruit, vegetable and fish retail stalls. This amazing ground floor metal-roofed space of generous dimensions is officially known as the Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria as is clearly manifest from the colourful plaque that hangs above the main doorway. But in ten days I spent in Barcelona, I have never heard anybody referring to the place with its full name but rather more conveniently as La Boqueria.

Wandering through the passageways between rows of stalls amidst crowds of locals and the smell of fresh fish, freshly-baked bread and wholesome cuts of meat is an experience that food lovers will cherish with delight. Stopping in front of a stall to choose a seafood platter, a fresh-fruit bowl, a cup of exotic dried fruit or a plate of soaring tapas is an indulgence in the yummiest titbits Barcelona offers. The endless alleys of stalls at La Boqueria embrace incredible displays of all the appetizing goodies one may ever crave for. La Boqueria’s riot of colour and the neat orderly presentation of the products on display are unquestionably a feast for the eyes. Some enthusiastic visitors claim as well that the displays are in addition a work of art put up by arty vendors in a competitive attempt to attract the largest number of buyers possible.

Once the craving for typical Barcelona gastronomy was satisfied with enticing nibbles of good food and inventive snacks from La Boqueria, I walked further south with map in hand in an attempt to locate Barcelona’s Opera House. The Gran Teatre del Liceu, as Barcelona’s Opera House is known has a basic commonplace front elevation devoid of architectural ornamentation. With such an unpretentious façade, definitely undeserving for the main theatre of Catalonia’s capital, it is easy to give it a miss and leave it out of one’s itinerary. But a compensation for this shortage of exterior splendour is unquestionably provided inside. The huge horseshoe-shaped five-tier auditorium which one can admire from the stalls on the fourth floor is a gaudy gilded display of no-expense-spared extravaganza comprising more than two thousand metal-cast seats wrapped in elegant deep red drapery. A spectacular more-gold archway supported on Corinthian columns right in front of the stage and eight circular panelled roof paintings depicting landscape scenes add to the opulence of the place. In addition to the auditorium, another special attraction inside is the Hall of Mirrors, a sumptuous baroque hall with gilded stucco, ceiling frescoes, pictures of prominent musicians and well … a lot of glittering mirrors.

Even if you can’t afford a night of opera at the Liceu (tickets for any performance cost at least 60 Euro), you can still visit the place either on a twenty-minute unguided tour (daily at 11:30 am, noon, 12:30 pm, 1:00 pm) or on a seventy-minute guided tour (daily at 10:00 am). Before you leave, try your luck to locate the room (it’s right behind the souvenir shop) where an informative documentary about the history of the theatre and the equipment that goes into staging a production is screened from time to time.

After soaking up the solemn ambience of Barcelona’s Opera House, it is time to look for something more undemanding and frivolous. Nowhere within the city is better for a chill-out break in an ambience of palm trees and arched passageways than Placa Reial. Only steps away from the Liceu and just off La Rambla’s alternative boulevard, this is a spot where a plethora of eateries, bars and outdoor dining spaces abound. Finding a table here and starting a conversation with local hang-abouts is as easy as ABC even if your Spanish does not go beyond ‘si’ or ‘hola’. Any Barcelona resident one meets here seems to be a Gaudi enthusiast, flattering the architect’s collection of decorative lamps on the square beyond justification.

Back on the opposite side of La Rambla and only a few steps further south is Barcelona FC clubhouse. Merely a miniature substitute for the huge fully-equipped club at Camp Nou, it is not reserved solely for members but welcomes anybody whose interest in football goes beyond knowing the difference between a throw-in and a corner kick. In actual fact, the place is more than anything else a colourful sports bar, obviously with Barcelona FC as its main centre of attraction. Having been here when the Barcelona team was on the field was an exciting experience I had never cherished before. Supporters raised glasses and cheered whenever Lionel Messi or Gerard Pique or any other venerated player on the field hit the ball or tackled an opponent. This great place is needless to say not a stadium but the giant TV screens and the atmosphere provide the best alternative to the real thing. Breakfast specials are served daily from 6:00 am onwards while piled plates of tapas accompanied with beer on tap are on hand soon after. Do not bid farewell to the party of enthusiastic supporters before you choose a memento of the Barcelona team from the distinctive range available. For a reason one can easily make out, this seems to be expected of anybody who visits the place.

Further south as the sixty-metre high Colombus Monument comes into view, La Rambla becomes wider and grander mutating into a seaside resort that offers extensive views of Port Vell. For an impressive bird’s-eye view over the harbour, one can take the narrow elevator to the small viewing platform at the top of the Colombus Monument. Using a pair of binoculars from this vantage point is tantamount to getting an advantageous orientation of the harbour in view of rendering a stroll along the piers easy and painless.

A walk along Moll de les Drassanes and its continuation Moll de la Fusta is synonymous with absorbing the lively atmosphere that prevails on Barcelona’s harbour quays. Popular with visitors and locals alike, this spacious shoreline promenade is graced with benches that afford easy moments of comfort with a view. Endless rows of colourful boats and yachts moored to the piers provide enough spots of observation to keep sightseers occupied for hours. Keep an eye out for the Transbordador Aeri, the cable car stretched across the harbour from the Sant Sebastia Tower to the Montjuic Hill southwest of the city centre.

Before resuming your tour of the harbour shoreline, make a brief stop halfway along Moll de la Fusta to see the schooner Santa Eulalia. Moored to the Fusta quayside since 1998 when its restoration was faithfully and fully completed, Santa Eulalia is a unique example of a three-masted schooner that is still operative after almost two centuries sailing the waters. Adapted to take thirty passengers on half-day excursions, it does not use wind power any longer although masts, sails and rigging are fully in place and in running order. You can climb on board to explore the secrets of sailing and tons of maritime memorabilia.

If your visit of the harbour area happens to be on a Saturday or a Sunday, you have one extra point of interest to look into. On weekends from 11:00 am to 9:00 pm, the pier in front of the Colombus Monument is transformed into a lively arena of stalls where vendors display a random assortment of antiques and collector’s items. Known as the Brocanters del Port Vell, it is the place to come if you want to purchase vintage china figurines, brass ornaments, old watches and military paraphernalia. Striking a bargain is easy; wandering around amidst flocks of local punters is equally exciting and pleasurable.
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Madrid is undeniably a city of culture and art par excellence. The capital of Catalonia although likewise graced with scores of museums and artistic centres does not transmit a feeling of enlightenment or artistic enrichment that is so manifestly evident in Madrid. Coming to…Read More

Madrid is undeniably a city of culture and art par excellence. The capital of Catalonia although likewise graced with scores of museums and artistic centres does not transmit a feeling of enlightenment or artistic enrichment that is so manifestly evident in Madrid. Coming to Barcelona from Madrid is a culture shock. Whereas Madrid is endowed with historical buildings of tradition that reflect the potency and wealth of imperial Spain, Barcelona is more unrestrained and open to change. Although the Catalan capital has likewise a fair share of rich medieval heritage (maybe modest in quantity but perhaps more exquisite with regards to aesthetic beauty), the latter is a hidden asset, not a predominant feature as in Madrid. Barcelona’s attitude to open-mindedness and its ability to accept innovation and contemporaneity while preserving traditions and customs have produced a city that is as diverse as New York or Tokyo. Barcelona’s diversity and contrasting points of view have no limit.

One must necessarily consider first of all the avant-garde mentality of its heterogeneous population. A stroll along La Rambla (Barcelona’s most popular tree-lined promenade) from Placa de Catalunya to the Monument a Colom is enough to give one an insight into the character of its inhabitants. Carefree but hardworking beyond a forty-hour week, multilingual and yet they speak a peculiar language that is unlike Castilian Spanish, noisy and over-enthusiastic about festivities, religious celebrations, fireworks and football (Barcelona FC has its clubhouse on La Rambla) but still good-mannered and cultured, the people of Barcelona constitute a multicultural society that is constantly setting its sights on something new. Be it a dish of traditional Catalan fare seasoned with an unfamiliar creation of herbal concoctions, be it an artistic setup composed of beer cans and strands of wire, be it a vague imitation of a Picasso oil twisted and distorted so as to seem original, everything in Barcelona bespeaks creativity and suggests departure from convention.

Walk along La Rambla and you will discover how unemployed Catalan youths succeed through necessity in becoming mothers of invention. With a lot of ingenuity but only one basic cutting tool, a teenager was shaping ashtrays out of beer cans. His creative ability and nimble hands drew crowds as large as the ‘montaditos’ kiosk next door. He seemed to be making good money, selling each handmade article as fast as production could allow. A short distance further down and only a stone’s throw from Barcelona’s colourful Boqueria market, (an obvious vantage point for business) another teenager was engaged in the handmade production of wicker baskets. His girlfriend sitting nearby was contributing to the business through the creation of embroidered Barcelona souvenirs (yellow-and-red Barcelona emblems, miniature replicas of Gaudi’s architectural ripples and stained-glass windows, the words ‘Park Guell’ or ‘Sagrada Familia’ – all hand-embroidered on linen). Customers were allowed to choose a preferred piece of wickerwork and a matching patch of embroidery from the display. With the embroidered patch skilfully stitched on to the wicker basket in a couple of minutes, an exclusive souvenir of Barcelona, completely handmade and impossible to get elsewhere was ready to be handed to the client. Isn’t this inventive skill at its best and resourcefulness beyond imagination?

This feeling of ground-breaking ingenuity and inventiveness is experienced everywhere throughout Barcelona. Be it the regeneration of the Barceloneta coastline, be it the Rambla de Mar wave-shaped footbridge, be it the monumental Cascada in the Parc de la Ciutadella, be it the collection of exhibits in the Museu d’Art Contemporani, every attraction hints at innovation and creative ability. There are as well several spots within the city where innovation is so enthusiastic that it becomes an out-of-the-ordinary spectacle, curious to explore and freakish to look at.

Responsible for this bizarre style of artistry was a generation of artists and designers who for forty odd years between 1880 and 1920 through their queer architectural conceptions and achievements succeeded in changing the physical face of Barcelona. Known as the Modernista Movement and inspired by a diversity of architectural styles, this group of aficionados set out on an adventure of surrealism that eliminated straight lines, sharp corners and conventional rectangular window frameworks from structural designs and introduced instead smooth-flowing lines, curvilinear openings and ripple creations that flowed, bulged and retracted rhythmically.

The most prominent Modernista architect whose glorious achievements are to this day outstandingly apparent and unmistakably conspicuous is none other than Antoni Gaudi. Several buildings scattered around the city particularly in the district of L’Eixample give testimony to his extraordinary ability for giving life to architectural concepts that are not only innovative but strikingly peculiar. Midway on Passeig de Gracia is one of his monumental archetypes: Casa Batllo. Using sandstone as the fundamental material of construction, he incorporated in the design oval windows, bone-like stone pillars, ceramic discs, fragmented tiles, coloured glass and a spectacular roof (covered with overlapping scales) that looks like a dragon’s back. The interior is equally fascinating. Rooms are not rectangular and do not have straight edges or sharp corners. Their curvaceous shapes are as unique as the arches that support the weight of their roofs. The rows of pointed arches (a creative mix of distorted Gothic and contorted Art Nouveau) in the main salon are from an engineering point of view the work of a real master.

Further north on Passeig de Gracia, only a short distance away from Avinguda Diagonal is another Gaudi magnum opus. Not as colourful or eye-catching as Casa Batllo, La Pedrera is nonetheless equally amazing. The most striking external feature is the wave-shaped stone design that incorporates large sinuous balconies lined with wrought-iron decorative work. Crowning the complex is a bizarre rooftop adorned with queer-looking chimneys and dozens of equally queer-looking sculptures. The anomalous decorations and furnishings one sees inside are all Gaudi conceptions as controversial as the external undulating design. The avant-garde aspect of the interior is a sure sign of Gaudi’s ability to depart from convention and focus on contemporary styles. Even by present-day standards, La Pedrera’s century-old interior still appears as modern as any twenty-first century showplace of innovation.

A long distance north of the centre but easily reachable by Bus 24 from Placa de Catalunya is another Gaudi attraction. Gaudi tried his hand at anything provided his appointees for the job allowed him to exercise his talents without restriction. On this occasion, his magnum opus was Park Guell, an unusual landscaped garden which he completed with roads, walkways, steps, artificial rock formations, mosaic-tiled benches and an open roofed space supported on…well, columns. Gaudi’s innovative curiosities are undeniably a source of inquiry for those visitors who want to give credit to Gaudi’s work with more than a passing glance. What is, for example the reason for using both upright and leaning columns to support the roof of the Sala Hipostila? Is the purpose functional or is it perhaps an eye-catching detail thrown in to grab attention? Is the mosaic dragon watching over the steps a symbol of strength and courage or is it put in simply for reasons of embellishment and ornamentation? What is the reason for inserting a serpentine row of mosaic-tiled benches rather than a normal straight row? Is it only for the sake of pioneering the design?

Whatever the answers to these questions, Park Guell is beautiful and its appealing beauty emanates first and foremost from its unexpected and at times quasi-absurd attractions. It is easy to criticise Gaudi for his lack of non-functionality in most of the works he executed but… the crowds who visit Barcelona simply to see Gaudi’s works face to face are more concerned with his shocking designs rather than with their practical application. His works may be non-functional but never dull, lifeless or unimaginative.

The culmination of Gaudi’s colourful career was reached in the awe-inspiring church of the Sagrada Familia. As one exits the metro station right opposite the church, one is faced with a behemoth of stone so massive that it is impossible not to stop for breath in front of this colossal symbol of extravaganza. Looking from this vantage point at the majestic height and eccentricity of the eight needle-like spires that have been completed by now (ten more are supposed to be completed by 2026) is enough to realize why the church is still unfinished after more than a century. It is easy to get disoriented on approaching this sacred monster because as you go around, you will encounter three main entrances and not one. The grandest is the Nativity entrance, a triple doorway highly decorated with plaster casts of animals, scenes from nature and needless to say, Christ’s manger amidst shepherds and more animals.

Going inside is a feast for the eyes… or some think, a confusion for the mind. The forest of double-twisted pilasters that supports the weight of the roof unfolds into tree-like branches that are unquestionably amazing to look at. Going up the spires on the side of the Nativity doorway by a combination of lifts and stairs is unsuitable for acrophobes.
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The Barcelona Airport information agent answered my question without hesitation, "See as many pieces of Gaudi's works as possible." Not the food, not the shopping, not even the famed Las Ramblas. I had done my homework, reading up for my trip. Architect and designer Antoni…Read More

The Barcelona Airport information agent answered my question without hesitation, "See as many pieces of Gaudi's works as possible." Not the food, not the shopping, not even the famed Las Ramblas. I had done my homework, reading up for my trip. Architect and designer Antoni Gaudi, who lived 1852 - 1926, is the most internationally prestigious figure in Spanish architecture. He is also one of the most revered personalities in Spain, particularly in Barcelona where his work is concentrated.
Catalonia is an autonomous region of Spain in the north-east portion of the Iberian Peninsula, with the official status of a "nationality." Its capital city is Barcelona, the center of "Modernisme," the term depicting a cultural movement by the people of Catalonia for national identity. And Gaudi is generally considered the grand master of Catalan Modernism in its heyday. World architectural experts have hailed his work, while adhering to Modernisme, to even go beyond that, being characterized by the predominance of the curve over the straight line, the expression of asymmetry, and the integration with various crafts such as stained glass, wrought iron forging and carpentry.
Well, one would be hard-pressed not to see it as he approaches it. And I was no exception. Casa Batllo’s front façade sure looked like a bunch of bone features to me, a layman when it comes to architecture. In fact, I later found out that the locals call it "Casa dels ossos" or the House of Bones. Built in 1877, it was restored and partially remodeled by Gaudi during 1904 - 1906. He focused on the facade, the main floor, the patio and the roof, and built a fifth floor for the staff. The facade is of Montjuic sandstone cut to create warped ruled surfaces, the columns are bone-shaped with vegetable decoration. Gaudi kept the original rectangular shape of the building's balconies - with iron railings in the shape of masks - giving the rest of the facade an ascending undulating form. He also faced the facade with ceramic fragments of various colors ("trencadis"), which Gaudi obtained from the waste material of the Pelegri glass works. The interior courtyard is roofed by a skylight supported by an iron structure in the shape of a double T, which rests on a series of caternary aches. The helicoidal chimneys are a notable feature of the roof, topped with conical caps, covered in clear glass in the center and ceramics at the top, and surmounted by clear glass balls filled with sand of different colors. Much of the facade is decorated with a mosaic made of broken ceramic tiles ("trencadis") that starts in shades of golden orange moving into greenish blues. The roof is arched and likened to the back of a dragon. At the first floor level of the undulating facade is a striking stone structure in the form of loggia supported by columns with frame fine windows decorated with stained glass. The ceramics and multi-colored glass mosaics of the upper part are interrupted by iron balconies in the form of venetian masks. Crowning the whole is a suggestive tile roof over double garrets, which evokes the back of a dragon. Casa Batllo gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 2005.
Casa Mila, better known as La Pedrera, was designed by Gaudi and built during 1905 - 1910. What a humongous building, I thought to myself, as I first saw it standing at the corner located at 92 Passeig de Gracia in Barcelona's Example district.
The brochures available at its gift store combined with my walk-through helped me to really appreciate what a fine and unique piece of architecture La Pedrea is. Gaudi designed the house around two large, curved courtyards, with a structure of stone, brick and cast-iron columns and steel beams. The façade is built of limestone from Vilafranca del Penedes, apart from the upper level, which is covered in white tiles, evoking a snowy mountain. It has a total of five floors, plus a loft made entirely of caternary arches, as well as two large interior courtyards, one circular and one oval. I particularly noticed the roof, topped with the four-armed cross, and the chimneys, covered in ceramics and with shapes that suggest mediaeval helmets. It was a controversial design at the time for its bold forms of the undulating stone façade and wrought iron decoration of the balconies and windows. In 1984, Casa Mila was declared World Heritage by UNESCO. Another interesting fact is that Gaudi wanted its occupants to know each other so he designed lifts on every other floor only so people had more interaction and thus had to communicate with one another from different floors.
Perhaps his most famous work, during the last years of his career, Gaudi devoted almost exclusively to Sagrada Familia, a monumental church to say the least, whose formal name, in English, is Basilica and Expiatory Church of the Holy Family. I arrived at a morning hour that I thought was early, but the line of waiting visitors had already stretched from the front around to the left side of the cathedral, with more visitors to follow as the minutes ticked. Across from it, on limited open space ingenuous merchants had set up shop, selling a wide variety of souvenir items and snacks. In fact, on the sidewalk slightly from the curb, merchants had placed at various spots small tables and chairs for those who just wanted to sit, have a soda, relax and take in the majestic view of Sagrada Familia. I overheard from a passing tour guide that the wait to get inside the cathedral was going to be almost two hours. Taking a cue from other visitors, I bought a cold soda and some snacks and quickly grabbed an empty chair and claimed the table nearest to it. This was going to be my base for taking in the grandeur of the Sagrada Familia. Among the many expert comments I read, Sagrada Familia can be summed up as Gaudi’s achievement of perfect harmony between structural and ornamental elements, between plastic and aesthetic, between function and form, between container and content, achieving the integration of all arts in one structured, logical work. It is probably the most remarkable cathedral in Europe, and it’s not even finished yet! It was in an unfinished state at the time of Gaudi’s death in 1926, the work stopped in 1936 and resumed sixteen years later in 1952. Projected completion is in 2026, the centennial of Gaudi’s death. At completion, there would be extraordinary facades representing the birth, death and resurrection of Christ with eighteen towers or spires symbolizing the twelve Apostles, the four Evangelists, the Virgin Mary and the Christ. UNESCO bestowed 2 titles of World Heritage status – one for the Nativity façade and the other for the crucifixion façade. I could see that visitors may be confused into thinking that these facades represent the front and the back of the cathedral, when in fact they are actually the sides.
Locals I encountered invariably mentioned Parc Guell, a municipal garden on the hill of El Carmel in Barcelona’s Gracia district. On a pleasant Spring morning, I started off from Placa de Catalunya, the huge square just minutes by foot from my hotel, by taking the #24 bus. I had deliberately planned this particularly long ride, with the idea of leisurely seeing the various Barcelona’s neighborhoods from one end of the city to another. Parc Guell was originally part of a commercially unsuccessful housing site; of sixty lots, only two houses were built, and Gaudi occupied one of them from 1906 to his death in 1926. Among the many examples of Gaudi’s designing genius evident here is the huge plaza, surrounding by a long winding bench in the form of a sea serpent. The bench has small semi-enclosed areas where the facing of a brightly colored ceramics creates a spectacular collage.Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984, at its highest point Parc Guell offers a panoramic view of the city and the bay, including the Familia.
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During our holiday to Salou we decided to visit the world famous city of Barcelona on a day trip. We got tickets from the local bus company Plana for €19 per person for a return ticket. This wasn't too bad a price as the bus…Read More

During our holiday to Salou we decided to visit the world famous city of Barcelona on a day trip. We got tickets from the local bus company Plana for €19 per person for a return ticket. This wasn't too bad a price as the bus was very comfortable but does not have toilets! I know that you can also get a train to Barcelona but I didn’t want to do the journey without looking it up first so decided to take the bus instead. The journey from Salou takes around 1 hour and a half depending on traffic which can become very busy during peak times. The bus times need to be checked as they are not that regular especially at night and stop after a certain time.

When we arrived in Barcelona we were overwhelmed by how big it really is, we had been advised by a local tour guide to walk down Las Ramblas towards the harbour as there are plenty of shops, restaurants and things to see. The walk took about half an hour each way and we were able to leisurely look in the shops and watch the street performers as we went. We also enjoyed looking in the local tourists shops, a warning about the tourists shops here though, the staff are very pushy and regularly try to get you to buy items so you have to be quite stern with them in saying no if you don't want to buy anything. However you can always haggle the price in the tourist shops which is always fun trying to get a bargain souvenir! A great tip for tourists visiting Barcelona is the fact that the department store El Corte Ingles give a 10% discount to all tourists! Definitely one to remember if you like shopping! Barcelona is a fantastic place to shop for many items including clothes, perfumes and other luxury items.
Barcelona is a very busy city, bustling with people everywhere, you must remember to look after your belongings and wear bags in front of you due to the sheer velocity of people around, you should always be aware of where you are and where your belongings are especially as you will stick out like a sore thumb for being a tourist! As it is so busy make sure that you keep hold of children at all times. Another warning for people with children is that parts of Barcelona are known for their prostitutes and adult shops. This is especially more apparent during the evening.

When we got to the harbour we were quite tired but were glad to find a bench to sit on and look out at the different boats. Slightly up the harbour I saw an old looking ship, we went to investigate and found out that it was a replica 15th century war ship which people could walk around for only €3 each! This was really fun and informative as all of the information signs were in English as well as Spanish and French.


There are plenty of places to eat including cafes, restaurants and fast food stands. Some of the more familiar places to eat include McDonalds and Hard Rock Cafe. These are all very nusy and getting a table can be quite tricky but not impossible.

I would advise that you plan before you go what you want to do in Barcelona as the city is so big that you can't afford to be getting lost and wearing yourself out. There is so much to do in Barcelona that one trip simply isn’t enough but remember to pace yourselves and have fun!

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If there is a famous name that everyone associates with the city of Barcelona, then it has to be that of the architect Antonio Gaudi. His work has influenced this city so much, and you can find his creations all over Barcelona. His…Read More

If there is a famous name that everyone associates with the city of Barcelona, then it has to be that of the architect Antonio Gaudi. His work has influenced this city so much, and you can find his creations all over Barcelona. His style of architecture is unique and distinctive, certainly not to everyone's taste, but you don't have to like it, to appreciate it.

I have long wanted to visit Barcelona to see some of the Gaudi buildings and was not disappointed by what I found when I got there. They are a delight to the eye and quite unlike anything I have ever seen anywhere else on my travels.

Gaudi was born not far from Barcelona in a town called Reus in 1865. He received his architecture degree in 1878 and then started to design. His interests and passions in life were architecture, nature and religion, as well as Catalonia, the region of his birth. He tried to bring all of these topics into his work.

Today, most people will agree that the work of Gaudi is breath-taking. He uses curved lines, mosaics and lots of colour in most of his creations.

When he was a student in Barcelona, Gaudi lived in the Barri Gotic. Later, he lived in a house in the Parc Guell with his father and niece. This house is now the Gaudi museum. He died in 1925 as the result of a tram accident. Several months before his death, he moved into the workshop at the Sagrada Familia - his project at that time. At the Sagrada Familia they have his old desk, just how he left it when he died - very poignant and moving.

The Gaudi creations which I especially enjoyed seeing in Barcelona are:

* the lamp posts in the Placa Reial in the Barri Gotic. This was Gaudi's first project in Barcelona.

* the Sagrada Familia - breath-taking even though it is still a work in progress. This was probably Gaudi's masterpiece and is stunning.

* Casa Mila - a residential building that is actually curved. It has wonderful twisted iron balconies and the best roof terrace I have ever experienced.

* Casa Batllo - not far from Casa Mila, this was a residence owned by a Barcelona family. Gaudi designed the crazy exterior, but also designed the interior, so you get to enjoy his work inside as well as outside. There is another amazing roof terrace here too.

* Parc Guell - a lovely park where you can just wander. It is on a hill and the views over the city are beautiful. There are also lovely gardens and manicured areas with Gaudi works dotted here and there throughout the park.

Some of Gaudi's creations are now World Heritage Sites. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring and getting to know more about the creations of the man sometimes known as "God's Architect."   Close

There is all sorts of food to try in Barcelona - the choice is wonderful.Anyone with a taste for chocolate will be in seventh heaven. The chocolate shops which you will find absolutely everywhere, are filled with chocolate in imaginative shapes. We saw…Read More

There is all sorts of food to try in Barcelona - the choice is wonderful.
Anyone with a taste for chocolate will be in seventh heaven. The chocolate shops which you will find absolutely everywhere, are filled with chocolate in imaginative shapes. We saw everything from ships, houses, ferris wheels, trains, Barcelona football things and even Spongebob Squarepants. Be sure to try the hot chocolate and churros. Apparently the best shops for hot chocolate are Granja Viader and Chocolateria Valor (Calle Tapineria 10). However, if you just try the hot chocolate in your neighbourhood, it will be good - that was what we found anyway!
The pastries are also delightful in Barcelona. In every bakery there are tempting and wonderful pastries to try - madalenas, ensaimadas, bunelas and estrellas.
The Barri Gotic or old town is full of tapas bars, cava bars and lovely little restaurants. There are also some very touristy places too, but even these are pretty reasonable. The tourist places tend to do a set menu, with salad followed by paella or tapas and a glass of beer or sangria for around 15-20 Euros per person. We ate in one of these places on our first evening and did enjoy the food and the experience.
The Placa Reial in the old town though is the place to go for very nice restaurants and good food. Some places had long queues and you do pay a mark up for a beer in this square, but the people watching opportunities are second to none.
There are also lots of cafes, bars and restaurants along the Ramblas offering tapas and paella. Many of these places have terraces on the Ramblas itself, again we dined out at one of these and enjoyed the food and the experience very much.
La Boqueria is the main food market on the Ramblas. It is a wonderful place to visit just for the sake of visiting, but you get great snacks, fruit salads and lovely fruit juice drinks. Our son was mesmorised by the man there who made pancakes - we visited his stall twice - the pancakes cost 4.50 euros, but the spectacle of him making them and the taste, made them worth it.
Port Vell has a number of very nice and slightly more expensive restaurants. We ate in one of these on our last night and had a delicious meal with wine. It cost 80 euros, but the quality of the food was excellent. In these restaurants, you also get a lovely view of the harbour and the yachts and we saw an amazing sunset over the city.
Also try and eat in one of the fish restaurants in Barceloneta - the old fishermen's quarter. The fresh fish they serve is absolutely delicious, the restaurant we ate in looked like it had been once an old warehouse, so that added to the atmosphere.    Close

* The Mediterranean climate means that Barcelona is rarely uncomfortably cold, even in winter. It can though be very hot and humid in the summertime. Early summer and autumn are the ideal times to visit, especially May to June and September to October.…Read More

* The Mediterranean climate means that Barcelona is rarely uncomfortably cold, even in winter. It can though be very hot and humid in the summertime. Early summer and autumn are the ideal times to visit, especially May to June and September to October. In winter, days are crisp but often sunny and snow is rare. Most rainfall is in April. We found this to be true during our visit. It rained a couple of days, but actually did not feel unpleasant as the temperatures were still warm. July and August are very hot and humid - even at night. We visited in the past in July and had rainfall then too, so you never know. It does work though year around as a family break destination. If you do schedule your trip for the summer you can take advantage of the city's 4 golden sandy beaches. We did manage to spend one afternoon on the beach in April too!

* Buy reminders of all the Gaudi artwork you see everywhere in Barcelona. There are mosaics, tiles and miniature mosaic houses and Gaudi dragons - they all make good souvenirs.

* Look out for the Gaudi pavements all over the city. The pavements have Gaudi designs on them that he used on the floors in his houses. On the Passeig de Gracia, look out for hexagonal shapes with sea motifs. In other parts of the city, keep your eyes peeled for square pavement tiles with flower designs. On the Ramblas there are wavy patterns everywhere.

* Barcelona is very child friendly and every establishment we went to was pleased to see children. They do not tend to serve their evening meals until 9pm or sometimes even later, so it is actually good to be like locals and have a siesta after lunch. Most of the touristy restaurants though, do serve food all day.

* Apparently Barcelona is one of Europe's pick pocketing capitals. We had no problems, but you do need to be alert in crowded places like the train stations and the Ramblas. The subway is said to be a hotbed for pick pocketing activity and they have films showing down there warning you to beware. Apparently it can range from simple opportunistic thefts to co-ordinated attacks. The platform at Sants train station and the one at Sagrada Familia are places where you are warned to be especially careful. Hold on to your bag at all times and never leave anything unattended while you are in a cafe. We had a drink in one place off the Ramblas, the lady working there warned us to keep our camera close, apparently 2 bags had been stolen earlier that day! Beware of anone trying to touch you and only carry the cash you need, never your passport. Keep a close eye on your camera and never put it on the table in front of you in a cafe. Violent crime is uncommon, and we had no problems whatsoever, but you just need to be alert and careful.   Close

* There is no shortage of flights to Barcelona, including low cost flights from lots of airports, both main and regional. We flew on a scheduled Monarch flight from the UK and found it to be perfect. On the flight, we sat on…Read More

* There is no shortage of flights to Barcelona, including low cost flights from lots of airports, both main and regional. We flew on a scheduled Monarch flight from the UK and found it to be perfect. On the flight, we sat on the left hand side of the cabin and got the most incredible views of the snow capped Pyrenees on the way to Barcelona.

* El Prat airport is 12km southwest of the city and has options for fast, easy travel to the centre. There are express buses, trains and taxis. Some budget airlines fly to Girona Airport 80km away with connecting buses to Barcelona. We flew to El Prat airport. We took a taxi when we arrived - the driver was a a bit of a crazy driver, we held our breath a couple of times, but got safely there in the end. It cost 36 Euros from the airport to our hotel in the old town. On the way back, we took the metro and train. This was fast and efficient and good value for money. The trains to the airport are regular and convenient.

* The metro or underground system in the city is excellent. It is clean and efficient and trains come about every 3 minutes. The lines are well marked and it is very easy to use. In the station, you can buy day tickets (for 1, 2, 3 or 4 days) that allow unlimited trips on the metro, buses, city trains, trams and funicular to Montjuic. The transport system generally is very good, with buses, the metro and the trams. The cost of travel is quite low. Much of Barcelona though is pedestrianised and very walkable.

* The Hop on Hop off bus is a good way to get your bearings, particularly if you are in the city for a short period of time. We did not use it on this trip, but have done in the past and it is very good. This bus actually makes it easy to get to the Parc Guell, Sagrada Familia, Gaudi houses and the waterfront. There are 3 different routes, 44 stops, audio commentary in different languages and you can board the bus anywhere on the route.

* Consider buying the Barcelona card. We did this and found it to be good value, especially if you are planning to visit a number of attractions and use the metro system. It combines unlimited rides on the metro, buses and trams, a free boat ride around the harbour and discounts on a lot of places including the Sagrada Familia and the Gaudi houses. You can buy 2, 3, 4 or 5 day passes.   Close

Barcelona is a great destination for a short break. It is the capital of Catalonia, a region with its own language, character and history. It is on the Mediterranean Sea and is quirky, cosmopolitan and a very cool place. The city is…Read More

Barcelona is a great destination for a short break. It is the capital of Catalonia, a region with its own language, character and history. It is on the Mediterranean Sea and is quirky, cosmopolitan and a very cool place. The city is full of life.
Barcelona is actually set on a plain which rises gently from the sea up to the wooded hills behind the city. It is one of the busiest ports in the Mediterranean and is Spain's most cosmopolitan city. The restaurants and bars are busy all year round and the seaside is packed in summer.
We just loved all the buildings in the city and the architecture is varied and fascinating. The old centre of Barcelona has one of the greatest concentrations of Gothic architecture in Europe. As well as this though, there are also some of the more bizarre buildings in the world - surreal and unusual, especially the Sagrada Familia church.
The architect Gaudi is everywhere in Barcelona - his houses and architectural creations, tiled mosaics in the shape of dragons and chimneys with faces are marvellous.
As well as these incredible buildings, there are lots of world class museums in the centre. There is also cutting edge contemporary architecture in the newer part of the city.
Barcelona also has sophisticated shops, lots of trendy restaurants and many sleek hotels.
The setting is wonderful - the wooded hills at the back, combined with lots of parks and sandy beaches which extend north from the port area. It is really an unusual city where you can combine wonderful architecture with a gorgeous seaside setting.
The city is also loud, vibrant, beautiful and bustling. We travelled there with our 8 year old son and found it to be a great place for a family holiday. There is a playful atmosphere in the city and our son soaked it all up from the moment we arrived. The climate is also good for children - mild and sunny, but also there are good beaches, lovely parks, a big amusement park and wonderful food to try.
When we explored Barcelona, we found that you really did have to pause and discover its charm in small details - the hidden courtyards of Barri Gotic are particularly special and the first glimpse of the Sagrada Familia.
There are 3 million inhabitants in this city. The climate in summer can be humid and the streets are extremely congested, busy and have lots of rush hour traffic jams. Despite all this however, it is easy to see why Barcelona is one of Europe's most popular tourist destinations. The architecture, museums and wealth of culture, combined with the ease of exploring and fun things to do, make it a wonderful city to visit.
We loved drinking wine and sangria in the lively tapas bars, eating the seafood and wonderful fish in Barceloneta and just soaking up the atmosphere of this vibrant and cosmopolitan city. We had a wonderful time!   Close