After a good night's sleep, it was time to depart Thousand Oaks and head north to Monterey. Ultimately, we would end our day's travels in the San Simeon area.As we left the Hampton Inn around 6:30am we witnessed a couple of what appeared to…Read More

After a good night's sleep, it was time to depart Thousand Oaks and head north to Monterey. Ultimately, we would end our day's travels in the San Simeon area.

As we left the Hampton Inn around 6:30am we witnessed a couple of what appeared to be Federal agents gearing up for some sort of police action. They had their government issued black SUV parked in a side lot located between the hotel and a shopping area, as they were putting on their bullet-proof vests. As much as I would have loved to stick around to see what was happening, we continued to make our way to Hwy 101.

The 101 became jammed with the morning rush hour around Ventura and on through to Santa Barbara. The ride along the Pacific Ocean was nice, especially at such a slow, snail's pace. I especially enjoyed the smell of the fresh sea air, even though it was a bit chilly to have the window down.

As we turned inland from Santa Barbara, we could see the smoke from the fire that had been burning since Memorial Day weekend. The "White Fire" as it had been called, was located in the Los Padres National Forest and burned for four days before being brought under control . . . but not after destroying nearly 2,000 acres and costing approximately $3M to contain.

Taking the San Marcos Pass over the Santa Barbara County mountains, we were delighted to lovely views and vistas overlooks in all directions. In spite of the smoke billowing from the wildfire, we could still see the Pacific Ocean in the distance. Along our route, we made a stop at the Cachuma Lake Recreation Area. The lake appeared on the Garmin to be huge, so we wanted to take a look around. Thankfully the park ranger at the entrance allowed us a 15 minute visitor's pass, saving us the $10 admittance fee.

The lake was huge, providing many recreational opportunities including fishing and camping. We also made good use of their nice, flushing toilets before departing the park. For more information on this Santa Barbara County park, check them out at: http://www.countyofsb.org/parks/parks05.aspx?id=13440 .

One of the more interesting features along our route were the "El Camino Real" road markers seen. (See photo attached to this story.) I had no idea what they represented, so once home I had to research them. (Thank you Wikipedia!) "El Camino Real" translates from Spanish to "The Royal Road" which connected 21 missions, four presidios and several pueblos. In 1892 a preservation effort was initiated and the bells were added to serve as highway markers. The first 450 bells were introduced in 1906.

Unfortunately, many of the original bells were stolen or damaged by vandalism. Approximately 80 have since been replaced by the State of California in order to preserve this State Historical Landmark that is also known as the California Mission Trail.

As we continued our drive, we traversed through several vineyards and wineries. As we made our way further north, the grape vines gave way to vegetable farms. We saw a lot of workers out picking strawberries, lettuce, kale and other crops we could not determine. Approaching the town of Salinas, we were sharing the highway with 18-wheelers hauling produce to the big produce processors and markets.

Known as "The Salad Bowl of America" it became clear why Salinas had earned such a nickname. There were rows and rows of haulers carrying vegetables. This is also the birthplace of John Steinbeck, author of "Of Mice and Men". Had we had more time, it would have been nice to tour the National Steinbeck Center or perhaps the Steinbeck Library.

Moving on from Salinas, we were soon approaching the seaside coastal city of Monterey. The city reminded me a lot of other beachfront towns and cities I was familiar with on the Atlantic Coast of the US. The views to the bay, as sailboats drifted leisurely across the water, were lovely. As we approached what I would describe as the "tourist area" the historical importance of the city became obvious along Cannery Row.

This was an industry and area that Steinbeck had made famous in his books. Fortunately, we were able to learn a little about the cannery industry during our visit to the Monterey Bay Aquarium . . . which was our final destination in Monterey.   Close

Since we live in an area inhabited by 18 million people, we have many places of interest to keep us entertained. Although we are close to Disneyland we did not go there or to any major theme park. Instead, we went one day to the…Read More

Since we live in an area inhabited by 18 million people, we have many places of interest to keep us entertained. Although we are close to Disneyland we did not go there or to any major theme park. Instead, we went one day to the Eastern Sierra where the highest mountain in the lower 48 states can be found. The Visitor Center in Lone Pine gives good information on the area. There are books and souvenirs available also.
The wind did not stop us. On we went to Manzanar, Lone Pine and the Alabama Hills.
The Mojave Desert was awesome as always. Seeing the sun set in the western skies made the day complete.
Other places we visited were a winery, Market Night in Redlands and Citrus State Historic Park in Riverside where we were doted upon by the staff and volunteers. We learned more than we would ever want to know about citrus. Another fascinating stop was the historic Mission Inn.
This is a functioning hotel that you can stay in if you want to enjoy all the luxuries. At Christmas time they have thousands of lights decorating the outside of the Inn.
Then we were off to Los Angeles. After a few mistakes finding our destinations, we managed to see Watts Towers, Little Tokyo and Olvera Street.
No visit here would be complete without a visit to a beach to catch the surf and sand.

Dana Point is a favorite of ours. Doheny State Beach is great for watching surfers.




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Our bike ride from Manhattan Beach had taken us around Marina del Rey and deposited us into the midst of the action on Venice Beach. Possibly LA’s best known beach area, I had expected to see all types of bizarre characters but in fact things…Read More

Our bike ride from Manhattan Beach had taken us around Marina del Rey and deposited us into the midst of the action on Venice Beach. Possibly LA’s best known beach area, I had expected to see all types of bizarre characters but in fact things seemed fairly tame. Perhaps the most striking sight was that of the medical marijuana shops. Bright green eye catching stalls with a couple of girls out front dressed not unlike cheerleaders.

The famed muscle beach body builders must have been taking a day off, as we didn’t see them. The skateboard park was busy though and had attracted a decent number of spectators.

We took our bikes off the bike paths and walked along the boardwalk, admiring the colourful mix of shops, fortune-tellers, souvenirs and artwork. To me, most was pretty bad. Even the majority of the clothing shops were pretty tacky, but the walkway certainly didn’t lack character. We took our bikes off the boardwalk and wheeled them into a long narrow courtyard with a cafe at the end. We stopped for a frozen yogurt and enjoyed being away from the crowds for a short while.

We then continued on towards Santa Monica. The Santa Monica pier was no less busy than Venice Beach. We were able to push our bikes onto the rough wooden boards of the pier and walk around the perimeter. The pier seems to have it all: restaurants, entertainers, a roller coaster, Ferris wheel, a trapeze school and an aquarium. It is even part of Route 66. We walked to the far end, where a row of anglers went about the serious business of casting lines out into the quiet swells of the Pacific. Their pursuit was a far cry from the noisy leisure pursuits of most people who visit the pier.

Back along the pier we observed an entertainer in puzzlement. He wore a shabby tracksuit with a gorilla mask and danced, not very well, to a string of old pop songs. He made us laugh if nothing else.

We passed the Bubba Gump Shrimp Company restaurant, apparently owned by the production company responsible for making ‘Forest Gump’ and continued towards the pier entrance. After over 100 years of operation, the pier shows no sign of losing its appeal.

We wanted to explore further but it was time to turn back. We cycled back along the winding Venice Beach path, competing with pedestrians and roller-bladers for space. The skate park and the boardwalk were still busy. It isn’t until you reach the edge of Marine del Rey that the crowds disappear and the quieter side of LA beach life returns.    Close

Most of the greatest cities on earth, have a decent if not extensive public transportation system. One which is easy to understand, simple to use and above all else, affordable. Visitors prefer to spend their hard earned cash on special experiences, fine dining and indulging…Read More

Most of the greatest cities on earth, have a decent if not extensive public transportation system. One which is easy to understand, simple to use and above all else, affordable. Visitors prefer to spend their hard earned cash on special experiences, fine dining and indulging on shopping sprees. Setting aside a large amount of money for transportation purposes, is never high on anyone's list when planning a perfect vacation or weekend trip.

Los Angeles, also known as the City of Angels, is a massive metropolitan area, and one of the greatest cities in the world. However, it's public transportation system is severely lacking. There isn't a proper subway system such as that in New York, nor a substantial public bus service. Most visitors who do not research the best ways to get around in Los Angeles, are taken off guard and find themselves shelling out unprecedented volumes of cash on taxis to take them everywhere they need to go.

With a little bit of homework, either by searching online or speaking to locals in advance, one will find out about the Big Blue Bus. This bus service, is the best and most far reaching of the three bus companies in Los Angeles. They have a considerable number of routes, leading to many areas of the city with lots of stops in between.

The Big Blue Bus which I'm sure you've already suspected by now, is of a bright blue colour. This is very helpful when standing at the bus stop, as it's possible to see it coming from quite a distance away. The bus stops are plentiful, and are located along the main highways. There is also a bus route which leads to the Los Angeles International Airport, offering a cheap alternative to hiring a taxi or using a crowded airport shuttle bus.

I used the Big Blue Bus to take me to Santa Monica Pier from the bus stop closest to my airport hotel, La Quinta Inn & Suites. I stood at the bus stop for roughly seven minutes, waiting for the bus to show up. Considering the size of the city, a mere seven minutes wait is a true testament to the admirable frequency of the service. There is a sign at the bus stop which indicates what number bus goes to which destination, and lucky for me, the first bus which approached was the bus going to Santa Monica.

I read in advance that you should have dollar bills and coins in your hand when boarding the bus. The machines which takes the payment does not give back change, so if you put in a $20 for a $2 fare, you're $18 is as good as dead. After getting on the bus, I told the driver that I wanted to get off at Santa Monica Pier, and he told me to put $1 in the machine.

Santa Monica Pier is a considerable distance away from the airport region, so the $1 fare was ridiculously cheap! Unfortunately, the bus was already quite crowded, so I had to stand and hold onto the railing for the duration of the ride (about 15-20 minutes). I didn't mind, as experiences like this only serve to make my trip memorable.

An automated voice would come over the intercom, and a flashing sign would appear on the bus monitor at the front to alert passengers of the upcoming stop. The combination of visual and audible messages is thoughtful in my opinion, as some passengers may not hear, and others may not be able to see the bus monitor given their seating position.

Another positive factor about the Big Blue Bus, is the fact that it's handicap friendly. There are several features put into place for people with disabilites, and I actually witnessed a procedure in action. There was a lady in a wheel chair onboard, and when her stop came about, the driver pulled a lever, and a ramp was pulled out from beneath the bus door, allowing her to roll out onto the sidewalk with ease. Once again, this was very thoughtful of the bus company.

Soon it was my stop, and I pulled the cord to announce my departure. The bus pulled over and I thanked the driver before hopping off. I made it all the way to Santa Monica Pier, and the trip only put me out of one dollar. The Big Blue Bus saved me a lot of money during my layover in Los Angeles, and the service provided is of a higher quality than most public transportation services in a large city. I easily recommend.   Close

Los AngelesWe didn’t become millionaires in Las Vegas, so we had to think of something else ... Los Angeles! I will only reveal one thing already: we have not been 'discovered'. We are all very competitive people: Spiderman, Batman, Joker, Dora, Charlie Chaplin and even…Read More

Los Angeles

We didn’t become millionaires in Las Vegas, so we had to think of something else ... Los Angeles! I will only reveal one thing already: we have not been 'discovered'. We are all very competitive people: Spiderman, Batman, Joker, Dora, Charlie Chaplin and even a Transformer! Well, we could not beat that :-)

If we look back to LA we think also of the many roads and massive traffic congestion. There's more, the people who live here are not tolerant, giving driving an adventure in itself. Except for lots of cars and people, we see the city where the big stars live and many wanna-be stars." But let's start at the beginning ...

We could get our car in Las Vegas and then driving to Los Angeles. Yes, you read that right: a car ... Anyway, once on the road, and accustomed to the car it was a nice ride. We drove through the desert and even had lunch in the desert!

Los Angeles has many fun (and delicious!) Eateries, bars, etc. That's also very exciting because you could suddenly just be alongside Tom Cruise or Mickey Mouse :-) We remember the most ancient "brothel", where we have been enjoying the wonderful road of Sunset Boulevard! What we felt a little strange was that there was constant police surveillance...

The Hollywood letters are in many places in Los Angeles. Despite this, it is not easy to simply go here to drive to. And we speak from experience! After many roads, questions about mountains and back, we've finally seen up close!

The most bizarre place in Los Angeles is the Avenue of Stars. This is known for the stars on the ground with the names of the artists (including figures like Mickey Mouse!?). What this bizarre place, is that very many people walking around dressed as Batman and a Transformer, who hope to be discovered here. Why do not they invent something original? We have indeed had the feeling that many of these people are there 'just' want to earn money, for a photo they want one U.S. dollar tip!

If you're in Los Angeles you don’t want to skip Beverly Hills or Bel-Air. The big stars live here. We have seen the home of Diana Ross and Julie Andrews. Unfortunately we have not spotted any big stars, but we did see the paperazzi who were chasing the stars :-)

And then a final word about Los Angeles: LA is not our city. It is far too busy and too big. The city is over 800 km of highways, let alone the ordinary four-lane roads. Without a car you're lost here and with cars you are always stuck in traffic. It was nice to get some highlights of LA had seen, but two days was long enough.
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MalibuBefore this pristine, 21-mile stretch of shoreline became the ‘Land of Ferraris’, it was home to the Chumash tribe, which called the area "Hu-maliwo’ (which transformed into Malibu). Then, Spanish explorer, Juan Cabrillo, discovered the area, and the land was forever changed. The…Read More

Malibu

Before this pristine, 21-mile stretch of shoreline became the ‘Land of Ferraris’, it was home to the Chumash tribe, which called the area "Hu-maliwo’ (which transformed into Malibu). Then, Spanish explorer, Juan Cabrillo, discovered the area, and the land was forever changed. The Spanish returned to build the famous Californian mission system, up and down the coast. In the meantime, the Rindge family settled in the central area of Malibu, where current day Topanga Canyon connects with Malibu.

The Rindge family was a reclusive clan that wanted to keep the public out. Southern Pacific challenged the family in court to allow railroad access, in an early example of eminent domain. Next, the Pacific Coast Highway demanded access rights and the family was forced to divide and sell the land. (Though their homestead, now known as the Adamson House, can be found in the Malibu Creek State Park).

The area has become a playground to the stars, and ‘The Colony’ (along Malibu Road) is a ‘Who’s Who’ of Hollywood Royalty. (Don’t even think about visiting. It is completely gated.) These multi-million dollar homes are wedged tightly together for a coastline view known as ‘the Queen’s Necklace’ -- or Santa Monica to Rancho Palos Verde.

But, you can still visit Malibu and its abundance of great beaches: Topanga State Beach, Malibu Lagoon State Beach, Malibu Surfrider, Dan Blocker Beach, Big Dume State Beach, Point Dume State Beach, Westward Beach, Zuma Beach, La Piedra Beach, Nicholas Canyon Beach, El Pescador and El Matador Beaches.

Note: There has been an on-going battle of private Malibu owners versus public beach-goers for decades. Translation: Kazillionaires don’t want your grimy flip flops anywhere near their home. But, after many lawsuits, the California Coastal Commission intervened: "the state of California owns... the land seaward... of what is called the mean high tide line." Basically, as long as your toes -- or grimy flip flops -- are wet, the private owners can do nothing to you. But watch out, the private owners have now built giant garages, side-by-side, in an attempt to keep the hoi polloi out! The lawsuits continue.

Highlight
Don’t want to fight over beach access?
The Getty Villa
www.getty.edu
17985 Pacific Coast Highway
Pacific Palisades

Oil baron, J. Paul Getty opened an art gallery next to his home (located at the back of the property), which he filled to capacity in no time, so he built a second, and larger, gallery on the same property. He bequeathed the future museum to the city in 1974, and its focus was on the "ancient" arts. There is also a lovely garden area, and views of the Pacific. Best of all, the Getty Villa is free (advance ticket reservation required). However parking is $15.

**This is not to be confused with the Getty Museum, which is located at 1200 Getty Drive in L.A. This second museum is also free and parking is cheaper.**

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The Future of L.A.: Water and Fire

Who knew that the city best known for its famous faces and trend setting, had such a history. But what does the future hold for L.A.? How will the city handle the problems of water and fire, as it continues to expand. (Current population over 9.8 million in the county).

When Frederick Eaton was elected mayor in 1898, he created the LA Department of Water and Power, which was headed by his friend, William Mulholland. The population at that time was just over 100,000, but water was becoming scarce. (Los Angeles is similar to the Southern Mediterranean with 320 days of sunshine, and only 32 days of precipitation. Rain rarely falls between February and November. And, when it does rain, it tops out at roughly three inches of water.) LA was drying up, wilting in its endless sun.

The solution was simple. Mulholland would just go up to Owen County. This was an agricultural area, still very remote. In fact the Desert Land Act of 1877 actually offered land to people (up to 640 acres) simply to move there. L.A. would just take the run-off from the Sierra Nevada mountains, and water from Owens Lake. A large gravity-fed aqueduct was proposed.

By 1913, the aqueduct (estimated to sustain a population of three million) was complete, all 233 miles of it. So the "Switzerland of California" was turned into a desert - Owens Lake was completely empty by 1924. That was when a second aquaduct was built. By 1941 L.A. was draining Mono Lake (chock full of very rare shrimp and a key refueling point for many migrating birds). Thankfully, by 1977 a report on the effects of drainage was published by a biologist, and a committee to protect the lake was formed two years later. The Committee (and partner, the National Audubon Society) sued the LADWP, and a decade of haggling ensued. Eventually, in 1994, the city had to release enough water into the lake to raise it 20 feet (though still under the 1941 levels).

Today, Los Angeles, gets its water from groundwater (and we’ve already discussed how much that is), the Colorado River, and "other major water sources" (whatever that means.) And removing this groundwater has lowered the water table even more, effectively turning L.A. into a desert. End result: more and more fires.

Highlight (sort of)

At the corner of Los Feliz Blvd. and Riverside Drive (at the entrance of Griffith Park) lies the "Kool Aid" Fountain. On August 1st, 1940, the city dedicated a fountain to William Mulholland (five years after his death). Atop a 90 foot diameter reflecting pool, rests a pedestal which shoots up water at varying distances and intervals. Changing lights add to the spectacle, and helped it earns its nickname. (Meanwhile, Owens lake, once 50 foot deep, and twelve miles long, is a salt flat with the occasional briny soup after long rains).   Close

Echo ParkIn a hilly area, then untouched, and known as Edendale, Thomas Kelly -- a former carriage maker -- developed the ‘Montana Tract’, complete with a lake in the center. The grassy hills proved the perfect location to shoot very early Westerns, starring Tom…Read More

Echo Park

In a hilly area, then untouched, and known as Edendale, Thomas Kelly -- a former carriage maker -- developed the ‘Montana Tract’, complete with a lake in the center. The grassy hills proved the perfect location to shoot very early Westerns, starring Tom Mix, so the studios began settling into the area -- long before Hollywood was developed and ‘talkies’ were filmed.

Tom Mix, and another early screen actress, Gloria Swanson, and many other performers began buying homes in the developing area. This marked the birth of L.A.’s first Bohemian quarter. Prior to WWI, it earned the nickname "Red Hill," due to the large number of political radicals living here, intermixed with writers and artists. Post WWII, as the white population fled for newer surburbs, Latinos and working-class Chinese moved into the area. And since the early 2000s a large population of gays and lesbians have purchased homes, making it one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the nation.

Highlight

In the 1910s, several early movie studios were located on Allesandro Avenue (now Glendale Blvd.), including Selig Polyscope Company and Pathe West Coast Film Studio. The most famous studio was Max Sennett Studios/Keystone Pictures (1712 Glendale Blvd., now part of a warehouse facility).

Max Sennett was responsible for launching the careers of Charlie Chaplin, Fatty Arbuckle, Gloria Swanson, Bing Crosby, Mabel Normand, the Keystone Cops, W.C. Fields, and more. Both Max and his studio developed a very unique and enduring tradition, the old pie-in-the-face schtick. In the 1913 movie ‘A Noise from the Deep’, Mabel Normand plastered Fatty Arbuckle with a whipped cream-topped pie. And, comedies have been using the gag ever since.

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Burbank

The land that is now Burbank started as two seperate land tracts (Rancho San Rafael and Rancho Providencia) under the Spanish government. In 1867, Dr. David Burbank, a dentist, purchased 4,600 acres from each Rancho to begin growing wheat. He then focused on creating a small village and, in 1893, a stage for performers - Burbank Theatre (which became more tacky with time, moving from burlesque to showing X-rated films, before it was demolished in 1973.)

The railroad began running through Burbank in 1874, and a depot was built in 1887. Developers gobbled up all available land in the area, including Dr. Burbank’s for a reported $250,000. Burbank officially became a city in 1911 (population 500), after the first L.A. trolley rolled into the area.

The town grew steadily, and over the next 20 years, a bank, newspaper (Burbank Review), high school and main street were established. By 1927, the city had 125 miles of paved roads. Within a few years major corporations began moving into the area, including, Lockheed, Andrew Jergens, and Libby Canning. The population exploded to more than 16,000.

One of the first permanent studios to move into the area was First National in 1917. It had begun as a merger of 26 "first run" cinema chains. They were brought together under Thomas L. Tally with the idea of showing, distributing, and eventually, producing their own films. In 1918 the company signed million-dollar deals with both Mary Pickford and Charlie Chaplin (the first deals of this magnitude). This captured rival Paramount’s attention, and a hostile take-over was attempted, but it was Warner Brothers who swooped in to buy the majority interest in 1928.

Major movie studios now located in Burbank:
Warner Brothers at 4000 Warner Blvd. and Walt Disney Studios at 500 S. Buena Vista St. (Universal is also located in ‘the valley’ in Universal City. Of the majors, only Paramount remains in Hollywood).

Highlight (tired of Hollywood yet?)
Batcade
www.batcade.com
220 N. Victory Blvd., Burbank

The number of batting cages in L.A. is dwindling fast, and this is the perfect place to wear off some steam -- especially if your film project just got the axe by the neighboring film studios (see above). There are cages for fast and slow pitch softball and also for baseball. All cages are covered, and they are open late - 10:00 p.m. They also have a small snack bar, vending machines, and an arcade. Rates are cheap at 25 pitches for $3.

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Venice

This shoreline section of Los Angeles got its start as a beach resort town in 1905, with the help of tobacco tycoon, Abbot Kinney. (The resort itself was called Ocean Park). By 1910, the population had climbed to roughly 3,100 people, but it attracted another 50,000 as tourists. There were plenty of leisure activities available: an aquarium, and amusement parks spread over three piers. By 1925, as a result of the heavy day-use, the water, sewer and road systems were in bad shape, and more expansion was needed. The last of these piers was dismantled in the 1950s.

The beach town voted to be annexed by the city of Los Angeles. Before L.A. could do much to improve the area, oil was discovered south of Washington Street and by 1931 there were 450 oil wells dotting the area (which remained in operation until the 1970s). The result was the "Slum by the Sea".

Then, the Beat Generation of the 1950s discovered cheap rent, and writers, artists and musicians flocked to the area. These counter cultural rebels took over the cafes, especially along the boarwalk, and Venice became fashionable again. (By the way, the cheap rent is long, long gone).

Highlight

Everyone knows about the Venice Beach Boardwalk (if not, check out www.venicebeach.com). But the Venice canals should not be overlooked. They provide the perfect backdrop for a quiet afternoon stroll.

The area is now upscale, remodeled and a scene right out of a postcard. The canals were the brain child of Abbot Kinney, and building began in 1904. Sixteen miles of canals were built within the year. By 1929, cars were replacing boats and many of the canals were covered over. In 1994, Los Angeles renovated the remaining six canals for $6 million.

The canals are situated south of Venice Blvd., between Carroll and Court Streets, Strongs Drive and Eastern Court. The Main Canal runs south of Venice Blvd, along Strongs Drive, and into Ballona Lagoon.

The homes along the canals vary in style, from the original bungalows (500 square feet) of the early 1900s to contemporary three-stories (3,000 square feet). The walkways are kept immaculate, each resident adding their own garden, sculptures and styles to the communal area next to their home. (No bicycling or skating allowed on the walkways, and only non-motor watercraft allowed in the canals themselves).    Close

Los Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city -- Dorothy ParkerOlvera Street AreaIn 1781, eleven families settled the area that is now known as Los Angeles. They based their settlement (El Pueblo de Nuesta Senora Reina de Los Angeles) close to the…Read More

Los Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city -- Dorothy Parker

Olvera Street Area

In 1781, eleven families settled the area that is now known as Los Angeles. They based their settlement (El Pueblo de Nuesta Senora Reina de Los Angeles) close to the river, southeast of Olvera Street. Due to flooding this settlement moved to higher ground around 1800, when a plaza was established, surrounded by adobe buildings and, beyond that, agricultural fields and cattle ranches.

This new village remained under Spanish control until 1821 when Mexico declared its independence. In 1877 the long street by the plaza became known as Olvera Street, after a prominent early judge. In the 1880s the center of town shifted -- in part due to the arrival of a large number of European settlers -- and the area fell into disuse. The population was now based around as the center of town shifted to (present-day) Temple and Main Streets. The population in 1880 was 11,000, which exploded to 100,000 by 1896.

Olvera Street Today

The area has been restored, and the Spanish influence is celebrated - it’s a great place to commemorate Cinco de Mayo. In the old Plaza, around the bandstand, Mariachi bands fill the air with triumphant music and vendors offer fresh fruit sprinkled with chili powder. Down Olvera Street itself, a multitude of shops sell handmade Mexican crafts, and cafes offer tasty tamales and cold, creamy horchata.

Highlight

The Plaza Fire House
126 Plaza Street

The Plaza Fire Station was built in 1884, though there had been a volunteer system in place since 1871. This had been known as the Volunteer 38, which was made up of 38 volunteers, three horses and a cart. The building was designed by William Boring, who was a native of Illinois, where it was common to house horses and equipment together due to the colder climate. (Anyone who has visited L.A. in August pities those poor horses). The total cost of the building: $4,665.

These early firefighters were paid only when they actually put out a fire. Several buildings turned to ashes, due to fights about jurisdiction and who was responsible for paying the men. An official fire department was created in 1885, and the firefighters moved out of the firehouse in 1892 because the city forgot to actually purchase the property! But, in 1953 the firehouse was restored and turned into a museum.

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Downtown

In 1847 the United States took control of the area from the Mexicans with the signing of the Treaty of Cahuenga. Two years later the railroads arrived and, in 1892, oil was discovered in the area. Over the next 30 years the Los Angeles area produced 25% of the world’s crude oil.

By 1920 the rail system connected four counties, and rivaled New York’s system in size. It was during this era -- when the population was at just over half a million people, and L.A. was the 10th largest city -- that the downtown saw a building explosion. It grew big enough to be divided into districts: Financial, Arts, Fashion, Jewelry, Toy, Warehouse, and etc.

As in many cities, after WWII the soldiers returned home to marry, start the Baby Boom and move into the suburbs.

Downtown Today

Since 1955, several attempts have been made to revitalize the downtown area. Many of the vacant buildings have been developed into trendy lofts. In 1999, the Staples Center opened and became the home of the Lakers and Clippers, as well as the Kings and Sparks.

The city still has a long way to go. Skid Row -- defined as 3rd to 7th streets, and Los Angeles to Alameda streets -- contains the largest population of homeless persons in the U.S., estimated beween 7,000-8,000.

Highlight

If you aren’t a movie star or married to a Rockefeller, you will savor the bargain shopping of the "Fashion District." Santee Alley is a simple back alley, downtown (between Maple and Santee streets). You can expect counterfeit purses and illegally downloaded copies of DVDs, CDs, faux designer watches and perfumes. But, you cannot beat the prices of the 150 vendors.

Let’s start with parking — it rarely goes over $5 in a lot. Within the nearby food court, $3 gets you a great lunch. And, the last time we visited we got luggage for $20. (Which we still have). With these kind of prices, no wonder the place is always packed!

Hint: Go early. Most stores begin opening at 9:00 AM. Take cash. Some vendors don’t accept credit cards. For more information: www.thesanteealley.com

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Chinatown

The history -- and locations -- of Chinatown are many and varied.

Old Chinatown
The first Chinese recorded in the area arrived in 1852. By 1857, they had established a settlement, that the locals had started calling "Chinatown" by 1870. At this time there were roughly 200 Chinese centered around Calle de Los Negros - Street of the Dark Hued Ones - which was located close to the El Pueblo Plaza (see Olvera Street). Between 1890 and 1910 the population grew to 3,000, and the area expanded to fifteen streets or alleys, and an estimated 200 buildings. Chinatown had a Chinese Opera, its own newspaper, and three temples.

However, Chinatown’s success was limited by the Exclusion Act, signed into law on 1882 by President Chester A. Arthur. The Act suspended Chinese immigration, and placed restrictions on current Chinese immigrants - they couldn’t own property. The Chinese had initially come as laborers during the Gold Rush era. At the time of the signing of the Exclusion Act, they were the largest minority in California.

Anti-Chinese sentiment had grown for over a decade prior to the Exclusion Act. In 1871 a caucasin bystander had been shot, when two Chinese gangs began a shoot-out over a woman. Over 500 caucasians surged through Chinatown, robbing and killing 18 Chinese immigrants in retaliation. It would become known as the ‘Massacre of 1871’.

In the 1930s Chinatown was moved to make room for Union Station, the train terminal, that was built at 800 North Alameda Street.

New Chinatown
The new area was bordered by Olvera Street and Dodger Stadium. In order to promote the area as a bonafide attraction, the Central Plaza was developed. Hollywood added exotic touches Chinatown, thanks to director Cecil B. DeMille who wanted the area to pass for Shanghai, to save on filming costs.

Highlight

The fine to funky art galleries along Chung King Road: Mary Goldman Gallery (932), China Art Objects (933), Black Dragon Society (961-971), The Happy Lion (963) and Peres Projects (969).   Close

As I started towards retirement, I decided to upgrade my little point-n-shoot Kodak. After reading loads of reviews I settled on a Nikon D700. It arrived in the mail last November, and I instantly set off to learn to photograph. I quickly…Read More

As I started towards retirement, I decided to upgrade my little point-n-shoot Kodak. After reading loads of reviews I settled on a Nikon D700. It arrived in the mail last November, and I instantly set off to learn to photograph. I quickly discovered a passion for flowers -- and, as a bonus, they don’t move. This lead us on a quest to find great gardens.

Here our my top garden picks:

Descanso Gardens
www.descansogardens.org
1418 Descanso Drive
La Canada Flintridge
Intersection of the 210 and 2 freeways
$8 admission. Gift shop and cafe available. A tram runs daily around the gardens.

The property originally belong to E. Manchester Boddy, owner of the L.A. Daily News, and the site was used as a commercial camellia garden. The property was donated to L.A. County in 1953, though the garden has maintained a camellia section. Other garden sections include an Iris and Lilac Garden, along with a Japanese Garden (complete with tea house) and California Garden, which has native plants on 8-acres.

The Huntington
www.huntington.org
1151 Oxford Road
San Marino
$15 (weekday) admission. Parking, gift shop and cafe available.

Though the Huntington offers a library and art collections, we are focusing on the gardens.

The gardens are set on 120 acres, and divided into 12 themed sections. In 1903 Henry Huntington purchased the San Marino Ranch with the idea of changing it into a botanic garden filled with rare flowers. With the help of his property manager, William Hertrich, they landscaped 120 of the 600 (original) acres with over 12,000 species of flowers. The garden is most noted for its collection of Cycads, (America’s largest). The largest collection of desert plants in the world is also found here. The Huntingdon is one of the few gardens able to grow the extremely rare "corpse flower" (the largest individual flower on the planet, weighing up to 24 lbs.)

Sidenote: The garden doubled as a filming location for ‘National Treasure: Book of Secrets’. It was the White House Rose Garden.


Lake Shrine Temple
www.lakeshrine.org
17190 Sunset Blvd.
Pacific Palisades
Fee free. Restrooms and parking available.

Lake Shrine Temple was founded by Paramahansa Yogananda in 1950, but is owned by the Self-Realization Fellowship. It has mediation areas devoted to Christians, Muslims, Buddhists, Hebrews and Hindus. (They offer classes and a book room also). Though it is a designated as a spiritual retreat, the gardens are lovely: filled with waterfalls, a windmill, flora of many varieties, all centered around a natural spring-fed pond.

The large white temple contains a thousand-year-old stone sarcophagus, which holds a brass and silver coffer. Part of Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes are inside.



South Coast Botanic Garden
www.southcoastbotanicgarden.org
26300 Crenshaw Blvd.
Palos Verde Peninsula
$8 admission. Parking and facilities available.

The South Coast Botanic Garden is the smallest of the gardens at 87 acres, but rich in diversity, with 150,000 plants from over 2,000 different species. They specialize in South American and African plants, which attract over 300 types of birds. The highlights are the charming children’s area and the garden of the senses.

The garden is a far cry from its beginnings. It was an open pit mine from 1929 to 1956, before becoming a landfill. Thankfully, the area was rescued by the county in 1961.    Close

It was very early on a Saturday morning when I got the phone call, and, frankly, Dad didn’t care about the three hour time difference. It was the dog. The puppy was driving him crazy. I had to come get the little…Read More

It was very early on a Saturday morning when I got the phone call, and, frankly, Dad didn’t care about the three hour time difference. It was the dog. The puppy was driving him crazy. I had to come get the little Westie. We had planned to visit Ohio soon. And, my better half and I were discussing getting a second dog anyway.

Our first dog, Bambi, was, well, divalicious. She hated men, children and life. She was afraid of the wind, neighbors, other dogs and tulips. All she did was lounge in bed, or spend the day basking in the sun that came through the living room sliding door. We thought a second dog would bring her out of her shell.

The little Westie had a sweet face, so we drugged her, loaded her into a doggie crate and took her back to L.A. Well, in Dallas, during the plane change, the drugs wore off and the luggage started barking and bouncing, but we managed to get her home.

Within two weeks we thought we had made a huge, huge mistake, and we demanded Valium from the doctor -- both human and canine. Not knowing how to control a dog who bounced off the walls, we tried a dog trainer, and a second dog trainer, before we realized she simply needed to be worn out.

I discovered an amazing beach that would solve our problems. The County of Los Angeles doesn’t allow dogs on beaches, but God Bless Orange County. Huntington Beach has an off-leash Dog Beach. They have a complete mile of Pooch Paradise, complete with parking lots (metered), Port-o-Potties, a walking path and baggies available for "accidents". During the weekend look for the tent where you can make a donation to this great beach -- they also have a well-stocked water bowl.

Dog Beach is located on the PCH (Pacific Coast Highway) in Huntington Beach between 21st and Seapoint Streets. For more information: www.dogbeach.org

It was here that we were able to finally wear out our new pup. And, we discovered that she loves to run on sand, thus we named her Maui. We have now had Maui for over two years. She has become the dog of our dreams, which was fortunate because Bambi never did come out of her shell -- no matter how much her sister coaxed her to play.

Hint: After playing in the surf, you can head over to:

The Park Bench Cafe
11732 Goldenwest Street, Huntington Beach
www.parkbenchcafe.com

They are open (seasonally) for breakfast and lunch. There’s plenty of outdoor seating -- although there is usually a wait on weekends -- and parking. They serve standard fare of burgers, sandwiches, snacks and salads, along with omelettes and breakfast burritos.

Their specialty? The doggie menu, which offers up ‘Hot Diggity Dog’ (hot dog), ‘Bow Wow Wow’ (chicken filet), and much more. Ask for the doggie ice cream.

If there’s a wait you can always walk your dog around the connected park.   Close