Originating on the Italian-French border, exactly where the narrow steep-sided vales that crisscross the mighty northwest Alps merge, the River Po is Italy’s longest and most exploited waterway. Near the medieval town of Saluzzo in the Po valley, the river changes course; it then flows…Read More

Originating on the Italian-French border, exactly where the narrow steep-sided vales that crisscross the mighty northwest Alps merge, the River Po is Italy’s longest and most exploited waterway. Near the medieval town of Saluzzo in the Po valley, the river changes course; it then flows northwards for thirty-five miles towards Torino. North of here, the river veers east and resumes its eastbound course for more than three-hundred-fifty miles towards the Adriatic Sea. En route, it flows through the outskirts of Piacenza, Cremona, Mantua and Ferrara, draining the surplus rainwater of these cities and channelling it into the sea. The Po does not flow through Milano but a series of man-made canals direct the excess rainwater from Milano to the river, thus augmenting excessively the volume of water the river is required to take in. In the neighbourhood of Venezia, the river branches out into several canals that unfold into the Po Delta, an extensive area of marshland, flooded lakes and fabulous landscape.

The five-mile section of the Po that traverses Torino is for the most part wide, deep and clean enough to render the water clear. However, samples of water tested for invisible contamination indicate that the river is polluted with industrial chemicals and oil spills and so is unsuitable for swimming. For this reason, all forms of water sports are in utter short supply or non-existent and with the exception of boating, no other activities are evident on the river. Taking the regular ferry from the quay under Ponte Umberto for a one-hour trip along the river is definitely not influenced by pollution and so highly recommended, particularly for those whose time in the city is limited to one or two days. The excursion with a recorded commentary in Italian (in English by appointment and at specified times only) takes in the sightseeing attractions on both banks and covers the stretch between Ponte Vittorio Emanuele and Ponte Balbis, the total distance of the one-way journey being two-and-a-half miles.

Facing the ‘centro storico’, the left bank of the river from Ponte Vittorio Emanuele to Ponte Umberto is a breathing space ideal for whiling the time in leisurely pursuits. Slipping away from the lively activities on Piazza Vittorio Veneto nearby is no mean feat but for a change of scene, it is wise to traverse the road and take the steps down from the edge of Ponte Vittorio Emanuele to the river promenade. Well below street level, the promenade, unlike the square is serene and placid, its atmosphere of tranquillity enhanced by the undisturbed water of the river and the sober grace of scenic greenery on the right bank. Strolling along the promenade between the bridges in moonlight is the pursuit of romantics. It is here along this sequestered walkway that amorous Torinesi couples hang around in quiet away from the noisy activity of city life. Showing up here on a Sunday afternoon, one finds however an entirely contrasting scene. Still quiet by the standards of an exuberant city life, the area is dominated by picnicking families, children playing, adults reading and lots of skateboarders.

A walk along the proper left-bank promenade starts right in front of Piazza Vittorio Veneto under the Vittorio Emanuele Bridge and ends under the picturesque Umberto Bridge, a mighty structure embellished with a pair of allegorical bronze casts on each side. Climbing the steps or the slipway incline from the river promenade brings one right in front of a monumental arch dedicated to artillery. Known as the ‘Arco Monumentale all’Arma di Artiglieria’, it is a mild attempt at constructing a miniature Marble Arch at the junction of two big thoroughfares: Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Corso Cairoli. Graceful and overspread with bas-reliefs of war memorabilia but far from grand, the Artillery Memorial is however an important signpost as it marks the northern edge of what is Torino’s largest and most frequented parkland. Nearby is the gigantic statue of Garibaldi (the grand reformist and cofounder of the mid-nineteenth-century Risorgimento movement) watching over as if to guarantee that Italy will remain politically ‘young’ forever.

Torino’s sole parkland is composed of an elongated zone of greenery bounded from the east by the subsequent extension of the left bank of the Po and from the west by busy Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, a major road that connects the southern suburbs with the centre. The park, referred to as Parco del Valentino is nowhere wider than half-a-mile but lengthwise, it stretches out from Ponte Umberto to Ponte Principessa Isabella, a distance of almost two miles. Being so extensive, one needs a lot of time, stamina and dedication to go around the entire park and sightsee all its major attractions. For this reason, it is advisable for short-stay visitors to take the park’s sightseeing train that strays along the main routes and takes in most of the points of interest.

Parco del Valentino is an evening mecca for Torinesi who flock here to picnic on the grass or embark on an open-air activity of their choice. Be it jogging, cycling or rollerblading, be it zumba or capoeira, each sporting activity is encouraged through the use of facilities appropriately set up in the park for practice. Every Sunday afternoon, the park is literally invaded by thousands of local teenagers who come here to meet friends and spend hours of entertainment together. Organized leisure activities like live band music, pop concerts and disco dancing are not uncommon, adding to the atmosphere of amusement and delight. Parco del Valentino does not sleep either. Right on the water’s edge, the former rowing and regatta clubs have all been transformed into moneymaking nightclubs, reputedly the most noisy, smoky and ‘underground’ in the entire Torino area. How can life in the park ever sleep if the air remains thick with rowdiness until the wee hours of the morning?

To enjoy the true natural beauty the park is supposedly intended for, consider coming here on a weekday in the morning when the number of visitors wandering around is limited to tourists and school children. Starting from the entranceway near Ponte Umberto, make your way along one of the tree-sheltered winding pathways to the extensive Botanical Gardens. Comprising a rock garden with exotic cacti, a colourful rose garden with lots of quirky specimens, a play area for children and several canals and ponds overflowing with splashing water, it is unquestionably a spot where to wind down after the bustle of the city centre. Bordering the Botanical Gardens is Castello Valentino, a grand French-style horseshoe-shaped palace that is as grandiose as it looks. Its flamboyant façade lined with rows of ornate windows and dotted with monoliths of Savoy dukes matches for style its elegant interior, crammed as it is with frescoes and lots of intricate stucco work. Currently housing the university’s faculty of architecture, the interior can be visited by appointment only in the absence of lectures.

A good walk south along Viale Virgilio leads to the Borgo Mediovale, a medieval Piemontese village that comes complete with a chapel, a number of artisans workshops, a quarter for aristocrats and a Gothic castle crammed with period furniture. Everything looks and feels authentic enough as to render unbelievable the fact that the village is a fake late-nineteenth-century construction. In spite of its deceptive appearance, it is nonetheless an outstanding example of its kind and should on no account be missed.

Off the Borgo Mediovale, a short stroll south is the ‘Fontana dei dodici mesi’, a stepped marble fountain of gigantic proportions girdled with twelve allegorical statues, one for each month of the year. Nearby is the graceful Ponte Principessa Isabella that marks off the termination of the park.

The right bank of the Po, reachable via one of the bridges is bordered by a narrow belt of greenery that stretches from Ponte Vittorio Emanuele to Ponte Principessa Isabella. But the most inspiring section lies exactly south of Ponte Vittorio Emanuele. As one crosses this chaotic overpass to the right bank, one comes face to face with what is perhaps Torino’s most unusual place of worship. Called the Church of the Mother of God, it is a circular sanctuary that gets its light from a skylight placed conveniently at the apex of the dome. No artificial lighting is therefore necessary to view its interior. More interesting than the church is the panoramic view one can enjoy from the church parvis.

Only steps away is Via Gaetano Giardino, a steep tree-shaded incline that brings one on a hilly outcrop called Monte dei Capuccini. Arduous and exhausting, the walk pays off with a gem of a church crowning the top of the hill. Glimmering with gilded ornamentation, the church, though small contains enough paintings and works of art to keep one occupied for at least an hour. From the terrace outside the church, the splendid view over the city and the banks of the Po is unequivocally the best in Torino.   Close

Dividing Torino’s ‘centro storico’ neatly into two unequal zones and taking in midway Piazza San Carlo, Via Roma runs straight from Piazza Carlo Felice to Piazza Castello. While Piazza Carlo Felice is merely a shortcut for pedestrians who trek from the transport hub of Porta…Read More

Dividing Torino’s ‘centro storico’ neatly into two unequal zones and taking in midway Piazza San Carlo, Via Roma runs straight from Piazza Carlo Felice to Piazza Castello. While Piazza Carlo Felice is merely a shortcut for pedestrians who trek from the transport hub of Porta Nuova to the centre, the same cannot be said of the other two squares which are unquestionably more typical of grand Italian piazzas. Piazza Castello is the exposed heart of the city, exquisite, stately and beautiful. Its grandeur enhanced by the sober grace of the Palazzo Reale and the monumental poise of Palazzo Madama demands time to digest; much more time if one wishes to become familiar with what’s under wraps inside. Piazza San Carlo with its score of historical cafes has few sightseeing attractions but Torinesi use this vast space as a public courtyard for day-to-day discussion. Every evening, the outdoor seating under the porticoes turns into one big conversation ground for the well-heeled; the open-air public benches are no less subordinate grounds for discussion but here the space is generally grabbed by groups of pensioners and seniors. Joining in the discussion, even if you’re a foreigner is accepted with pleasure but… most discussions often go overboard and then the speaking language changes from Italian to an adulterated Piemontese dialect which only the locals can understand.

West of Via Roma is the network of narrow intersecting streets that form the backbone of medieval Torino. Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, broader than the lot and entirely pedestrianized is a lovely half-mile-long shopping promenade where the young generation of Torinesi parade around to get the hang of what’s happening in the world of fashion. Parallel to Via Garibaldi is Via Barbaroux, a long alleyway full of character where the main features of attraction are the tempting displays of antiques: manuscripts, fine ceramics, original prints and paintings, religious items, furniture and all kinds of old knickknacks. Crossing Via Barbaroux at right angles are the pedestrianized aisles of Via San Tommaso and Via dei Mercanti, two intriguing passageways that embrace more antiquarians and lots of small squeezed-in shops that specialize in local products. Be it a box of chocolate pralines or a miscellany of tiny pastries, be it a savoury pie or a cream tart, each incorporates to an extent a touch and a taste of Torino. To manifest the made-in-Torino label, specialized shops dub their items with pseudonyms of Torino attractions. Torta Sabauda, Citronelli di Venaria Reale, Gianduiotti San Carlo and Gelato Carignano were but a few from the list of gastronomic delights I encountered (and savoured with passion) while I toured the area.

Taking into account the dozen or so churches I counted on the west side of the ‘centro storico’, I got the impression of being in a religious zone of Catholic fanaticism and devotional belief. But once I set foot inside and found the buildings bereft of believers, I soon became aware that devotion has for the most part gone the way of the dodo and the majority of Torino churches have subsequently mutated into unofficial museums of fine arts and antiques. Only few (and these happen to be those that embrace the finest attractions) are still working churches and these can obviously be visited only in the absence of service.

One such place of worship that doubles as a working church and a museum is the fifteenth-century Renaissance Duomo. Raised from the level of Piazza San Giovanni by a flight of steps, it is a failed attempt at grandeur, much below expectations and unworthy of a city that embraces such a wide diversity of fine buildings. Visitors who come here are often doubly disappointed. The Cathedral is plain outside and devoid of decoration inside. The highly flaunted Holy Shroud, supposedly on show in the Holy Shroud Chapel at the back of the left-hand aisle was somewhere under lock and key hidden to visitors. All I could see was a photographic representation behind a sheet of glass and a video that touched on the historical aspect of the shroud and made an attempt to flag up its controversial authenticity.

What the Duomo lacks in decoration comes to light in profusion in what is perhaps the city’s epitome of baroque. Located on the western edge of Piazza Castello, exactly near the entrance to the courtyard that fronts the Palazzo Reale, the Church of St Laurence has no façade, the latter having been swallowed up by a wing of the palace. For this reason, the church is alas… often missed out. Its interior, covered from floor to ceiling with multi-streaked marble of the finest quality is a showcase of intricate ornamentation, fine paintings, vivid ceiling frescoes and lots of gilt. Make your way into the sacristy where a life-size reproduction of the Holy Shroud, better than the one behind glass in the Duomo is on display for veneration and inspection.

Behind the Church of St Laurence on Via Palazzo di Citta stands the single-nave Church of Corpus Domini. Its polluted exterior is far from spectacular but the interior décor, satisfactorily conserved comprises lots of historical artefacts steeped in legend. A glimmering gold monstrance and a plaque still stand in commemoration of a miracle that has reputedly occurred on the feast day of Corpus Domini.

On the western side of Via Roma, one more church amidst the lot that stands out for its unusual design, architectural elegance and gilded interior is the Basilica of the Consolata. A ten-minute walk west off the Duomo along Via Santa Chiara, it is located a stone’s throw from Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, the central square that hosts most of the city’s nightlife. The church is composed of an elliptical main section that unfolds into four round chapels. The highlight is the baroque high altar, an exclusive marble composition enhanced by a fabulous altarpiece that depicts the image of the Consolata in weeping mode but heavily bedecked with gold. The gilded frame of the painting is in actual fact more outstanding than the picture itself. Go around inspecting the details of what hangs to the walls of the church and the corridor that leads to the sacristy. All these are votive offerings presented by the faithful to demonstrate their love and devotion for the heartbroken Madonna.

East of Piazza Emanuele Filiberto is the vast space of Piazza della Repubblica, known by common Torinesi as Piazza Porta Palazzo. Cut across into two equal zones by traffic-jammed Corso Regina Margherita, it is the venue of a daily open-air savoury food market. The area south of the thoroughfare is dedicated to fruits, vegetables and spices while on the north side, one finds stalls that specialize in exotic cheeses, strange peppery concoctions and lots of pickled vegetables. The shadowy Liber Pavilion nearby is a butchers’ domination downstairs and a delicatessens’ paradise upstairs. Off the Liber Pavilion is a covered fish market surrounded with hundreds of stalls that deal in cheap clothing. If you happen to be here on a Saturday, walk a few steps to Via Borgo Dora where a traditional flea market known as Balon is held. The range of bric-a-bracs on display is so wide that the market often swallows up as well most of Piazza della Repubblica.

East of Via Roma, the streets are wider, undemanding to navigate and straight as a ruler. The number of churches in this part of the ‘centro storico’ is far less than in the western zone and the only two of significance are the Church of St Philip Neri and the parish Church of the Annunziata. St Philip Neri, located right in front of the entranceway to the Museo Egizio deserves a visit if only to see the superb historical altarpiece above its monumental high altar. In the first chapel on the left as you enter is a nonstop-running English documentary that touches on the history of the place and exposes in detail all the decorative aspects of the church. The Annunziata Church on Via Po under the porticoes is composed of a single nave lined with five side chapels on each side. Each chapel embraces distinctive features (paintings, stucco work, statues in bronze, marble or wood) worthy of note but it is the curving high altar that attracts the attention of visitors. Don’t miss the tabernacle door overlaid with an oval hand-sculpted medallion in fine white Carrara marble.

Via Po cuts straight through the eastern part of the ‘centro storico’ from Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Lined with elegant porticoes and crammed with restaurants and take-away joints, it is the place that Torinesi frequent for their evening ‘passeggiata’. A side street (Via Montebello) midway on Via Po leads to the National Cinema Museum housed inside the Mole Antonelliana, unequivocally the loftiest building in the city. Even if retracing the history of cinema through hands-on exhibits is not your cup of tea, come here if only to take the elevator to the panoramic terrace from where the view over the entire city is excellent.   Close

It was a Sunday afternoon in Bologna and I was suffering. My friends and I had been out the night before until approaching five. This had left me feeling somewhat deflated and in need of lift. Coffee at around 11h00 had had little impact. So…Read More

It was a Sunday afternoon in Bologna and I was suffering. My friends and I had been out the night before until approaching five. This had left me feeling somewhat deflated and in need of lift. Coffee at around 11h00 had had little impact. So too had the rather lavish we had consumed - neither the fantastic variety antipasti nor the huge pizza I ate could get me into gear. I still felt wretched. Because of this, my friend Sergio decided to raise my spirits. He said, "Paul, let me show you the funniest statue in Bologna". I was not 100% sure what he had in mind, but I decided to follow him regardless.

As he began his work as an impromptu tour guide he explained why the statue would be funny: "We are going to see the statue of Neptune. In many ways this is just a normal statue. But, if you look at it from a certain angle it looks very different." This confused me a little, so I asked him to explain. As he began to do so, a mischievous grin flicked across his face, "Well, if you see it from a certain angle the hand looks magic".
"How does it look magic?" I asked with a degree of confusion entering my voice.
"It looks like Neptune has a BIG penis."
This little tit-bit stopped me in my tracks. He went on to explain that if you stood at a certain angle behind the statue, Neptune's hand appeared from behind his leg looking remarkably like an amply-sized member.

Simply put, that was a side that - with my infantile mind - I had to see. So, we made our way to Bologna's main square post-haste. Sergio proved to be 100% correct. We stood there and giggled like schoolgirls. Looking around us, it was clear that we were not alone in rather juvenile senses of humour as there were plenty of other people standing in just the same spot.

After a couple of minutes of giggling and smirking, Sergio moved off to join up with our other friends whilst I snapped a few photographs. However, as I endeavoured to get just the right angle for the perfect shot, I was distracted by a far more sober and less heralded sight. About 20. Away from the statue is a wall that is covered in black and white pictures. I had no idea what it was, but the rather patchwork style grabbed me on an aesthetic level and I decided it would be a good idea to investigate. It turned out to be a far more sobering sight than the statue, but was nonetheless extremely interesting. Even though the caption was only in Italian it was relatively easy to work out that each of the photos was that of a member of the Italian Resistance killed during the Nazi occupation in WWII.

The sight was a sobering firstly because there were so many pictures. Each was smaller than a standard post-card and yet the collection of them was the size of the billboard. It was also a deeply arresting sight because it featured actual photos. Many memorials tend to list names - or anonymous nationalities where names cannot be confirmed. This tends to de-personalise the whole experience. For example, the cemeteries in the Somme are haunting places, but this is caused by the sheer heart-breaking scale. They are simply row upon row of graves and huge walls full of the names of soldiers whose remains were never found. However, in that situation, it is impossible to put faces to the names.

The wall was almost hypnotic. It created a sense of investment with the cause and with the sacrifice made by the men (The pictures were predominantly of me) in the pictures. Even though it was a memorial to partisan fighters, the men involved seemed sober and sensible. They looked like school teachers, doctors and bank managers. It was a fascinating little piece of history. As I stood and stared, Sergio came across to speak to me.
"It is not quite the same as the penis. But it is a very beautiful thing. We are very proud of these men".   Close

From an uninspiring town and a prime employment location to which workers from the south migrated to find a job in the automobile industry, Torino has in the last six years transformed itself into a pleasant place where historical piazzas, enticing boulevards and charming palaces…Read More

From an uninspiring town and a prime employment location to which workers from the south migrated to find a job in the automobile industry, Torino has in the last six years transformed itself into a pleasant place where historical piazzas, enticing boulevards and charming palaces and churches were turned into inviting spots for exploration. Venturing outside the ‘centro storico’ is however not as pleasant an experience as one might expect since Torino’s suburbs are still as dismal as any other rundown residential area. So, to get the best out of your visit and to leave Torino with a good impression, it is advisable to concentrate on the centre and explore its amazingly rich and vivid heritage.

Torino’s centre, small enough to be navigable on foot stretches out northwest of the River Po. Enclosed by a bend in the river from the east, Corso Inghilterra from the west, Corso Regina Margherita from the north and Corso Vittorio Emanuele from the south, it consists of a grid of tightly-packed streets that are for the most part lined with colonnaded porticoes, ideal for walking when it rains. Also ideal for walking (obviously in the absence of rain or frost) is the array of pedestrianized streets that grace the centre with their cobbled granite ground-covering. All streets in the centre, whether pedestrianized or not teem with shops of all sorts, some small and exclusive enough to offer a personal one-to-one service, others large and crammed with merchandise to the extent that choice becomes a challenging feat of evaluation. Embracing as well most of Torino’s heritage, the inner city encloses within its confines a rich legacy of opulent palaces, grand monuments and historical cafes that evolved progressively during four centuries of history. It is therefore here that one can truly discover Torino: a city that has combined effectively leisure and shopping with history and tradition.

Notwithstanding the multitude of attractions in the ‘centro storico’, one should reserve some time to venture beyond the walkable zone of the city and possibly take a trip to one of Torino’s far-flung districts where further attractions await visitors. Torino’s off-the-beaten-track locations are for the most part sparsely populated, giving visitors an additional opportunity to sightsee in an atmosphere of calm and seclusion. Choosing an out-of-the-way location depends much on one’s interests. Car enthusiasts will be in heaven in the Museo dell’Automobile. Juventus fans will definitely not be disappointed either with the endless number of trophies and memorabilia on show in the Juventus Museum. If one is neither a car enthusiast nor a soccer fan, one can opt instead for a day out away from the bustling life of downtown Torino. Choose from Parco della Mandria (northwest of the centre), Stupinigi (southwest of the centre) or Villa della Regina (on the right bank of the Po), each of these comprising an extensive area of landscape greenery with a central palace as the focus of attraction.

Reaching Torino’s remote locations is not easy unless one has private transport. Tram and bus stops are scattered around and finding the right stop is itself an adventure. However, the service is frequent and quick and this compensates to an extent for the time lost to locate the stop. In addition to this, most far-flung destinations require a combination of a tram and bus ride or a change of bus. The Tourist Information Centre on Piazza Castello provides free transport maps that show the principal stops along each bus and tram route.

Few years back, Torino’s Caselle airport was mostly reserved for internal flights but with the advent of low-cost airlines, Ryanair in particular, Caselle evolved into a medium-sized international hub from where the majority of European destinations could be reached. Accompanying this expansion in the number of flights, access from the airport to downtown Torino developed into a simple down-to-earth affair. The cheapest but most demanding option is the Dora train that runs between the airport and Stazione Dora at half-hourly intervals. Stazione Dora, on the northern outskirts of the city in a derelict suburb is connected to the centre either by regular bus or by the Dorafly service. Better but pricier is the Sadem bus that plies the ten-mile route between the airport and Stazione Porta Nuova every half-hour. The bus is slow taking fifty minutes to complete the trip along traffic-infested roads but the benefit of calling at convenient stops along the way makes up for the time-consuming concern. One such stop is Stazione Porta Susa, a huge modern glass-and-steel train station still at its completion stage after years of enlargement and renovation. All trains heading for Italy’s remote northwest Piemonte region, the ski resorts around the Aosta valley and the south of France call at Susa. So, using Stazione Porta Susa (without continuing to Stazione Porta Nuova) is a practical way to skip the hassle of Torino if one envisages proceeding further north.

The Sadem airport bus terminates the trip on Corso Vittorio Emanuele corner with Via Sacchi, right in front of the west side of Stazione Porta Nuova. The huge structure of the station is currently fenced in an enclosure of scaffolding that hides an otherwise bleak façade, uninspiring and architecturally bland. But set foot inside and you will find yourself in a monumental hallway hemmed in by state-of-the-art shops, stylish, trendy and colourful. One soon loses oneself in the confusion and forgets one is merely inside a train station. One outlet occupied by a branch of the Tourist Information Centre is an excellent source of information and inspiration for visitors who have just set foot in the city. The streets off the east edge of the station, Via Nizza and Via Saluzzo in particular teem with budget hotels and finding a suitable pad is normally child’s play, even in high season.

Stazione Porta Nuova, south of the city centre and within a stone’s throw of the city’s focus of activity can be looked upon as the gateway to Torino’s ‘centro storico’. Crossing the highway from Porta Nuova to Piazza Carlo Felice is no mean feat: Corso Vittorio Emanuele is thronged, at times blocked with traffic day and night. A sign of relief for pedestrians is the traffic lights that allow intermittent crossing and stop the flow of traffic.

Piazza Carlo Felice lined with seating on all sides and clustered with a small central area of greenery is nothing spectacular but is the kick-start of an adventure of pleasant surprises and unusual treats. North of the square is Via Roma, Torino’s modest answer to London’s Oxford Street. Though neither as pretentious nor as showy, Via Roma is nonetheless more graceful and charming, its side porticoes running from beginning to end imparting to the street an air of warmth and hospitality. All the big brands of Italian and international fashion are here; if not, they are definitely nearby along the side streets that radiate out of Via Roma. Try your luck as well along Via Lagrange, an entirely pedestrianized street parallel to Via Roma and maybe more graceful, crammed as it is with more fashion shops and lots of belle époque cafes, all equipped with outdoor tables decked out in colourful tablecloths.

The first section of Via Roma ends with a pair of monolithic nudes that have little artistic worth and do not deserve more than a passing glance. But venturing beyond the gigantic casts into Piazza San Carlo, one is faced with a grand pedestrian space surrounded with elegant porticoes where the well-heeled Torinesi sit down and discuss politics over a cup of coffee brew. Coffee shops with outdoor seating have over the years evolved into a Torino institution and Piazza San Carlo is no exception. Linger on if you have the time to inspect the central ‘caval de brons’, an imposing monument to Duke Emanuele Filiberto who raises his sword in victory after the San Quintino battle in 1574. The two baroque churches on the Porta Nuova side of Piazza San Carlo seem to be twins but identical they are not. Can you spot the variations?

On the northernmost extremity of Piazza San Carlo, Via Roma stretches out past the Museo Egizio and Galleria Sabauda to Piazza Carignano. Small in size but grand enough to contain what might be Torino’s most beautiful and history-steeped palace (Palazzo Carignano), this fine square houses as well Torino’s oldest theatre where all great Italian actors of the past performed.

Few more steps and one finds oneself where Via Roma unfolds into Torino’s grandest and largest square: Piazza Castello. Imposing, impressive and immortal, this square embraces enough attractions to fill up a whole day. The highlight is unquestionably the Palazzo Reale, the former residence of the Savoy dynasty. No less inviting is Palazzo Madama, a great place whose architectural features speak for more than seven centuries of history. Currently housing a museum of fine arts, it is definitely one attraction no visitor should miss out. Climb up the medieval tower for a privileged view of Piazza Castello.


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After spending a wonderful day I Rome, I went to the Roma Termini Train Station to buy a ticket to Venice for the next day. After entering my information on the automated machine, I realized that I had two options. I could stick to my…Read More

After spending a wonderful day I Rome, I went to the Roma Termini Train Station to buy a ticket to Venice for the next day. After entering my information on the automated machine, I realized that I had two options. I could stick to my plan and buy a ticket for the following day priced at 75 euros, or I could take an overnight train at a ridiculously low price of 32.50 Euros. Since my accomodation in Rome was only 20 Euros, I decided to take the overnight train, therefore saving myself over 22 Euros.

After organizing my luggage, I arrived at the train station about an hour ahead of the departure time. I spent a while browsing through several stores and found myself thinking that Roma Termini seems to be an extravagant shopping plaza which just happened to be attached to a train station. An abundance of boutiques, electronic stores and cafes had my head spinning, and I had to forcefully keep an eye on the time so that I wouldn't be late for my train.

As preparation for the journey ahead, I had a late meal at McDonalds, then proceeded to the in-house supermarket to buy a few snacks and a large bottle of water. After making my way to the platform area, I grabbed a seat on a bench and waited for my train to pull into the station. When it arrived, I hoisted my backpack on my shoulders and clambered aboard.

Based on my cheap fare, I was to be spending the night in an economy seat. My seat was located in a four person couchette carraige and my three roommates were already present. Two of them were local Italian men and the other was an African expat who spoke fluent English and Italian. I stored my backpack in the overhead compartment, donned a pair of socks and settled in.

The train pulled out of the station at 10:35 and I expected to arrive at the Venice S. Lucia train station at 5:20am. I mentally braced myself to stay awake for the duration of train ride, as I wasn't familiar with my roommates and I wasn't comfortable enough to fall asleep regardless of the combination lock on my backpack.

As a safety precaution, I had removed my passport and credit cards along with whatever important documents I had and placed them in a small bag which I sat on for the entire journey. In hindsight, perhaps I was being slightly paranoid, but I've read stories about people being robbed on night trains and I didn't want to take any chances.

The train ride was pretty uneventful for the most part, as we passed through several villages and towns, their streetlights shining exceptionally bright against the otherwise pitch black background. Halfway through the journey, the two Italian men departed, giving the the expat and myself more room to occupy.

A snack cart never came to visit our carriage, so I was extremely thankful for the snacks and water I'd bought at the Roma Termini train station. I offered some of my food to the expat lady who graciously accepted, and we engaged in light conversation for about an hour before she arrived at her stop and waved farewell.

After arriving in Venice, I got off the train just as the sun started to rise. I had successfully survived the overnight rail experience in Italy in an economy cabin and aside from being a bit bleary eyed, I was no worse for wear. I would definitely suggest upgrading to a cabin for greater peace of mind. The Night Train saves a lot of travel time for persons on a short trip and for the meagre price I paid, I was happy with the overall experience.    Close

It's no secret that Venice is the home to some of the most spectacular architectural sites of the Old World. Italy on a whole is brimming with ancient statues, magnificent arches and various memorials for persons who have made a considerable contribution to the nation.…Read More

It's no secret that Venice is the home to some of the most spectacular architectural sites of the Old World. Italy on a whole is brimming with ancient statues, magnificent arches and various memorials for persons who have made a considerable contribution to the nation. Even though the entire city of Venice is a historical wonderland, the hundreds of bridges and canals are one of the major attractions it offers.

The bridges and canals link together over 100 separate islands and islets, which create the floating city which we all know and love. While the canals by themselves aren't spectacular with their murky waters, coupled with the many bridges and ancient buildings found on their banks, they form one of the most photogenic sites on earth.

While many tourists prefer to view the bridges from the comfort of their gondolas, or via a vaporetto, I've found that the best way to experience these masonry arts is to clamber over them by foot.

There are many famous bridges all through the city, from the Accademia Bridge to the renowned Rialto Bridge. The Rialto Bridge has stood over the Grand Canal for centuries and its one of the oldest bridges currently in the City of Canals.

These bridges may be some of the largest, however there were countless others within the city which captured my interest. Some were extremely small in size, with approximately only twenty steps in total, linking two islands which were originally divided by a narrow waterway.

One of such quaint bridges was located near to a small restaurant, quite a distance away from the Grand Canal. The stonework on this suspended staircase blended in with the brick and mortar buildings within the immediate vicinity.

As I drew closer to San Marco Square, the aesthetic quality of the bridges noticeably increased. Pale stonework created these precious links across the canals, with different types of concrete patterns molded into the framework. Underneath these bridges, the canals which lay below were part of the gondola routes, so gondolas would pass under frequently, being expertly manned by their gondoliers.

While the bridges are really lovely to admire, they proved to be extremely essential in obtaining impressive photographs of the Venitian waterways. Standing in the middle of one of these bridges would provide a visitor with a great vantage point to capture not only the canals, but the buildings which stand on either side.

I found it utterly amazing how these bridges allowed me to walk from island to island. I must've crossed over thirty of these structures during my walk to San Marco Square from the Grand Canal, and each bridge had its own distinctive quality which made it stand out from the others.

What I thought would have been a long and tedious journey by foot turned out to be nothing short of magical, and I highly recommend all able visitors to take a long walk through the floating city. Some of the most stunning architectural pieces you will ever witness may be closer to your fingers than you'd think.   Close

A group of my friends, who I had met in China, were planning a European reunion. I live in Nice and two of them live in Bologna and Firenze in Italy. Because of this, we decided that it would be a good idea to meet…Read More

A group of my friends, who I had met in China, were planning a European reunion. I live in Nice and two of them live in Bologna and Firenze in Italy. Because of this, we decided that it would be a good idea to meet in Bologna in the spring and then perhaps in Nice during the hotter summer months. So, I got onto Google Maps and plotted my route through Northern Italy. As I did this, my girlfriend decided that she would like to visit the city as it "looked lovely" and was "perfect for taking photos". She also decided that it would be a good idea to take one of her friends with us. This is how I came to be driving to Bologna with two Bulgarian ladies in the pouring rain.
Google maps told me that it should take roughly four and a half hours to reach Bologna, I presumed that that figure would eventually be a little higher as we would need to stop en route for a few breaks as only I had a driver’s license and insurance coverage. However, I had no idea what kind of nightmare I would face on the way and how stressful the drive would prove to be. Were Bologna not so beautiful and my friends so cool, I would have very much regretted my decision to go there.
I will begin my tale by describing the route from nice to Bologna. I would split it into three distinct stages. The first leg of the journey on the A8 in France and the A10 in Italy blends mountains and coastline – the Southeast region of France is often called Alpes-Maritime because the mountains come almost to the shoreline. From there on the A26 and A7 in Italy, the road winds through the mountains before reaching flat ground in the centre of the country.
The first leg of the journey is magnificent. It combines a series of high viaducts that run over extremely deep valleys (both in France and in Italy) and long tunnels that cut through the mountains. The views from the viaducts are breathtaking. In one swish of the head you can often take in snow-covered peaks, mountain-top villages, clear blue seas and inviting beaches. The tunnels are also tremendous fun as they genuinely feel like you are in a science fiction movie or computer game and are driving towards the centre of the earth.
As we turned North and inland, the landscape changed; The sea disappeared and the mountains got larger. This meant that the tunnels grew longer and steeper. Ordinarily, the scenery would have been magnificent. However, as the day we had chosen to travel was extremely wet, the mountain highways proved extremely treacherous. At one point, as we headed uphill, the stream of water flowing down was like a small river and the car was barely making any progress. It was all rather frightening stuff, especially as most Italian drivers saw no reason at all to slow down in such hazardous conditions.
Finally, we turned onto the A1, which is the highway that operates down the centre of Italy calling at Bologna, Firenze and eventually Rome. By this point, the mountains had flattened out and it allowed me to catch up some time lost in the mountains. However, because of the conditions, it still took over seven hours to reach Bologna.
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There's something which occurs quite often in Venice, but not many people want to admit it. I guess it's a bit embarrassing for persons to admit that they're not quite the super travelers which their peers think them to be, but it happens. It's very…Read More

There's something which occurs quite often in Venice, but not many people want to admit it. I guess it's a bit embarrassing for persons to admit that they're not quite the super travelers which their peers think them to be, but it happens. It's very easy to get lost in Venice and thousands of travelers experience this every year.

Yes, there are signs plastered everywhere for visitors who prefer to walk their way around the floating city by means of bridges. These signs indicate for tourists to turn right or left at the end of an alley, while being shepherded in the right direction. However, these signs aren't around every corner, and this is where the opportunity presents itself to get lost.

When my friend Jennifer and I lost our way, we didn't even realize it for at least ten minutes. We were so distracted by the beauty which surrounded us, it took us quite a while to notice that the hoards of visitors were gone, and we were now in what seemed to be a residential area of the floating city.

We were no longer surrounded by souvenir shops and stalls touting postcards. All of the brightly clothed tourists had disappeared from around us, and we were the only persons armed with cameras. We never felt scared, but we preferred the comfort of being around others while in a foreign city.

We tried to backtrack the route from which we came, but undoubtedly ended up taking a different turn along the way. We thought we could find our way back if we stuck to the canals, however this proved futile, when all of the vaporetto stations we found were totally abandoned. I believe that we would've been less concerned if the day was still young, but unfortunately, dusk had started to drift in.

Trying not to panic, we quickly marched along another canal, hoping to find the touristy section of Venice before the last of the sunlight dispersed into darkness. We kept an eye out for locals who we hoped knew sufficient English to help us with directions, but everyone was holed up in their homes, with flickering candlelight behind heavy curtains being the only indication that persons were indeed nearby.

Finally we came upon a vaporetto station, which although empty, featured a detailed map. After identifying our location, we realized that we had strayed quite a far distance from central Venice. Removing a piece of paper from my day bag, I wrote down the different landmarks which we needed to find in order to make our way back. All the while, our valued sunlight grew dimmer.

In my opinion, it took forever to maneuver through the labyrinth of alleys and bridges, tracking one statue or fountain after another before we finally saw souvenir shops begin to appear. Afterwards, we saw a trickle of tourists which turned into a full stream of colourfully clad individuals.

Words can scarcely explain the relief which we felt after being engulfed in the crowd. While this experience is one that visitors can look back and smile about, it can be downright nerve-racking while you're in the middle of it.

I recommend future travelers who are interested in venturing through Venice on their own to pack a proper map of the city along with a fully charged flashlight. Venice is a great place for independent visitors, but always keep track of where you are to avoid being lost in this urban maze.   Close

Fed and watered we made our way to San Siro football stadium, the cathedral of Italian football and home of Inter and AC Milan. The stadium’s real name is Stadio Giuseppe Meazza but I always know it as San Siro. We had looked at our…Read More

Fed and watered we made our way to San Siro football stadium, the cathedral of Italian football and home of Inter and AC Milan. The stadium’s real name is Stadio Giuseppe Meazza but I always know it as San Siro. We had looked at our map of Milan and decided to walk to the stadium from the Lotto Metro. We reckoned it would take about 30 minutes. We could see a trail of other people walking, all wearing T shirts with the Boss emblazoned on the front, some wore US bandanas and flags wrapped around their waists bearing the colours of Italy and USA. The atmosphere was alive and there was a real buzz out on the street. Before we reached the stadium I wanted to look out for Leonardo Da Vinci’s bronze horse statue which is at the entrance of the Piazzale dello Sport or otherwise known as the hippodrome.

We knew it was very early to arrive at the stadium at 4pm as the concert didn’t start until 8pm but I wanted to see all the fans arrive one by one and soak up the images and noise from the fans. When we reached the hippodrome I sneaked up to the entrance where there was a locked gate but I could see the massive sculpture. My husband was fascinated at the size and he had no idea that Leonardo had sculptured the horse. It sure was a beauty. Crossing over the road I saw the outline of the most famous football ground in the world. I was excited and kept doing a little jump.

Walking into the grounds of the stadium was easy enough. There were security guards and police walking around but they seemed laid back enough. Stalls were set up selling Springsteen merchandise which was an array of colour; there were food stalls stacked high with Italian breads, cheeses, fresh cooked meats, olives, cakes, it all looked very tempting but we had just eaten so declined. In one corner I could hear Bruce singing, ‘Working on a Dream’ the sound was coming from a juke box in a bar that had been set up for fans to quench their thirst before entering the stadium. I did think about a beer but thought better of it, I was eager to get into the stadium to find our seats plus I didn’t want to be queuing to go to the loo all through the concert.

Arriving at our gate, 1 Anello Verde, we were greeted with a welcome, 'Hello' in Italian and a big smile and shown through the barrier. That’s all there was to it. We were in the stadium and it was a great feeling. I ran up the stairs, I couldn’t wait to get to the top of so I could take in the view of the stage and the whole seating plan. It was amazing, the roof was open and the sunlight streamed through on to the hundreds of people who were sat in the pit relaxing, waiting for the Boss to arrive with his bunch of Merry Men. The rest of the seats were empty but I knew that in 4 hours’ time the arena would be bursting with energy and there would be a sea of waving hands.

It took a short time for us to find our exact seats as the numbering sequence wasn’t so easy to work out because you have to look at the seating plan from the bottom of the section to work out the sequence.

We made ourselves comfortable and watched people arrive. Sometimes there would be a movement on stage, a technician, fiddling with a guitar or covering the piano up with tin foil to stop the sun affecting the tuning. Whenever this happened folks in the pit went crazy, thinking the band were on stage and started running over to where the movement was. It was always a false alarm and the crowd returned quietly to their sunbathing spots. It was a lovely atmosphere, people seemed happy, sellers of popcorn and candyfloss were jumping over seats to sell their wares. It was a bit like a carnival with balloons floating around, music drifting from the PA system and Italian and American flags flying high.

Time didn’t seem to drag at all; every hour that passed the canvas filled up with more bodies, reminding me of L.S. Lowry’s paintings where there are always hundreds of small people involved whether they are stood still, walking, or talking. At the back of the pit there were beer stalls which as you can imagine were well attended, to the side of the pit were portable toilets and the queues for these were never ending. Our bar was situated outside the seating area and no matter how hot I felt I was determined not to have a drink. I had a pint of beer at the last Springsteen concert I went to in the UK, had to go to the loo and by the time I had walked back up the steps I had missed the Boss singing, 'Jack of all Trades', one of my favourite songs off the new album, 'Wrecking Ball.'

The stage looked magnificent as did the rigging in the centre of the pit for the lighting. It takes five articulated lorries to transport the stage equipment around and God knows how long it takes for them to erect it but it looked fantastic and the time was approaching for the lighting technician to climb up to the top of the rigging to take the covers off the lights. I always get nervous and very excited when this happens because it is a signal that the moment when the band comes on stage is not long away.

Fifteen minutes before the concert is due to start there is movement in the pit, the hard core fans are getting restless, they start waving and singing Bruce songs. Shivers trickle down my spine and my heart misses a beat. 8pm arrives, Italian flags form moving waves of red, green and white. The Boss is here – he is under the stage with the band but there seems to be a problem with the sound. Instructions flit from one technician to another, Bruce’s head peeps out to see what the problem is, He is given the nod and then his head disappears.

Fifteen minutes later, emotional strings of the song, ‘Once Upon a Time in the West' can be heard from the PA system. It’s an Enio Morricane spaghetti western theme tune and one that Bruce is fond of. The band is now on stage and Bruce Springsteen, in front of 60,000 fans, looks up at the red and white ocean in front of him that reads, ‘OUR LOVE IS REAL.’ For once in his life, il Boss is lost for words. You can see the emotion in his face, he smiles, composes himself and then rich Italian words flow from his lips, ‘Itaaalia, Milaaano, San Siiiro.’ Italian is one of the world’s most romantic languages and our Bruce speaks it beautifully, rolling his ‘Rs’ like a true native. He may have been born in New Jersey, USA but his family are from Napoli. Suddenly, we hear the chords of ‘Land of Hope and Dreams’ and then the next song quickly follows, ‘My Love will Not Let You Down’. My husband has tears in his eyes and as I turn around and turn to my right I see other men sobbing.

One special moment was when he informed us beautifully in Italian that he was going to perform the whole of the Born in the USA album to honour his first time in Italy and his first concert at San Siro in 1985. Other extraordinary highlights were the intense version of ‘The River’ and the solo performance of ‘Thunder Road’, with just his acoustic guitar. It was the last song of the set, the band had left and Bruce wanted an intimate moment with a crowd he has always adored. With his hand on his heart; he told us that San Siro will always be close to his heart. I stood there clapping, shouting for more, feeling exhilarated, exhausted, and not wanting him to leave the stage. My husband put his arm around me and whispered, ‘He’s gone.’ I couldn’t believe it; I didn’t want to believe it. People started to move out but I wanted to stay and look at the film showing on the big screen of all the past five San Siro concerts. The Boss felt our emotions, saw our faces and gave us what we wanted; a concert of a life time featuring 34 songs covering 210 minutes performed with energy, passion and love. We couldn’t ask for more and nor could he.

As the E Street band left the stage, on the big screen my husband lip-read Bruce saying to his side-kick Little Stevie, ‘that was incredible,’ and indeed, it truly was.
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The canals of Venice are some of the most famous waterways of the world. Most visitors aspire to spend some time sailing on the canals, usually by way of the beautiful gondolas. These traditional Venetian boats float about the city, providing spectacular views which…Read More

The canals of Venice are some of the most famous waterways of the world. Most visitors aspire to spend some time sailing on the canals, usually by way of the beautiful gondolas. These traditional Venetian boats float about the city, providing spectacular views which can't be witnessed from land. The gondola rides however are shockingly expensive and while I'm sure that it's an experience of a lifetime, with tours starting from 80 euros for less than an hour of sailing time, it simply wasn't affordable.

For budget minded travellers however, this doesn't mean that you can't enjoy the floating city for less. There's a public water transportation system using a small boat known as a vaporetto, allowing a cheaper way to travel via the water. These small boats are basically water buses, transporting passengers along various routes to get from one section of the city to another.

In my case, this was my second trip to Venice and I wanted to visit the San Marco Square once again. I didn't want to walk as I did the first time, so I made my way to the vaporetto station and bought two one way tickets for a price of 7 euros each. These tickets can be purchased from the small Hellovenezia ticket booths which are usually located within close proximity to the vaporetto piers, and they're valid for a period of 1 hour. Travel Cards can be bought for different timeframes such as 20 euros for 24 hours.

Located on each vaporetto pier is a large map of the different routes and stops on the vaporetto circuit. I studied the path which led to the San Marco Square and took note of which number vaporetto I needed to board. When my boat came around, I jumped on and secured a seat near the front of the vessel, which offered an awesome vantage point.

The vaporetto slowly backed up, turned about then headed off! While on the water bus, everything looked photo worthy. We passed under many bridges, sailed by other boats on the water and even overtook a few gondolas! The vaporetto made several intermittent stops before I got off at the station for the San Marco Square.

After I toured the area for a while, it was time to head back. I returned to the pier and waited for another vaporetto to arrive. I found the system to be very efficient, and before I knew it I was on my way to the Venezia Santa Lucia train station.

There's something I should mention which future passengers should be aware of. The vaporetto tickets must be stamped before boarding, which starts the period of validity. In other words, you can buy the single use tickets in advance, and they'll only become expired an hour after being validated.

Using the vaporetto system to get around the canals of Venice is a far cheaper alternative to a gondola ride. Both methods offer visitors the opportunity of sailing along the water channels. If romance and luxury aren't as important as the cost factor, then explore the city via vaporetto. I highly recommend it!    Close