Christmas in Munich

Dorint Novotel Muenchen City

Best Of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Great amenities, awesome location and a good deal"

Quote:

We spent a great deal of time debating where to stay in Munich. There were many factors at play, none more so than cost. The hotel needed to have a restaurant, be within walking distance to Marienplatz, and having a pool was a bonus. We quickly realized this was not possible on our budget in the city center, so we looked by the train station and in Haidhausen - the district around the Ostbahnhof. The reviews of the area around the train station said it lacked any sort of quaintness and was a bit seedy (having walked around that area I agree). Uneasy about these reviews we settled on Haidhausen. This more residential neighborhood is just east of the Deutsches Museum and only a 10 minute walk to Marie...Read More

We spent a great deal of time debating where to stay in Munich. There were many factors at play, none more so than cost. The hotel needed to have a restaurant, be within walking distance to Marienplatz, and having a pool was a bonus. We quickly realized this was not possible on our budget in the city center, so we looked by the train station and in Haidhausen - the district around the Ostbahnhof. The reviews of the area around the train station said it lacked any sort of quaintness and was a bit seedy (having walked around that area I agree). Uneasy about these reviews we settled on Haidhausen. This more residential neighborhood is just east of the Deutsches Museum and only a 10 minute walk to Marienplatz.

There are four main hotels in Haidhausen - Hilton, Holiday Inn, Motel 1 and Novotel.

I think a traveler would be happy at any of these hotels, but we really like the customer service and amenities at Novotel hotels. We booked our room through Hotels.com for $108.73 a night. The hotel is situated on Hochstrasse just a five to seven minute walk from the Ostbahnhof train station. Since it's on a side street it's very quiet.

The lobby is very cozy and inviting, and chock-full of amenities. There was complimentary use of two computers and a printer. Opposite the check-in desk was were two sectioned-off seating areas - one was a lounge area with couches and chairs (perfect for reading) and the other a playroom with a couple video game consoles (I believe there was a X-Box).

The check-in staff was very friendly and spoke wonderful English. I found them to be very accommodating throughout the stay - they got us extra pillows, bathrobes and toiletries. This Novotel did not have a concierge, but the front desk staff was knowledgeable.

We stayed in a Novotel during Christmas the year before in Paris, and our room was identical to that one - same layout, same orange pillows, same desk and exact same bathroom. As expected the room was very clean.

Immediately inside the door there was a shelving unit was a safe, mini-fridge and coffee pot. To the left was the toilet closet. The main room was spacious with a queen bed, a foldout couch, coffee table and combo desk/TV stand. The bathroom was entered through the bedroom and had a deep tub and a separate shower.

The large double windows overlooked the roof of the lobby and across the way were more rooms - far enough away to give a sense of privacy. It's the little touches that make a trip memorable, and in this case, it was the white icicle lights hanging above the windows across the way.

The hotel pool was heated, but a bit too chilly for me. The pool-deck was quite nice - lots of lounge chairs and very clean.

Right off the lobby was a full service bar with a limited food and dessert menu, and a Michelin guide recommended restaurant. We visited the bar on Christmas night after dinner at the Hofbräuhaus. We split a dessert and had a couple glasses of port. It was a very nice setting, and was reasonably priced. The hotel restaurant had a fair number of people at each dinner. We only dined in the restaurant for the Christmas day breakfast buffet. It cost €25 per person, but I believe it was well worth it - it was also the only thing open. They had all the normal fixings - pastries, breads and jams, yogurt, salads, and cheeses. There was also a nice variety of cured meats and hot sausages. The hot food station served waffles, pancakes, scrambled eggs, and made-to-order omelets. Most importantly, the coffee was free flowing.

I had an absolutely wonderful stay at the Novotel from check-in to check-out. I highly recommend this hotel for its service, amenities and location.
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Dorint Novotel Muenchen City
HOCHSTRASSE 11 BAYERN
Munich, Germany
49-49-661070

Cheer!
Flag

Munich Christmas Market

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "A Christmas market to remember"

Quote:

There is no place more synonymous with Christmas that Bavaria (except maybe the North Pole), which is why we chose to spend our holiday in Munich. The highlight of Christmas in Munich is the Christkindlmarkt, or I should really say the Christkindlmarkts, as they are all over the city.The main market is in the old town but each neighborhood has its own. Near our hotel in the Haidhausen neighborhood there was a quaint market in the center of a roundabout. Since this was a residential neighborhood the crowd was mainly local. Over in the gay neighborhood around Stephansplatz was the festive pink market. It was only open in the evening and we visited during the day, but the giant pink plastic ...Read More

There is no place more synonymous with Christmas that Bavaria (except maybe the North Pole), which is why we chose to spend our holiday in Munich. The highlight of Christmas in Munich is the Christkindlmarkt, or I should really say the Christkindlmarkts, as they are all over the city.

The main market is in the old town but each neighborhood has its own. Near our hotel in the Haidhausen neighborhood there was a quaint market in the center of a roundabout. Since this was a residential neighborhood the crowd was mainly local. Over in the gay neighborhood around Stephansplatz was the festive pink market. It was only open in the evening and we visited during the day, but the giant pink plastic Christmas trees promised a good time.

Back to Marienplatz, ground zero for the Christmasmarkt world. The square in front of city hall had the highest density of stalls selling food, ornaments, crafts, toys and so on. From there the market spread north, south and west along Munich's main pedestrian shopping street.

The food was the highlight for us. Nearly every lunch and snack was enjoyed while standing at a tall table. They had all the German staples - currywurst, potato pancakes, bratwurst, giant pretzels, Nuremburg sausages, and so on.

I also had something called a rahm schmaukerl (see photo) - an oval shaped pizza-esque snack covered in a spreadable Emmental, bacon and green onions. No words can express how good it truly tasted - piping hot, soft bread, crispy-salty bacon and creamy cheese.

I was disappointed to see that a lot of the items were made in China, as opposed to Germany or even neighboring countries. Some of the ornament and craft stalls had items made in China and Germany. For instance, I wanted a Glockenspiel and at one stall the prices ranged from €10 to over €75, so I inquired as to the difference and the gentleman explained the cheaper ones were made in China. If you're looking for an authentic German made product don't be afraid to ask.

We spend more time at the market than I imagined we would, mainly due to the energy that seemed to buzz through the entire old town. A trip to Munich when the markets are up is a must.
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Munich Christmas Market
Marienplatz-Old Town
Munich, Bavaria

Cheer!
Flag

Wirtshaus in der Au

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Neighborhood beer hall, authentic lederhosen clad waiters"

Wirtshaus in der Au Photo - Wirtshaus in der Au, Munich, Germany

Quote:

I absolutely loved the Wirtshaus in der Au. Located just east of the old town, it's smack dab in the middle of a residential neighborhood - and nearly everyone was a local. The interior was very warm and cozy. From the waist up the walls were a smoke-stained white, and below the walls were covered in dark wood. The large room had a vaulted ceiling with dark metal orb shaped chandeliers, and nearly every table had a flickering candle. Half a dozen large windows overlooked the street.The restaurant was packed when we arrived and we did not have a reservation. We talked to a couple waitresses before finding someone that spoke English, and we were directed to the bar where we waited about 1...Read More

I absolutely loved the Wirtshaus in der Au. Located just east of the old town, it's smack dab in the middle of a residential neighborhood - and nearly everyone was a local. The interior was very warm and cozy. From the waist up the walls were a smoke-stained white, and below the walls were covered in dark wood. The large room had a vaulted ceiling with dark metal orb shaped chandeliers, and nearly every table had a flickering candle. Half a dozen large windows overlooked the street.

The restaurant was packed when we arrived and we did not have a reservation. We talked to a couple waitresses before finding someone that spoke English, and we were directed to the bar where we waited about 10 minutes.

We were seated in the raised back of the restaurant with a fantastic view of the whole place. This view included the many waiters sporting lederhosen (see the photos). This was not a touristy spot so the lederhosen weren't for show - which made it even more memorable.

We ordered a couple Paulaners at €6 each and pretzels with sweet mustard and spreadable cheese. I highly recommend the pretzels - they were soft, salty and hot.

The term "pork knuckle" was on nearly every restaurant's menu - Schweinshaxe in German. I was utterly confused by this, and thought it was translated incorrectly. I was curious enough that when I saw it in this menu I pulled the trigger. It's basically a ham hock, part of the pig's leg served with the bone. It can be fatty with many tendons but when cooked right, like this, the skin gets crispy and meat tender. The meat is near the bone, so you have to peel away the skin and fat - it's worth the extra work. Two large dumplings accompanied the pork. They were perfect; I ate them both. A pool of gravy made from the pork drippings filled the entire plate, and was absolutely delicious.

The whole meal came to around €60 (both entrees). The quality of the food and the atmosphere made the price a bargain.
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Wirtshaus in der Au
Lilienstrasse 51
Munich, Germany 81669
+49 89 4481400

Cheer!
Flag

Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Cozy locals spot with great food"

Pea Soup Photo - Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle, Munich, Germany

Quote:

The Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle is attached to the Golden Leaf Hotel. From the main entrance to the building you take a left to enter the hotel or a right for the restaurant. The restaurant is down a couple steps from the street level - the windows were similar to what you would see in a garden apartment. It was very cozy and warm. The dining room was a large square with a stairwell in the center, which resulted in a few intimate rooms around the space. Each seemed to have a character of its own. Right inside the door were a row of tables with bench seating on the outside wall and a couple single tables on the inside wall. Moving counter clockwise the next room was smaller and very cozy - with the ...Read More

The Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle is attached to the Golden Leaf Hotel. From the main entrance to the building you take a left to enter the hotel or a right for the restaurant. The restaurant is down a couple steps from the street level - the windows were similar to what you would see in a garden apartment. It was very cozy and warm. The dining room was a large square with a stairwell in the center, which resulted in a few intimate rooms around the space. Each seemed to have a character of its own. Right inside the door were a row of tables with bench seating on the outside wall and a couple single tables on the inside wall. Moving counter clockwise the next room was smaller and very cozy - with the candles flickering it had a very romantic feel. The next room was the largest and most bright, but still warm and inviting.

We dined at Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle twice during our stay. The first evening we arrived late, around 9:30 after a return train ride from Salzburg. The place was nearly full, with an energetic, but not too rowdy, crowd. The second time was our last night. We had a 6 am flight the next morning so we opted for an earlier dinner. The staff was very friendly and helpful throughout both dining experiences. They gave us English menus both times, which made ordering difficult because instead of saying Schnitzel it said, "pressed fried veal" and for Sauerbraten said "meat in sweet sauce." Ask for the German menu in addition - it will help reduce the number of questions you may have.

Let's talk food.

On our second trip we ordered the pork drippings with crispy onions and bread to start. For some reason we anticipated the drippings would be warm, similar in consistency to bone marrow; we were wrong. It was an egg bowl heaping with brown and white fat. It actually had a good taste, but I had issues with the texture - very thick and slippery (obviously), and it left a coating around your mouth. The first few bites were great, but it was too rich to eat much more.

A very nice surprise occurred a few minutes before our dinners were served. The waitress brought out complimentary mini-servings of their homemade soup. During the first visit she brought the best pea soup we have ever had - salty, meaty and perfectly puréed; the second night was a potato soup - not too creamy or think. I definitely recommend ordering a soup to start your meal based on these samples.

The first evening I order the Schnitzel. My parter laughed because in the U.S. the Schnitzel is always dry and overly breaded. This was not. It was fried to golden brown perfection, the breading was very thin and the meat was tender and juicy. It was accompanied by cranberry jam - the combination was deadly. The side (which I could hardly finish) was a good size portion of roasted potatoes. They were tender and piping hot. My partner tried the Schnitzel and was smitten - he ordered it on our second trip.

My second meal happened to be my favorite German dish, Sauerbraten. The chunks of meat were bathed in a perfectly seasoned sauce - just sweet enough to satisfy the taste buds, but not overly sweet as to make you want to stop eating. In fact, I ate every last bit of it. On the same plate was a dumpling the size of my fist. It was soft and mouthwatering good. The dish also came with a bowl of red cabbage, with just the right amount of sweetness (like the main entree).

The food and drink prices were on par with most of the other restaurants we visited during our trip. Entrees were around €12-16, starters were around €5-8 and beer was reasonably priced around €5. Dinner for two - entrees, one appetizer and two beers each - came to just around €50.

When traveling I tend not to repeat restaurants on the same trip, but this one was worth breaking that rule, for these meals were some of the best we had in Munich. And it was open on Christmas day.
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle
4 Mariahilfplatz
Munich, Germany
089 4421 8821

Cheer!
Flag

Hofbräuhaus

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Too touristy, but only place open on Christmas"

Quote:

Hofbräuhaus is one of Munich's most famous sites, and perhaps its most famous restaurant. We were a bit apprehensive to visit the Hofbräuhaus given its high place on the tourist map, but as it was one of the only affordable places open on Christmas Eve we had no choice.We made a reservation a month before - which in theory was a good idea since the restaurant was absolutely packed. However, we had no idea what to do when we arrived so we asked a waiter who told us to find ‘the waitress in blue.’ After 15 minutes of looking for her we nearly gave up, walked outside and in through a different door. We found a gentleman wearing a vest who looked at our printed reservation, smiled, and called...Read More

Hofbräuhaus is one of Munich's most famous sites, and perhaps its most famous restaurant. We were a bit apprehensive to visit the Hofbräuhaus given its high place on the tourist map, but as it was one of the only affordable places open on Christmas Eve we had no choice.

We made a reservation a month before - which in theory was a good idea since the restaurant was absolutely packed. However, we had no idea what to do when we arrived so we asked a waiter who told us to find ‘the waitress in blue.’ After 15 minutes of looking for her we nearly gave up, walked outside and in through a different door. We found a gentleman wearing a vest who looked at our printed reservation, smiled, and called someone. A couple minutes later the elusive women in blue arrived and said she'd try to find us a table even though we were 20 minutes late. We had no energy to argue so we followed. We were seated on one of the annexes at a table with three travelers from the UK. Service was a bit slow - we had to wave down the waitress more than once to place our drink and food orders.

We ordered the bread basket to start. The customary Bavarian pretzel was accompanied by a couple roles and a slice of rye bread - nothing too special.

No trip to the Hofbräuhaus would be complete without a couple mugs of their famous beer. The dark and light beers were available in .5L and 1L, and both sizes were reasonably priced.

For our entrees we both ordered the Sauerbraten. The two large cuts of beef were tender, but slightly overdone. Often Sauerbraten can be overly sweet, but this sauce had a good balance between sweet and savory. The two medium sized dumplings were just as good - soft, salty and hot. With some difficulty, I was able to eat every last bite.

If you want the large, impersonal beer hall then this is your place. But, of you are looking for a more cozy meal where you can actually hear your fellow diners, I'd recommend skipping the Hofbräuhaus.
Read Less

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Hofbräuhaus
Am Platzl 9
Munich, Germany 80331
+49 89 221676

Cheer!
Flag

Metzgerei A. Klobeck

Restaurant | "The best Leberkäse!"

Quote:

As the shops around Viktualienmarkt were closing for the Christmas holiday we were attempting to get as much German food in our bellies as possible, as we wouldn't have another chance before we left Munich. Thinking one last Leberkäse was needed, we walked over to a spot we tried the day before, but upon seeing a dozen people standing in front of Metzgerei A. Klobeck, faces stuffed with yummy looking Leberkäse, we changed our plans.Primarily a butcher shop selling fresh and aged meats, a few chalkboard signs announced the days selection of hot sandwiches. The interior was charming. One large display case along the lefthand wall and a shallow, chest high counter to the right on which cust...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 24, 2012

Metzgerei A. Klobeck
Viktualienmarkt 15
Munich, Germany 80331
089 265999

Cheer!
Flag

Munchner Suppenkuche

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Soup to warm you up on a cold day..."

Muchner Suppenkuche Photo - Munchner Suppenkuche, Munich, Germany

Quote:

Munchner Suppenkuche was all over the Munich food blogs - so when we had an opportunity to grab a bowl of soup we gladly ceased it. Located in the Viktualienmarkt, Munich 's food meccha, it promised to be a great meal.Throughout the market restaurant's were set up in fancy tents with full service kitchens, bars and plenty of seating. The Munchner Suppenkuche tent was no different. Right inside the entrance is a window where all orders are placed - eat in and take out. The soups were in large heated containers so customers could see them before ordering. Around the side and back of the kitchen were high quality wooden tables and chairs - two and four seaters. Near the ordering window th...Read More

Munchner Suppenkuche was all over the Munich food blogs - so when we had an opportunity to grab a bowl of soup we gladly ceased it. Located in the Viktualienmarkt, Munich 's food meccha, it promised to be a great meal.

Throughout the market restaurant's were set up in fancy tents with full service kitchens, bars and plenty of seating. The Munchner Suppenkuche tent was no different. Right inside the entrance is a window where all orders are placed - eat in and take out. The soups were in large heated containers so customers could see them before ordering. Around the side and back of the kitchen were high quality wooden tables and chairs - two and four seaters. Near the ordering window there were a few tall tables where you could stand and eat.

We stopped in at 2 pm on Christmas Eve, and nearly every table was filled. We asked the cashier to tell us which soups were being offered. There were approximately six or seven - it wasn't clear if they normally offer all the soups listed on the menu and they had run out as they were set to close in an hour for three days, or if they had different offerings each day. We ordered two bowls and two draft Spatens.

It took less than five minutes for our order to be assembled, which we then took to a table in the rear. We ordered bowls of Maultaschesuppe and Minestrone. The Maultaschesuppe was described as Swabian dumplings filled with savory beef or chicken broth (from the website). The large dumplings were very flavorful, but the broth was a bit bland. The Minestrone was described as a rich vegetable soup from Italy with a strong aroma of fresh ingredients (also from the site). It was very under seasoned, almost to the point of lacking any flavor. The soups came with pieces of rye bread which weren't half bad - soft and flavorful - but I don't think it went with both soups.

While our meals were not quite the culinary experience we were anticipating, I liked the atmosphere and the concept, so I would definitely try it again. I just wish we had visited a day earlier. And, given all the positive reviews on the web, I recommend visitors to Munich try it as well. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 22, 2012

Munchner Suppenkuche
Viktualienmarkt Off Of Frauen Str.
Munich, Germany

Cheer!
Flag

Schmalznudel

Attraction | "Donuts from heaven"

Quote:

Upon opening the door of Schmalznudel-Cafe Frischhut you will faint from the amazing smell of donuts being made in this small Munich institution. Not in any guidebook or travel blog I read, it was a recommendation from a young German couple we met on our return train ride from Salzburg.The narrow space had some tables toward the back with a counter just inside the door. Golden rings of goodness were floating in a vat of oil. Our train friends wrote down the names of two donuts we had to try: Schmalznudel and Krapfen. After attempting to pronounce them I handed the paper over. She read them off and nodded; a fellow customer with a think German accent said "Good choice. Those are the best...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Schmalznudel
Prälat-Zistl-Straße 8
Munich, Germany 80331
+49 89 268237

Cheer!
Flag

Vinzenzmurr

Restaurant | "Cheap, quick and tasty snacks"

Quote:

Vinzenzmurr is a chain of butchers based in Munich, with locations around Bavaria. They specialize in meats, but sell cheeses and dairy products. In addition, they offer a limited selection of sandwiches and hot snacks.We stumbled across this location on the edge of Viktualienmarkt as we unsuccessfully searched for some breakfast - looking for something we normally eat in the morning, perhaps eggs or pastries. It was here we realized a breakfast of meat and bread was the norm in Bavaria.You can enter the store through either of the large doorways. The left side had the cabinets of meat, cheese and other products, and the right side had the hot snacks and tables by which custome...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 22, 2012

Vinzenzmurr
Viktualienmarkt 15
Munich, Germany 80331
089 2604527

Cheer!
Flag

Munich Residenz

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Walk the same halls as the Bavarian Kings"

Quote:

The Münchner Residenz is the largest palace in Germany and was home to generations of Bavarian monarchs. Located in the center of Munich it's a great way to take a break from upscale shopping on Maximilianstrasse.Take the U-Bahn or S-Bahnof to Marienplatz and walk just a few short blocks north.In addition to touring the 130 rooms of the palace, you can visit the Treasury and Cuvilliés-Theatre - you can visit two or three on a combined ticket or just visit one. Here are the admission costs from the website:Residenz Museum€7 regular€6 reducedTreasury€7 regular€6 reducedCombination ticket "Residenz Museum/ Treasury"...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Munich Residenz
Max-joseph-platz 3
Munich, Germany 80539
49 (89) 290-671

Cheer!
Flag

Glyptothek

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "An unexpected museum in Munich, open on Christmas"

Quote:

You wouldn't normally think of visiting a Greek and Roman sculpture museum while in Germany, unless you're visiting Munich on Christmas day and the Glyptothek is one of a select few attractions open.The building is right next to the Königsplatz S-Bahn station. We opted for the 20 minute walk from Marienplatz, which I highly recommend as the path takes you along some of the prettiest streets in Munich.Built by King Ludwig I to hold his collection of Greek and Roman sculptures, the Glyptothek now houses the State Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities. The building is massive with a large portico featuring a series of Ionic columns (thank you classics courses in college). T...Read More

You wouldn't normally think of visiting a Greek and Roman sculpture museum while in Germany, unless you're visiting Munich on Christmas day and the Glyptothek is one of a select few attractions open.

The building is right next to the Königsplatz S-Bahn station. We opted for the 20 minute walk from Marienplatz, which I highly recommend as the path takes you along some of the prettiest streets in Munich.

Built by King Ludwig I to hold his collection of Greek and Roman sculptures, the Glyptothek now houses the State Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities. The building is massive with a large portico featuring a series of Ionic columns (thank you classics courses in college). The building sits in the center of a large barren plot, giving it an imposing feel.

You enter through the right side of the portico and proceed to the gift shop/ticket desk. Normally the entrance fee is €3.50, but since it was Sunday it was a mere €1.

A large courtyard was in the center of the building and nearly every gallery in the rectangular building featured windows overlooking it. The building was originally built completely of marble with beautiful ornate frescoes adorning the interior walls. Unfortunately the structure was heavily bombed during WWII (not a surprise given its proximity to the Nazi Party complex just two blocks away). None of the frescoes survived so the interior today has a base of red bricks and a coat of light plaster.

The collection is very impressive and features some fantastically preserved pieces. Highlights include the Medusa Rondanini and the Barberini Faun. A few galleries had sculptures from temple pediments. It took me a few minutes to understand what I was looking at, for the curators present a pediment with the sculptures as they are today with an adjacent pediment featuring completely reconstructed sculptures to give you a better idea of what it originally looked like. My favorite room featured, maybe, 100 statue heads atop posts of varying sizes. You enter the room to find them all staring in your direction - a bit creepy.

I recommend a trip to the Glyptothek for anyone with an appreciation of the classical world, an interest in art, or a love of architecture.
Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 8, 2012

Glyptothek
Königsplatz 3
Munich, Germany 80333
+49 89 286100

Cheer!
Flag

Christmas Eve & Day in Munich

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Englischer Garten Christmas Market Photo - Munich, Germany

Quote:

Every blog, discussion board and book I read said all the restaurants and attractions were closed Christmas Eve and Christmas Day in Munich. We nearly altered our plans because so many reviews said Munich was a ghost town these two days - I'm glad we didn't.Christmas EveShopping on Christmas Eve is crazy. The good news is that shops are open till around 2 PM, so you will be able to get those last minute gifts or food for your hotel room. The bad news is that everyone is doing the exact same thing - stores are packed and lines are long. Around 3 PM all stores are closed and the city shuts down - the perfect time for an afternoon architecture stroll.As we know, Eurp...Read More

Cheer!
Flag

IgoUgo

Munich Journals

Upload Photos