Munich - A City For Everyone - IgoUgo Munich Journal

Munich - A City For Everyone

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Towers of the Frauenkirch Photo - Munich, Germany

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I love Munich. Despite my age, I still travel with a backpack and stay in hostel dorms which makes Munich an ideal destination. Much of what I write is geared to the budget traveler (whether by necessity or frugality). I will not be recommending different tours (many of which are expensive), but rather talk about public transportation. I will not recommend hotels or expensive restaurants because I have not patronized them for over 40 years. I will talk about ways of budgeting time and resources allowing one to travel inexpensively as well as what can be called experientially. My goal in this writing is to convince readers that a trip to Europe need not be a one-time thing, but one in a series. My defi...Read More

I love Munich. Despite my age, I still travel with a backpack and stay in hostel dorms which makes Munich an ideal destination. Much of what I write is geared to the budget traveler (whether by necessity or frugality). I will not be recommending different tours (many of which are expensive), but rather talk about public transportation. I will not recommend hotels or expensive restaurants because I have not patronized them for over 40 years. I will talk about ways of budgeting time and resources allowing one to travel inexpensively as well as what can be called experientially. My goal in this writing is to convince readers that a trip to Europe need not be a one-time thing, but one in a series. My definition of a traveller is an explorer who doesn't have to get there first. A traveller is a person who goes to experience a culture not to just see some sights. A traveller is one is willing to devote more time to a country, it's heritage and it's people. Munich is a great place to start.

Like many German and other European cities, Munich is a city for wanderers. The churches and cathedrals are magnificent, the restaurants are varied and excellent, the palaces are extraordinary, the sights are memorable, the history is enthralling, and the people are wonderful. Also, the museums and art museums are among the best in the world. From hotels to hostels, accommodations for every budget are plentiful and necessary for the millions of tourists that visit each year. And, did I mention the beer, beer halls, and beer gardens? Let's not forget Fasching (Carnival), Octoberfest, and Christmas markets.

Munich is also an excellent "base city" for day trips to Bavarian locations such as Nuremberg, Regensburg, Augsburg, Oberammergau, Füssen (Neuschwanstein), Mittenwald and many others. It is also convenient to Tirolean ski destinations in the German and Austrian Alps as well as the Austrian cities of Salzburg and Innsbruck. There are numerous bus tours to local attractions as well easy transfer to "The Romantic Road" tours.

One can easily spend a month in Munich and not see everything. The three Pinakotheks (art museums) can easily take a full week to really appreciate. The "Deutsches Museum" is known as the oldest, largest and most interesting science and technical museum in the world.

Last thoughts. This is my "Do Not Miss" list and I will be writing about each in the future. They are: the Residenz, (especially the treasury), New City Hall and the Glockenspiel (the whole Marienplatz area), Frauenkirche, Peterskirche, Asamkirche, Heiliggeistkirche, Theatinerkirche, Victualiensmarkt, Pinakotheks (art museums), Nymphenburg Palace, Deutsches Museum, and other places.

There is something for everyone in Munich!

Quick Tips:

Munich is considered to be an expensive city. I find that it is the least expensive of cities it's size for tourists. Rent is expensive as are automobiles, some food products, and luxury items such as jewelry, famous maker clothing, etc. I don't find Munich to be exorbitantly expensive when it comes to tourism unless the tourist wishes to make it so and support all of the souvenir shops.

I stay in hostels. Why spend a lot of money for a room in which one will spend eight or nine hours? I usually eat one meal per day at a restaurant, and I frequent the local restaurants and not the "tourist catering places." This is not to say that the "tourist" places are not as good, they are just more expensive. One of my meals (either noon or evening), will consist of sandwiches and water or soda. I have an allergy to alcohol so wine and even alcohol-free beer can be problematic.

Munich has wonderful grocery stores right in the main train station (Hauptbahnhof), or across the street in the lower level of the department store. The breads and rolls are some of the best in the world and cold cuts are readily available. Soda and water can be purchased by the bottle at about one-half the price in machines.

From the main station to "Stachus" (Karlsplatz - Karl was not a favorite of the Müncheners) one will find lots of places for bakery, pastry, and other light foods or snacks. I usually spend about .50 for my small meal.

Learn the metric system of weights and measures before you leave. It is really simple. One kilogram (kg) is 2.2 pounds, which means that 250 grams (gm) equals slightly more than half a pound and 100gm equals almost a quarter pound. Simple.

Restaurant prices for local fare vary from very reasonable to very expensive. Personally, I try to find places that are recommended to me by people from the hostel or the TI. I ask for the places that "they" would go whether the menus were in English or not. I will write more tips about particular restaurants at a later time. What I will say is that I have NEVER been to a Munich restaurant where I was dissatisfied. Enjoy!

Websites:
http://www.toytowngermany.com/ (great - only in English)
www.muenchen.de/Rathaus/tourist_office
www.bayern.de/English/

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking is the best way to get around. As mentioned, it is truly a wanderer's city. Every time one turns a corner, there is something to see. The city has a large "pedestrian only" section. It is also flat and great for bicycles, of which there are many. Tourists need to be warned that when crossing the street to look, not only left or right, but also behind them on both sides. If one is able to hear the "tinkle, tinkle" of the little bicycle bell (warning system), it's already too late. Don't walk in bicycle lanes!

Public transportation.

Munich's excellent public transportation system consists local trains (which one finds at the Hauptbahnhof), trams, buses, and the U-bahn and S-bahn. The system is much the same as in most German cities. The city is divided into zones which are concentric circles radiating out from the city center. Fare prices increase by the number of zones one passes through.

There are multiple kinds of tickets available. First is the "single use ticket" which is exactly that, good for one ride in one direction. Next is the "Streiffenkarte" (strip card) available in 5, 10, or 15 strips. One punches the number of zones traveled, usually in multiples of two. Next is the "all day ticket" which can be a great savings if one is going to a lot of places in one day. The subway (U-Bahn) tickets are the same price. Also, if one wants an unguided tour of the city, take a round trip on tram 18 or 19.

The "Munich City Tour Card" includes all public transportation for a specific number of days and also includes discounts for museums, tours, etc. It replaces the "Munich Welcome Card" which is no longer available.

Some of the best transportation is by bicycle. Bikes are for rent at many city locations and is a good way to tour the city. Check "Mike's Bike Tours" when you arrive or at their website.

As previously mentioned, Munich is a city for walkers. The pedestrian zones allow for walking to be pretty care-free.

Walking allows a person to be an active participant in their own vacation. The ability to walk up and "touch" allows for a degree of knowing familiarity that would go unnoticed behind the windows of a bus. It takes only a little physical effort.

Have a wonderful time in this wonderful city.
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Easy Palace Hostel

Hotel | "One Of My Personal Favorite Hostels In All Europe"

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Munich is one of the best "base cities" anywhere in Europe. Franz Josef Strauss International Airport is just outside Munich with frequent and efficient train and S-Bahn transportation into the city. The Munich Hauptbahnhof has direct trains to almost anywhere in Germany, indeed, most of Europe. The city has one of the best U-Bahn (subway) and S-bahn (light rail servicing the suburbs) systems in the world. Austria and the Alps are close (you can see them on clear days), Regensburg, Augsburg, Nürnberg, and Stuttgart are all less than 2 hours by train. And, Munich is one of the safest cities in Europe.What could be better? How about a very inexpensive hostel (14.50 euros per night for an 8 ...Read More

Munich is one of the best "base cities" anywhere in Europe. Franz Josef Strauss International Airport is just outside Munich with frequent and efficient train and S-Bahn transportation into the city. The Munich Hauptbahnhof has direct trains to almost anywhere in Germany, indeed, most of Europe. The city has one of the best U-Bahn (subway) and S-bahn (light rail servicing the suburbs) systems in the world. Austria and the Alps are close (you can see them on clear days), Regensburg, Augsburg, Nürnberg, and Stuttgart are all less than 2 hours by train. And, Munich is one of the safest cities in Europe.

What could be better? How about a very inexpensive hostel (14.50 euros per night for an 8 bed dorm in Nov. 2008) large, clean rooms with clean ensuite toilet and bath/shower facilities, comfortable bunks, pre made-up beds, excellent breakfast in a restaurant next door (not included), small, but efficient elevator, small lockable lockers in each room for valuables (padlock needed), two guest lounges on the reception floor, small guest kitchen and lounge on the 4th floor, small bar with reasonable prices, internet and WiFi facilities, bus stop (#58) within 50 meters, U-bahn (U3 and U6) within 100 meters, and still within walking distance of the old city. Add to that a movie complex that is right on the corner and behind the McDonalds (that's right, a McDonalds right on your doorstep). Other amenities include a quiet, residential neighborhood location with an Aldi grocery store, drug stores, and numerous eating establishments close-by, and the Paulaner Brewery Gasthaus (top-notch Bavarian fare) within walking distance.

I have stayed at the Easy Palace multiple times. I have also stayed at most of the hostels close to the Hauptbahnhof and always go back to the Easy Palace. It is a third less expensive and the rooms are larger and very clean and the neighborhood is much more quiet and less seedy.

Getting there is simple: take bus #58 from the train station and get off at "Goetheplatz" (the announcement will sound like "gur-tah--platz"). Get off the bus and walk straight down Mozartstr. past the McDonalds to the hostel.

Last, the hostel staff is super, among the best I have met in Europe. Besides being among the most friendly, they are also very knowledgeable about the city and the best places to go (not necessarily the most popular, but still the best). I appreciate them more every time I stay there. "Thanks guys. You're the best!"

The only negative comment that I have heard about the EP is their "key" system. There is only 1 key to each room. As long as there is one person in the room, the key stays in the room. When the last person leaves, she/he turns-in the key to the desk. When guests return they ask if the key is at the desk or in the room. Some say that the system is inconvenient, but I am willing to put up with a little inconvenience if there are no keys running around Munich looking for thieves. It makes great sense and keeps the guests and their property more safe. This is a very safe hostel in all ways.

I think it's the best! Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 19, 2008

Easy Palace Hostel
Mozartstr. 4
Munich, Germany 80336

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Wombat

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Hotel | "Wombat's Hostel"

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Wombats Munich is one of the cleanest hostels I have found. Pros: The rooms and bathrooms are immaculate, the staff is friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. The beds are quite comfortable. It is located within a block of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) so coming and going is very convenient. All transportation is close by. Our two-person room was €70.00 per night, although some of the dorms are about €15.00 per night. There is a free walking tour of the city which leaves the hostel at 10:30 AM. It is quite a good tour.Cons: It is in a kind of seedy neighborhood. While it is not unsafe, some women have felt uncomfortable. My girlfriend said she would not stay there i...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 15, 2007

Wombat
Senefelderstraße 1
Munich, Germany D-80336
+49 89 5998 918-0

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Hofbrauhaus

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Restaurant | "Hofbräuhaus"

Just having a little beer and fun. Photo - Munich, Germany

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Historically, the Hofbräuhaus has been around for over 400 years. Originally the royal brewery (the name "Hofbräu" means "royal brewery"), the Hofbräuhaus has been in it's present location since 1607. There is a wonderful "time-line" history of the restaurant and brewery at the Hofbräuhaus website listed at the bottom of the page.I have read many reviews of the Hofbräuhaus over the years. Most were positive, but some were not. My reaction to negative remarks is, "If you don't like it, don't waste your time here and go somewhere that you enjoy." The Hofbräuhaus can be just as obnoxious as any other place that serves alcohol to a few million visitors per year. Basically, it's a lot of fun fo...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 20, 2007

Hofbrauhaus
Brauhausstrasse
Munich, Germany

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Bratwurstherzl

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Restaurant

Bratwurstherzl Photo - Bratwurstherzl, Munich, Germany

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This wonderful restaurant is located just behind the Victualiensmarkt at Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 1. Historically, the present building of this "Bratwursthaus" has been a gasthaus since 1633, and became the home of Bratwurstherzl in 1901. The current owner, Herr Walter Berringer, has 5 restaurants, this being the only one in Munich. The others are located in Nürnberg and all specialize in Nürnberg Bratwurst. These delicious finger-like sausages, made in the city after which they are named, are brought in daily from Nürnberg (if the sausage is not made in Nürnberg, it cannot be called "Nürnberger"). Freshly grilled over a beechwood fire, the sausages are served with a large helping of sauerkraut or potat...Read More

This wonderful restaurant is located just behind the Victualiensmarkt at Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 1. Historically, the present building of this "Bratwursthaus" has been a gasthaus since 1633, and became the home of Bratwurstherzl in 1901. The current owner, Herr Walter Berringer, has 5 restaurants, this being the only one in Munich. The others are located in Nürnberg and all specialize in Nürnberg Bratwurst. These delicious finger-like sausages, made in the city after which they are named, are brought in daily from Nürnberg (if the sausage is not made in Nürnberg, it cannot be called "Nürnberger"). Freshly grilled over a beechwood fire, the sausages are served with a large helping of sauerkraut or potato salad. You can order 6-8-10 or more with prices starting around €6.60 for six.

Bratwurstherzl is a Bavarian restaurant and looks it. From the outside the restaurant appears to be quite small, but there are a number of dining rooms, and it is larger than it looks. Upon entering, a feeling of "hominess" envelops the visitor like a warm blanket. The rustic brick walls with vaulted ceiling and arches throughout add to the intense but tranquil feeling of "gemütlichleit" (see below).

Although the specialty is Nürnberg Bratwurst, the full menu is not limited to bratwurst. Besides the usual Bavarian fare, because of the Nürnberg connection, there is a good range of Franken specialties (even though Nürnberg is in today's Bavaria, Nürnberger's still consider themselves Franconian). Anyway, salads, cheese plates, oxtail soup, potato soup, roast pork ("Schweinsbraten"), sauerbraten, turkey, pork, and veal schnitzels are all available and freshly made. The menu is quite extensive. Whatever one orders will be very good and the prices are reasonable (for those on the Euro standard).

The photograph of the dining room is typical of Bavarian dining rooms. They are very comfortable although sometimes a bit noisy. If you are looking for a super restaurant, filled with "gemütlichkeit" (see below) and great food, try Bratwurstherzl in Munich.

German Restaurants in General (especially Bavarian)

First, good local restaurants are everywhere. Ask at your hotel for a restaurant in the neighborhood that is very good, but not a tourist place. These are guaranteed to be better and less expensive than those restaurants that cater to tourists. After finding the recommended Gasthaus, just enter by the front door, and walk around and look for a table. It is customary to seat yourself. If there are no single tables to be had, find a table with enough empty chairs for however many you are, and ask if you may sit there, "Konnen wir bitte heir sitzen?" ("May we please sit here?"). Then wait till your server comes. He or she will usually ask what the diner(s) want to drink. The most common phraseology is, "Was zu trinken" or just "zu trinken." Most restaurants have two sizes of glasses of draught beer: "ein halbe" (half liter) or "ein kleines" ("quarter liter"). If you want a "pilsner" or "lager," "halbe" or "kleines" is all you have to say. "Dunkel" is the word for "dark" if you want a bock or double bock beer. If you want an English menu, ask for a "Speisekarte auf English, bitte." After you order, just sit back and relax with that good German beer or glass of wine, and look around the dining room. Mostly, you will see local people or at least German visitors. Try to ignore the smoke (it's everywhere) and relax in the lovely, and comfortable setting. There is even a word for it in the German language, "gemütlich," which means "comfortable or cozy," and "gemütlichkeit" is the word describing that feeling.

About waiters and waitresses. In most German restaurants the service staff is paid for being fast and efficient. I have read reviews that say the German wait staff are rude. From my years of experience, it is not rudeness but professional efficiency. Restaurant management wants the orders taken quickly and the meals served hot with as little distraction for the diners as possible. Management is not looking for quick table turn-around (you can stay as long as you like), just fast, efficient service. If you look like you have finished your meal, the wait staff will clear your plate. If you are not finished, just say, "noch nicht, bitte" (not yet, please).

Generally rolls and butter are NOT INCLUDED in the price of the meal. Just because they are on the table does not mean that they are free (you will have to request butter from your server). Both will appear on the check as will the nice big pretzels.

Another thing to remember is that in most German restaurants, the meal is served when it is ready. Meals for a group frequently do not come out of the kitchen at the same time. It's just the way it is. Also, your server will not bring the check until it is requested. Many's the American tourist who sits waiting for the check and thinking that the service is exceptionally slow. Meanwhile a waiter is wondering when the hell the party is going to ask for the check. All you have to do is to get the server's attention and say "Zahlen, bitte" ("pay please") or "Die Rechnung, bitte" ("the check please"). Taxes and tip are usually included. Look for the phrase on the bottom of the menu or check that says, "Alle Preise inklusive Bedienung und Steuern. Preise in Euro." which means "All prices include gratuity and tax. Prices are expressed in Euros." When the check is presented, it is customary, but not necessary, to "round up" to the next higher Euro. For example, if your check comes to €17.55, just say "eighteen," and the server will give you two euros back from a twenty euro bill. If your have received outstanding service you can certainly increase your tip, but give it directly to the server (just leaving it on the table will undoubtedly help the next diner pay for his meal).

Dining in German restaurants can be a wonderful experience. Some of the customs can be different from what you are used to, but just make it an "adventure." Look for the customs that make the dining experience different (like having the napkins and flatware in glasses in the center of the table). I sure that you will enjoy the experience.

Website:
http://www.die-nuernberger-bratwurst.de (in German only)
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 20, 2008

Bratwurstherzl
Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 1
Munich

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Marienplatz

Attraction | "Marienplatz - Where Munich Begins"

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FactsMarienplatz is the heart and heartbeat of Munich's old city. Much of the old city was badly damaged or destroyed during the allied bombings in 1944-45, and rebuilt following WWII. In that respect, the square is quite new, but it has a history as long as that of Munich, and was central to the Bavarian seat of power for almost nine centuries. The Wittelsbach dynasty's first palace, the "Alter Hof," is one block NE of the New City Hall. The square and its immediate environs appear to be part of the Middle Ages as well as part of the Renaissance. Italian influence can be seen in the Münzhof, (royal stables) as well in the main post office on Maximillianstrasse (which is also...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 17, 2007

Marienplatz
Marienplatz 8
Munich, Germany 80331

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Munich Residenz

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Attraction | "Residenz"

Residenz - Ceiling Art Photo - Munich Residenz, Munich, Germany

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The Residenz was the home and seat of power of the Wittelsbach family for over 700 years. Built in 1385 as a small, moated castle, the Residenz replaced the Alter Hof (near Marienplatz) as the Wittelsbach family residence and seat of government. During their 700 year reign, which lasted until 1918, they also built Nymphenberg Palace as a summer residence.Because the Wittelsbach's were in power for so many centuries, most of the periods are represented including Renaissance, Rococo, Neo-Classical, Baroque, etc.. The remarkable Antiquarium (Hall of Antiquities) is the largest secular Renaissance hall north of the Alps, and is on top of the list of highlights (other than the Schatzkammer). T...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 20, 2007

Munich Residenz
Max-joseph-platz 3
Munich, Germany 80539
49 (89) 290-671

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Schatzkammer der Residenz

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Attraction | "Schatzkammer der Residenz (Residenz Treasury)"

The crown of an English queen Photo - Munich, Germany

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If you like jewels and gold and things that glitter and sparkle, prepare to get your socks knocked off.Historically, the collection dates its origin from the will of Duke Albrecht V in 1565, which required the formation of an "unsaleable" collection. Under him and his successors, the collection grew through the centuries especially in the 18th century when the treasure of the Wittelsbach's of the Palatinate was transferred to Munich. Then, in 1803, a large amount of secular church property was confiscated (Roman Catholic for the most part), adding many more treasures. In addition to these secular pieces, the Residenz also has a collection of many liturgical relics (bones of various rulers,...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 17, 2008

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