Great Mosque and Muslim Quarter

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Tongdao Jie, Hohhot, China

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Muslim Quarter Photo - Great Mosque and Muslim Quarter, Hohhot, China

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A Bizarre Architectural Twist

by TianjinPaul

Rotherham, United Kingdom

March 6, 2010

Best of IgoUgo For the most part, Hohhot is not the most beautiful of China's cities. Much of the downtown area is comprised of slab-sided Communist-style buildings that give the city the rather dour feeling that accompanies many of China's smaller cities. There ...Read more For the most part, Hohhot is not the most beautiful of China's cities. Much of the downtown area is comprised of slab-sided Communist-style buildings that give the city the rather dour feeling that accompanies many of China's smaller cities. There are, however, a few exceptions to this rule that give the city a burst of colour and create a very unique atmosphere.

The majority of this colour comes in the west of the city. The buildings here are, in many ways, similar to those in the rest of Hohhot, and to those that can be seen in countless small cities across China. They are around six or seven storeys high, they are built from slightly-sub par concrete and have no subtlety or hints of sophistication whatsoever. However, despite their rather bland blockish style, they have been decorated in ways that truly grab the attention.

In the southwestern corner, the buildings have been adorned with traditional Mongolian themes and styles. For example, many of the roofs and walls are painted sky blue, to evoke the feeling of the blue skies that sweep over the Mongolian steppe and to mimic the style of ethnic Mongolian homes – many Mongolian families decorate the roof of their ger (circular tent) with blue fabric to symbolize the blue sky. Some of the smaller buildings also come topped with circular roofs similar to those of a ger. This makeover certainly worked well in transforming the rather dull suburban districts of Hohhot into a brighter architecturally fascinating area.

The traditional Mongolian style is impressive, but it does not hold a candle to the Muslim Quarter. When I first heard the term 'Muslim Quarter' I had images of places like old Istanbul with tiny interweaving streets and scores of minarets peaking above the skyline. However, in Hohhot nothing could have been further from the truth. Instead, the avenues were wide and the buildings were, again, blockish and imposing. However, just as in the 'Mongolian' area, they had been rather well decorated. The majority of the walls of the buildings were a light yellow and were adorned with spiralling green roofs. Even though, there was just one actual mosque, the buildings all gave the feel of being crowned by crowing minarets.

Sadly, there is none of the hustle and bustle that one would associate with the term Muslimn Quarter, and the whole area has a very sanitized and very Chinese feel. So, whilst the Muslim Quarter may be visually impressive, it is rather bland in terms of culture. However, there are several good restaurants serving spiced mutton and the architecture alone is certainly worth the visit.

The Muslim Quarter of Hohhot takes up the northwestern part of the city. The city has no subway, but taxis are frighteningly cheap. It would cost less than 10rmb to reach the Muslim Quarter from any other part of the city. Close

From journal Exploring the Milk Capital of Northern China

Wizardly and Wonderful

by TianjinPaul

Rotherham, United Kingdom

March 6, 2010

Best of IgoUgo In my experience, the term 'Grand Mosque', when used in China, almost always brings nothing but disappointment. I have visited at least five, and, on every occasion bar two I have left utterly underwhelmed and disappointed. The first of these visits ...Read more In my experience, the term 'Grand Mosque', when used in China, almost always brings nothing but disappointment. I have visited at least five, and, on every occasion bar two I have left utterly underwhelmed and disappointed.

The first of these visits took place in Yinchuan in 2006. We had travelled there to visit the Helen Shan mountains and the tombs of the Xia Dynasty. Whilst there we also stopped off at the town's Grand Mosque, which Lonely Planet trumpeted as "fabulous", but which proved to be far from grand. The second visit took place in my adopted home town of Tianjin, where the Grand Mosque was a rather modern and sterile building that looked more like an observatory than a place of worship.

The first time I left without being disappointed was when my friend Os and I visited the Grand Mosque in Hohhot. In terms of scale, "Grand" is not the right term as the mosque is actually pretty small – the minaret is less than 30m in height. However, even though the place is relatively tiny, it is exquisitely built and has an almost magical feel. The minaret and the other accompanying towers are all painted black and are edged with bright gold leaf. As these twist into the air, it gives the feeling of being home to wizards and witches rather than solemn worshippers. It certainly captured my attention, I could not help stare in amazement.

Whilst the minarets and towers are decked out in the wizardly black and gold, the lower parts of the mosque are covered with slightly more pious green tiles. There are also several screens and panels that are decorated in Arabic script that help to give the whole place a truly mysterious air. When we visited, it was almost deserted, which allowed us to wander around in solitude and to marvel at the stunning yet slightly bizarre architecture.

Entrance to the mosque was free and visitors are allowed to amble around the courtyard at leisure, although they must remain quiet and respectful. The mosque is located on the main thoroughfare of the Muslim Quarter and could easily be combined with a trip to that area and a traditional Muslim lunch. Close

From journal Exploring the Milk Capital of Northern China

Great Mosque and Muslim Quarter

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A Bizarre Architectural Twist

Wizardly and Wonderful