Zhaojun Tomb

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Hohhot, Inner Mongolia

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Sightseeing
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Prince and Princess Photo - Zhaojun Tomb, Hohhot, China

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Serenity in the Snow

by TianjinPaul

Rotherham, United Kingdom

March 6, 2010

Best of IgoUgo Eternally housed in the 40m mound of earth situated 9km from downtown Hohhot, Zhaojun was one China’s most famous ‘political’ brides. In 33 BC (during the Western Han Dynasty) Zhaojun was an ignored member of the Emperor Yuan’s harem. At the time, ...Read more Eternally housed in the 40m mound of earth situated 9km from downtown Hohhot, Zhaojun was one China’s most famous ‘political’ brides. In 33 BC (during the Western Han Dynasty) Zhaojun was an ignored member of the Emperor Yuan’s harem. At the time, the emperor was attempting to negotiate a treaty with the marauding Xiongnu tribe who were bust ravaging China’s northern extremities from the steppe – the area now known as Inner Mongolia. As part of the treaty the Khan of the Xiongnu demanded a Chinese princess from the emperor’s harem. Saddened at being ignored by the emperor, Zhaojun volunteered for the perilous one way mission. In so doing, she brought peace between the Chinese and the Xiongnu.

As beautiful as the above story may be, there is actually a deeper, slightly less savoury twist. In ancient times it was customary for imperial concubines – of which there would be many – to bribe the court artist to paint their likeness in a flattering light. This would help them to attract the emperor and thus gain political sway. However, Zhaojun was so confident in her own beauty that she refused to do this. It is, therefore, believed that the court painter added an unflattering mole to her portrait, which the emperor found repulsive. Because of this the emperor never visited her bed-chamber and was happy to allow her to marry the Khan.

Regardless of exactly how true the story is, the tomb itself is imposing. The 40m high mound is covered in small bushes and can be climbed via a bumpy path that slowly winds its way to the top, from where we could gaze either north, back to the confines of the city, or south, out across the grasslands that extend for hundreds of miles. When we visited Zhaojun the whole place was deserted, creating a wonderful sense of serenity, the only noise in our ears as we stared out into the wilderness being the howling of the biting steppe winds.

I believe we saw the tomb in its best light as we visited in the depths of winter. When we arrived we actually had trouble buying a ticket as the gatekeeper did not want to open his door to let the cold air inside. However, as we refused to go away, he eventually gave in and sold us the tickets that allowed us to explore the tomb. We were completely alone, which certainly helped build the air of serenity. I did, though, notice several closed souvenir stalls and fast food stands, which suggested a visit in the summer months would not bring such peace.

Zhaojun's tomb is a thirty minute drive to the south of the city. It costs around 100rmd to get there in a taxi and 35rmb to get in. Close

From journal Exploring the Milk Capital of Northern China

Zhaojun Tomb

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Serenity in the Snow