Sofia's night scene has developed a lot in the last several years. It offers something for every taste and budget, and lasts till 6am, or whenever people quit dancing. First off, a disclaimer: I'm not able to provide a comprehensive review of every place in…Read More

Sofia's night scene has developed a lot in the last several years. It offers something for every taste and budget, and lasts till 6am, or whenever people quit dancing.

First off, a disclaimer: I'm not able to provide a comprehensive review of every place in Sofia...owners, names, and locations change so frequently it's hard to establish a "must see" list...what follows is a list of my perennial favourites.

For a start, I would recommend the "Insiders' Guide" to Sofia, in English and French, available free at every hotel, or have a go at deciphering "programmata" or "7 days in Sofia", available everywhere, but only in BG (sorry!). For better directions, try www.bgmaps.com. Have fun!

I have divided the list into appropriate categories below, for your convenience:

1. Best place for pub grub: Sofia's rash of Irish pubs are a good place to start. J.P. Murphy's: Pozitano 16. A real Irish bar with real Irish beer and a cool atmosphere...last time I was there some British guy was playing Beatles songs. Not recommended if you don't like hanging out with expats. Also try Dublin Pub, the Irish Harp, and Flannagan's in the Radisson hotel, which on Wednesdays has a Mexican buffet plus all you can drink margaritas.

2. Best Beer Garden: My vote goes to Halbite (mugs): 6th Septemvri at Neofit Rilski St., which has Czech and BG beer on tap for cheap, great bar snacks, and cool staff and clientele. Located off a backstreet in the starving artist district. Other recommendations are Pri Kmeta (with the mayor), Birarija Schwelk, and Bitburger.

3. Moving on…laid-back bars are Sofia's strong point, and there are great places everywhere. For chill drinking I like Tri Ushi (three ears), tucked into a basement at Rakovski 6. Hambara (the barn) is filled with candles and By the Way has super-hip décor and great cocktails.

4. Best nightclub: aka best place to get laid in a public restroom: Newly opened Sin City on bul. Hristo Botev features four nightclubs with different music/themes in the same huge building. For better or worse, it's Sofia's most talked-about new venue. Hordes of pretty young things also frequent Briliantin, Chervilo (lipstick) and Lodkite (the boats), an outdoor disco in the Borisova Gradina.

5. Live music! Unless you speak Bulgarian, it's tough to get the word on what's going on, so try to ask around. My all-time favourite is the Swingin' hall on blvd. Dragan Cankov (across the canal from Graf Ignatiev St./tram no. 14), open late with two stages and an unpretentious and friendly clientele. Also try Backstage, with live music every night, club Maskata in Student's town.

7. Pop-folk. Dismissed by many Bulgarians as "trucker music", the "Chalga" generation is such a cultural force here that it must be mentioned. In short, big-breasted singers sing oriental-sounding techno-ish music about living and loving. Bulgarian girls cheer and dance provocatively. Try club Planeta on northern Blvd. Vitosha, or club BIAD for the ultimate chalga experience.

Embarrasing photos to come soon!

   Close

You should begin your walk at Saint Nedelja Church (Sveta Nedelja). Walk on in and take a look at the many frescos in the church. There is a tradition to light a candle in memory of someone close to you who passed away. (You…Read More

You should begin your walk at Saint Nedelja Church (Sveta Nedelja). Walk on in and take a look at the many frescos in the church. There is a tradition to light a candle in memory of someone close to you who passed away. (You don't have to be a religious person to do this - it is tradition!) Candles can be found at the entrance (Edna sveshta molja).

Behind the church, you will find an underground passageway (in front of the Sheraton Hotel) towards the Tzum complex. (A quick note: in the underground, you will find many artists and vendors - if you are into souvenirs, mark the spot - a wide array of reasonably priced gifts can be found here.)

In the underground you will find another church - Saint Petka Samarzhiiska with many frescos dating earlier than the ones at Sveta Nedelja.

After visiting Saint Petka Samarzhiiska walk towards the Banja Bashi Mosque. Please take your shoes off before you go in.

Across the street from the mosque is the Central Market(Halite) an indoor mall. From there walk to Ekzarch Iosef and visit the synagogue - the largest Sephardic Synagogue in Europe - it is a must see!

Walk back towards Saint Nedelja Church and there is another entrance to the "underground" (on the left in front of the Tzum complex), walk down the stairs. There you will find several buildings dating back to when Sofia was known as "Serdika."

Follow walkway to the right so that you will end up at the back end of the Sheraton (The Presidential Offices), make a right until you find an entrance to an open courtyard (left side). In the middle of this courtyard you will find Sofia's oldest church The "Saint George Rotunda." Larger than Saint Petka Samarzhiiska church, this church has been completely restored to its original beauty.

Walk back towards the Yellow brick road, make a right and follow this street towards the Alexander Nevski Cathedral. You will pass the National Theatre Park on the right. On the left you'll see the King's Palace. Further down, on the left - you'll see the Russian Orthodox church. As you continue the walk towards the Cathedral, you'll pass by a few embassies, The Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, the National Assembly.

Make a left between the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences and the National Assembly. You will then find on the right side, the Cathedral - you will find Sveta Sofia Church on your left - also worth a visit!

Find your way to Vasil Levski Blvd - take a right and walk until the tram racks (Graf Ignatiev Blvd). Make a right and follow it to the garden (on right) where you will find another church "St. Cyril and Methodius and their five disciples" with its recently restored frescos.

From there walk towards Rakovski Blvd., cross the street and take a look around the book vendors. There you can find books, maps, cds and more.

   Close

Melnik is a mostly forgotten town in the southwest corner of Bulgaria. With a stay in Sandanski, it makes for a good weekend journey or--from Sofia--a longish day trip. The town was built amongst rock crags and is well-known for its wine. Order from a…Read More

Melnik is a mostly forgotten town in the southwest corner of Bulgaria. With a stay in Sandanski, it makes for a good weekend journey or--from Sofia--a longish day trip. The town was built amongst rock crags and is well-known for its wine. Order from a local restaurant and the owner will dip a pitcher into a big wooden barrel. Be sure to have a translator with you since English is almost impossible here The city offers interesting architecture and Byzantine ruins that are practically void of tourists. A part of your day must include a trip to the desolate Rozhen Monastery, one of scores of monasteries around the country.

When I visited, one Eastern Orthodox priest lives in the sprawling building and we had plenty of time to look in the chapel, the Monk's cells, and around the grounds. Equally inspiring is the view from the hill top. You'll notice farmers tending their sheep or hauling crops into town. In late summer, watch for farm wives and old men preserving gorgeous red peppers by grilling them on outdoor fires. Bring your camera.

   Close

If you're walking around Sofia, you'll probably notice a number of Sofians stooping on sidewalks, reaching to their ankles with one hand, holding their backs in pain with the other. It's not a cultural oddity, but merely the legacy of Sofia's first stab at entering…Read More

If you're walking around Sofia, you'll probably notice a number of Sofians stooping on sidewalks, reaching to their ankles with one hand, holding their backs in pain with the other. It's not a cultural oddity, but merely the legacy of Sofia's first stab at entering the free-market world. Shortly after communism fell, the first store fronts to open were done in a quick, cheap manner--converting empty basements into small stands selling candy bars, banitsa pastries, beer, wine, gum, and newspapers. Called "klek" locally, or "squat shop," these are still all over Sofia--and likely a place you'll need to stop by for a water. Some day they're likely to be replaced on this less masochistic storefronts, which have increasingly been converted from old gray housing blocks into all-glass boutiques and pizza parlors. Long live the klek!
   Close

The "Sofia City Guide" is an info guide with useful information about the city. In fact, it is a small travel guide for the city itself, covering all the major "Highlights". Every month there is a new edition, so the information is very up to…Read More

The "Sofia City Guide" is an info guide with useful information about the city. In fact, it is a small travel guide for the city itself, covering all the major "Highlights". Every month there is a new edition, so the information is very up to date. It also covers the festivals and important happenings that month.

The printed version can be found in every major Hotel in the town.

If you want to prepare yourself before, there is also a website giving the same information, plus some more. The website can be found at:
http://www.sofiacityguide.com

   Close

When you are ready to go from the airport to the centre/ hotel you will find many private drivers offering to take you to your final destination. Prices can be up to 20 lev (airport-centre). If you walk 100M to the right, you will find…Read More

When you are ready to go from the airport to the centre/ hotel you will find many private drivers offering to take you to your final destination. Prices can be up to 20 lev (airport-centre). If you walk 100M to the right, you will find the departure hall. Here it is easy to catch a regular cab, which will cost you around 3 lev (airport-centre). The alternative is always the bus, which will bring you for 40 stotinki (80 stotinki if you are traveling with large bags!). Tickets can be bought at the small office next to the bus-stop.   Close

The best place to relax and just 10 minutes away from the city. Soon we will add a lot more. …Read More

The best place to relax and just 10 minutes away from the city. Soon we will add a lot more.    Close

Taste one, it is good. They have different varieties, but the one with feta cheese is the best. The spinach one is also worth trying..…Read More

Taste one, it is good. They have different varieties, but the one with feta cheese is the best. The spinach one is also worth trying..   Close

A quick way to find your place to stay in Sofia can be found at the following web page: http://www.sofiahotels.net/ Maybe not that interesting for the regular traveler, but to find a hotel in advance for the night of arrival can be verry convenient. See…Read More

A quick way to find your place to stay in Sofia can be found at the following web page: http://www.sofiahotels.net/ Maybe not that interesting for the regular traveler, but to find a hotel in advance for the night of arrival can be verry convenient. See also my entry on the Gannesha hotel as one of my reccomended places to stay.   Close