Mexico City is a metropolis that is really worth a trip. My visit to this town is now a few years ago but the memory of it is still very much alive. Just last week I met with my friends in Mexico. Very interesting that…Read More

Mexico City is a metropolis that is really worth a trip. My visit to this town is now a few years ago but the memory of it is still very much alive. Just last week I met with my friends in Mexico. Very interesting that both the negative and positive aspects of this city have remained the same.
México has approximately 25 million people (nobody knows the exact number) and is giant.

First the negative and that’s the air. Air pollution in Mexico City is extreme. The International Council on Clean Transportation (ICCT) reported that 4,000 of the citizens of Mexico City alone die every year because of high air pollution. According to other reports a day in Mexico City is as harmful as smoking 2 packs of cigarettes. A phenomenon for me that I was in the morning, freshly showered, washed and went sightseeing. In the evening a layer of dirt was on my face. 4 million cars, 100,000 taxis, 28,000 buses and x-thousands of trucks pollute the air, not to mention the companies with lax environmental regulations in Mexico City altogether.

Mexico City was up to the economic boom in China due to high sulfur dioxide and carbon monoxide concentrations as a polluted city in the world. These titles are now held Chinese cities, but Mexico City is still fifth in the top. certainly a great disadvantage of this city.

The positive and that’s the people. I like the Mexicans. A generally friendly, open nation. Among all Hispanics, they also have in addition to the Argentinians definitely the most culture. Also the museums are a big plus. The National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec Park is very fascinating. The archaeological collections are one of the most impressive I have ever seen. The park itself is also interesting. We got there very easily in contact with Mexicans and had lots of fun.

Museo Nacional de Arte. As the name implies, the Museum of Mexican Art from the 16th Century until the 1950s. Interesting but in retrospect not a "must". This is, however, the Zocalo, the main square. When we were there just a demonstration was over. The place with the baroque cathedral of Mexico City is huge. The Zocalo is surrounded by interesting buildings - just by the impressive cathedral, the Palacio Municipal (City Palace) in 1720 and the "Palacio Nacional" (National Palace), the official residence of the President.

The "floating gardens" of Xochimilco are also a must for me. This is the Hauptausflugsort for the residents of the city. To go on a boat is an easy experience. It is a very funny one who comes to meet there, couples, mariachi groups and traders in boats propelled. The nearby market is also interesting but the highlight for me was to market the witches market. Warned against the witches market all of us - it was dangerous for foreigners, etc. (basically we felt in Mexico City never compromised, neither day nor night, just a money bag was stolen from us in the subway).

Briefly to the nightlife - we got a lot of time with no, we were quite done in the evening. We went first ever swimming (the hotel had a pool with views over the city), what to drink and then comfortably off. Accidentally a wilder bar was there when we were running around at random, but mostly we were in the Zona Rosa, the entertainment zone of the rich. Because nothing can happen but as I said even otherwise we felt in Mexico City never threatened.

Back to the market. On the market you can buy all sorts of occult subjects, from the skull to herbs for (of course) but also the power of all sorts of animals. Sensational!

Still a must - Plaza Garibaldi. In the square there are dozens of mariachi bands who can give her the best. To let a band play in itself is not expensive and very amusing. We have the tape first song after song of their choice (it was a tearjerker) and then La Chucharacha (sorry just had to be) can play.
In total, the city gets 4 stars from me, a brilliant city but one star deduction for the air pollution. In my case this led to a near collapse on the last day. The bad air was spoiled Austrian mountain air my lungs in the long run too much.

Something about safety - in general I felt very safe in Mexico City - must be avoided, however, some quarters and pickpocketing is rampant. In this respect I here forgive a moderately - but what should not keep you from a trip!
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... with the same ingredients but with a twist.Tacos are made with tortillas rolled or folded around something, with quesadillas you put the raw dough of the tortilla and then put something inside, then fold, and then fry it. A variation would have the lady…Read More

... with the same ingredients but with a twist.

Tacos are made with tortillas rolled or folded around something, with quesadillas you put the raw dough of the tortilla and then put something inside, then fold, and then fry it. A variation would have the lady making special tortillas, a bit ticker, on the spot and then stuff them.

But another difference from tacos is the ingredients you put inside, traditionally you have meltable cheese (Oaxaca and asadero are the most common) and a variety of already cooked items that could be a main dish by their own, like chicken, chicharron, mushrooms, squash flower (Flor de Calabaza), corn fungus (huitlacoche, a delicacy in Mexican tables only available on the rainy season), cow brains (sesos), and lots more.

Quesadillas are made on the spot, so you will always have a freshly made one. As most of the food, you need to eat it while still hot, after an hour it won´t taste the same and the texture will definitively be lost, no microwave oven or Granny tricks will help in this department, if you don´t have your quesadilla on the spot you miss part of the experience.

One fact that may surprise you, is that normally there is only one lady (men are bad for shaping the quesadillas) preparing the quesadillas. Even on a very crowded food stand, the lady may have some help on other areas, but cooking is Her position. And they can have orders of 20 or 40 in a matter of a short time, so you need to be patient, this is not a McD (fortunatley) where food is made fast, true it´s junk food but more tasty.   Close

Mole is widely known for being the spicy sauce with chocolate. That is true but partially as there are many kinds of mole. Mole is the generic name for the thick salsa made with a lot of ingredients, it would be the equivalent of curry…Read More

Mole is widely known for being the spicy sauce with chocolate. That is true but partially as there are many kinds of mole. Mole is the generic name for the thick salsa made with a lot of ingredients, it would be the equivalent of curry in Indian gastronomy.

In this particular case I´m showing you the one that goes with traditional Enchiladas de mole. This one is dark brown with tints of reddish. Depending on the recipe there can be as much as 8 to 10 different varieties of chiles, ranging from pasilla, morita, ancho, etc., it all depends on the region the mole is from, which ones are more easily available, and of course affordable. You also have chocolate of course, but don´t think you will be pouring MilkyWays and M&Ms, the true chocolate has very little sugar; you also have platano macho (plantain) as a great addition to the flavor and consistency of the sauce, you fry it and the mash into a paste before adding it to the mix.

The mole is not exactly an everyday dish in small towns, it is festive food for the gib occasions, like a wedding or to celebrate the birth of a son, on those days it would be Mole with Guajolote (the local turkey) which is tastier and more expensive than with chicken.

Now with modern transport and economy is easier and cheaper to get the ingredients and so you can have a plate of enchiladas de mole on an everyday basis available for any small restaurant.

The mildness or hotness of the mole depends on the recipe and the cook. Normally mole negro is not that hot, it may rank in the middle of the scale or lower, but if you find it too spicy for your taste you are advised to sprinkle some sugar.

Buen provecho.   Close

This is the most typical and a little exotic staple you will find in most of the places you visit in Mexico. The origin is not Aztec, though.In any little town you will find a taqueria offering Tacos al Pastor, you will notice immediately as…Read More

This is the most typical and a little exotic staple you will find in most of the places you visit in Mexico. The origin is not Aztec, though.

In any little town you will find a taqueria offering Tacos al Pastor, you will notice immediately as they put the vertical rotisserie at the entrance of the restaurant to attract the clientele.

Traditionally the rotisserie would be layered with charcoal brickets, and that heat is responsible for slow-cooking the meat. Nowadays the use of gas and refractory bricks is necessary due to the volume of tacos needed. The meat is usually marinated pork, with the achiote paste one of the main ingredients, which gives the meat an orange-redish look, but it depends solely on the cook preparing the meat. The meat rotates slowly and as each section is cooked the "taquero" will slice a thin portion out of the "trompo" (stack of meat) and put it on the tortilla.

A little bit back in time for the origins of this Mexican specialty. In the end of the 19th century a family from Lebanon came to Mexico and brought their Kebab style tradition, here after many many years and cooks the recipe was transformed from lamb meat to pork, and adding the achiote marinade and topping the transformation with a chunk of fresh pineapple at the top of the rotisserie to add a touch of tropical flavor, another Mexicanization of the long almost-forgotten recipe (if you want the original one, try the Tacos Arabes, no marinade no pineapple).

Pineapple? You would ask, well, yes, its flavor combines very well and its sweetness will balance the fieriness of the hot salsa you will have your taco smeared with. Some skilled taqueros will flip the pineapple on the tortilla with a flip of the wrist making it a show like the Japanese Teriyaki chefs.

One special note: in Mexico we put Limón (lime for you) in almost all of our food, its acid flavor will merge so nicely with the meat that you will wonder why you don´t have this at home daily!!!

Another special note: Salsas. This is a topic not to be missed, in Mexico salsas are usually hot and very spicy no matter what the guy in the next table tells you, or if the cook says it´s mild, NEVER believe them. First you should put A drop in your food to measure the hotness of the salsa. The color has nothing to do, nor the size of the chile peppers, there are some red ones so small that they look like toy chiles, but are really powerful. In a good taqueria you will have at least two different kinds of salsas: roja (red) y verde (green), the color depends on which chiles were used. If you only find one kind of salsa it means that you arrived very late and the favorite of the clientele is gone or you got a so-so taqueria. Some places carry the salsa verde con aguacate (avocado) but don´t think that it will be safe because you like guacamole, it can be as fierce as the other salsas.

Remember, always try a drop of each salsa before putting a spoon full of it in your taco. Buen provecho.

Ok so there are like a million taxis in this city...no really. I'd say that 98 per cent of them are totally safe. That leaves about 20,000 not so safe cabs around. Really it all depends on the money you are willing…Read More

Ok so there are like a million taxis in this city...no really. I'd say that 98 per cent of them are totally safe. That leaves about 20,000 not so safe cabs around. Really it all depends on the money you are willing to spend/lose. There are taxi cab companies, TaxiMex for example, that you can even get a receipt for tax purposes after you pay with your credit card, that are honestly not that expensive by first world standards. I took one such cab half way across the city one night (about a 35 minute drive, no traffic) and it cost about 80 pesos. This is cheaper than a cab off the street late at night...which is the dangerous time. I have done that as well, and I have also refused cabs after a quick glance inside. There should ALWAYS be a taxi meter. It is always better if it is in use say "Taximetro" and if he nods his head it's gonna be a good deal. Other things. Don't get a ratty looking cab. Make sure to check that there is the cab drivers id clearly posted, and that the guys face is the same as the guy driving the care. If for whatever reason, your intuition is telling you something is wrong on the ride. DON'T PANIC. Calmly tell the man "Aqui, esta bien" and he should pull over right then and let you out. You can get another cab. Taxi stand cabs (Sitio) are generally safe, reliable, and only a bit more expensive. I use cabs whenever I can afford them. At night they are the fastest and sometimes only way to get around town. The Metro closes early. 12 midnight.   Close

After breakfast atop the hostel's rooftop terrace, we took the Metro to Terminal del Norte to catch an early bus to Teotihuacan more commonly known as Las Piramides. About an hour later, we were outside Mexico City. The driver packed his vehicle in with passengers,…Read More

After breakfast atop the hostel's rooftop terrace, we took the Metro to Terminal del Norte to catch an early bus to Teotihuacan more commonly known as Las Piramides. About an hour later, we were outside Mexico City. The driver packed his vehicle in with passengers, making frequent stops at what appeared to be random places.

Teotihuacan is a remarkable site--a window looking onto an ancient civilization whose true identity no one knows for sure. There are three main areas: Ciudadela, Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. They are all connected by the four-km. Avenue of the Dead.

The Pyramid of the Sun covers almost the same amount of space as the Great Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt. At the spring equinox on March 21, the sun is perfectly aligned with the west face of the pyramid. We climbed the steep steps to reach the summit and take in the view of the entire site. The Pyramid of the Moon is only half the size of Pyramid of the Sun, but the first level of this pyramid provides the best view of the Avenue of the Dead. Both are challenging climbs, especially with the heat of the midday sun.

There are a few more temples along the Avenue of the Dead. Note the Jaguar Temple where there is an unearthed mural of a jaguar. The Tetitla and the Atetelco temples have frescoes and paintings of ancient symbols and markings.

We were at the site during the hottest part of the day and there were a lot of tourists. So try to catch the earliest bus at 8am to avoid the crowds. We exited from the back and waited by the side of the road for any bus that would take us back to the city. We discovered a tent food shack around the bend and ate our first flor de calabaza and championes tortillas, squash flower, and mushrooms. Flor de calabaza would soon be a part of our regular fare in Oaxaca.

I had read on cnn.com that mariachi policemen were one of the city's gimmicks to make the place a little friendlier: mix a little culture with the law and even residents will appreciate the effort. I asked if I could take a photo with them and they happily obliged. Most law officers around the city, especially the ones stationed near the Palacio Nacional don't entertain such requests.

Back at the Zocalo, we ate tamales while watching street performers at the plaza. For dinner, we splurged and had Argentinian steak with some deadly sangrias at Las Esquina del Pibe on the corner of Bolivar and Uruguay. It was a great way to close out this first chapter in Mexico City. We look forward to being in a whole different world tomorrow morning.

Stops:

Terminal del Norte
Via Metro Linea 1 or pink line San Lazaro stop. Bus ticket is P21 each. Go to Gate 8 and you will either the sign Teotihuacan or Piramides. The ride is about an hour outside Mexico City.

Zona Arqueologia de Teotihuacan
Entrance tickets are P35 each. You will need at least two hours to walk around the pyramids, more if you're climbing both the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon.

Las Esquina del Pibe
The corner of Bolivar and Uruguay. Our Argentinian steak for two people cost us about $50 with soup and salad. They accept Visa and MasterCard. You will notice how more expensive restaurants treat their customers a little bit better.    Close

Our first morning in Mexico City was pretty busy. Our itinerary still had gaps that had to be filled. We booked a Oaxaca van through Mexbus online while still in New York City, but they cancelled the last minute. So at 8am we took our…Read More

Our first morning in Mexico City was pretty busy. Our itinerary still had gaps that had to be filled. We booked a Oaxaca van through Mexbus online while still in New York City, but they cancelled the last minute. So at 8am we took our first Metro ride to the TAPO terminal to buy tickets to Oaxaca. There are no buses running on Christmas Day so we settled for 11:30pm tickets on December 26. We picked the first class UNO bus which cost us about $45 each one way.

Back at the Zocalo we decided to visit the Palacio Nacional, which houses various government departments. The National Palace takes up the whole eastern side of the Zocalo and it has the facade of tezontle, a red volcanic stone. Once you step inside, it's like a whole different place. The noise outside is blocked out and everything is serene. Most of the walls are decorated with Diego Rivera's murals but the staircase leading up to the first floor has the most impressive, known either as the La Gran Tenochtitlan or the El mercado de Tlatelolco. The central panel depicts the history of Mexico from 1521 to 1930. The right side shows pre-Hispanic Mexico while the left shows El mundo de hoy y de manana, The World Today and Tomorrow.

Since most places were closed, we just went back to the hostel and idly passed the afternoon by drinking beers and having our first sample of the local firewater: mezcal. We decided to skip the free Christmas Eve dinner provided by the hostel and finding dinner became a challenge. We walked around a lot looking for places that were open. We found Aguas Frescas which had excellent tortas and fruit juices. Tortas are like Cuban sandwiches, with buns pressed and grilled, only better. They put all kinds of stuff in there, avocadoes, onions, bell peppers, cheese, and eggs with either your beef or chicken. Right next to Aguas Frescas was a rotisserie called Molino's. We bought half a grilled chicken to eat later after midnight.

We went to the Cathedral at 11:30pm but to our chagrin, we had misunderstood the time and watched as people filed out of the church. We stood in the middle of the Zocalo where the giant Christmas tree was and greeted each other Merry Christmas right there instead. We went back to our room and devoured the pollo ranchero with some wine to celebrate my birthday. I received my present and given our surroundings, I couldn't have been happier with our noche buena.

Stops:

Palacio Nacional
Open everyday for free. You have to leave an I.D. with the guards.

Aguas Frescas
Cinco de Mayo Avenue and Rep de Chile.
A Torta Combinar, meaning everything they've got, is worth every penny. Try their melon ice drink. The Torta Cubano is also excellent. Two tortas and a drink cost us P69. Try looking for a very good sandwich in New York City that's $7.

Molino's
Half a pollo ranchero, grilled chicken, was P21.50. The price made me so happy I wanted to laugh.   Close

Flying into Mexico's Juarez airport is strikingly familiar, like flying into the Philippines' Ninoy Aquino international airport. The crowds are overwhelming. Family members seem to arrive by the busload to greet their respective arrivals from the United States. The security guards futilely try to impose…Read More

Flying into Mexico's Juarez airport is strikingly familiar, like flying into the Philippines' Ninoy Aquino international airport. The crowds are overwhelming. Family members seem to arrive by the busload to greet their respective arrivals from the United States. The security guards futilely try to impose rules--to not go beyond a certain line--but as soon as they turn around, everybody's pushing against the gate again.

We went through a fairly brisk immigration and customs process. We made sure to hold onto our tourist/exit cards as failure to present these at departure time would result in stiff fines. There are several currency exchanges and authorized taxi stands inside the airport. Expect to be approached by middlemen who will insist on showing you the way. We fell victim to one of them and we had to tip him after he walked us outside to where the cabs were.

There are two kinds of cab: a yellow and white SUV for P280 (right outside) and a green and white beetle for P180 (climb some stairs and cross the highway overpass). Some guidebooks warn you about cases of robbery in VWs. In spite of this, we picked this ride and were driven to the Zocalo, the main plaza, without any problems other than the occasional stomach-turning change of lane. Urban taxistas, no matter where you are, apparently all learned how to drive from the same school.

Twenty minutes and P200 later, we were in Hostal Moneda on Calle Moneda, where we would stay for the next three nights. Our double room was fairly clean by hostel standards but we did bring extra sheets just in case. They ran out of hot water a couple of times but their facilities, including a payphone in the lobby, proved to be very convenient and useful throughout our stay. The staff is extremely helpful and they will help you practice your Spanish.

After settling in, it was time to check out the Z?o. You don't really know what a flea market is until you experience Mexico City's Zocalo. There are vendors occupying every last square foot of space, hawking various wares and screaming out different prices. Clothes, jewelry, toys, random knick-knacks, and of course, food: tacos, tamales, cotton candy, corn, juice, and all kinds of drinks. Woven beanies and gloves go for up to P30. I bought a hat that would come in handy at night and during the early morning.

We visited the Metropolitano Cathedral, which is the largest and oldest cathedral in Latin America. It was first built in 1525 and is continuously going through renovations. The other half, Sagrario Metropolitano, is more stable, as it was built on the remains of an Aztec pyramid.

Our first meal came from a Ricos Tacos food stand--bistek taco and a limonata drink. Green and red salsas and limes are available as condiments. For P7 it wasn't a bad way to get a quick snack. We'd continuously return to these stands throughout the trip though prices seemed to vary by the vendors' moods. We will soon eat as many as four a day, excluding our other more complete meals. As with New York dirty-water hot dogs we obeyed the adage that it has to be good if it looks dirty. For dinner, we walked to Cafe Tacuba. The tacos had whetted our appetites for Mexican food. We enjoyed our first taste of mole and the house special enchiladas. Mariachis made the rounds of the restaurant as we sipped our Dos Equis beers.

We finished our first night off by walking around the Zocalo. Kids are jumping up and down, reaching for wisps of cotton candy that stray from the machines stationed around the plaza. Incandescent bulbs light up the area. The whirring and humming of the power generators are constant in the background. Some vendors are already starting to pack up their wares. Many vendors come into the city from outerlying villages. So under makeshift houses built from foundations of boxed goods and roofs of plastic tarpaulin, vendors and their families would call it a night and start again as early as 8am the next morning.

Stops:

MEX - Benito Juarez Airport
Mexico City International Airport is located eight miles east of the historical city center.

Exchange Rate
As of 12/23/02, US$1 = P10
Mexican money also uses the $ symbol but call it Pesos. To avoid confusion, P will be used here as Pesos and $ will stand for US$.

Hostal Moneda
Calle de Moneda #8
Centro Historico 06020
Phone: (52-55) 55 22 58 21
E-mail: info@hostalmoneda.com.mx
Web: www.hostalmoneda.com.mx/
P150 per night/per person for a private double room with a P100 deposit each person. Check-in time is 11am. Check-out is 1pm. Facilities: TV room, Internet room (about P10 for thirty minutes), kitchen, cafe, bar and the roof terrace. Free breakfast from 8 to 10am.

Phone Cards
Ladatel sells phone cards for P30 to P80. To call anywhere in the United States, dial 001 + area code + number.

Metropolitano Cathedral
Open daily. No flash photography.

Cafe Tacuba
Tacuba 28 near Calle 20 de Noviembre. I was reading Sandra Cisneros' new novel, Caramelo, while traveling and she even recommended the restaurant in one of the chapters. Our meal cost about $25.    Close

It is a pleasant around 4-km stroll from San Ángel to Coyoacán. Both of these colonias were once colonial towns to the south of Mexico City but both have been swallowed whole by the rapid growth of this metropolis during the twentieth century. However, the…Read More

It is a pleasant around 4-km stroll from San Ángel to Coyoacán. Both of these colonias were once colonial towns to the south of Mexico City but both have been swallowed whole by the rapid growth of this metropolis during the twentieth century. However, the colonial hearts of these towns survived with pleasant parks, narrow cobblestone streets, and many colonial style buildings in excellent state of repair.Both colonias are affluent, with property prices in San Ángel particularly high. From the outside, many buildings look rather ordinary but as is often the case in Mexico the real treasures are only revealed when the gates are opened and one is let into the amazing courtyards. Unfortunately, in these neighborhoods this is by invitation only.From San Ángel, cross Revolution, one of the largest arteries in the city. On the east side of the street is the Museo del Carmen with three lovely domes covered with Talavera tiles from Puebla—these are the emblem of San Ángel. The former monastery now houses a museum with colonial furniture and art. The original architecture of the monastery is mostly preserved. The interior of the church is not surprisingly Baroque but generally not as over the top Churrigueresque (aka Ultra Baroque) as is often the case in Mexico. Notice all the blue and white Talevera tiles on the bottom parts of walls as well as mostly yellow motives on altars.From here stroll down La Paz and cross the busy Avenida Insurgentes—the longest street in Latin America. (It literally runs straight through Mexico City on a north-south axis.) On the east is a typical Mexican park with many trees, paved walkways, iron benches, and fenced-off open spaces. The main interest here is the huge, stark monument erected in honor of General Álvero Obregón. He was assassinated nearby in 1928, shortly before he could start his second term as Mexican president. It is a steep walk reminiscent of climbing Aztec pyramids to enter the building. A large statue of the one-armed assassinated President dominates the small space. Look down to see the concrete floor with bullet marks from the assassin’s gun—don’t confuse the easier to see coins that were dropped on the glass cover with the harder to spot bullet marks. It is possible to go down to the lower level for a closer view. On this lower level is also a bronze copy of the arm Obregón lost at the battle of Celaya. For years the real arm was on display but it presumably deteriorated to such an extent that it had to be replaced by the bronze one.Stroll down Miguel Ángel and cross diagonally through the Park Tagle to Arenal. Continue to Universidad where the small, red-colored chapel of San Antonio Panzacola can be seen. Cross the small river via the stone bridge and enter Avenida Francisco Sosa, one of the loveliest colonial streets in Mexico. It is tree-lined and has numerous colonial-era buildings in mostly excellent states of repair. Note the Casa de Sol where Caranza wrote the drafts of the Mexican constitution. Further down the street note the copy of a Tula Atlante in front of No 319. The house was for rent when we passed by—the use of the Atlante is presumably included in the rent.The street, in total around a mile long, continues straight into Coyoacán and terminates at Jardín Centenario with its characteristic yellow gates. Just before the park is the very pleasant Moheli Cafetería y Delicatessen.   Close

Coyoacán is an affluent suburb with fame and influence that far exceed the colonias boundaries. It is a leafy suburb with quiet, tree-lined streets yet the center is lively with typical markets and frequent cultural festivals on the numerous plazas. International brands are still far…Read More

Coyoacán is an affluent suburb with fame and influence that far exceed the colonias boundaries. It is a leafy suburb with quiet, tree-lined streets yet the center is lively with typical markets and frequent cultural festivals on the numerous plazas. International brands are still far and few between here with many shops and restaurants seemingly unchanged for decades. It is a popular place with local and foreign visitors alike. Weekends the plazas and restaurants at the center are particularly popular.Coyoacán has been a favored place to live ever since the Spanish arrived and defeated the Aztecs of Tenochtitlan, the present-day Mexican City. Back then, coyotes, after which the town was mentioned, presumably still roamed the area. Several nobles had residences here and the then small town was a popular retreat. La Malinche, the Indian translator and mistress of Hernan Cortés had a palace here. Frieda Kahlo lived here and her famous blue house is now the very popular Frieda Kahlo Museum.Leon Trotsky lived nearby and the fortified house where he was killed in 1940 is worth seeing. Bullet marks, from when his house came under machine gun fire for around twenty minutes can still be seen on the exterior walls. We visited the museum around a decade ago and it was really fascinating. Volunteers, true-blue Trotskyites dressed to the Communist nines in black uniform work at the museum. At the end of our visit, I asked my wife to enquire from one volunteer, who seemed around thirty-years old, what happened to the ice pick that was used to kill Trotsky. The guy came alive and took us on a second round of the house. Pointing out photos and describing details from how Trotsky had his coat over the arm at this occasion and what hat he wore on that. Regrettably, my Spanish at that stage was rather limited and my wife clearly skimped on the translation. Trotsky may have been killed but for some he is still very much alive. If memory serves, the ice pick was never actually found.The heart of Coyoacán is decidedly less violent. As is often the case in Mexico, the church is at the center. The Iglesia de San Juan Bautista partly dates from the sixteenth century but has been altered much through the centuries. It is a hall church with a rich Baroque interior but surprisingly no major side chapels. Large public spaces are in the immediate vicinity and at least on weekends completely taken over by markets. Merchandise range from books to hand crafts and traditional sweets. Balloons are perennial favorites and paint-on tattoos can be done on many stands. The artists seem skillful and worked at amazing speed—clearly they are paid per job rather than time needed to complete a tattoo.At the rear of the church, follow Higuera. The street is initially rather drab but things improve after a block when the greenery of Plaza de la Conchita becomes visible. The park is one of the loveliest spots in Coyoacán and can be an oasis of calm even when the nearby Plaza Hidalgo and Jardín Centenario next to the church are packed with throngs of visitors. At the corner is the palace of La Malinche, although it was probably built for another Indian noble rather than for Cortés’s mistress. Inside the park is a small chapel. Although it is in serious need of some restoration work, the reliefs on the façade still impress. Behind the plaza is a park dedicated to the memory of Frieda Kahlo with a small statue of Mexico’s most famous female painter.One of the loveliest streets in Mexico is Avenida Francisco Sosa that lead from Coyoacán to San Ángel—it is worth strolling down this street even if not going all the way to San Ángel. It starts behind the yellow gates of Jardín Centenario—Moheli Cafetería y Delicatessen is at the corner.   Close