Mexico City Stories and Tips

Strolling from San Ángel to Coyoacán

San Ángel Photo - Mexico City, Mexico

It is a pleasant around 4-km stroll from San Ángel to Coyoacán. Both of these colonias were once colonial towns to the south of Mexico City but both have been swallowed whole by the rapid growth of this metropolis during the twentieth century. However, the colonial hearts of these towns survived with pleasant parks, narrow cobblestone streets, and many colonial style buildings in excellent state of repair.Both colonias are affluent, with property prices in San Ángel particularly high. From the outside, many buildings look rather ordinary but as is often the case in Mexico the real treasures are only revealed when the gates are opened and one is let into the amazing courtyards. Unfortunately, in these neighborhoods this is by invitation only.From San Ángel, cross Revolution, one of the largest arteries in the city. On the east side of the street is the Museo del Carmen with three lovely domes covered with Talavera tiles from Puebla—these are the emblem of San Ángel. The former monastery now houses a museum with colonial furniture and art. The original architecture of the monastery is mostly preserved. The interior of the church is not surprisingly Baroque but generally not as over the top Churrigueresque (aka Ultra Baroque) as is often the case in Mexico. Notice all the blue and white Talevera tiles on the bottom parts of walls as well as mostly yellow motives on altars.From here stroll down La Paz and cross the busy Avenida Insurgentes—the longest street in Latin America. (It literally runs straight through Mexico City on a north-south axis.) On the east is a typical Mexican park with many trees, paved walkways, iron benches, and fenced-off open spaces. The main interest here is the huge, stark monument erected in honor of General Álvero Obregón. He was assassinated nearby in 1928, shortly before he could start his second term as Mexican president. It is a steep walk reminiscent of climbing Aztec pyramids to enter the building. A large statue of the one-armed assassinated President dominates the small space. Look down to see the concrete floor with bullet marks from the assassin’s gun—don’t confuse the easier to see coins that were dropped on the glass cover with the harder to spot bullet marks. It is possible to go down to the lower level for a closer view. On this lower level is also a bronze copy of the arm Obregón lost at the battle of Celaya. For years the real arm was on display but it presumably deteriorated to such an extent that it had to be replaced by the bronze one.Stroll down Miguel Ángel and cross diagonally through the Park Tagle to Arenal. Continue to Universidad where the small, red-colored chapel of San Antonio Panzacola can be seen. Cross the small river via the stone bridge and enter Avenida Francisco Sosa, one of the loveliest colonial streets in Mexico. It is tree-lined and has numerous colonial-era buildings in mostly excellent states of repair. Note the Casa de Sol where Caranza wrote the drafts of the Mexican constitution. Further down the street note the copy of a Tula Atlante in front of No 319. The house was for rent when we passed by—the use of the Atlante is presumably included in the rent.The street, in total around a mile long, continues straight into Coyoacán and terminates at Jardín Centenario with its characteristic yellow gates. Just before the park is the very pleasant Moheli Cafetería y Delicatessen.

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