My girlfriend comes from the Eastern part of Bulgaria about an hour's drive from the Black Sea. Therefore, by a quirk of geography, her home is actually far closer to the Romanian capital of Bucharest than its Bulgarian counterpart Sofia. So, when we decided to…Read More

My girlfriend comes from the Eastern part of Bulgaria about an hour's drive from the Black Sea. Therefore, by a quirk of geography, her home is actually far closer to the Romanian capital of Bucharest than its Bulgarian counterpart Sofia. So, when we decided to pay a visit to her family, we flew to Bucharest. Her father and uncle were kind enough to agree to collect us and drive us south. If I am honest, when we booked the trip, the journey between the two countries was as alluring to me as the attractions that Bulgaria had to offer (If I am honest, I was not 100% sure what those attractions would amount to). It would be a chance to see Eastern Europe up close.

It was a bright Saturday afternoon when we took the road that leads from Bucharest to the border. We had landed and spent the day in the capital having lunch, visiting Nocolai Ceaucescu's ill-fated presidential palace and seeing a few historic buildings. So, we left the centre and headed due south. The first thing that I noticed here was the rather rapid and dramatic change that takes place once you move a kilometer away from the palace and embassies in the centre of the city. Tree-lined boulevards give way to dusty and crumbling streets that were lined by rather dilapidated looking apartment blocks. I was truly amazed how quickly the façade of splendour disappeared. As the roads grew increasingly bumpy, I mused that this said a lot about the Communist era and how out of touch the leaders must have been with everyday people.

For the first stages of our journey, the road was shadowed by the rather ramshackle looking tramway. This was another Communist era relic. And, even in the car with the wind blowing through the windows we could hear it grinding and clanking its way along the roads. It looked beautifully antiquated. Each of the stations was little more than a concrete platform with a rusting shelter bolted onto it. There were no ticket machines - we could see conductors on the trams taking fares - there were no digital screens saying when the next tram would arrive; there wasn't even a map. It all looked very bleak. Along the sides of the road, things were as ramshackle as the tram. As we moved out of the city, the apartment blocks gave way to cottages and shacks - there were even horses and carts trotting along.

At this point, I was already thinking about what I would say in my journals about Romania. I had it all drafted out in my head. I would talk about how quickly we went from the wide boulevards of the city to the 'rustic' countryside. Then, something happened to completely mess with the lovely little narrative I had all planned. The cottages and shacks did not disappear, but they began to be punctuated by industry - farming technology seemed to be a big favourite - and the roads began to widen and appear more modern. A lot of the plants and showrooms evoked a modernity that was even missing from the center of Bucharest. This completely took me aback. I was expecting no such transformation. It also left me a little confused. It wasn't until I made the return journey a week later that I figured out that the industrialization had taken place so far away from Bucharest because of the area's proximity to the Danube and the Bulgarian border ensuring trade possibilities and easier transportation.

The changes in the scenery around Romania were significant, albeit not earth-shattering. I certainly, though, found it very interesting to track the way that the country changed as the landscape slipped by our window.   Close

It may astound you to discover that not only can you catch a flight using Tarom or Lufthansa at Bucharest airport, but you can also enjoy a dose of time travel. Obviously, I do not mean actual time travel. That would be a rather ridiculous…Read More

It may astound you to discover that not only can you catch a flight using Tarom or Lufthansa at Bucharest airport, but you can also enjoy a dose of time travel. Obviously, I do not mean actual time travel. That would be a rather ridiculous notion. However, taking a flight from Otopeni is something of a schizophrenic experience. It blended the ultra-modern and developed with an antiquity, chaos and squalor that I thought would have been confined to the last century.

In getting to Otopeni we had driven through Bulgris, across the Danube and up to Bucharest in 40 degree heat. Without air-conditioning in the car, we were sweltering. Therefore, I was looking forward to stepping into the icy blast of the terminal building to check-in for my flight. Sadly, when we arrived we found that the temperature inside was scarcely different from the baking sun outside. We attributed this to the rather limp performance of the air-conditioning and the huge amount of people crammed into a frightening small area. Built during Communist times the terminal and the check-in area harked back to a time when international flights were not so common in Bucharest.

Thankfully, there were electronic machines to ease the check-in process. However, after using these I still had a long queue to drop my bags at the desk. This queue was a particularly unpleasant experience as I was constantly having to stay vigilant in order to stop other travellers stealing my place in line. Once I was checked-in we decided to for a drink (it needed to be a cold one). However, the cafe was awful. There was no a/c whatsoever and the drinks were very expensive (3 Euros for a small iced-tea). There was also no partition between the main part of the cafe and the smoking section, which meant second hand smoke drifted through.

After our uncomfortable drink, I bade farewell to my girlfriend and her family before battling my way through the crowds to Passport Control and the Departure Lounge beyond. After handing my passport to a rather grumpy police officer, I moved through to departures. The two areas were separated by just a small flight os stairs, but in comparison to what had gone before it was like ascending to heaven. The departure lounge was clean, bright spacious and, best of all, beautifully chilled. As I sauntered in to the duty-free area, I could not quite believe the contrast I was seeing.

I had about 90 minutes before I needed to board my flight and I passed them serenely in Otopeni. First, I stopped by the food court, which bore no comparison the cafe outside, and enjoyed a rather nice sandwhich. Next, I headed to the coffee shop (which was operated by the chain Gloria Jeans) for a delicious cup of coffee. The, I did a little duty-free shopping, picking up some very reasonably-priced after-shave. As I boarded my plane I could not help but ruefully shake my head at my experiences in Otopeni. It really was like stepping between two worlds.   Close

The premise of this article may sound a little far fetched. However, I am going to beg the reader to suspend judgement until the culmination of the next few paragraphs as I do believe the observations I am about to detail to be rather insightful.…Read More

The premise of this article may sound a little far fetched. However, I am going to beg the reader to suspend judgement until the culmination of the next few paragraphs as I do believe the observations I am about to detail to be rather insightful. My main point is that after spending an afternoon in Bucharest, I found myself continually comparing it to China, where I spent four very happy years of my life. Perhaps I should a little more specific here before we move on. Bucharest reminded me of China when I first arrived in 2006 as the surge of economic growth really began to gain speed.

As I already stated, I understand that this may all sound a little contrived and perhaps a touch stretched. Therefore, I will begin by acknowledging the raft of potential criticisms. The first would, quite obviously, be that the people are very different (dark hair aside). The second would be the distinct absence of any signs of Chinese language or culture. And, the third would be that much of Bucharest has a tremendously French influence. Many of the buildings look French and there is even a war memorial that looks remarkably like the Arc du Triumphe (It is called the Arcul du Triumphe). As an aside, to give some background information, the Romanian language is actually closer to French than either Italian or Spanish. All of the above are very strong reasons to declare that the premise of this article is utter balderdash. However, I am not so sure.

After I have spent so much time describing why my assertions are wrong, I should probably begin to build my argument, which I believe to be rather forceful. I want to start from a historical perspective. Both countries spent the majority of the latter half of the past century mired in the stagnation of Communist rule. Both only managed to re-emerge into the outside world during the 1980s. China did this a little earlier and has been more successful in its growth into a market economy. Therefore, cities like Shanghai and Beijing are almost completely void of the signs of the Communist past - ancient treasures remain, but much recent history has vanished. Bucharest is not that far along and the signs of the past are clear to see.

The first way in which the 1950s-1980s are still alive and well is the architecture. I found Bucharest to a rather pleasant, but slightly shabby city. Communist regimes across the world were fans of wide boulevards and intimidating blockish buildings. In many of China's smaller cities this style was king. In Bucharest too, the city planners did not seem to deal with single lanes. It was four roaring lanes of traffic or nothing. Along these wide expanses of tarmac - slightly crumbling tarmac - stood plenty of apartment blocks that had certainly seen better days. They were all built in the 1980s and looked like a child's building blocks. This reminded me of Tianjin in northern China when I first moved there in 2006.

The final aspect of Bucharest that brought back memories of China was the prevalence of foreign logos. Just as in China they were everywhere. There were outlet stores, there were malls and there were small shacks all emblazoned with Nike, Calvin Klein and the like. This was the case in China in 2006 also. However, in both situations these brands were not housed in shiny boutiques in glistening malls - in China that would come later - instead the logos were sinply stuck, sdraped or even painted on. In gave the impression of a new market economy being super-imposed onto the old socialist system.
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If someone were to ask me exactly what started my interest in travel and acted as the catalyst for my experiences in Mongolia, China and other far flung corners, I would argue that amongst many contributory factors was a book I read when I was…Read More

If someone were to ask me exactly what started my interest in travel and acted as the catalyst for my experiences in Mongolia, China and other far flung corners, I would argue that amongst many contributory factors was a book I read when I was 16 years old. I found 'Lambada Country' by Giles Whittel in a second-hand book-store in Scarborough in north-east Yorkshire and was transfixed. Whittel, who would later become the Los Angeles correspondent for The Times, took a bicycle journey through Eastern Europe just months after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of Communism. It was a fascinating book that did the job that good travel writing should always do: it made me want to get up and go.

Lambada Country fostered in me a general desire to travel and to see the world. It also sparked my interest in the post-Communist world. This is perhaps reflected in my trips to China and to Mongolia. In Mongolia, I was absolutely captivated by some of the relics of the relatively recent past that were still on show. For example, there were abandoned Soviet army bases in the Gobi desert and small harbours on Lake Khovsvgul with elaborate logos and statues proclaiming Mongolian/Soviet friendship. In China, with its rapid development and increase in shiny new skyscrapers. Such aspects of the past were not so clear to see or easy to find. But, the souvenir stalls selling Chairman Mao souvenirs and the schoolchildren still wearing red sashes over their uniforms showed it was there.

During my brief visit to Romania, there were plenty of echoes of the Communist era on show. The biggest and clearest of these was the lavish Parliamentary Palace constructed by Ceaucesu at the heart of the city that was designed to be the largest building on earth - by the time it was finished it was only big enough for second or third place. There were also scores of old run-down apartment blocks that provided a legacy that perhaps gave a truer reflection on the success of the Communist era. The staff at the airport harked back to a time before market economics as they grunted at travellers barely hiding their disdain for their jobs. As clear all these signs of the old times were, there was one other relic that probably caught my attention a little more: The Dacia.

Currently, there is an advertisement on French TV in which almost every guest at a dinner party is astounded that a shiny 4x4 produced by Dacia and driven by one sharply-dressed dinner guest costs less than 10,000 Euros. Before my trip to Bucharest, I never really paid it much attention. It was just another car commercial. However, after seeing the history of the Dacia driving around the city, it placed what I saw on French TV into extremely stark context.

For those who are unaware, the Dacia was the car produced by the state-owned factories in Romania during Communist times - the company continues to operate, although in a very different form. Dacia was similar to the Trabant in East Germany and the Skoda in Czechoslovakia. Just as with those companies, the cars produced were not of the greatest quality. They were slow, uncomfortable and prone to rust. All of these things were true of the Dacia. However, there is an another adjective we could add to the description, durable. 25 years after Ceaucescu was summarily executed and Communism rule was abruptly ended in Romania, the cars remain.

We saw several still puttering around the city, all of which were doing so at a rather sedate pace and seemed to be followed by a small cloud of smoke. They provided a fantastic contrast to some of the city's noveau riche drivers. On the way into Bucharest from Otopeni airport, there are dealerships for Ferraris and other super cars. We also spotted Rolls Royces imported from Germany drifting around the city. The Dacia's looked like they were from a different world and a different era (which of course they were) and probably helped the roads of the city to serve as something of a metaphor for the transformation of the city itself.

Seeing the Dacia's around Bucharest was not the most awe-inspiring sight in the world. If you wish to see something more dramatic, go to the palace. However, I found them to be a fascinating window into history.   Close

Over the course of my many travels, and before touching down in Bucharest, there had only been two places that set really over-powering first impressions as I landed. The first was Ulaan Baatar in Mongolia. I flew there from Shermetyevo in Moscow and, in so…Read More

Over the course of my many travels, and before touching down in Bucharest, there had only been two places that set really over-powering first impressions as I landed. The first was Ulaan Baatar in Mongolia. I flew there from Shermetyevo in Moscow and, in so doing, passed over the frozen and unspoiled wilderness of Siberia. It was miles and miles of pure white snow. This was only broken by the huge smoggy cloud that hung over the Mongolian capital. It gave the impression that I was witnessing man's best attempts at sullying nature. The areas surrounding the airport were similarly tainted and dirty as they took in the majority of Mongolia's industry. The second place was Muscat, the capital of Oman into which I flew from Dubai along the coastline on the Gulf of Oman. All I saw from the window of the plane was golden sands and unbelievably blue seas. It genuinely looked like paradise and I can remember feeling a great sense of elation and curiosity as the plane banked towards Sultan Qaboos airport.

Both Oman and Mongolia created extremely strong first impressions that still linger in my mind today many years after my first contact with either country. However, both of them actually proved to be slightly misleading as neither was Oman a paradise nor Mongolia a smog covered mess. Oman proved to be rather dusty once you moved away from the coast and the areas outside Ulaan Baatar were absolutely stunning. A country that created a similarly negative first impression was Romania. However, just like Mongolia and Oman, it managed to redeem itself somewhat.

From the air, things in Bucharest didn't actually look too bad. The approach to the city was very rural, but it all looked rather pleasant. However, as we neared the runway, it began to look rather unwelcoming. The first aspect of this was the array of military aircraft parked close to the landing area as though ready for instant deployment against unruly tourists. This was not all that welcoming, but not particularly off-putting. However, as we then taxied around the runway for 15 minutes taking a tour of broken down Communist-era aircraft and decrepit Communist era hangars, I was beginning to think Bucharest was not my dream destination. Even thought it was 2012, it felt like 1987. The whole scenario conjured imagery in my brain from the excellent novel, 'The Last Days' by Patrick McGuinness that is set in Romania in 1988 and 1989 and paints a bleak picture of the airport as a pace to which people only go in order to escape the country.

The terminal building managed to undo some of the damage done by the outside areas of the airport as it was shiny and new and - in the design at least - owned nothing to Communist planners. However, some of the sights inside were not what you would expect in a modern European capital. The first thing was the immigration officers who were frighteningly rude and obtrusive (they seemed genuinely loathed to let anyone into the country). The second was some of the advertising on show. Instead of ads for major banks or culture in the city as you tend to find in most airports, the only advertisements on show were for a casino. All of them featured scantily clad models apparently winning big and gazing out invitingly.

As I stepped out into Romania proper, I was not feeling good about the place. And, unlike in both Oman and Mongolia, I did not have the chance to get to know it in intimate detail. However, as we drove into the centre, it quickly became clear that the city was badly misrepresented by its airport. The roads seemed to all be tree-lined boulevards with lush grass on either side. There were also scores of wonderful villas that are now used as foreign embassies. This whole area seemed far closer to images of Paris or Rome rather than an ex Eastern-Bloc capital. Then, the centre of the city loomed upon us as we began to see huge fountains, vastly wide boulevards and magisterial buildings. At this point I would argue that it would be wrong to paint Bucharest as akin to Paris or Rome, but there were certainly impressive elements to the city. However, to counter this, there was a plentiful supply of old apartment blocks that looked rather run-down. However, in general, the state of the city was far better than its horrific airport suggested it might be.   Close

As I grew up in the UK, the idea of crossing a border by land still seems a little alien (Scotland and Wales do not really count). When I hear such language, I always find myself thinking of Le Carre spy novels or of Bond…Read More

As I grew up in the UK, the idea of crossing a border by land still seems a little alien (Scotland and Wales do not really count). When I hear such language, I always find myself thinking of Le Carre spy novels or of Bond movies with men dressed in black scurrying around and attempting to avoid the beams of massive search lights and the barks of ferocious looking dogs. Obviously, this is not really a fair reflection on the modern-day reality. In fact, since the formation of the EU, you barely notice passing between countries - going between France and Italy is the same as taking a regular train within either country. For example, the train from Nice (where I currently live) to Ventimiglia simply continues into Italy after the French town of Menton and no-one checks anything.

My crossing from Romania into Bulgaria managed to maintain just a touch of the drama I had allowed myself to conjure up, although it proved to be a less than glamorous scenario. As we arrived on the Romanian side of the border we were greeted by a scene of complete squalor. The road was crumbling, the majority of the buildings were in a severe state of disrepair and wild dogs seemed to be roaming the area - it was a panorama that did little to make me want to return to the country. So, we quickly paid our fee of 6 Euros to cross the bridge that spans the Danube (You can pay the toll in Romanian Lei, Bulgarian Leva or Euros).

The bridge itself was in a similar state of disrepair to the Romanian border posts. In fact, it seemed almost like a clichéd example of post-Communist decline. There were four large pillars erected to mark the start of the bridge that seemed to be tottering and were supported by scaffolding. And, the road was so badly worn in one area that the crossing was restricted to just one lane of traffic. However, the poor state of the bridge notwithstanding, the view it provided was immense. We were able to look west along the river past the Bulgarian town of Russe and watched the Danube - which, sadly, was not at all blue - wind away into central Europe. The one disappointment was that we could not stop to take photos. We were not allowed to do this and it would also have stopped traffic on the bridge.

Thankfully, the Bulgarian side of the border was not anywhere near as decrepit as its Romanian counter-part. It was heralded by a huge white, green and red flag, which flew alongside that of the EU on one of two very imposing flag poles. There also seemed to be far fewer wild dogs roaming around. The whole scene just seemed far cleaner and whole lot less depressing.

As much of an improvement as Bulgaria seemed to be. There was one moment that really opened my eyes. As we moved through passport control, the border officer stopped the car in front of ours for inspection. The car was full to bursting with shopping bags - the boot was not properly closed and there was no room for any passengers. The border officer clearly suspected there was a case of smuggling afoot. So, he appeared to be questioning the driver rather stridently. That was until the driver handed a shoe-box with a Nike label to the guard. The guard examined the contents of the box, walked to his office and put the box down and, miraculously, the problem went away. The car passed through the border having paid no tax on the goods, save for a pair of sneakers for the border guard.   Close

Several days in to our Go Gorillas hitch hiking expedition from Poland to Greece and having been fiddling around with small rides in a group of three in Hungary, we found ourselves making up on time and absolutely raced through Romania. In fact, we crossed…Read More

Several days in to our Go Gorillas hitch hiking expedition from Poland to Greece and having been fiddling around with small rides in a group of three in Hungary, we found ourselves making up on time and absolutely raced through Romania. In fact, we crossed the whole country in about 9 hours, initially we planned to stay in Timisoara but after picking up a ride directly from Oradea to Caransebes, we decided to press on for the 120 or so kilometres to the Serbian border crossing slightly north of the Romanian town Drobeta Turnu-Severin.

Having sped along a winding and weaving road that followed the Danube, we were dropped off in heavy rain at the border crossing with a big sign saying Portile de Fieri which translates to Iron Gate. In fact, there are two Iron Gate Power Stations stretching across this wide part of the Danube that act as part of a dam built in 1972 to slow down the Danube.

The border looks like it gets quite a lot of traffic and there's a parking bay made out for queues of cars, in fact it reminded me a bit of the port in Dover. It certainly wasn't busy when we were there though, two dogs were snuggled between border cubicles out of the rain, a border guard approached us and asked to see our passports and then told us that there was no issue with crossing the border except for the fact that we needed a car, he then urged us to come out of the rain and wait under a shelter. Mystified by our hitch hiking, he spoke pretty good English and couldn't quite work out why we were hitch hiking when cars were so cheap in England.

After thirty minutes or so, a Bulgarian car turned up at the border that was heading in to Serbia, and the border guard asked him to drive us the 1km over the dam
the man in a small van didn't particularly want to take us and begrudgingly began making space in the front seats of his van for us. It is common practice for the border guards to lump you together with anyone crossing the border, so you needn't worry about it too much if hitchhiking over this border. I love crossing Romanian borders, another interesting one is Calarasi to Silistra in Bulgaria, scenic, relaxed and the border guards are fantastically friendly.

Travelling across the top of the Danube on a dam road seemed rather James Bondesque, the natural surroundings are fantastic and both sides of the border have lots to offer the nature lover. Dundap in Serbia, in particular is a fascinating part of the country, the Danube is at its widest throughout the park (other than the Danube Delta) and the canyon is the largest in Europe. A cycle route is marked out along a road on the Serbian side and there are maps of the region too.

Arriving on the Serbian side at night was equally quiet apart from two rather busy stray dogs that felt the need to greet us to the country with a half-assed bark. Just as well someone was there because we couldn't actually find the border guards at first who appeared to be sat in a rather smoky room watching football. Still raining and dark, we asked them if we could camp by the border and they just shrugged and said of course, so we put up our tents metres away from the border, perhaps a bit too nonchalantly as we discovered in the morning that we had camped just metres away from an innocent looking bush which had actually become a makeshift toilet for certain truckers.    Close

Brașov to Bucharest is less than 3 hours by train. Bucharest became the state capital of Romania in 1862, and today it is the largest city in the country. I arrived on a quiet Sunday as most businesses were closed. As soon as I get…Read More

Brașov to Bucharest is less than 3 hours by train. Bucharest became the state capital of Romania in 1862, and today it is the largest city in the country. I arrived on a quiet Sunday as most businesses were closed. As soon as I get out of the taxi to my hostel, I noticed cables were dangling at poles erected on the street. This scenario reminded me so much of the French Quarter in Hanoi. It was just ironic that Bucharest is known as the 'Little Paris' in Eastern Europe.

Bucharest eclectic architecture is a mix of old and new - medieval, neoclassical, art nouveau with modern skyscrapers. Many buildings are old (but well preserved) in the historic district area, while new ones with reflecting glass windows complete the landscape around the city. If you want to experience the charm of Bucharest, Calea Victoriei (Victory Road) would be the best place to begin. It was built as a main road in 1692 when Constantin Brancoveanu wanted a road to link to his palace at Mogosoaia with the Old Court. Some of the most beautiful buildings are found here: the National Savings Bank, the Telephone Palace, the Cretulescu Church, and the Romanian Antheneum.

Bucharest has an extensive public transportation system. It consists of the Bucharest Metro, buses, trams, trolleys, and light rail. Cost starts at 4.0 lei for two trips. Unlike the narrow subway platforms in New York City, the platforms in Bucharest Metro are wide. Like the stations in Kiev, the stations in Bucharest are clean, and trash free. The train cars have policemen on duty.

The downtown is at Piata Unirii (Union Square). The fountains give a cooling misty effect on hot summer days around the area. However, they looked pretty awkward, with major roads intersecting one another on one of the busiest streets in the city. It was caught up with Ceausescu's plan for urbanization, and unfortunately, lots of historical buildings and monuments were virtually wiped out to make way for what was to become the second largest building in the world, the Parliament Palace (Palatul Parlamentului). Today, it is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Bucharest. It opened to the public in 1990, and it has the biggest rooms, the biggest chandelier, and the biggest and longest conference room you've ever seen.

A free walking tour begins at Piata Unirii, near the fountains where the clock is. You have to look for a person wearing an orange shirt. A two-hour tour which takes tourists to Calea Victoriei to see Stavropoleos Church, the Old Court Church, and the Old Court. There's Manuc's Inn (Hanul lui Manuc) which was built around 1808. It used to be an inn, and later was used as a prison. After being abandoned for a number of years, today it is reopening as a hotel-restaurant and wine cellar. It is one of Bucharest's historical buildings. Another point of interests is the Villacrose and Macca passages. These two pedestrian alleys are roofed with tainted glasses, and wrought iron. They are lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants in a 'U' shape. The sun gives a natural light to the alley when it hits the tinted rooftop.

The tour ends by the Revolution Square. This is the site of a series of riots in December 1989. The Romanian Revolution overthrown the Communist government, and marked the end of Ceauşescu's regime. The Athénée Palace Hotel, the University of Bucharest Library and the Memorial Rebirth are all located here. Andrei Pana is one of the guides working for guide-bucharest. He showed passion in his work, and he loved his job although the guide(s) has to rely on tips as the main source of income.

That night, I joined the group for ice-cream at McDonald. I got a little lost on my way back to my hostel, and I had to be wary as Bucharest is known for its stray dogs roaming the streets at night.

The day before I left for the airport, I went to Caru' cu Bere for lunch. It is one of the oldest beer house in Bucharest. An impressive building in its own right, the Caru' cu Bere reminds us why Bucharest is known as 'little Paris'. The mural paintings, the stained glasses, and the carved cross-beams are all distinctive elements of an art nouveau building. Famous for its original homemade beer, it serves an excellent selection of Romanian cuisines.

The train runs to the airport from the main train station. It cost 8.00 lei (less than $3), and the last train out is before 9 pm. The train stops in the middle of nowhere in a housing area, and you have to drag your belongings to a waiting van nearby. It makes one wonder what happens if there is a group of twenty people on the train the same night?

There are definitely a lot more Ukraine and Romania have to offer to the tourism industry. They have been under the radar for quite awhile, and in recent years, governments of both countries have been aggressively promoting these countries as top tourists' destinations. The World Tourism Organization has already placed Ukraine in the top 25 most visited countries in world.

Ukraine and Romania are without doubt the places to go again and again.   Close

Brașov is a good starting point for trips around Romania. I arrived at the main train station after a 10-hour journey train ride from Timisoara. Luckily the hostel that I stayed at is located not too far from the Old Town. The hostel is actually…Read More

Brașov is a good starting point for trips around Romania. I arrived at the main train station after a 10-hour journey train ride from Timisoara. Luckily the hostel that I stayed at is located not too far from the Old Town. The hostel is actually a huge house with lots of amenities, and a backyard for barbecue.

The Black Church is the most recognizable building in Old Town Brașov. It was built by the German community, and stands as the main Gothic style monument in the city. The Black Church (Biserica Neagră) got its name after being blackened by smoke from the 1689 fire that almost destroyed the entire city. It measures 65 meters from the floor level to the highest point which is the bell tower. History suggested that there were supposed to be two bell towers. Unfortunately, the city was only able to build one because it was lacking in funds.

The Council Square (Piata Sfatului) is one of the finest central squares in the country. In the center of the square stands the Old Town Hall, now home to Brasov's History Museum. You'll find the renaissance-style Merchant's House (now it is a restaurant), and the archway of the Orthodox Cathedral. In late summer, the Golden Stag (Cerbul de Aur) music festival takes place here. Situated in the heart of old medieval Brașov, and lined with beautiful merchant houses, the Council Square, known to the Saxon population as the Markplatz, is a nice place to rest and soak surrounded by the peaks of the Southern Carpathian Mountains.

Built between 1400 and 1650, part of Brașov's defensive fortifications can still be seen today, though most was taken down in the 19th century to make room for the city's expansion. With a stream running along Dupa Ziduri Street on the west side of the wall, you'll catch a glimpse of the 15th century White and Black Towers. However, one cannot tell which is which as they both seemed to have the same color. Looking down from the White Tower is Graft Bastion, one of the original surviving bastions. Follow the city wall southeast, you'll find Catherine's Gate which was built in 1559. It is the only original city gate that survived the test of time, and it is used as the main entrance to medieval Kronstadt at one time. Nearby is the classicist Schei Gate.

Not too far from there is Colegiul Andrei Saguna (a Romanian college). St Nicholas's Church dominates the Schei District. With a mix of Byzantine, Baroque, and Gothic styes, it features a slender tower and four corner towers. It is surrounded by protective walls with large wooden gates. The enclosure shelters a small old Jewish cemetery.

Brașov is the seventh largest city in Romania. Although relatively small in size, it packs with lots of history, culture, and attractions. If you like, you can join a free guided tour daily at 6 pm which begins by the fountain at the Council Square. I took the tour, and I thoroughly enjoyed the 2-hour walking tour guided by Loana, a volunteer for a non-profit organization tour company.

And lastly, don't forget to take a walk through the world's tinniest street in Brașov, Strada Sforii.   Close

Timisoara is the fourth largest city in Romania. I arrived at Traian Vuia International Airport, which is the hub of Romania's second-largest airline, Carpatair in the morning. Like Lviv, Timisoara's public transportation network consists of trams, trolleys and buses. The bus to the city center…Read More

Timisoara is the fourth largest city in Romania. I arrived at Traian Vuia International Airport, which is the hub of Romania's second-largest airline, Carpatair in the morning. Like Lviv, Timisoara's public transportation network consists of trams, trolleys and buses. The bus to the city center takes about 40 minutes, and it cost only 2 lei ($0.75).

Most places of interests in central Timisoara are easily accessible by foot. The Piaţa Victoriei (Victory Square) is probably the most well-known square in the old district of Timisoara. There are dozens of coffee houses, and restaurants which surround the square. The stunning Romanian Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral is located on the south side of the square, with the Opera Theater on the north across a beautiful landscape of green plants, and a fountain. The cathedral is home to many valuables, and religious objects such as old icons and early writing in Romanian. It has 11 towers, of which the central and the highest has a height of 96 meters.

Piaţa Unirii (Union Square) is the old city's center. Here you find The Catholic Dome, The Baroque Palace, and The Serbian Church among other important buildings.

Getting around the city is also possible by bicycle as there are dedicated cycle lanes in many parts of the city.

Located between Victory Square and Union Square, is Piaţa Libertăţii (Liberty Square), a small square with old buildings. Here you can find the old City Hall and the St. Nepomuk's Statue. Carved in low resistance sandstone, the monument was built in memory of the 1738-1739 plague victims in Timisoara.

Timisoara is known in Romania as the City of Parks. The Botanical Park which is near Piata Unirii is the most beautiful park in Timisoara. Then there is the Rose Park which is near Piata Victoriei, the Central Park which is just behind the Metropolitan Orthodox Cathedral), and the Children's Park which is near the Student Campus.

The day I arrived in Timisoara was one of the hottest days in the city. Temperature was 33 degree Celsius (almost 92 degree Fahrenheit). I had to get away from the sun at a local Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant. After I had a large cup of Pepsi (you need to request for ice, otherwise it will be just soda), I walked toward the Central Park, and sat under the shade. The park was originally a military cemetery. Today, it is a park with Monuments of Heroes, statues, and fountains.

There are rows of historic buildings as I walked my way to Gara Nord, the main train station for my night journey to Brașov. Most still retained their original state, while others have recently been restored. I saw trams that reminded me of the subway cars in New York City. It was like the iconic 7 (red) train cars given a second life here in Timisoara. It took me approximately an hour to walk from the park to the train station. I stopped at a cafe nearby for (bite size) pastries before I boarded my train.   Close