Hecho en Honduras

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Overview

Pepsi Truck Photo - San Pedro Sula, Honduras

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There was no more putting off the inevitable return for spending the night in San Pedro Sula; a city which captures international Spanish headlines for all the wrong reasons! Crime, gangs, drugs, Hiv/AIDS are reportedly among the worst in Central America. I was still repulsing from the misguided culture shock-orientation upon arrival in Honduras.Most won't have any choice but to succumb with flight availabilities. Information consistantly admonishes the bad, but expecting the absolute worst turned out to be distortion. While there's no shortage to the reprehensible composite, discriminate visitors will best hold up within the downtown area.Oddly enough, there was safety in ...Read More

Quick Tips:

Top-Notch Museums
El Museo de Anthropolgía y Historia de San Pedro Sula is one of the top-rated museums in all of Latin America, and was the only must see on my list. I was beyond miffed to find it closes on Tuesdays for cleaning -- unlike Lonely Planet's faulty info that says it's open everyday from 9:00am-4:00pm; until 3:00pm Sundays. There's an impressive Mayan stellae in the courtyard, which led to an outdoor cafeteria that was open. This museum is located 3-blocks north of Parque Central, on 3a Av NO.

LP says the Museo de la Naturaleza (Natural History) has worthy collections. It's part of the city park and Francisco Marazán stadium complex; 9 long-blocks west of Parque Central. Asking around, I got conflicting information whether this museum closed or not on Tuesdays. It was too far and too hot for more nothing. I'll be returning sooner than later, and these musuems are definitely priority.

More than a Mouthful!
With glut of food vendors, find one serving-up baleadas hot off the griddle. This regional specialty resembles burritos, but folded instead of rolled. Loaded with choices of ingredients, with meat is 15Lps; without 7. The lady, on southwest corner off the Cathedral, fixes some staggering spicy pork.

Pain in the ¿Cómo se Llama?
As a traveler, greatest hassle will likely come from roving money changers, with their fists full of dollars, lempiras, pesos, etc. They're rather persistent and must attract innocuous customers for them all to remain in business. Banks are everywhere should you need to change cash. Look at the bright side: How dangerous is downtown if they can fluctuate all day, without getting knocked-off?

-- Exchange rate 5/07: 18.9 Lempiras/(Lps) on the US.

Suck it up...
...and sweat it out! Figuring there was no need to stick-out more than I potentially would, the jeans stayed on and necessitated two changes of clothes during the day. The heat was only intensified in heart of the city. Sloppily-worn western attire is slowly creeping it's way into culture, but comfortable summer/beach-wear is not acceptable. Locals, both male and female, can break the taboo of wearing shorts. Travelers do so at your own risk of appearing disrespectful. Let's just say San Pedro Sula isn't the place to push any limits or flirt with potential trouble.

Best Way To Get Around:

Within the downtown area, walking is the quickest and most interesting way for getting around during the day. After years living in NYC and Spanish Harlem, this was nothing. Nevertheless, travelers not used to a city environment will likely feel intimidated and that's where dormant risk incubates. Unless you feel confident and at ease, take a taxi! No sense flying the red-flag of vulnerable prey.

Current set-price for taxis to-and-from the Airport is 200Lps; roughly one-way. The above link summarizes what travelers can expect with arrivals/departures at Aeropuerto Internacional Ramón Villeda Morales, but that's the easy part.

San Pedro Sula has became the main connecting point for everywhere within Honduras, including popular destinations. Until proposed international airports are built around the country, ground transportation is the norm and where things got interesting, if not down-right frustrating!

A new bus terminal has sat unoccupied for almost two years because operators refuse to use it and pay franchise fees. Long-haul bus companies, which would be of travelers' interest, had negotiated terms to begin usage 5/28/07. City drivers went on strike and barricaded all others within the new terminal.

Transportation was crippled for more than half the country. The normal 4-hour ride from Gracias took almost seven, hopping in-and-out of trucks, cars or whatever stopped along highways. Even worse, scalppers took full-advantage of even the locals; -fare on normal direct service turned into for me.

This penalty will hopefully be your privilege, seen as "progress". The centralized terminal will be massive improvement over individual lots scattered about the most undesirable parts of town. Until then, Hedman Alas is the luxury line, with fares almost triple of other companies, though travel times are roughly the same. They've also opened a mini-terminal at the airport.

El Rey Express and Casasola offer the same routes headed towards the Copán Valley. The latter two also use charter-type buses without the perks (including inaccessible restrooms). Schedules and travel times are also unreliable. For if-and-when, the modernized terminal should only improve accountability and service.

-- Public transportation ceases at dusk. Without Daylight Savings Time, that's earlier than expected. If your flight hasn't arrived in San Pedro Sula by 3:00pm, likely plan on spending the night.

-- Lonely Planet paints a very scarey picture of San Pedro city buses. True or not, there's no need to use them downtown.
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Hotel San Jose

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Hotel

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Spending at least one night in San Pedro is almost unavoidable with flight schedules. Hence, traveler's need prepare for the good, the bad, and the really scuzzy! The city's accommodations are geared either towards business travelers with hefty expense accounts, or low-end local establishments. I must have looked through at least 8 options before settling into Hotel San José.All things considered, it turned out to be quite the asylum; literally! The sterile halls looked like something out of an institution. Everything in rooms has Hotel San José written all over them -- I...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on October 20, 2007

Hotel San Jose
6a Ave. SO between 5a & 6a Calles
San Pedro Sula, Honduras
+504 557 1208

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Pamplona Cafeteria y Restaurante

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Restaurant

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Harrowing transportation experiences dictated many of my Honduran dining experiences, and arriving famished in San Pedro Sula was no different. Scouting around for a hotel revealed a deluge of eating establishments; the clown, the colonel, the king, the little red-headed girl, and comrades -- Americans that I avoid like the plague when at home. And there, like a beacon of impulse in the downtown area, was Cafetería Pamplona.The menu board posted out front was rather confounding with numerous listings tightly scribbled en español. No deciphering was needed for the pair of platos del día, daily specials that lured me in.Confusion stemmed from when the mesera...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 20, 2007

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La Catedral

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Attraction

La Catedral Photo - San Pedro Sula, Honduras

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It was just there; this humongous structure of a church holding its own in the downtown area. What it lacked in height, compared to the neighboring skyline, it more than made up for in presence. There was nothing ornamental, decorative or even imaginative about the facade facing Parque Central, but it was compelling just the same. I couldn't seem to escape its aspect, nor tear my eyes away.I'd yet to find a Cathedral open for browsing in Honduras; everything locked-up tight until mass. When bells started ...Read More

It was just there; this humongous structure of a church holding its own in the downtown area. What it lacked in height, compared to the neighboring skyline, it more than made up for in presence. There was nothing ornamental, decorative or even imaginative about the facade facing Parque Central, but it was compelling just the same. I couldn't seem to escape its aspect, nor tear my eyes away.

I'd yet to find a Cathedral open for browsing in Honduras; everything locked-up tight until mass. When bells started echoing through downtown at dusk, the 'call to worship' was more than anticipated. With no rush, I stayed in the park and surveyed the stream of parishers filing in for vespers. For the first time in a sweat-soaked day, I was thankful to have had the jeans on. I wouldn't have dared entered otherwise; you shouldn't either if inappropriately dressed.

It was time to acknowledge the calling card once music was audible, though I barely made it past the front door; stopped dead in my tracks from what I saw! Immenseness of the exterior housed an architectural wonder like nothing ever witnessed. The design, in shape of a Latin cross, was familiar but nothing more. There were no frills of intricacy. This was pure notion, plain and simple.

A series of mammoth archways hemmed the nave; the outer hallways as straight forward without side chapels. Perhaps most compelling were the vibrant colors which radiated a warmth unlike most darkened churches. Slipping along a side passage, the geometrical exhibitions were prismatic the way pastel yellow, orange and blue trimmed vantage points which shifted with every step. Reverence was awe.

No one seemed to mind discreetly looking around even when it came time for getting a better look at the central dome. Ceilings are frescoed with scenes of saints and apostles floating through heaven, but the style was modern. Perhaps even more confounding were stained-glass windows ablaze with sunset beyond. And what was up with the age-old symbol of the human eye inside the triangle?

Something about this Cathedral was as overwhelming as it was disturbing, which I wouldn't discover until later. San Pedro Sula's growth and wealth have only been recent. Parque Central and this spectacular Cathedral are rather new; the latter completed in 1959. I've seen so many of these historic landmarks, that's why this one just didn't fit. If anything, that's what makes this modern-day wonder all the more a must see because it's so unique!

-- In a disreputable city like this, I fully understand why they can't just leave the church unlocked for casual browers. Do yourself a favor and stick around to see if there's a daily 7pm mass. I got one on a Tuesday, but found/saw no schedules of services posted. Considering how little else there is to marvel in San Pedro, I don't think you'll be disappointed!
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 20, 2007

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Mercado de Artensanias Guamilito

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Attraction

Mercado de Artensanias Guamilito Photo - San Pedro Sula, Honduras

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There's nothing like a good tourist trap, disguised as a crafts market, to make one resent yourself but there's something about these places that always reel me in - hook, line and sinker! San Pedro Sula's Mercado de Artesanias Guamilito proved to be another one of those stereotypical lessons I just can't seem to learn. Bargain busters and travel shopaholics likely recognize the antipathy.This enclosed market area is huge, hot, and hellatious for starters. There's no way a person could possibly look at everything, and that's part of the madness! After the third or fourth vendor, you've seen 90% of the mass-quantity items for sale everywhere. It's that other 10% that's causes th...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 20, 2007

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Parque Central

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Attraction

Parque Central Photo - San Pedro Sula, Honduras

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The downtown area is centered around Parque Central, and while that's no surprise for a Latin American city, your one-stop everything has never been so assaulting and enticing at the same time. San Pedro Sula's population isn't even close to one-million inhabitants, but you'd swear that many or more were swarming through the area at any given time!The country's industrial blemish of a city is not attractive or inviting. Headlines and travelers' advisories only add to apprehensions. Unless planning to stay barricaded in stuffy rooms, you've got to get out and downtown is the place to be. For all that's probably unforgivable, Parque Central is like ...Read More

The downtown area is centered around Parque Central, and while that's no surprise for a Latin American city, your one-stop everything has never been so assaulting and enticing at the same time. San Pedro Sula's population isn't even close to one-million inhabitants, but you'd swear that many or more were swarming through the area at any given time!

The country's industrial blemish of a city is not attractive or inviting. Headlines and travelers' advisories only add to apprehensions. Unless planning to stay barricaded in stuffy rooms, you've got to get out and downtown is the place to be. For all that's probably unforgivable, Parque Central is like a safe zone that everyone shares and enjoys.

The large plaza maintains an outdoor haven with ample shade trees, flowering shrubs and gardens, and even fountains flowing into a meandering pool.

The gazebo was getting a fresh-coat of paint, and maintenance crews were fighting a losing, round-the-clock battle against litter. If traveling frequently in Latin America, you'll understand.

Unless you're prone to shopping or gorging, there's not a lot to do in the immediate area though a person could loose all track of time simply people watching. The circulating frenzy was absolutely amazing; San Pedro Sula on parade like a circus without the big-top as every faction of society stars in their own personal center-ring. They say "it takes all kinds", and you're sure to spot them here.

Not that there were any locations more prime than others, but I definitely recommend moving around and changing vantage points. During my dispersed gawk-sessions, I never saw any other travelers and while no one went out of their way to chat or make me feel welcomed, I also never felt unwelcomed. Unlike their cordial country cousins, these were definitely city folks; off in their own little worlds whether shared or alone.

Roving vendors of all ages had something to sell, and the polaroid photographers provided the best images from both sides of the perspectives. Latinos in these poorer countries always impress me with what they'll do to earn (or spend) a buck. Just as tell-tale, no one begged or asked for money.

The park area stayed quite active right up until dusk, which without Daylight Savings Time meant things started clearing-out by 6:30pm. The sparse crowds definitely shifted towards younger riff-raff, junky-types, and raving pájaro drag-queens. Conditions still never felt dangerous or threatening, but even locals advise not to be walking around downtown after 9pm or so. From what little I saw, I'd have to agree.

-- Attempting to blend-in is part of the free escort to a frontrow seat for everything. Having camera out, constantly aimed is not only potentially offensive, it's asking for a snatch-and-run within crowds like this! Enjoy the show, but don't let your guard too down or become overly distracted.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 20, 2007

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The Airport -- Getting to/from Honduras

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Story/Tip

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Getting in/out of Honduras has never been easier thanks to Aeropuerto Internacional Ramón Villeda Morales; the newly renovated facility 15km outside San Pedro Sula. Considering location, this is the best option for making connections to the country's most popular sites, including the Copán Archeological Ruins and the Bay Islands. Industrial nature of this region keeps the airport busy with frequent global business travelers unlike in Tegucigalpa; the Capital's less-frequented airport.TACA and Copa have daily flights, connecting through other Centra...Read More

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