It's All About the Benjamins in Iceland

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Standing tall Photo - Reykjavik, Iceland

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Reykjavik is indeed expensive because they have to import almost everything. Dining out cost us at least US for two people with only two glasses of house wine. Eating lunch seemed even more ridiculous because offerings were as simple as a bowl of pasta with soup for about US for two. I was glad we only spent two nights in Reykjavik or else we would have depleted our bank accounts considerably.1. Eating minke whale.2. Eating puffin.3. Watching the Reykjavik Arts Festival parade with the Little Giant Girl.4. Walking around Reykjavik in chilly but sunny weather.5. Buying second-hand clothing at Sputnik on Laugavegur and some expensive outerwear at 66 North, Iceland's v...Read More

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Vin og Skel

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Restaurant

Chalkboard menu in Vin og Skel Photo - Reykjavik, Iceland

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For our first dinner in Reykjavik, we ended up at Vin og Skel (appropriately translates to Wine and Shell) on a small alley off the main shopping street of Laugavegur. We didn't have reservations, but when we walked in, the waitress led us to the only two-person table upstairs. We were surrounded by two large groups. It felt like we were crashing two different parties. Their entire menu was written on a blackboard which reminded me of any laid-back New England seafood restaurant, but the seafood at Vin og Skel was better than any I've had here in the States.Owner Kristjan Noi is not shy about experimenting, but the best dishes were the simplest. A pail of mussels was comforting in some broth f...Read More

For our first dinner in Reykjavik, we ended up at Vin og Skel (appropriately translates to Wine and Shell) on a small alley off the main shopping street of Laugavegur. We didn't have reservations, but when we walked in, the waitress led us to the only two-person table upstairs. We were surrounded by two large groups. It felt like we were crashing two different parties. Their entire menu was written on a blackboard which reminded me of any laid-back New England seafood restaurant, but the seafood at Vin og Skel was better than any I've had here in the States.

Owner Kristjan Noi is not shy about experimenting, but the best dishes were the simplest. A pail of mussels was comforting in some broth flavored with leeks. My glass of white wine wasn't as cold as I would have liked, so the mussels made me wish I ordered beer instead. My main dish, part of the "surprise menu" I selected, was a lobster-catfish-monkfish combination with white sauce. The dish was a little too salty but the lobster and the fish were the freshest I've had in a long time. Both fish were cooked just right: the meat tender with some give.

My partner's bacalao, or cod, an abundant fish in Iceland, was also really good. Unfortunately, it was also oversalted. His came with brown stock and potatoes, which were perfect to combat the chill coming in through the French doors next to the kitchen.

They were offering minke whale carpaccio as a special. I am currently doing research about whaling in Iceland to see if the meat for sale in their markets are from scientific research only, but that night, we simply couldn't resist.

The whale meat was of a deep-burgundy red, like beets, sliced thinly and drizzled with olive oil. The tops of what looked like radish greens had the perfect bitter taste to accompany the beefiness of the whale. It wasn't at all fishy and it tasted like a very expensive cut of beef. My partner felt more awful than I did because he loves to fish, but when asked if he'll eat it again, say in Japan where whale is also "allowed," he said yes.

We ended our night with crème brûlée served with a dainty gooseberry on top. It came with my prix-fixe. Our temples were pounding because of the salt we've consumed and my eyes were a little tired from squinting all night because the space was not well lit. In the end, both helped us fork over our $200 with only a glass of wine and a Pillsner Urquel.

We saved a lot of money while we were on the road, but we surely blew a lot just in one night! Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 24, 2007

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Carpe Diem

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Restaurant

Smoked puffin Photo - Carpe Diem, Reykjavik, Iceland

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Dinner the second night was at Carpe Diem inside the Foss Hotel. Since we arrived in Reykjavik, we’ve been eating a lot of the local seafood. We wanted to taste the local fare of lamb and the much-heard about puffin. Carpe Diem prides itself in the those two.We started with the Icelandic feast: a plate of salmon, herring and two kinds of roe served with crème fraiche. A small side of mixed greens and the accompanying wheat bread would have made it perfect for lunch.I was excited to finally eat the puffin. We were in Iceland in the beginning of the summer season and all the puffins were beginning to nest. We tried to stop by Dyrholaey but it was inaccessible, so we were unable to see th...Read More

Dinner the second night was at Carpe Diem inside the Foss Hotel. Since we arrived in Reykjavik, we’ve been eating a lot of the local seafood. We wanted to taste the local fare of lamb and the much-heard about puffin. Carpe Diem prides itself in the those two.

We started with the Icelandic feast: a plate of salmon, herring and two kinds of roe served with crème fraiche. A small side of mixed greens and the accompanying wheat bread would have made it perfect for lunch.

I was excited to finally eat the puffin. We were in Iceland in the beginning of the summer season and all the puffins were beginning to nest. We tried to stop by Dyrholaey but it was inaccessible, so we were unable to see them close-up. I thought that if I can't see them, I might as well eat them. They always say, When in Rome...

The "lundi" is the national bird of Iceland, but the locals are obviously not shy about eating them. My smoked puffin was neither gamey nor fishy as expected. It looked like beef with the beautiful marbling. It also tasted like fresh, high-quality beef. Unfortunately, it was served with unexciting shredded iceberg lettuce and zucchini and a dollop of white sauce which tasted like ranch dressing. I thought it would have been better if it was served carpaccio-style, drizzled with good olive oil.

We split an order of saddle of lamb. Before we ordered it, we asked our waitress if saddle was the term they use for rack of lamb. She said that it was. However, we were served the loin. To top it off, it was overdone. If it wasn't for its gamey taste, I would have confused it with well-done pork chops. Mushrooms, carrots, celery, and squared potatoes mingled with a few pieces of blueberries. They all drowned in some kind of brown sauce. The balsamic reduction sauce was burnt.

Who the hell was cooking in the kitchen? After a large family left, we were the only two in the restaurant. I would have thought that the chef would cook our lamb with care because the kitchen wasn't so busy. I was terribly disappointed. I just assumed that Icelanders don't eat lamb medium-rare and that was why we weren't asked about our preference. Read Less

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 24, 2007

Carpe Diem
Raudararstigur 18
Reykjavik
+354 552 4555

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Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

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Restaurant

Hot dog in Iceland Photo - Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, Reykjavik, Iceland

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Our Iceland guide books made such a big deal about Baejarins Beztu Pylsur that we had to check it out. It's a hot dog stand on Posthusstraeti, next to the Kolaportio flea market on weekends, and it's lauded by eager locals as one of Iceland's national foods.When we walked by before noon, the line was already long. They must be good hot dogs, right? I'm from New York City and we have Nathan's and Sabrett hot dogs on the streets. We have Gray's Papaya and Sparky's. But perhaps Reykjavik has a say, too. So we joined the queue and bought ourselves a hot dog - what they call "A Clinton" after Bill Clinton made a stop back in the days during one of his trips to the country. The verdi...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on May 24, 2007

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
Posthusstraeti101
Reykjavik, Iceland

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Kebab Husid

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Restaurant

Icelandic cod Photo - Kebab Husid, Reykjavik, Iceland

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Because Iceland is famous for its cod, the boyfriend became very interested in eating fish and chips after reading about the Kebab House. The name doesn’t scream fish and chips, but the writeup proclaimed it offered the best in the city. Because cod is plentiful in Iceland, I assume Kebab House had several chances to get them right.The downtown location closed after the building burned down in the corner of Austurstraeti and Laekjargata. We had to drive to their other location on Grensasvegur. We drove to what looked like a plaza mall before heading out to the airport. It felt like we were transformed to a London pub as soon as we walked in. All the TVs were on showing football games. Famous j...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 25, 2007

Kebab Husid
Grensasvegur 3
Reykjavik
354 588 2020

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