Having spent the previous two nights roughing it in a sleeping bag under the stars in the Mavrovo National Park and on the shores of Lake Ohrid at Struga and having had the most patiently slow of lifts down from near Gostivar to Ohrid from…Read More

Having spent the previous two nights roughing it in a sleeping bag under the stars in the Mavrovo National Park and on the shores of Lake Ohrid at Struga and having had the most patiently slow of lifts down from near Gostivar to Ohrid from an exceptionally heavy trek - a bit of luxury was called for.

That was found in Ohrid with some bottles of beer which helped me to work out whether I preferred Zlatan Drab or Skopsko (the two most common brands).

On arrival we hunted out a place to stay, numerous houses had the notorious balkan "sobe" (rooms) sign (written in cyrillic of course), the key was finding someone actually in. Eventually a landlady was unearthed and the top floor of a house complete with beds and a kitchen was astutely negotiated by my Slovenian pal in Serbian. What's more - she seemed obsessed with offloading as many tomatoes as you could imagine on to us.

Despite Ohrid's modest size, it is definitely worth hanging around the area a while. Macedonia (or FYROM if you don't want to annoy their nationalistic neighbours the Greeks!) is cheap, so you needn't worry about running up huge bills (although services are notoriously expensive for locals -electricty etc)- both food and accomodation is nicely priced, internet as well.

Having been part of various empires over the years and ruled by all of its neighbours at some time or another, Ohrid has plenty of remnants of the past with lots of archaelogical site with the vicinty. Ohrid was the religious and educational centre of Macedonia and to some extent Slavic nations in general - supposedly once housing 365 churches (one for each day of the year), there are still plenty of stunning old churches to admire for its size but considerably less than that. My favourite (and probably most people's) is Sveti Jovan Kaneo, perched on a small hill at the edge of Lake Ohrid - it's a great place to relax and admire both the lake and cuteness of the church.

If that's not enough there's a nice big fortress overlooking the city, it's a bit of a distance to get up there but the view is staggering. St. Cyril (whose work along with Methodius and one of his disciples Clement of Ohrid invented the cyrillic alphabet) is a popular figure in Macedonia and there's a decent statue here too.
Lake Ohrid itself is a warm swim in the summer and if you begin to circumnavigate it a little (not suggesting you do the whole thing!), you'll find a quiet place for a swim soon enough.

With all of that plus interesting monasteries and a choice selection of hiking paths relatively close, you really can't afford not to go to Ohrid. Ohrid doesn't have a train line but there's bus services across the country as well as coaches across Europe. Close

Skopje is probably the most attractive non-coastal town in the Balkans. A collection of white houses with red roofs nestled at the foot of the verdant Mount Vodno, on the approach from the airport it seems more like a medieval hamlet than a capital city.…Read More

Skopje is probably the most attractive non-coastal town in the Balkans. A collection of white houses with red roofs nestled at the foot of the verdant Mount Vodno, on the approach from the airport it seems more like a medieval hamlet than a capital city. Although it is home to over 25% of the population, at 500,000 people, Skopje maintains a quaint and relaxed feel that contrasts starkly with the other capital cities of the Balkans. With the Vardar river providing the central axis of the city, dividing into the historic (and Muslim) north side and the more modern (and Christian) south side, Skopje will provide any visitor with enough sites to keep one occupied for a couple of days and serves as a perfect base to explore the rest of the country. Being the financial and gubernatorial center of Macedonia means that Skopje is home to the country's best hotels, restaurants, and nightlife, but it is the old city that is home to the best shopping and sights.Skopje, Uskup (Turkish), Shkupi (Albanian), or Skopje (Macedonian), like the rest of the Balkans is a diverse city that reflects the turbulent history of the peninsula. The native Macedonians are of Slavic decent who entered the land in the 6th century, but 500 years of Ottoman rule definitely left its ethnic, linguistic and cultural marks on the city. Its close ties with Albania throughout history has meant that numerous Albanians have settled in the country, adding their own bit of flavor. When tragedy hit Kosovo, it was to Macedonia that many Albanians fled.Walking around the Old City of Skopje (called carsija from the Turkish carsi meaning "market") you can get a feel for the diversity of the city. Turkish restaurateurs hawk doner kebab, Albanian signs stand beside Macedonian Cyrillic, and mosques next to churches. The Old City is one of the best preserved in the region, having escaped the forced modernization that befell cities like Belgrade and Sofia. A series of shop-lined cobblestone streets and old houses on the verge of collapse make their way from the banks of the Vardar up to the kale (citadel). If the weather is nice, cafe patrons spill out onto the streets to enjoy tea or light lunches. Wandering through the streets you will likely stumble upon Sveti Spas, the only remaining monastery in Skopje and home to a stunning church full of frescoes and a gorgeous 10m wide, iconostasis made from intricately carved wood. Inside the monastery you will also find the remains of Goce Declev, the revolutionary leader and a museum dedicated to him and the revolt against the Ottomans.When compared with neighboring Greece, Bulgaria, or Serbia, Macedonia doesn't look back on Ottoman rule with complete disdain, and Skopje managed to escape the sort of radical destruction of Ottoman monuments nationalists undertook in other Balkan cities like Sofia or Thessoloniki. Thus, there are plenty of attractive mosques still standing, Mustafa Pasha Mosque, being the most impressive. Built in the traditional Ottoman style, its towering dome dates back to 1492. Back down towards the banks of the Vardar stands another impressive Ottoman monument, the 15th century Doud Pasha Baths, which are now home to the National Gallery. The Gallery displays some impressive works of contemporary Macedonian artists contrasted with the ancient walls and glass-speckled ceiling of the baths.Standing high above the old city lies the Kale, the old Ottoman fortress of Skopje. While not much beyond the walls remain, the views from the top of the city and the surrounding countryside are spectacular. There is also a restaurant from which you can have a drink and stare at Mount Vodno.Skopje's old city, while not terribly large, is an impressive reminder of the cities past and there is still some good shopping, especially in the Bit Bazaar, a mess of green tarps and people, infused with the smell of exhaust, where all sorts of random things are sold from make-shift stalls. As with any old city, the charm lies in just wandering around, taking your time, stopping for a bite to eat and pondering the effects of history.Close

So special and so significant is Ohrid that not only did UNESCO decide to declare the town a World Heritage Site, but the whole lake as well. The lake is one of the world's oldest, and at 938 feet, it is the deepest in the…Read More

So special and so significant is Ohrid that not only did UNESCO decide to declare the town a World Heritage Site, but the whole lake as well. The lake is one of the world's oldest, and at 938 feet, it is the deepest in the Balkans. Remnants dating back to the Neolithic age are proof that the area around this lake has been inhabited since almost the dawn of humanity, but it is the town of Ohrid, on the northeast side of the lake, that is the premier attraction today in the region, other than the lake itself.

I had arrived in Macedonia in mid-June, just as the country was starting to welcome in summer and people were waking up from winter hibernation. The country was in full bloom and the people were starting to make their weekend trips from Skopje down to the shores of Ohrid, and I decided to follow.

I was in Macedonia for a reason really beyond my own comprehension. I was living in Istanbul at the time and had decided to head over to the Balkans for a vacation, and Skopje was a cheap flight, so that is where I started. Having long been enticed by the sort of mysterious air that the Balkans exude, I was excited, but my first few days in Skopje, although interesting, left me wondering if this was really what the Balkans were all about. I was alone and having one of those moments that all travelers have at some point in time where I was wondering, "What am I really doing here anyway?" I hadn't been back in the US for a year and was missing the comfort of my home in Istanbul. I was at a complete loss of what to do, and then I heard about a place called Ohrid. All the Macedonians talked highly of it, but I had my doubts. Still, though, I picked myself up out of my rut, rented a car, and made my way down to Ohrid. As soon as I arrived, I remembered just why I was doing this.

The lush green mountains, carved out by glaciers millions of years ago, reminded me of the Green Mountains back at home in Vermont. The lake sparkled a brilliant blue-green, and Macedonian children were diving off docks and boats. The sun was shining and the people were smiling. I felt like I immediately belonged.

The city of Ohrid itself is a beautiful collection of cobblestone streets that wind their way up the hills on the side of the lake, lined with old houses, churches, and gardens. From the main square on the lake side, home to the cutest McDonald's I have ever seen (if there is such a thing), as well as street vendors selling mini donuts covered in chocolate and powdered sugar, the main street of Ohrid's modern city, Makedonski Prosvetiteli, bustles with the clamor of shoppers ducking in and out of the street's shops and restaurants. Cafe patrons spill out onto the cobblestone holding frosty glasses of Skopsko, Macedonia's national beer. You can follow this street back into the heart of Ohrid's modern city and the Zeynel Abedin Mosque, which is located right next to chinar, the city's 900-year-old plane tree.

When sunset comes, Ohrid's couples like to stoll down Marshal Tito Quay, along the lake toward the ex-Yugoslav ruler's summer residence, and watch the sunset. It is also in the neighborhood along the quay where you will find Ohrid's budget hotel options. As with the rest of the Balkans, renting rooms in someone's private home is the best option for the budget traveler. Houses with available rooms will post signs in Macedonian advertising soba, or "room." Many of the owners don't speak much English but are plenty friendly. A standard room with a shared bathroom/shower will usually run around $10, sometimes less, especially if it's empty. It would be a crime to not spend the night in Ohrid, but if you want to do it right, 2 nights at least are necessary. The region has way too much to offer.Close

When I told people back home that I had gone to Macedonia, most of them responded with inquisitive looks. "Macedonia is it's own country," they would ask. Many would assume that it was part of Greece or that the people in Macedonia were Greeks, and…Read More

When I told people back home that I had gone to Macedonia, most of them responded with inquisitive looks. "Macedonia is it's own country," they would ask. Many would assume that it was part of Greece or that the people in Macedonia were Greeks, and for good reason. When almost any of us think of Macedonia what do we think of other than Aleksandar III of Macedon a.k.a. "the Great" a.k.a. Colin Ferrell. Alexander, the great conqueror and Hellenizer who spread Greek culture all the way to India until he died from malaria, typhoid fever, poisoning or natural causes (depending on who you ask). So, many people have asked, why exactly is a country made up of a bunch of Slavs calling itself Macedonia and claiming Alexander as their own if he was such a great Greek? Well, that's a question that historians have been arguing over for years and that has caused a few international scandals here and there, and it is nowhere close to being solved. But if you are going to travel to Macedonia, you'd better know just what's going on because any trip to FYROM (that is: the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) wouldn't be complete without a brief discussion of the origins behind its ridiculous name and it's something you couldn't avoid if you tried. Books on Alexander stack the shelves at every bookstore. The Macedonians want to remind you just who they are, no matter what the Greeks have to say about it.

Even the most nationalist of Greek scholars would be hard pressed to claim that Alex was Greek and that the Macedonians are Greek in the same way as the Athenians, and if the man himself could speak today I am sure he would say the same. Nobody doubts that Alex, Philip and the other Macedonians spoke Greek and exported Hellenic culture, but as to what their native language was, that is divided. Some say they spoke a Slavic dialect and used Greek because it was the lingua franca of the day (most likely) and some say they were native Greek speakers (less likely). But both of these are outside of the real issue...

The real issue is what Macedonia means today, and what implications it has for Greece. Ancient Macedonia is spread out over what is now FYROM, Greece, and Bulgaria, with each country claiming to be the real heirs of Macedonia. In Greek Macedonia (north of Thessoloniki) today there exists a minority of Slavic peoples. They speak a language related to Macedonian and have existed in this land for millennia, but the Greek government denies their very existence. They are denied the right to speak their own language, be educated in it, publish in it and broadcast in it. It is officially illegal to talk about the Slavic minority in Greece. As a friend of mine once said, quoting a professor, the stance of the Greek government concerning the Slavic minority is "the only Slavs in Greece are tourists." Hardly the truth.

The name FYROM came about when in 1991 Macedonia voted for independence from Yugoslavia and chose the name "Republic of Macedonia." Greece, long fearing Macedonian nationalist desires to unite the Slavs of Greece with Macedonia were furious. They feared that the new Republic of Macedonia would fuel the flames of revolt among the Slavic minority, just as the communists did in the 60s. Greece pleaded to the international community to urge Macedonia to change its name. FYROM was the concession. It didn't go far enough for Greece, though, who forbade the use of the term or of Macedonia in newspapers and to this day many Greeks just call it "Skopje" (or more harshly, "the pseudo-statelet of Skopje").

Who would have thought that one little name could cause so much trouble? So if you are keeping track, the official, internationally-recognized name of the country is The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, but if you want to make some fast friends while in town, make a big fuss about how these Macedonians are the only true Macedonians and those wimpy Greeks are just jealous.Close

There are many tour operators who will show you the various attractions of the region in day tours that cost up to 10 dollars per head. We went with Zorpidis, whose phone number is 0374 54060. They took us to the Hanging Rock Monestaries at…Read More

There are many tour operators who will show you the various attractions of the region in day tours that cost up to 10 dollars per head. We went with Zorpidis, whose phone number is 0374 54060. They took us to the Hanging Rock Monestaries at Meteora, which have to be seen to be believed. These are huge, piercing rocks topped with Byzentine monestaries that can only be reached by climbing hundreds of very steep steps etched into the side of the mountains. There is another, more famous Byzentine Greek Orthodox monestary, Mount Athos, which we could only see from the outside via a cruise, as women are not allowed into the place, and men may only enter by appointment. This area is so sacred, it has its own independent theocratic government.Close

If you want to get away from the noisy and polluted town, you should climb the 1020 meter high mountain Vodno that is on the Southwest part of the town. This is a wonderful place to clean up your lungs and to get the best…Read More

If you want to get away from the noisy and polluted town, you should climb the 1020 meter high mountain Vodno that is on the Southwest part of the town.

This is a wonderful place to clean up your lungs and to get the best panoramic view of the town. It's best viewed at night, but it`s nice at daytime too. On the top,the Church, with the support of the Government, decided to put a 76 meters high cross as a symbol of Christianity and as a gift for the celebration of Two Milleniums of existance of this religion. At night it's illuminated, and you can see it from every part of the town. You can get to the top of the mountain by car, or if you go by daytime you can climb. But you must see this - it`s marvelous!!!