People ask me, "What is the one thing I shouldn’t miss when I go to Puerto Vallarta?" This is a tough question, as there is so much not to miss, but I find myself always saying the Malecon on Sunday evenings. First off, let me explain what…Read More

People ask me, "What is the one thing I shouldn’t miss when I go to Puerto Vallarta?" This is a tough question, as there is so much not to miss, but I find myself always saying the Malecon on Sunday evenings.

First off, let me explain what the Malecon is. Plain and simple, it is the boardwalk in the heart of town on the ocean. Beyond that, the Malecon on a Sunday night is almost a religious experience. It can also be depressing if you are single or alone as you stroll the boardwalk. I say this because I walked this pathway countless times either solo or with a girlfriend. We would be so depressed by the end of the evening we swore ourselves to marriage, children and big families. The reason; it is a lovers paradise for young and old alike. You can’t miss the young ones out with their friends, dressed in their best, smelling freshly showered and gussied-up, as my mom would say. They giggle, flirt, laugh and show-off for each other in hopes of finding that special someone. Then you have the young ones that found each other. They hold hands, kiss, take pictures, watch the sunset, and have this "We can conquer the world" look in their eyes. Next, you have the families that come and show off their children and babies. They share cotton candy, deep-fried bananas and buy balloons and trinkets as they stroll and laugh. Lastly, you have the old lovers who sit on benches, holding hands, not having to say anything. I always wonder if they are reliving their meeting on the Malecon some 50 years before. Many nights there are mimes, clowns, fire artists, or sand sculptures who perform for donations. Some are wonderful, some I just don’t get, but all in all, they add to the spice of the carnival atmosphere.

Usually, a few minutes after sunset, the Marigalante sets off fireworks by the arches. Earlier, the arches host folkloric ballet, mariachi’s, music, dancing or some type of colorful displays. You never know exactly who or what you may see, but always worth sitting on the bleachers and watching while enjoying some sort of confection from the food stands.

One of my favorites is the "spray paint artist". This guy is Picasso with a can of spray paint! He creates some incredible paintings for 100 to 200 pesos. Even if you don’t want a moonscape, he is worth a few fumes and over-spray to watch.

The Malecon on Sunday evening is a must do for anyone going to Puerto Vallarta, from first trip to 100th trip. Granted, it can be depressing when you are single, but chances are, enough strolls down the Malecon may find you a mate.

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While you may never step foot on mass transit at home, taking the bus in Puerto Vallarta is highly recommended. Not only is it dirt cheap, but it's fun, bumpy, and altogether worth the 4 pesos to get you around town. * the price raised to…Read More

While you may never step foot on mass transit at home, taking the bus in Puerto Vallarta is highly recommended.

Not only is it dirt cheap, but it's fun, bumpy, and altogether worth the 4 pesos to get you around town. * the price raised to 4 pesos January of 2002.

Gone are the days of chicken buses, although you may find someone selling treats or belting out a song while playing an instrument. I do recommend giving a peso or two for the entertainment. Many of the buses have names like "The Terminator", "Rambo" or "El Loco", but never fear, only grinding gears and hard hit potholes seem to be their real claim to fame.

Since the buses are "owned" by individuals, their tastes in decor reflect their personalities. One guy has a fondness for disco lights and fuzzy dice, another likes glitter and pictures drawn by his child. Most all have a picture of Jesus or the Virgin de Guadalupe to safe-guard their bus and passengers.

The buses are clearly marked with their routes or destinations. "Centro" gets you into town, "Sheraton" stops in the hotel zone on the main strip, and "Punta de Mita" takes you all the way north to the tip of banderas Bay, for a mere 18 pesos, and a very enjoyable hour long ride. Your hotel can tell you what bus to take to get to where you want to go. Buses usually stop running the "Nuevo" and "Punta de Mita" routes around 8:00 PM, while buses in town run until 11:00pm or so.

Don't worry about making a bus "mistake", such as going the wrong way, or the wrong route. I've done it myself, and I just get off and explore, then hop on a bus going the right way, or take a taxi to where I want to go. Sometimes these mistakes have turned into a goldmine. I've found some of the best shops, restaurants and beaches for my 3 pesos.

Why I like the bus:

3 pesos versus 30 pesos for a taxi adds up to two extra beers per ride:)
I meet more people on the bus than cruising around in a taxi!
A bus ride to my favorite beach, El Anclote, 18 pesos. A taxi ride to the same beach, $25.

A "mistake" going the wrong direction costs another three pesos for a different bus, finding the best shoe store in town because of my "mistake": priceless!

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I've always wanted to go to San Sebastion, so with help from JR and his tienda picture of where to buy tickets, my roommate, (a Mexico newby, since Juarez does not count as Mexico and my friend Gabriel who is bilingual, we set off to…Read More

I've always wanted to go to San Sebastion, so with help from JR and his tienda picture of where to buy tickets, my roommate, (a Mexico newby, since Juarez does not count as Mexico and my friend Gabriel who is bilingual, we set off to find the bus. We also opted for the 8:00am bus since we hit the sheets about 2:00am that morning. We went out on a limb and didn't buy tickets beforehand, so prayed we could get a seat. We got lucky, since the bus was only half full, paid 50 pesos each and off we went.

Everything was cool until we hit the one way dirt, or shall we say dust road, going through the mountains. Being a gentleman, Gabriel let me have the window seat. Being a gentleman, he let me have the aisle seat when I turned green. I am a wee bit scared of heights, especially when they involve a rickety bus, squeeky brakes and a death drop of at least 100 feet and no guard rail. Did I mention the 5 or 6 little rivers we had to cross? Now, let me remind you, this is dry season, and little rain has fallen, but there is still a good 10 inches of water running across the roads.

After almost 2 1/2 hours we finally arrived at Estancia, the cross roads of the two main roads. One to Mascota, the other to San Sebastion. As we exited the bus, Gabe asked the driver what time the bus left, the driver said "bus? The bus leaves tomorrow morning." Which of course threw me into a fit of giggles. I knew this and thought Gabe did also... but what the heck, it's an adventure, right?

Luckily, instead of walking, we hitched a ride with a 70+ year old Charro on his way to San Sebastion. I, being a lady rode shotgun and the boys in the back. We exited the truck 150 pesos poorer, but happy to not have lugged our packs for 10+ kilometers. Seeing San Sebastion for the first time sends you back in time. You could see the old charm, the small cobblestone roads and a town plaza that rivals any big city.

We decided to walk around a bit, and found a place to eat off the main road. Looked like a dive, but hey, they had gorditas on special and ice cold beer. We ended up eating 9 gorditas and two beers for a total of 76 pesos. We also got a history lesson and directions to the raicilla factory.

With our bellies full, we set off up the cooblestone road, and ended up at a dead end and a gorgeous hacienda. There was a couple of maids cleaning the rooms so we took a peek and fell in love. After taking some pictures and inhaling the clean mountain air, we set off, only to find the owner pulling up in his truck. I wanted to chat, and find out name, prices etc. so I could post it on the web-site. Gabe and the owner ended up talking for 10 minutes with Gabe translating for us. They were disussing the lack of tourists in San Sebastion, when Henry, the owner, looks at me and says in perfect, unaccented English, "I don't know why they don't come here since it so close to Vallarta." I am now rolling on the ground in a fit of giggles while Gabe looks sheepish. My roommate said it was just like a movie, and Henry seemed to really enjoy the experience. We ended chatting for a while and getting new directions to the raicilla factory. The Hacienda has been in Henry's family for years. He lived in L.A. most of his life and returned to his roots to start a small hotel. So far there is 4 beautiful rooms with full baths running about $40 USD a night. Well worth it in my book. Not much to do but breath, relax and enjoy nature at it's finest.

Since we were kinda stuck in San Sebastion, we went off to find some raicilla. Heck, we may as well be drunk if we are going to spend the night in God's country. After crossing a small river and almost getting ran over by two little boys on a wild burro, we needed raicilla more than ever. After a brisk walk, we came across two cows playing in a playground. One cow looked like it just slid down the slide, the other was grazing off to the side. (no we haven't drank the raicilla yet, we haven't even found it!) Low and behold, right past the cows was the joint. Adobe oven, a wooden table and bench, a small serving counter and big gate to keep us out. Gabe, being brave yelled for the owner. Being braver, he opened the gate. He tells me to stay back in case of guard dogs. Great. No owner, no dogs, no raicilla. So off we went back down the hill in search of coffee.

San Sebastion was a metropolis in the 1600's and supplied Tepic and other areas with goods. Today, it is much smaller, but still has many of the original buildings. One of its pride and joys, besides raicilla, is the coffee plantations. Once again, we got directions, this time to where to have some coffee. Our plan was to have coffee and decide where to bunk for the night. We could stay with Henry, or check out the other Hacienda, or check out the posada on the main drag.

We found the coffee shop, and the boys went inside while I tagged along behind. Lucky for me, as coming up the big cobblestone hill was........ yep, a taxi! I yelled for Gabe who whistled him down. The driver gave the finger-circle motion, which meant, "I'll be back after I drop my load". He came back to get us, and after our coffee we piled in for the ride home. The driver had never been to San Sebastion before, so he was a bit harried from the ride up. Not expecting any passengers for the ride home, he was happy with the 300 pesos we offered. We were happy to be on our way back to PV. I was thrilled that wishing for a taxi made one appear. Where is a lotto stand when you are on a roll?

Our beloved Mario Andretti drove like a maniac, thinking driving faster will make the road seem less dangerous. With only two near misses we arrived safe and sound from our adventure, alive, if not a little dusty.

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As we drove through El Pitillal, we wished aloud that we could see how a REAL working family lives in Puerto Vallarta, sooooo...... Archie arranged for us to visit a family high on a hill above Puerto Vallarta. As we drove through the small village- like area,…Read More

As we drove through El Pitillal, we wished aloud that we could see how a REAL working family lives in Puerto Vallarta, sooooo......
Archie arranged for us to visit a family high on a hill above Puerto Vallarta.
As we drove through the small village- like area, we saw washing hanging from lines on roofs, dogs wandering the dirt streets, and beautiful arching windows. Most yards were filled with beautiful flowering plants and sun/moon faces hanging on fences. We saw banana plants with bananas no bigger than our fingers, which we sampled at our new friends' home. We also saw papaya plants, still green and gigantic banana pods hanging from lush banana plants.
The children of the family we visited were ages 4 and 8, both girls. The lady of the house was under the weather a bit, but graciously allowed us to roam all over her home. They were shy at first when the gringo ladies descended on them, but warmed to us very quickly. They were proud to show us their home, from inside out and top to bottom. It was well kept and spacious, with concrete floors and walls of brick with white painted concrete lathered over the bricks. It is obviously a labor of love, as the bricks are layed by hand by the owner and his friend. With two jobs to handle to support his family, the owner must toil either early morning or late evening. It was wonderful to be able to see a home being built with so much love and care.Close

Horseback riding was available for an extra cost of 120 pesos on the Santa Maria boat tour to Quimixto. First, we snorkeled at Los Arcos (see my review on snorkeling), and after the trip to the waterfalls, lunch was served at La Caracol restaurant…Read More

Horseback riding was available for an extra cost of 120 pesos on the Santa Maria boat tour to Quimixto. First, we snorkeled at Los Arcos (see my review on snorkeling), and after the trip to the waterfalls, lunch was served at La Caracol restaurant at the Las Animas beach.

There were plenty of horses available to choose from and lots of personnel to help with the selecting of your mount and adjusting your saddle and stirrups. The horses were obviously used to being ridden by anyone and quickly made their way to the waterfall. The trail started in the small seaside village of Quimixto, which consisted of less than 20 shacks along a main road. From there, it crossed small streams, which had strategically placed stones and planks for those who would rather not get their feet wet, and wound ever higher up through the jungle towards the waterfall. At the waterfall was a restaurant or "beer trap," as some called it. You could not sit down in a chair to rest unless you ordered something. You had to pay 5 pesos to use the toilets, as well. Some people chose to cool off in the pool at the base of the waterfall, and others were jumping in from the sides. There were some spectacular views, and the waterfall was a sight to behold; however, the trek up and back was hot and very dusty for those who were walking, about a 35-minute trip each way. In January, the temperature was tolerable—this trek would be unbearable if the temperature was higher, as there was a fairly steep gradient to negotiate. If you were totally exhausted by the time you got to the restaurant, there were horses there that you could ride back for only 50 pesos!

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Not all are equally interesting!My favorite bus/tour company is: TB (stands for Transportes de la Bahia) Tours. So far, absolutely no problems. Everything they did was a cut above all the rest! TTF can be good, but they also missed our hotel pickup for…Read More

Not all are equally interesting!

My favorite bus/tour company is: TB (stands for Transportes de la Bahia) Tours. So far, absolutely no problems. Everything they did was a cut above all the rest!

TTF can be good, but they also missed our hotel pickup for two out of eight tours. If you have time, they will reschedule you, and you should ask for an additional tour free of charge to compensate for the inconvenience.

On one of my trips to the Huichol, the bus broke down (we were met by another bus within 10 minutes), and we were behind schedule. The guide assured us we would miss nothing, but then he skipped the Compostela side-trip I was looking forward to. (I later complained, and was given one of the higher priced trips to San Sebastian free of charge, no hassle). If something goes wrong on your tour, don't hesitate to talk to your booking agent or hotel travel agency.

Be careful which Jungle Tour you choose! The first one took us to a shopping mall for an hour, then toured the city, and finally arrived in the "jungle" (a couple miles off the main highway south). Another Jungle Tour travels south of Mismayolla and Boca la Tomatlan, and is very good. It also takes you up into the jungle at Mismayolla to visit "El Eden", Arnold Schwarzenegger's movie site for Predator. It is very pretty there, but be sure not to miss the little area to one side of the parking area with the bigger waterfall.

All tour guides on the longer tours are very knowledgeable about the areas they visit. I was told they must study and pass tests which cover history, culture, customs, flora and fauna, etc. All guides so far have spoken English, and usually two other languages.

They will often stop at a little stand along the road to buy fruit which they share. You are welcome to buy things there, also.

Vallarta Adventure Tours are good, but I felt their guides were more aloof. I did enjoy their Sierra Madre Expedition, and my daughter took that tour two years later and also liked it. Roads are bumpy, so if you have back problems or similar ailments, skip this tour!

Buses should always be air-conditioned, but may not all have a bathroom. In the off seasons, if only a few people sign up for a tour, a van may be substituted for the usual bus. I booked the Guadalajara bus tour, and a van showed up. It's not quite as comfortable but it was a small group so we stopped at a few extra places. It was almost like a private tour and was enjoyable after all!

Prices vary so ask around! Your hotel, friends, other tourists, they will know.

And, last, but not least, if you enjoyed your tour, tip the guide and driver. If you really didn't think they did a good job (happened to me ONCE only) skip the tip (and don't be embarrassed about it)!Close

Santamaria Cruise is something heavily promoted by touts or independent agents offering this for sitting through a timeshare presentation. They also sell these to people by itself for the suggested retail price of $50 adult, $25 kids 6-12. My partner was hawked by this several…Read More

Santamaria Cruise is something heavily promoted by touts or independent agents offering this for sitting through a timeshare presentation. They also sell these to people by itself for the suggested retail price of $50 adult, $25 kids 6-12. My partner was hawked by this several times. Another traveler told him she heard it being gotten for $25.

Another of these agents approached my partner about this 8 hour cruise for $45, my partner mentioned the lower price, without batting an eyelash, he quickly agreed to $25 per person.

The double deck trimaran boat departs from the Marine Terminal in Puerto Vallarta daily at 9:30am and returns at5:30pm. There's a 15 pesos entry fee everyone must pay separately in order to board the boat. Recommend arriving 45 minutes to an hour before departure to line up, pay, pickup tickets and board as the lines can get pretty long. There is local bus service here.

There's loud festive music to get everyone in the right mood. A continental breakfast is provided, so eat whatever you want with the scenery of the Puerto Vallarta skyline, sunshine, music, food, drinks and open bar on board for the journey.

Its first stop is Los Arcos Marine Park for some snorkeling (gear is provided) for those who are good swimmers. The crew tosses food overboard so the fish would gather around for you to see. But that particular day, the water was very cloudy and you couldn't see in the water.

Its second stop is Las Animas to enjoy the beach, sunbath, swim, drink at one of the beach bars, kayaking (equipment provided) or take one of the banana boat rides, jet skiing, and parasailing (optional at additional cost).

The last stop is Quimixto, a small fishing village where lunch is provided on the beach with advance notice prior to your arrival of your choice fish, chicken, or quesadillas. Drinks are excluded. A man was trying very hard to get me to agree to buy his silverware. The workmanship is good, but I had no interest to jewelery and no intent on handing over 1,200 pesos he wanted for it.

Afterwards, you may choose to either walk or rent a horse to go up a sometimes steep and hilly path to reach a waterfall, roughly 45 minutes to an hour each way. If you choose to walk, you'll need to remove your shoes and socks as you'll get your feet wet, and you'll need to walk back as well. Have a good pair of walking or hiking shoes/boots. Once you reach the waterfall, you'll get to relax for a bit in the water if you wish, take some photos, order a drink. And then head back. Or you may choose stay on the beach to enjoy or return to the boat.

The return trip on the boat for non-stop drinks and music to dance for the journey back is where this trip's dark side rears its ugly self and falls apart for me. Drinking games are played to encourage people to get drunk along the way, and prior to docking, is a big, strong push to give tips generously. You aren't totally trapped, as you can choose to go to the upper deck to at least get away from the drinking activities and it's a bit less noisy speakers are mainly on the lower deck. Let's get the gringos drunk and have them lighten their pockets for us before they leave the boat is the message I see.

Bring your camera, video, sunblock, sunglasses, hat, and pesos. I personally dislike the heavy promotion of heavy drinking, their drinking games, and their heavy hand at pushing for tips at the end and they just lower themselves doing so. The trip was fine till the drinking promotion on the return trip, and I would be less inclined to agree to go on this had I known upfront, nor can I recommend this even though a lot of people go on this heavily promoted cruise and a lot of people seems to have enjoyed it overall including myself. The choice is yours of course.

E-mail:

Telephone from US or Canada: 1-866-217-9704
Telephone from outside US or Canada: +(52) 322-222-4935
Telephone in Puerto Vallarta: 222-4935Close

After a few days at the beach, my partner and I were ready for something a little more adventurous than making buckets of Corona disappear. We decided on the El Eden Canopy Tour. We had been approached by several timeshare peddlers with a free ticket…Read More

After a few days at the beach, my partner and I were ready for something a little more adventurous than making buckets of Corona disappear. We decided on the El Eden Canopy Tour. We had been approached by several timeshare peddlers with a free ticket but decided the $65 price was well worth avoiding an afternoon spent listening to high-pressure sales. This was confirmed by a couple of our companions who, regrettably, went the free route.

The open-air (no sides or windshield) bus ride is an experience in itself; thankfully, there is a screen strategically placed as to avoid a mouth full of bugs. The bus takes you along the coast just south of Puerto Vallarta; it's about a 20- to 30-minute ride, but the scenery makes the time fly. Upon arrival at our destination, we were reminded numerous times that this was the location for the filming of the movie Predator. Our hosts made us feel quite safe and secure with the journey we were about to embark upon. Individual fittings were followed by instructions and a demo on how to operate our cable mechanism. A brief trek to our first "test run" cable gave us an opportunity to become familiar with the process of slowing down and/or braking before you get to the stop in front of you.

There are approx. 10 cable treks, each one longer and higher than the previous. The scenery could only be described as breathtaking; you definitely feel as if you're in flight above the trees and waterfalls below. It was quite obvious that our hosts enjoyed their jobs as they made sure the experience was enjoyed by everyone. We concluded with free tequila tasting, and trust me--if you're not a fan of heights, a few shots of tequila are just what you need after this adrenaline rush. This is definitely a tour we would both highly recommend; just be prepared for a bit of walking and uphill hikes. Our only disappointment was the short time afterward to enjoy the outdoor restaurant under the huge palapa, because we definitely worked up a hunger.

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We have visited Puerto Vallarta once a year since 1996 (and will continue each year from now on). With each visit, we bring someone who has never been to Mexico. One of the highlights of our visit is the Zoo Night Club located on the…Read More

We have visited Puerto Vallarta once a year since 1996 (and will continue each year from now on). With each visit, we bring someone who has never been to Mexico. One of the highlights of our visit is the Zoo Night Club located on the Malecon. We generally frequent this place at least twice during our stay and usually spend on average $50 for each night. It WAS a great place to visit.

Upon our second visit to the Zoo on 12-14-2005 for this week, we were treated extremely bad. Bad beyond belief! We were waiting for a "local" who was going to meet us there. He didn't show. Coronas were 2 for 1. We ordered twice for four people. We decided to leave when our "local" did not show up. When we received our bill, it was for $75 for 10 beers, of which we only received eight. So our Coronas were $7.50 each. In all the years that we have frequented this place we have never had such a high bill for this amount of liquor and for the wrong quantity!

When we asked about it, we were told that the Coronas were $7.50 each. Where was the 2 for 1? We were told that was the price. We tried to reason with this establishment with several people and they all stuck to the price and amount. We have never paid this amount, including our previous recent visit. Coronas were not $7.50 each that night!

So, needless to say, this is no longer on our list of places to go. Please be aware that you need to request a price of the drink you are ordering and be sure you get that price. We have never asked for the cost of a drink here, as we were ALWAYS SATISFIED with our bill. The only thing that could possibly be the reason for the high price was that we did not dance and were taking up room for the locals who wanted to party.

Buyer beware. We were certainly appalled at the treatment we received from this place. Needless to say, we will not be back and will do everything in our power to warn everyone of our ordeal.

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Tuesday, November 2 We were up early and back to the one property my roomie really wants for 97,000 pesos. It is very nice, but I could not deal with the two choices-120 steps descending from the upper street or 72 steps up from the lower…Read More

Tuesday, November 2

We were up early and back to the one property my roomie really wants for 97,000 pesos. It is very nice, but I could not deal with the two choices-120 steps descending from the upper street or 72 steps up from the lower street. Bid time is closing in, and he says he has been tossing and turning for a couple nights. I broke off and did some browsing, walking, and work, and then ended up at Brother-in-law Taqueria (El Cuñado) Francisca Rodríguez near Olas Altas (9am to 11pm Sunday, 9am to 6pm Tuesday).

His son Jorge and his brothers run this taco stand as part of a family enterprise. They have Taco de Maiz (corn), Taco de Harina (flour), Quesadillas with cheese, and meat. Adobado (pork) is wonderful. All can be topped with guacamole and salsa. Aguas frescas is also here. There is limited sidewalk seating. It is a quick, clean, and delicious meal on the run.

I returned to La Palapa and awaited two amigos from New Jersey. They got in a little late due to rain in Dallas, but were thrilled to be back in paradise and the same unit as 1 and a half years ago, which they felt had a super design, location, and ambiance, arranged through www.doinitright.com. We lounged on the balcony after they freshened up and unpacked, sipping cool drinks and chatting about what has been going down in all our lives. Then it was up to the pool with the 360-degree city/bay view for a long dip, sunning and meeting fellow travelers, especially my newlyweds new pals from San Francisco (we had visited their top floor wrap-around condo, which was a 7-day wedding gift, and it was fantastic), who have been dining at each top site in town and reporting to me every morning exactly what they had in minute detail, the prices (wow!), and the quality. Tops has gone to Cafe de Artistes, which was followed by La Palapa surprisingly. They were too hyper for even a short siesta after a long and delayed trip on two planes, but wished too dine early partially due to the lack/quality of airline food, so all of us headed to Rodolfo Gomez 127 near Olas Altas (223-4676; www.mexonline.com/cafebohemio.htm; pvx2@prodigy.net.mx; open 5pm to 12am, but closed Sundays, some holidays, and most of September).

In an open square near Hotel San Marino, it is run by Chris May and Sol Rosenshein, from Palm Springs, California. It has a varied menu, all very reasonable and pleasant. There is alfresco dining, and you may have to wait for a table. It has become the area's hot spot. It has Mexican and American fare with a flair! Almost all entrees are at or below 100 pesos. Daily specials included the New York steak, Coconut shrimp with mango sauce, mussels, grilled fish, combo fajitas, chicken saute or mole poblana, meatloaf, and Cherry Cola barbeque ribs, which all include cup of soup du jour. There was a decadent brownie ice cream sundae, New York cheesecake, or flaming flan for 35 pesos. Many martini and margarita concoctions were from 49 to 59 pesos. Our hosts were congenial and happy to be reopened after their time off, as were the customer-packed tables. I went home for more talking, turning in fairly early.

Wednesday, November 3

We were all up very refreshed, even I who so thoughtfully agreed to sleep on the sofa. I was off for an uphill hike to a small house, which can be rented, in the lower Amapas area. It was quite nice-it had a little view, but was clean and two stories high. It would be great for 2 to 4 people. She also has a small studio for a 6-month rental. I thought long and hard of dropping everything and returning to her studio for 6 to 12 months! We all met up after various sojourns and walked to Restaurant Row, deciding upon a fond fave, Café de Olla (Basilio Badillo 168 OT/SS.; 223-1626; open 9am to 11pm, but closed Tuesdays and mid-September to mid-October). This family-run spot, for years, has seen their place expand, overhead fans added, and prices rise. It features large trees and whimsical artwork. It is a great stopover for simple authentic Mexican fare, like a barbeque or Mexican combo platter, octopus in garlic , steaks, carne asada, ribs , chiles rellenos, tacos or tostadas, best combo enchiladas, chicken , twice-baked potatoes from the outside grill, tasty tortilla soup, and guacamole. A meal includes good chips, salsa fresca, and nopales (cactus) salad. It is loud and busy in high season, with long lines that move quickly and are sociable! No reservations accepted. We strolled up and down and all around, peeking into shops; making small purchases; planning for returns later; and taking in the wonderful sights, sounds, and smells. There were five senses working on high level. It was the last day for one amigo, and he made his latest bid on the condo after nail-biting misery in the late afternoon. Now it is out of his hands. What will be will be. He can do any follow-ups by email and faxes from home.

We spent a lot of time up at our refreshing pool, mixing with people from all walks of life, many newbies to this territory and other longtime aficionados of Puerto Vallarta, as I am. Some are young parents with a couple kids while others were two catamaran yacht owners who had traversed the eastern Mediterranean after the Bordeaux, Barcelona, and Rome harbors. That couple will soon be off to Lebanon, Syria, Egypt, and Israel, port to port with a long line of yachts, and when moored, the owners will attend dinners, tours, and parties hosted by government heads in promotion of their tourism. It is a fascinating lifestyle, unlike mine, and even though I graciously volunteered, I was turned down! Imagine.

Wednesday, November 3…cont’d

By vote of 4 to 0, we headed to where one amigo had never ventured, a travesty, for his last night-Las Carmelitas, Rancho Camino a la Aguacatera (km 1.2 Arriba del Tunel Grande, 303-2104, 293-3112, 222-0845, info@lascarmelitas.com, www.lascarmelitas.com, open from 1pm to 11pm). High on the hills, 1,000 or more feet high and overlooking the town, it’s a place to go watch another lousy sunset in paradise. A 50 pesos (per person) entrance fee is deducted from your bill, imposed to keep out visitors who only come for the view. Owner Petro is a hands-on farmer. His fare is fairly ordinary, but with that astounding view, who cares? There are mesquite grilled meats, such as tasty arrachera, shrimp, garlic fish, and chicken breast, which includes grilled green onions, a cactus salad, salsa, guacamole and chips. Greet the waiter, Antonio, for me. Drive a van or take a taxi (80 pesos) and have the cabby come back at a prearranged time for pickup, or they will call one for you. Treat him to a cerveza or café and tip well. They do not venture up the dirt roads in the rainy season. Take a camera and a lover or friends. He expanded the cliff-side restaurant area. We found out the hard way that one is charged an additional 40 pesos for having Petro call a taxi, as the driver charges extra for the trip up and then the trip down, just be aware, but it was no big deal. It was a fitting finale for one person's trip through time in Puerto Vallarta. It was a spectacular evening gazing at the tiny twinkling city and bahia below, even though we missed the sunset due to misjudging the time of sunset after daylight savings started. If you arrive during daylight, climb the rickety steps to this vista point for Kodak-moment photos, which you will record nowhere higher in the area! If it gets a wee chilly at this elevation, fear not, serapes arrive to warm the shoulders of the delicate souls. A local Huichol plies some folk art handmade by her people at remarkable prices. It is hard to resist a stone mask for 40 pesos or an earthenware woman with pan or maiz for 50 pesos. Soon we are whisked below and back to the bustling, pulsing small city, rather a shock after such a blissful time in the clouds below the Sierra. Sigh . . .

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