XcaretI had high expectations when booking this all day excursion, especially with price of admission being equal or close to Disney land, all and all at the end of the day it was completely worth it. My first time at an eco-park it was probably…Read More

Xcaret

I had high expectations when booking this all day excursion, especially with price of admission being equal or close to Disney land, all and all at the end of the day it was completely worth it. My first time at an eco-park it was probably the coolest expericnce I’ve had, how many times can you say you’ve snorkeled through an underground river for more than 45 mins straight, if that wasn’t enough I also found 10 pesos while diving through the river. The park had it all exotic animals like jaguar, tapirs etc. There’s no way to completely enjoy the park in one day without feeling rush rush and who wants that on their vacation, we started with a off shore private snorkeling trip. During the snorkeling trip, we were treated with seeing a starfish and a few turturles, the waves were a bit rougher, yet the visibility was good.


We took a tour bus out to the park it was about an hour or so away, the Rain was pouring the entire time and got us worry but the tour guide prompted us with it just "liquid sunshine". The bus stop a few times to pick up people which I found strange considering we already paid a good sum for the tour.

If you forget eco friendly sunscreen or water proof camera don't fret, they usually have some on the bus and although it cost more you're paying for the convience. Upon arrival the guide gave us a good rundown of the place and even provided us with top 10 list of things to do at the park.

We wasted no time and book the snorkeling trip, it was around $45 per son but worth it, you get a private boat ride out to a secluded location and a diver escorted us to the wildlife under the sea including a very fast turtle, that swam vigorously. I try chasing it for 5 mins but look around and decided to rejoin my group. If you have a waterproof camera this is the perfect time to snap under water shots.

Our Tickets came with meals so we made over way back to the center of the park for a nice festive mexican buffet, with live music! The mariachi even took request from the audience, best of all we had front row seats, literally. The food was only okay, wasn't expecting much but it was hearty meal with a lot protein to choose from.

The dinner show was spectacular, and it displayed the origins of Mexican people and celebrated with wonder songs, a true musical, the dinner was good also. It's amazing to see so much action without all the hollywood stunts or special effects, I enjoyed the mayan ball court match, both side score once, and even included a flaming ball at one point.Close

After recovering from our plane rides we decided to take a day trip to the majestic island Isla Meurejes, we flirted with the idea of getting a professional tour but decided against it and just ventured out to the ports. The departure times were not…Read More

After recovering from our plane rides we decided to take a day trip to the majestic island Isla Meurejes, we flirted with the idea of getting a professional tour but decided against it and just ventured out to the ports. The departure times were not accurate from the website and we missed the ferry by a mere 20 mins. The driver was kind enough to take us to Port Juarez, and we got to see a part of old down town. The ferry was colored in brigt neon color blue & yellow, and even provided us with free wifi access (if only I had an iphone).

After arriving at the the island we were greeted with more than 12 tour guides offering snorkeling lessons, numerous water activities and golf cart and moped rental. We ducked away quickly into a clothing store with a Frogger theme. We explored the island in style with mope, that I proudly haggled downed to about $20 for the entire day, plus we got extra 1.5 hrs past their normal closing time. It took a few minutes getting use to the controls and balancing act but after successfully making a few turns and getting pass speed bumps I felt natural on the bike. Note: Helmets are required, there’s a lockable trunk under the seats for storage. A driver license was held as deposit.

I’ve have to admit it was pure exhilarating fun when cruising around in a 2 wheeler, my close friend suggested we take the safe route and rent a golf cart but I knew from the get go the bike was the clear alternatives. Coming from the west coast this mope will not work, and would be banned on the freeway, but on this small island of less than 5 miles stretch it was the perfect vehicle.
Our first destination was close due to construction so we rerouted ourselves to a turtle shelter. For a mere 30 pesos you could leisurely stroll through giants tanks containing babies turtles, giants albino turtle and observe the turtle egg grounds. It was worth every pesos. Don’t forget to check out the tiny gift shop on the way out.

We started getting hungier after crusing up and down the coast, ironically it had the same resemblance of the highway 1 in the west coast of California, of course, the water was never this clear or rich turquoise color.
We stop by randomly at one of the beaches and bought some freshly handmade coconut ice cream from a wandering vendor, he was also kind enough to snap of photo of us with his ice cream cart. There was a dirt path and we followed it down to the beach, after admiring the rock formation and listening to waves we hopped back onto the moped and continued with our journey south.
When it was time for dinner, we had recalled the taxi driver (from cancun) recommending anything seafood and going with the flow we chose to dine at a bed and breakfast joint. With all honestly, we were the only couple in the restaurant and had the perfect ocean view, and the lobster was the best I had in a long time. My friend had the coconut shrimp to go with our margarita, served chilled, as the sun was setting a took a few snap shots (see my money shot).

After dinner, we made our way to only ruins only the island. We were surprised to find out it had an admission fee of 30 pesos, after using all our cash on dinner, we only had a handful left. Fortunately the officer at the gate let us through with only paying a small portion, it was extremely windy when we toured the area the ruins to worship the goddess of moon & fertility Ixchel was in bad shape and only a few slab of the ruins remained. There we were less than a few pennies in our wallets yet we were as happy and carefree as we could be, after touring the site we made our way back into the city and return the bike, a vehicle that satisfied my adventuring spirit.
Close

Driving our rental car from Chichen Itza into the bustling city of Merida, one thing struck us immediately...this city was beautiful. And very colorful. I wanted to grab my camera right away and start capturing the beautiful pastel color combinations.After settling down in the hotel…Read More

Driving our rental car from Chichen Itza into the bustling city of Merida, one thing struck us immediately...this city was beautiful. And very colorful. I wanted to grab my camera right away and start capturing the beautiful pastel color combinations.

After settling down in the hotel we were staying, Luz en Yucatan, we put on our walking shoes and headed out to meander in the city center. Small enough to easily find your way around, but large enough to have plenty to do - Merida was a lovely stop during our Mexican vacation, and I'm glad we got to explore for a little bit there.

In the center of town are a few lovely squares, the main one being flanked by restaurants, cafes and shops on 3 sides and the large cathedral on the 4th. The cathedral is worth a quick look, as is the side chapel which houses regular prayer services. Avoid the main tourist sidewalk cafes and shops directly on the square, as the prices are inflated, but you don't have to walk too far down a side street to find better, more authentic options.

On Sundays, there is an outdoor market/fair called Mérida en Domingo in the main plaza. Eat, people-watch, and shop... and remember that hammocks are this region's specialty, so if you want to bring a hammock back from Mexico, be sure to shop for one here. Look for a good, tight weave, and material made from agave (not cotton)...as agave won't shrink and some say helps in repelling moquitos.

A unique thing to notice in this town, are small plaques on the street corners. Normally placed on the side of the corner building, these small signs display images and funny old Spanish descriptive names for the streets (as the official street names are all numbered). These names were passed down from many generations past and have significance with someone/something or an event that happened on that street.

Overall, Merida is a lovely stop for a day or two, as there are many things to wander around and explore, although not too busy, it's a great place to slow down a little and just see what you come across.Close

Following are a few recommendations from a recent trip I took to Puebla Mexico. Puebla is a lovely non-touristy colonial city full of friendly people, beautiful architecture and delicious cuisine. I recommend visiting in August when the weather is perfect during the day…Read More

Following are a few recommendations from a recent trip I took to Puebla Mexico. Puebla is a lovely non-touristy colonial city full of friendly people, beautiful architecture and delicious cuisine. I recommend visiting in August when the weather is perfect during the day with rain showers at night. August is also the season for the regional dish of Chiles en Nogada, a complex dish of chiles stuffed with a meat and fruit filling and topped with a vanilla nut sauce. Tastes much better than it sounds!

I stayed at the lovely eight room Mesone Sacristia de la Compania boutique hotel. The location can't be beat and is within walking distance to the Zocalo and historic center of town. The rooms are filled with antiques. It's like staying at your great aunt's house and I felt cozy and safe. The staff were friendly and helpful and very attentive to a woman traveling alone. I took several cooking classes at Mesone Sacristias and it was the highlight of my trip. They also can arrange other classes such as; photography, Talavera pottery making and tours. Meals are served in their courtyard restaurant and they have a full bar with entertainment on the weekends. www.mesones-sacristias.com (address: 6 Sur 304, Centro Historico, Puebla, phone 52 (222)232-4513.)

I had an in-room massage from Gaby Breton of Medical & Spa. Gaby and her staff provide massages to guests at many of the boutique hotels which do not have their own spa. She is professional, brings all her own equipment and speaks English, as she spent a year studying English in Cleveland, Ohio. It was quite convenient to have the massage in my room and her charges were very reasonable. She just opened her own spa and can be reached at:
L.A.E. Gabriela Bretón S.
Directora General
Medical & Spa
HOSPITAL PUEBLA - Consultorio 811
Priv. de las Ramblas No. 4 Desarrollo Atlixcáyotl C.P. 72197
Tel: (222) 4 30 24 36
Cel: (222) 4 96 00 72
Nextel. 72*688802*1
pueblamedicalspa@hotmail.com
www.hospitalpuebla.com.mx

A great tour guide in Puebla is Gerardo Vasquez. Gerardo has a masters degree in tourism and speaks English, French and Spanish fluently. He is knowledgeable and professional and I enjoyed his company and commentary. He also provides airport meet and greet service and tours to surrounding areas of Mexico. He can be reached at: gvastorga@yahoo.com or (044)22 23 06 88 01.

If you need a coffee fix head for Zaranda Cafe at Av. Juan de Palafox 412-A in Puebla (near El Parian craft market). They roast and grind their own coffee on site and the cafe has a modern upscale appearance. In addition to coffee drinks they have pastries and wi-fi. I purchased coffee beans to bring home as gifts. Prices are very reasonable, I paid $3.90usd for a 500 gram bag of coffee roasted and ground to my specifications.

If coming from the USA, I suggest flying directly into Puebla. Continental Airlines provides direct flights from Houston. It's a small, clean airport and even with going through Customs and Immigration, I was in and out very quickly. On my way home I flew out of Mexico City which should be a two hour drive from Puebla. Unfortunately, my driver and I were stuck in a flood and the main highway had been washed out due to mudslides from the rains the previous night. What ensued was a nearly three hour adventure through flooded mud covered streets and bumper to bumper traffic. My driver was terrific! He did his best to try and get me to my flight on time. He is a professional driver in Mexico City and I highly recommend him. He has many corporate clients. His name is Domingo Patino, telephone 044 553 043 2764.

I speak Spanish fluently and I didn't hear much English spoken in Puebla. The city is delightfully laid back and free of high pressure vendors and timeshare hawkers. The architecture and history are wonderful. Chapel of the Rosario is well worth a visit, it is stunning. The cuisine is the best i've tasted anywhere in Mexico and the prices were well below what one would find in a tourist destination. I felt safe during my entire week in Puebla and can't wait to return.Close

Costa Maya was our second and final port of call of our 5-day Western Caribbean cruise on Royal Caribbean Cruise Line. Costa Maya is a relatively new town that was built specifically for tourism in 2001. Its popularity as a cruise port of call was…Read More

Costa Maya was our second and final port of call of our 5-day Western Caribbean cruise on Royal Caribbean Cruise Line. Costa Maya is a relatively new town that was built specifically for tourism in 2001. Its popularity as a cruise port of call was climbing fast until Hurricane Dean, a Category 5 hurricane, destroyed it in August 2007. Almost a year passed before the town was able to get back on its feet. Today Costa Maya has a colorful plaza with souvenir shops, restaurants, swimming pools, and performers. All this is nestled beside a beach with turquoise waters. There were rocks that made wading into the ocean impractical but a large saltwater pool made up for that. I was really pleasantly surprised with Costa Maya.

Our ship, Grandeur of the Seas, was the only ship docked at the port that day. There is quite a distance from the ship to the plaza at Costa Maya. A complimentary trolley is offered for those who need or want to use it. It was a beautiful March day with temperatures in the low 80’s; therefore, my wife and I decided to walk.

We had to save our browsing of the plaza for the afternoon since we had booked a morning shore excursion to the Mayan ruins at Chacchoben. My first impression of the plaza was all the bright colors: boldly-colored buildings, the blue swimming pool, the turquoise waters of the ocean, etc.. All this was accented by the vibrant costumes of the dancers performing to Mexican music. Costa Maya does a nice job of creating a kind of fantasy land for the visitors. If you are looking for an authentic cultural experience, you are not likely to find it here. You’ll need to sign up for a shore excursion that takes you beyond the gates of the plaza.

My wife took some time to do some shopping while I relaxed in a hammock on the beach. The vendors in Costa Maya were a little more aggressive than the laid-back ones we encountered in Belize the previous day but not to the point of annoyance. U.S. currency is accepted in the shops of the plaza. The prices seem to vary greatly, so it is best to haggle a little or shop around. My wife saw a dress that interested her. She was initially told it cost $85 but she was able to talk the man down to $25.

Before long, it was time to head back to the ship to begin the journey home. We had really enjoyed our day in Costa Maya.
Close

My Last Mexican Riviera Cruise Sometimes I think that the nicest thing Princess does for its passengers is the cold towels it provides when we return from a warm weather port. And it was warm in Acapulco today. It was warm, not hot, only mid…Read More

My Last Mexican Riviera Cruise
Sometimes I think that the nicest thing Princess does for its passengers is the cold towels it provides when we return from a warm weather port. And it was warm in Acapulco today. It was warm, not hot, only mid 80’s but the humidity is rough on those of us unaccustomed to it.

Fortunately, Rudy arrived in a large air-conditioned van to pick us up and was waiting on the pier when we cleared security. Born and raised in Acapulco, it shows he is being this for many years so his English is very good and easy to understand. We started the day with a tour of Fort San Diego, which is right across the street from the pier. Originally built in 1516 to protect Acapulco from pirates and any other invaders from the sea, it has a moat which used to contain water and alligators to deter trespass.

After a drive through the Golden Zone of Hotels, restaurants and beaches, we went to the Chapel of Peace, to get a close-up view of the cross that looks out over Acapulco Bay. The Chapel is beautiful, with windows of onyx, and gardens of tropical plants. While we waited in the cool courtyard for Rudy to park the van, Fred got a chance to make the acquaintance of the first of three cats we encountered in Acapulco. The Chapel is not accessible by tour buses, which makes it a very peaceful, refreshing place to linger.

I was amazed at Rudy’s ability to navigate that van through the narrow backstreets of the city on the way to the Old Town, where we made a stop to pick up a battery for Fred’s watch and a little shopping before heading to the other side of Acapulco for some dramatic views of the harbor. The surprise of the day, for me, was glancing out of the van window and seeing this incredible mosaic on the garden wall of a house along the way. Rudy stopped the van and took a few pictures for me from her window while she explained that a couple of years before Diego Rivera died, he moved into the Acapulco house of his friend, Dolores Olmedo, to recover from an illness. When well, he created the mosaic mural. It was a total surprise and one I will long remember. I didn’t know that any of his work was even in Acapulco, much less displayed on a wall on a side street.

After our scenic stop we headed to the Miradores Hotel for the cliff divers, and arrived shortly before the 1:00pm show. When I was a child John Cameron Swayze used to do a commercial for Timex watch showing one of the divers making a dive with a Timex watch strapped to his wrist. The theme was, "Timex watch, takes a licking and keeps on ticking." I couldn’t stop thinking of that commercial. The tour was very enjoyable if you would like meeting him just Google or Yahoo his name Rudy Fregoso Acapulco and you will find him. Our final stop was the Flamingo hotel where the movie stars all stayed. Rudy even got us out to the round house that was renamed the Casa Tarzan in Johnny Weissmuller’s honor.

In case you might be wondering, we were well pleased with Rudy’s tour and would highly recommend his services to anyone traveling down to Acapulco on either a Panama Canal or Mexican Riviera cruise.
Close

Veracruz sits in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, it normally has a very hot and humid weather, being south of the Tropic of Cancer at sea level.Year round dress code includes t-shirt, short, sandals and maybe a cap or hat.…Read More

Veracruz sits in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, it normally has a very hot and humid weather, being south of the Tropic of Cancer at sea level.
Year round dress code includes t-shirt, short, sandals and maybe a cap or hat. But during Winter months there are the "Nortes" or "winds from the North" some of them can reach gale force and be unpleasant and a bit dangerous, a "regular" one can have winds of 80 km/h and gusts of over 110 km/h. but strangely, local people continue their lives as if nothing. Me as a tourist was trying to stay inside at all times but life keep flowing almost as normal. The biggest problem with such strong winds is that it carries lots of sand, so if you stay out in the street for a long time, you won't need to get a "peeling treatment" at your Spa, you skin will be sanded for free, so your bare legs and arms but it's a bit harsh, so beware and carry a handkerchief to cover your nose and mouth and your sunshades.
Fortunately "nortes" are very well know in the area and people gets early warning a couple days before they strike the area, this is one of the few times meteorologist don't go wrong.
When a Norte is striking the best thing you can do is enjoy the food at one of the numerous excellent restaurants, visit the aquarium or go to the movies. The rest of the attractions may be open but you won't enjoy them as much, the majority of them being at open air.

BTW, if you hear that a "Surada" (winds from the South) is coming , it means you will enjoy warm winds coming from the Equator. They normally are not as strong, but you should always be alert.Close

Starting with the construction of the Hotel El Mirador in the 1930s, the fishing and seaport city of Acapulco has been a growing tourist attraction for Norte Americanos and other tourists from Mexico and around the world. From the 1950s through the 1970s it…Read More

Starting with the construction of the Hotel El Mirador in the 1930s, the fishing and seaport city of Acapulco has been a growing tourist attraction for Norte Americanos and other tourists from Mexico and around the world. From the 1950s through the 1970s it was the vacation resort in Mexico. Since then, the blossoming of tourism in Cancun, Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan has eclipsed some of Acapulco’s shine. Which was something that brought me there in late 2008.
Newer hotels line the Bay in the Golden Zone, and the shore further down the coast beyond the mountains is becoming a vast city of glitzy resorts. My own choice was Alba Suites in the "traditional" section, out on the peninsula. English is a second language here, where most of the guests are from Mexico or nearby countries. The streets are mainly residential, and time share vendors hardly ever venture to come. It’s Mexico.
There’s a lot to offer in Acapulco. Nightclubs abound, and there are fishing cruises, parasailing and diving. We skipped all that. After a non-stop year our plan was to kick back for a week, do some photography, catch up on some reading, sleep and togetherness.
We did take the day trip to Taxco. Having been there 20 years ago, we wanted to revisit and see what had changed. See the related article. Also see the movie Treasure of the Sierra Madre.
The advantage and the disadvantage to being out on the peninsula is the isolation. It’s a bus or taxi ride to the Golden Zone or even to the city center. Casa de cambio (exchange house)? What’s that? Everybody out on the peninsula already has his own pesos. And that is the end of the disadvantages.
Five pesos (about 40 cents) gets you a bus ride into town. Waiting for a bus? You don’t even need an egg timer. The privately owned and operated (and government subsidized) buses sometimes seem to come down the street nose to tail. No need to buy a ticket. Just hand over some pesos and get change on the spot. More comfort? Take one of the VW taxis for a few pesos more. Stick out your hand and flag one down.
Walking distance (about a half mile for us) from the hotel is exiting Caleta Beach with its booming restaurants and marvelous sand. Be prepared, however. Alba Suites is on a cliff overlooking the bay, and the bus does not go up this hill. Burn of a few calories from your Caleta Beach meal.
The view from Alba Suites is absolutely stunning. The view from our balcony took in all of the bay, including the adjacent yacht club and nearly the entire city on the opposite shore.
Grandfatherly Advice
The Web site Acapulco.com is an excellent source. Prior to our trip we booked the Taxco trip and airport transportation through companies listed there. See also Fred Meulemeester’s site at http://www.fredsphoto.on.ca/acapulco2.htm. Fred heads down to Acapulco on a regular basis and likes to share his experiences and tips.
If you want to get away from that mid-west blizzard, this is the place. The tour salesman in Acapulco told us December is too cold. We begged to differ. T-shirts were soaked with sweat after a few minutes of afternoon walking. Good news: Evenings in Acapulco are invigorating. Our balcony at Alba Suites was ideal for breakfast, a late night snack and even lunch.
Get some pesos. American money is good, but cash register drawers want local money. If you stay out on the peninsula you will need some pesos for the bus to get into town to get some pesos. We solved this problem on arrival by hiking down to the hill to the main street and buying groceries from a local store. They took dollars at a reasonable exchange rate and gave pesos. The many casas de cambio in the Golden Zone give varying rates, but the best we found was Consultoria Internacional. It’s right on Costera Miguel Aleman toward the down-coast end of hotel row. There are Oxxo stores (Mexico’s answer to Seven-Eleven) everywhere, and they take dollars. However, Oxxo’s business is selling stuff and not changing money. Be reasonable and buy a bunch of stuff.
The hotel will change money. You do not want to do this. When the official rate was 13.5 pesos to the dollar, Alba Suites was giving 9.5. Consultoria Internacional was giving 13.0. Oxxo was giving 12.8. Rates (except at the hotel) updated daily as the dollar settled in for a long winter’s nap.
Take the bus. Nobody lives forever. The route is marked in tempera on the front window. You want the Caleta, Hornos, Zocalo route. You do not want the route that includes "Rio." This takes you on a detour through narrow city streets. Fares vary. I once gave the driver ten pesos (for two people), and he gave me a peso change. I saw another bus charging 5.5. One bus was air-conditioned. Most are not, except for the special tourist buses.
Regular shared-ride airport shuttles do not go out to Alba Suites. It’s an extra charge, and it’s not a shuttle. We booked two round trip fares in advance for a total of $90 plus Texas sales tax.
We booked our hotel, airport transportation and the Taxco day trip on the Internet and paid in U.S. dollars.Close

If visitors to Oaxacan cooking school La Casa de los Sabores came away with nothing more than great recipes and a gastronomic meal rich in unique herb- and spice-accented flavor combinations that are the hallmark of Oaxacan cuisine, they would leave fully satisfied. But a…Read More

If visitors to Oaxacan cooking school La Casa de los Sabores came away with nothing more than great recipes and a gastronomic meal rich in unique herb- and spice-accented flavor combinations that are the hallmark of Oaxacan cuisine, they would leave fully satisfied. But a visit with owner and chef extraordinaire Pilar Cabrera also inspires and sates travelers with a sensual day-long immersion into sights, sounds, smells and, yes, tastes and time-tested recipes of southern Mexico.
As always, a recent culinary odyssey with Pili, as she is known, began at La Casa de los Sabores first thing in the morning – at 9:30 a.m. Over the next few hours, she introduced me and the others in the class to the wisdom and experience of her great matriarchal culinary tradition. Pili learned the basics and the subtleties, including the mysteries of the famed seven moles, from her grandmother, who learned from her grandmother before her. She is a Oaxaca-born master of southern Mexico cookery as well as international epicurean trends, capable of sharing the secrets of preparing the most multifarious meal with novice and expert alike – in English and in Spanish.
Our day began with Pili's informal talk about the menu and the foods she was going to introduce us to in one of Oaxaca’s colorful markets. The extra attention to the key ingredients of Oaxacan cuisine kept us spellbound. "What we will achieve today with the chilis," she told us, "is hot and tropical … with the Chile de agua, you will see we use it not only for flavor but color as well, and I will teach you how we keep this beautiful, brilliant green."
Once prepared with this knowledge, we all embarked on a shopping trip to the well-known marketplace, Mercado de La Merced, armed with multihued bolsas – market bags – to carry the compras – purchases. Pili had readied a partial shopping list, but, she advised us, she always adds "surprises," such as fresh foodstuffs which peasant women from the mountains sometimes bring down.

"When you have a chance to find something real special or unusual, you buy and incorporate into the comida," she explained. "Today, for instance, we look for mushrooms, because they grow so beautifully in the rainy season. Also, we will see what kind of fresh fruit we can use for the dessert."

Her insights into the unique stores and small factories enriched the short walk to the market. A rich bouquet drew us into a mill that was making chocolate from scratch. As Pilar told us about the ingredients – cacao, cinnamon, almonds and sugar – the owner welcomed us with, "do you want to taste?"

The lesson began in earnest when Pilar began methodically searching through the indoor and outdoor portions of the marketplace and exchanging pesos for its plethora of fresh produce.

"Look at that lady sitting there, what she has in those bowls," she said. "She just brought those raspberries and blackberries from the Sierra Juarez. We can use them for the dessert. Notice how fresh and beautiful. The mushrooms beside them, see the size, how big and the bright orange color … this is the time of year, but not for our recipe today … Over here, we don’t buy the big green tomatillos. I prefer the little ones grown locally because they are not acidy like the others, and they have much more flavor, perfect for the salsa we are preparing today."

She encouraged us to smell the herbs as she explained their use in particular Oaxacan dishes. "Today we use this hierba santa for the mole," she said as she was examining samples of the fragrant leaf until she'd found the best and freshest for storage in one of our bolsas. "But we also use it to wrap fish and make tamales."

Lynet who had been in Puerto Escondido on the Oaxacan coast for six months, expressed the wish of many as she lamented, "I wish I’d been in this class at the beginning of our trip."

Our enthusiasm and our appetites grew once we returned to Doña Pili’s well-equipped, spacious kitchen. Its wide counters, food preparation island and eight-burner gas stove opening onto the lush courtyard dining area made this cocina into an ideal classroom.

While we were reviewing printed recipe sheets for the dishes we were about to prepare, she displayed our purchases in baskets filled with the components of each recipe to help us learn why we bought what. Then we spent the next two hours preparing a sumptuous four-course meal.

Mary, her sous-chef, did preparatory work such as halving limes, slicing chilies and preparing chicken stock and poultry for the mole, freeing Pili to teach us the rituals and secrets of Oaxacan culinary seduction. Sparks from Pilar’s hearth of experience ignited even the most learned in the class as she pointed, touched, and passed around each item we purchased, telling us how it would be incorporated into the meal.

Once the actual cooking began, she put her bilingualism to good use, giving instructions and asking questions in one language, then repeating it in the other, as required by some of her visitors. "Necesito otro ayudante para quesillo, I need another helper for the cheese." Pilar might as well be a Maestra de Español, a Spanish teacher to boot.

Everyone learned each task and participated in the preparation of virtually all menu items. And as the group peeled, diced and sautéd, Pili's gems of information flowed on.
We learned much more than how to achieve flavor. Pilar taught us techniques on how to attain desired tones and textures: "A lot of people ask me about cleaning mushrooms," she said at one point, demonstrating the correct technique. "Now watch to see how we clean and seed this kind of chili," she pointed out while preparing chile guajillo for the mole. "Once we start cooking these chile de agua, we need to remember to always check them and turn them constantly."
"Look for the hot part of the comal … now this is when you know when to turn it over," she said while demonstrating the art and science of making tortillas.

Every once in a while a new recipe rolled off the tip of her tongue as we worked … other dishes we could prepare with this particular mole; different fillings for the quesadillas such as potato, chorizo or huitlacoche, the exotic corn mold ... the texture we would want for the corn masa if we were making tamales rather than tortillas.

Soon, aprons removed, we were ready to feast. But first – "now before we sit down, remember in the market I told you there were two types of gusano worm? Here they are, so who wants to try?" she asked. "Now know about mezcal. Taste this one Alvin brought, and tell us how it seems to you. Here’s another kind. What do you think is different about this one?"

We sat down at a table exquisitely set with local hand-made linens, dishes and stemware. Bottles of Mexican and Chilean red wine were already breathing. The fine music of Oaxacan songstress Lila Downs serenaded us in the background.

Pilar reminded us that her grandmother and other relatives usually prepare their comidas with meat and all vegetables mixed together in the mole, a plate of rice on the side, and a bowl of broth. But our meal, like all the recipes she prepares with visitors at La Casa de los Sabores, would be her modern take on all the elements and flavor combinations of the best that contemporary Oaxacan cookery has to offer.

It was a celebration of every ingredient. We began with wild mushroom, onion, tomato, chili and cheese stuffing in the quesadillas de champiñones (mushroom quesadillas), complemented perfectly by smoky salsa verde asada (green sauce from the grill) served in its molcajete. Then it was time to calm our palates with bright yellow crema de flor de calabaza (cream of squash blossom soup), garnished with a drizzle of real cream, toasted calabaza seeds and indeed fresh squash blossoms. The main course or plato fuerte was mole amarillo – tender slices of chicken breast atop a sea of aromatic deep saffron-colored mole, accompanied by a medley of crunchy-fresh steamed vegetables. To conclude, arroz con leche (rice pudding), speared with a length of wild vanilla bean and crowned with berries that had been picked only the day before.

I left convinced that the grandest chefs at the most trendy Manhattan beaneries would be hard-pressed to compete with this petite Oaxaqueña's ability to marry the region’s complex cooking with post-modern attention to color, texture and flare. For Pilar Cabrera, it comes naturally. For the rest of us, it comes with a visit to her home.
Close

It's not really so terrible.... but I always breathe a sigh of relief when I finally step into my hotel room !! My favorite airline to Puerto Vallarta is definitely Alaska Airlines. They are usually on…Read More

It's not really so terrible.... but I always breathe a sigh of relief when I finally step into my hotel room !!
My favorite airline to Puerto Vallarta is definitely Alaska Airlines. They are usually on time, and have many direct flights that arrive at a convenient hour. Also, Alaska seems to have frequent sales.... and my airfare has ranged from $202 to $588 for a round-trip flight in coach. I usually book several months in advance if I know what dates I will be travelling. Yes, a cheaper airfare COULD come up, but the price could go higher just as easily.
When we arrive in Puerto Vallarta at the Gustavo Diaz Ordaz International Airport, the plane does not normally taxi up to the building. Instead, it stops a little way out and a bus is sent to transport passengers from the plane to the terminal. (It may... or may not..... be air-conditioned.) After passports are checked, it is a long walk to the baggage claim area. Then you must proceed through customs. Ahead of you is something that looks like a small traffic light..... if you press the button and it turns green (this happens most of the time) you walk through customs and out the door. If it turns red your baggage will be inspected and you will have a short delay.
As soon as you clear customs you will be besieged by many people all talking at once. Do your best to ignore them !! They are condo salesmen. If you have arranged transportation to your hotel on the Internet, they will even lie to you about being your driver. Proceed to the main area of the terminal and you should see your transportation person holding a sign up with your name on it. If you did not arrange transportation there are taxis and vans outside, and you may buy a ticket inside at a booth near the exit door. They are regulated as to the lowest fare they can charge. They charge per person for these taxis, unlike the taxis in town. Be prepared to pay quite a bit to get to your hotel, but this is the only transportation that is priced so high.
Once you have unpacked at your hotel, you may wish to venture outside... or to the grocery store if you have a condo. You may take a taxi for less than $5, or you may walk, or take the local bus for about 60c (as of Jan-2013). I usually take the bus or walk to the store, and hire a taxi for the ride back if I have several bags. Many drivers speak English. IMPORTANT: BE SURE to settle on the price BEFORE you get into any taxi !! Taxis are very reasonable in town, but will charge more at night when the buses stop running around 10:00 pm. In early 2008 I paid $4 US for a fairly long taxi ride. ($6 US in 2013) You are not expected to tip taxi drivers.... the local people don't... but you may if you wish.
It is easy to get around by bus in Puerto Vallarta. They write destinations on the windshield in big white letters.... for example: Hoteles. Buses do not stop on the Malecon, but will stop near the 2 bridges in Old Town at the south end of the Malecon. If you are travelling north, Woolworth's is a good place to catch the bus. It is 2 blocks east of the northern end of the Malecon.... turn up at MacDonald's.
If you would like to visit Guadalajara or Mexico City from here, I strongly urge you to choose the ETN Line. These are luxury buses with only 24 roomy, reclining seats per bus. I think it is the only line to serve you a welcome lunch. The 2 bathrooms are very roomy, and tea and coffee is available at the back of the bus during the trip. The bus is air-conditioned, has plasma TV screens, foot rests, and a controlled speed limit (governor). I rode this bus to Guadalajara-- the trip took about 4 hours, and was very relaxing ! I paid about $40 US. We arrived at an enormous bus terminal in Guadalajara, and one of the many waiting taxis took us to our hotel with no problems (about $10 for a 30 minute ride).
Another option would be to fly to Guadalajara from the U.S., and then take this bus to Puerto Vallarta. The bus system in Mexico is excellent.... DON'T be afraid to ride the buses !!
Note: As of Jan 2013 Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta are considered 2 of the 3 safest cities for tourists in Mexico.... and Cancun is the third. I believe they are referring mainly to violent crimes. I feel Puerto Vallarta is VERY safe at this time, and would travel there alone! I think the other 2 cities have more petty crime and muggings.Close