Visions of snowy mountain peaks, monasteries, crowded streets & temples enter ones mind when Kathmandu is mentioned. The name Kathmandu comes from a Sanskrit compound of words meaning Kashtha (wood) and Mandap (house). This is what I went in search of and found. The…Read More

Visions of snowy mountain peaks, monasteries, crowded streets & temples enter ones mind when Kathmandu is mentioned. The name Kathmandu comes from a Sanskrit compound of words meaning Kashtha (wood) and Mandap (house). This is what I went in search of and found. The capital of Nepal stands at 4600 feet and the city has 2 1/2 million people. The city is focused on tourism and has a history that dates back over 2000 years. Hinduism and Buddhism are mostly worshiped here. Kathmandu is a link to those wanting to climb the tallest peaks on earth, to explore the culture and to visit the 7 Heritage sites within the Kathmandu Valley.

I had signed up for a tour of Nepal but wanted extra time on my own to visit this historic city. Places like Boudnath, Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple), Thamel, Durbar Square and Bhaktapur were some of the sites within reach of Kathmandu. My first experience after arriving at the hotel and setting out on foot was disturbing with the pollution, traffic, honking horns and crowded streets. The atmosphere is quite stifling but there is also character and life to the area. Everyone is friendly while they try to get you to buy whatever it is their selling. "Come and look, it is free to look" is their chant.

From the stupa at Boudnath with it's prayer flags waving, to the busy streets of Kathmandu and the amazing architecture of Bhaktapur, the sites, the smells and the mountains in the distance beckon you to walk and immerse yourself into the amazing culture and history of Nepal.
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On Altitude NavigationNavigating on mountainous terrain is very different from doing so on flat ground. In the last, a compass is very important because usually few landmarks are visible. Knowing the path, directions and distances becomes then crucial. On the mountains, the situation is different.…Read More

On Altitude Navigation

Navigating on mountainous terrain is very different from doing so on flat ground. In the last, a compass is very important because usually few landmarks are visible. Knowing the path, directions and distances becomes then crucial. On the mountains, the situation is different. Navigation in the Everest region is not very difficult. The trekker can always climb to the nearest ridge and get views of vast territories that would usually contain many landmarks. The higher the trekker is, the higher peaks he’ll see; most of these have very well known features. This makes finding the correct path a breeze.

Direction and distances are less important and less reliable while on the mountains. Slopes should be accounted for while calculating distances, and that’s difficult while on the windy field. Terrain may change and demand making lengthy detours that would transform any planned path into obsolete.

While navigating on the mountains, the important thing is the landmarks. Note which mountains are to be seen and from which side; which rivers are to be crossed; are they white water streams?. Check out if any of these has special characteristics (Mount Ama Dablam has a very distinctive shoulder, a glacier wall is near the Pyramid and so on). Villages and monasteries are easy to identify. Nepal is densely populated; on a territory which is roughly a third of the Bolivian one (Bolivia shares many geographical features with Nepal) live roughly three times as many people. That means that even in remote mountainous regions villages appear at least every few hours allowing an easy verification of the location.

On the Everest region, most days can be easily walked without the help of a compass. At the strategic level things are clear. However at the tactic one things can get complicated. On some spots there is no clear path and the trekker must take decisions. "I’m on this saddle and must reach that summit – what’s the best path?" is the most typical dilemma the trekker would face. It demands more common sense than navigation experience. Good shoes are more important here than a sophisticated GPS attached to a specially dedicated satellite. A sturdy walking stick is sometimes better than an electronic altimeter.

Under such conditions, the best approach is making a general plan for the walk planned for the next day – when the expected weather can be reliably guessed – but considering the plan just as a good base for changes. That’s an integral part of the freedom experienced in a trek; attempting to walk according to a rigid plan is unreliable. Instead, learning the areas’ main features and attractions is the key for enjoying the experience.

At high altitudes things can change fast. The day I reached Kala Pattar it began snowing before I left. At first the snow was sporadic, but that was enough to hide the path, especially since the last crossed a glacier and frozen ground. For these situations having a map and a compass is essential, though nothing replaces a good understanding of the terrain being crossed. I knew there was a glacier between the Pyramid and Kala Pattar, thus when I reached its edge I just crossed it without checking the exact location and although the path seemed to advance along the glacier’s side. Knowing where I was going was the single most important fact for the successful navigation.

On Gadgets

The temptation to take GPS devices is big, yet probably misplaced. Relying on gadgets that may malfunction (bad batteries, no recharging facilities, lost satellite contact, etc.) instead of on one’s skills is an error. Simply, trusting GPS and maps is not always possible. The terrain may have changed since the map was drawn: small streams may change course, old paths may be covered by vegetation or landslides, other unpredictable events may occur. Nice paths on the map may not be visible on the terrain; the trekker must be prepared to find the correct path relying on alternative methods.

One of the favorite topics among trekkers in the Everest Region is what’s Kala Pattar’s exact altitude. There are as many answers as sources. Moreover, all the trekkers equipped with measurement devices get even new answers. Consider this before buying an expensive gadget and becoming totally dependant on it for finding your path.

Part of the problem is that extreme weather conditions affect the function of these devices and in the low pressure conditions of the Everest region the weather is extreme at all times. Sudden winds can change air pressure quickly and significantly and lead to fluctuations in the measurements. (That’s way many reports state they are an average of x measurements on given conditions.)

Now it’s time for the trek.
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What could be simpler? A bag with a trillion items surrounding it; just throw everything in and go trekking. Mountains, skies, freedom. A few days later it becomes clear most of the items were not necessary, and that the extra towel left behind was essential.…Read More

What could be simpler? A bag with a trillion items surrounding it; just throw everything in and go trekking. Mountains, skies, freedom. A few days later it becomes clear most of the items were not necessary, and that the extra towel left behind was essential. Moreover, your back is in pain because the items were distributed in the wrong way. Bag packing is an unusual form of art, but it is one nonetheless.

I do recommend splitting the equipment in two backpacks. The big one should be carried on the back and would contain items not needed on a short notice. The second should be small and contain items that may be needed in a hurry. The best is if the small one can be attached to the bigger one or carried on the chest, allowing the trekker more flexibility.

What to Take

The list of items to take for a trek is tricky. It depends on its length, path and season; each one of these parameters defines different needs. Yet, some items and principles are common to all options.

A sleeping bag is one of the most important items, especially during the last days of the trip when the temperatures drop quickly. The beds provided by most guesthouses along the way are rather basic and not suited for cold weather. A convenient solution is to reach Namche Bazaar without a sleeping bag and to rent one there before climbing any higher.

A thin fleece is another very important item, it would provide a very important protection from the weather once the 4000m line is crossed and yet it is light and can be fold really small. A related item is a waterproof and windproof jacket. Its lack of inner insulating layers is important; the trekker would generate enough heat while walking. Moreover, the smaller it folds the better. Both items can be purchased in Thamel (see that entry).

Take enough clothes to change in the case of a disaster (like getting wet to the bone, or slipping on a muddy surface) but neither too much nor too fancy. Nobody expects a trekker to dress up for a high tea at a Nepali teahouse or a gala dinner at the nearest village.

A well-insulated, one liter plastic bottle and iodine tablets are essential. The last can be purchased at KEEP (see that entry). An insulating sleeve that allows attaching the bottle to the small backpack is recommended.

Maps, guides and compass should all go in the small backpack. The same goes for a small knife, spoon and torch; basic sanitary items are a must. LED based torches are more energy efficient and thus better suited for a long trek in isolated areas. Paper items should be protected so that they don’t get wet. The best is to find a small backpack with pockets near – or in – its bottom and to wrap the items with plastic in such a way that they can be easily retrieved.

Sunglasses, sun hat and a protecting hat for cold weather are essential. Make sure the sunglasses are fit for a high solar radiation environment.

How to Bag Pack

The order in which certain items are put in the backpack is important, even crucial. Heavy items should be placed as low as possible in the big backpack. otherwise this would cause back pains and instability while walking on difficult terrain. What are heavy items? Few people realize this, but paper is relatively dense when compared with other items a trekker carries. Books should be put first and at the very bottom of the backpack.

A real problem is how to deal with a rainy path. The event would occur almost for certain, and the trekker must be ready to deal with a couple of hours under the rain until a shelter is reached. Most important is to have plastic protectors for the backpacks. If they came without covers, those can be easily purchased in Thamel. Second, walking with rain dropping on the head is unpleasant, at least after a while. Carrying an umbrella is on the verge of ridiculous and extremely uncomfortable because the shoulders are strained under the backpacks. Covering oneself with a plastic sheet is a big error; the micro-climate created within the plastic would nearly cook the trekker. The best solution I found is covering the head - but not the face - with an extra towel carried especially for that purpose around the neck.

Laundry is a problem. If arriving to the village where the night is spent after dark, then doing laundry and expecting to leave the next morning with dry clothes is unreal. The solution is to carry enough clothes for a few days of walking and then doing laundry at the villages where an altitude acclimatization stopover is taken. Another point strengthening this recommendation is that in all the popular stopovers there are laundry services offered. See the Altitude Trekking entry in my Everest journal for details on these stops.

What are all those straps on the big backpack for? Depending on the model, the backpacks would feature an array of straps at sometimes strange places. Get acquainted with their use. The point is to get the backpack attached as tightly as possible to the body so that it doesn't move while walking. If it moves it would unbalance the trekker and may even cause accidents. These types of activities are what evenings at a guesthouse in the mountains were made for.
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Food is a big part of the cultural landscape of Kathmandu. The Newars, one of the original ethnic groups in Kathmandu, are especially known to celebrate countless festivals year round, almost all of which involve feasting on gourmet food. A typical Newar feast includes some…Read More

Food is a big part of the cultural landscape of Kathmandu. The Newars, one of the original ethnic groups in Kathmandu, are especially known to celebrate countless festivals year round, almost all of which involve feasting on gourmet food. A typical Newar feast includes some 16-course vegetable and meat dishes marinated in tantalizing spices, along with rich yogurt, fruits, and sweets.

On average, people eat four full meals (breakfast, lunch, supper and dinner) in a day along with multiple snacks throughout. When you visit someone’s house, it’s a tradition that they offer you tea and some snacks. People enjoy having relatives over at their house and preparing food for them. Being home after a long absence, I would make rounds to my endless list of relatives, and on every visit I would be offered, and sometimes even forced to, have something.

A typical lunch or dinner consists of rice, lentil soup, a selection of vegetables and meat (no beef), homemade sauces, and salad. Food is usually less heavy, though spicy, and flavorful. The most popular snack food includes MoMo (Nepalese dumplings), Tibetan noodles, pizza, and burgers.

It’s remarkable that obesity is not a major health problem in Kathmandu!
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Not Trekking in Nepalby Dave Underwood Talk to anyone about a trip to Nepal and the focus turns to treks through exhilarating mountain panoramas and visions of exhausting uphill battles, smelly feet and thermal underwear. True, Nepal claims eight of the world's ten highest mountains and…Read More

Not Trekking in Nepal
by Dave Underwood

Talk to anyone about a trip to Nepal and the focus turns to treks through exhilarating mountain panoramas and visions of exhausting uphill battles, smelly feet and thermal underwear. True, Nepal claims eight of the world's ten highest mountains and is a "Mecca for trekkers". But it also shelters a cultural landscape as diverse as any on the planet. A landscape often overlooked by the casual visitor.

A Third World country in the 21st century, much of Nepal still resists the 20th century. A melting pot of more than a dozen ethnic groups speaking fifty languages devote themselves, in harmony, to two of the world's major religions, Buddhism and Hinduism. Their legacy is an incredible architectural and artistic history displayed with pageantry and colour in year-round festivals.

The nation's capital, Kathmandu, sits at the centre of a fertile valley measuring barely thirty-by-thirty kilometres and ranging in altitude from 1,500 to 3,000 metres. Outside the city the landscape gives way to terraced farmland and a smorgasbord of medieval villages and ancient sites where time stands still.

Its size, accessibility and abundant attractions makes the Kathmandu Valley an ideal destination for those wanting to explore Nepal's cultural riches. And the best way to do it is on foot. There are even some walks to keep the trekkers happy!

THE WALKER'S BEST FRIEND
Nepalese believe the shortest distance between two points is a straight line, even if there are five hills in the way. Your greatest ally is a reliable contour map - it shows you what you're in for. Here's how we used it to plan our walks:
1. Mark the places to visit, identifying those within walking distance of each other.
2. Link destinations to form walking tours, taking note of the contours. These show the altitude change during the walk and any hills you'll encounter. Plan your walks to minimise the uphill bits - it's much more fun!
3. Use different towns as convenient accommodation bases. This allows time to explore the communities and meet people at a relaxed pace.

ON THE TRAIL
Expect contrasts and experiences to challenge your senses when you're exploring. Here are a few tips to make you better prepared:
1. Nepal's history is built on trading. The country is covered in footpaths and there is always more than one way to reach your destination. Ask directions if you're not sure, locals love to help.
2. Allow time for diversions. Don't expect to walk more than 15 kilometres in a day.
3. You won't experience altitude related breathing difficulties on valley walks.
4. Pollution is a problem. For the clearest views, best conditions and countless festivals, visit in the months immediately following the monsoon - around October to December. The valley becomes a dust bowl as the dry season progresses, and travellers with respiratory problems will experience difficulty.
5. Consider using local guides. They'll show you sights you may otherwise miss and often include an entertaining history lesson. $10-20 a day is an accepted rate.
6. Begging children are everywhere, usually asking for money, books or pens. If you want to help, visit local community institutions like hospitals, schools and orphanages, and make a donation. You will sometimes be given an impromptu tour and meet the person in charge. These experiences can provide the most rewarding memories.
7. Use a water purifier and pump straight into a collapsible plastic water bottle. It's easy, convenient, cost effective and responsible. Nepal has no recycling facilities, so buying water in plastic bottles doesn't help.

The Kathmandu Valley spoils travellers with a bounty of cultural riches in an environment largely unaffected by mass tourism. Grab a map and plan your journey - there are some suggestions in this journal to get you started. With a little luck you might even have time left for a trek!

CHECK OUT THE HAND-DRAWN MAP PROVIDED WITH THIS JOURNAL FOR LOCATIONS OF THE DESCRIBED WALKS AND POINTS OF INTEREST AROUND THE VALLEY.

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Where Have All The Freaks Gone?by Dave Underwood "Let’s check out Freak Street first. It sounds like fun, and the guidebooks say it’s right in the centre of the old city," I said to Karen. We were on our final approach to Kathmandu, Nepal’s ancient and mysterious…Read More

Where Have All The Freaks Gone?
by Dave Underwood

"Let’s check out Freak Street first. It sounds like fun, and the guidebooks say it’s right in the centre of the old city," I said to Karen.

We were on our final approach to Kathmandu, Nepal’s ancient and mysterious capital. Mt Everest and the entire Eastern Himalaya stood before us like sentinels, armour glistening in the midday sun.

"Do you think we’ll see any?" I asked.
"What?"
"Freaks. I wonder if any of them are still there."
Karen looked confused and turned back to stare out the window as the seat-belt light flashed on.

Sculpted fields and clusters of mud-brick houses passed beneath us. Brightly clad women in saris of scarlet and gold paid no attention, and the sun reflected from gilded temple roofs as we stopped outside a newish looking red-brick building. We grabbed our packs from the jumble sale of luggage spread around the terminal floor, changed some money, and joined the queue to clear immigration.

STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE
Outside the terminal building groups of touts circled like crazed lemmings, trying to attract dazed travellers to their taxis. We joined three other adventurers, the five of us pouring into a four-stroke Japanese shoebox.

Our Nepalese navigator delivered us, via several detours and a stop for petrol, to New Road, which leads to Freak Street in central Kathmandu. One of Freak Street’s original hippie-haunts, the Century Lodge, was our first stop, and they had some rooms available.

Freak Street’s real name is Jhonchhen, meaning "line of houses", but it’s rarely called that. It begins where Ganga Path, a continuation of New Road, meets Basantapur Square, and heads south for half a kilometre through one of the city’s oldest communities.

Christened Freak Street in the late 1960s, it became the gathering point and centre of the universe for the world’s hippies in search of peace and happiness, assisted by a colourful palette of mind-altering substances. It was home to an exciting array of hashish shops, cheap and colourful restaurants and hotels, and the many outrageous "freaks" who gave the street its name.

The Century Lodge was built in 1972 to cater for these psychedelic journeymen on their overland pilgrimage. Today it’s an atmospheric, ramshackle guesthouse with low ceilings, carved teak windows, and a central courtyard that’s home to a few potted plants and the owner’s pet doves. There is a well-stocked library and the cutest little lhasa apso called Lucky. Lucky’s got bad cataracts now, but she still rushes around greeting everyone with the enthusiasm and slobber of a puppy.

A CITY WITH SOUL
Doves continue to sing into the fading light of dusk, and somewhere nearby there is the sound of traditional music. The sweet smell of clove cigarettes and hash is in the air. This exotic cocktail seems to tease distant memories from the walls of the Century Lodge, but we didn’t see any freaks. Plenty of laid-back budget travellers and the occasional aging hippie, but no freaks.

The days were spent exploring the old area of Kathmandu. The city is large, but the region of interest to most travellers is only a couple of square kilometres, bordered roughly by the newer tourist centre of Thamel in the north, Kantipath in the east, and the river to the west and south.

This is where the city was born, and where you will find Kathmandu's soul. At its centre is a small area surrounding Durbar (palace) Square, where the ancient marketplaces of Indra Chowk, Kel Tole and Asan Tole are linked by a narrow street that marked the start of the trade route to Tibet.

This district is home to a maze of lanes and paths unchanged since medieval times, used by millions of traders over the centuries, and still used in much the same way today.

In the evening we would become voyeurs, vigilant in our search for the elusive freaks. Upstairs in the Cosmopolitan Restaurant, on the eastern side of Basantapur Square, we dined on momos, curry, rice and noodles. We drank delicious lassis and shared pots of lemon tea. And we watched.

As the light faded traders turned their attention from their craft and produce stalls to preparing the evening meal. Lanterns were lit and distributed around the square, cows settled in for the night, and the scene took on a distinctly medieval atmosphere. Still no freaks. The occasional bearded and beaded hippie with a shoulder bag and Nikon camera. But no freaks.

Sometimes we would take a late-night stroll around the district. We would usually end up at the Snowman, a wonderful little café-cum-restaurant that serves the best cakes and pastries in the area. It’s a cozy, eclectic place with loads of ambience, tailor-made to its Freak Street surrounds. Surely we would meet some of the area’s namesakes here. Nothing.

MAYBE SOME HASH WILL HELP
"You want hash, best in city? Maybe change money, best rate, just for you?" "No thank you," I said, dodging another pile of smouldering garbage and its obligatory pack of mangy dogs on the scrounge for food.

Further on is a group of homeless beggars, somehow still asleep under a few pages of the Kathmandu Post on this frosty five-degree morning. Like the dogs, many of the poor are horribly disfigured, diseased, or both. This city is a constant assault on the senses, a paradox, seemingly on a crash-course with the 21st century while some of it still struggles with the 20th century.

In Durbar Square produce is traded at a furious pace. Women thread garlands of marigolds to be used as temple offerings, rickshaws roll by, and all around us people busy themselves with the morning chores of washing, praying and socialising.

We bought bananas and mandarins, and climb the 17th century Maju Deval temple to sit with a cup of delicious chaiya (sweet milk tea) and watch the day unfold. For over an hour we watch. Clearly, the freaks don’t go to the market either.

KATHMANDU'S BROCHURE FACE
Frustrated, but not beaten, we decide to visit Thamel. A 20-minute walk north of Durbar Square, Thamel is the name given to a one square kilometre collection of districts that has replaced Freak Street as the city’s tourism capital.

It’s cleaner and slicker, jam-packed with traffic and people, and home to a range of services common to any commercial centre. There are no smouldering piles of rubbish here, no groups of itinerant beggars and society misfits, no open sewers and bands of scavenging dogs. It’s an exciting place, and moves to a frantic buzz of activity and noise without losing too much of Kathmandu’s exotic personality. But the prices are higher, the pace faster, and the atmosphere a little contrived.

We relax in an upstairs restaurant, catching the midday sun and dining on (surprisingly) exceptional pasta as we watch the crowded intersection below. There are cyber cafes, travel agencies, bars, bookshops and even pool halls. But definitely no freaks.

REVELATION! THE LEGEND SURVIVES
Back at the Cosmopolitan that night, we chat with one of the owners, Santa Dongol, as we contemplate our last night in the capital. We have decided to move on tomorrow and explore some of the Kathmandu Valley.

"Have you enjoyed your holiday in Kathmandu?" asks Santa. "Very much. We like the city. It is very different for us," we explain. "And we like Freak Street more than Thamel. It’s a good place to stay, but it must have changed a lot. All the freaks have gone." Santa smiles, "It hasn’t changed that much. People still come here for the same reasons they did 30 years ago."

It took us a minute to appreciate what Santa had said. He was right. We were looking too hard. The freaks hadn’t gone. They had been replaced by a new generation of earth-children, young and old, seeking similar enlightenment and still pursuing the path to peace and happiness. Thirty years on they didn’t seem so freaky, but they were still here. Freak Street was alive and well, just a bit tamer than it was.

Then the power went out.
"Don’t worry," said Santa. "This happens for a couple of hours every Tuesday here, and on Sunday in Thamel."
Outside, in Basantapur Square, the lanterns cut defiantly through the gloom as a tall, thin man, resplendent in a kaftan, beads, beard and plaited hair strolled barefoot through the crowd.
"That’s weird," I said to Karen.
"No," she said. "That’s freaky."

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The 220 mile trek around the great, semi-circular, multi-summitted Annapurna massif takes some 20 days to complete and is one of the classic journeys through the Nepal Himalaya. Starting amid lush, sub-tropical rice-paddies the route follows the course of the Marsayangdi Khola (river) on primitive…Read More

The 220 mile trek around the great, semi-circular, multi-summitted Annapurna massif takes some 20 days to complete and is one of the classic journeys through the Nepal Himalaya.

Starting amid lush, sub-tropical rice-paddies the route follows the course of the Marsayangdi Khola (river) on primitive trails through small farming settlements and alpine forests of fir and pine to the arctic tundra of the yak pastures surrounding the medieval village of Manang nestled beneath the huge ice-fall tumbling from the giant, 7,000 metre Gangapurna.

Beyond Manang, the crux of the trek is the high-level crossing of the snow-covered Tharong La to reach an arid, wind-swept, mountain-desert region in the upper valley of the Kali Gandaki.

From the sacred temple at Muktinath, the return leg heads down-river on the trade route from Tibet via the caravanserai of Jomson and Tukuche through the deepest gorge in the world between the two 8,000 metre peaks of Annapurna (the world's 10th highest mountain) and Dhaulagiri (the world's 7th highest mountain) to finish at Phewa Tal (lake) on the outskirts of Pokhara - the second city of Nepal.

It was my first visit to Nepal and on our trek starting point at the ancient royal city of Gorkha (origin of the illustrious Gurkas), I suffered from both anticipation and apprehension of what was to follow. The thought of being up to 10 days away from the nearest roadhead was daunting - in Scotland and the Alps, the most had been only a couple of days. Another member of our group, Judith, a doctor from the USA, was also concerned and her backpack was extra heavy with medicines for all eventualities.

As we headed up the scenic valley on narrow trails beneath high rock walls and lofty snow peaks, criss-crossing from bank to bank on long, swaying, suspension bridges, the tension in our party increased as we progressed towards the huddle of flat-roofed houses of Manang. Rumours circulated of an early snowfall blocking the pass, disconsolate trekkers were met returning having been defeated by altitude sickness.

Our group leader, Phil did not help morale; "If you don't make it over the pass you won't see your kitbags (carried by our porters) again until Kathmandu!".

My daysac was therefore at its heaviest for the 1,000metre climb over steep scree and snow slopes to the col at 5,500 metres - some 2,000 feet higher than my previous best on 4,800 metre Mont Blanc.

However, by late evening, everyone, including Jack, a 60-year-old Irishman, had successfully struggled into the walled, fortress-like camping ground at Muktinath. We had enjoyed perfect conditions but others have not been so fortunate. On a previous occasion a party of four Sherpas had died in a vain attempt to secure help for their group snowbound on their attempt at crossing the pass. Poorly clad porters have also succumbed to exposure and hypothermia.

From the pagoda-style temple with its sacred water spouts and natural gas flame a dramatic view unfolds of the barren moonscape of the upper Kali Gandaki valley and the huge, white dome of Dhaulagiri looming far to the south.

The numerous small, simple lodges in the Kali Gandaki valley originally served as overnight staging posts for porters and pony caravans carrying goods on the trade route to and from Tibet but are now the haven of 'tea-shop' trekkers and the route between Pokhara and Jomson, the most popular in Nepal, is now known as the 'Coca-Cola Trail'.

A long uphill slog from the riverside at Tatopani to the col at Gorapani is alleviated by superb views of Dhaulagiri and its neighbouring Tukuche Peak rising sheer above the valley floor. Poon Hill, a short climb above Gorapani, provides an even better vantage point to witness the great peaks flame red in the rays of the rising or setting sun.

However the finest panorama is saved for the end of the trek in Pokhara. On a clear day, from the dam on Phewa Tal, the entire northern horizon is lined with mighty peaks ranging from Dhaulagiri in the west through Annapurna South Peak, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I, Macchapuchre (the 'fish-tail' mountain), Annapurna III, Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal terminating with Manaslu Himal in the east.

As is customary, our trekking crew and porters were well rewarded with generous backsheesh (money presents) for their stalwart efforts in ensuring the success of our trek while our sirdar Ang Jangbu drew lots to allocate the donations we also made of clothing and trekking gear. Most, but not all, of Judith's medicines were used to treat local villagers in evening surgeries at our camping places.

Reference: "High Adventure around the World"

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Annapurna - " Goddess Mother of the Harvests " - is, like Everest, a secluded peak. Although its 8000 metre summit may be glimpsed from Phewa Lake in Pokhara, protruding on the far horizon between the protecting bastions of Hiunchuli and Macchapuchre, a six-day trek…Read More

Annapurna - " Goddess Mother of the Harvests " - is, like Everest, a secluded peak. Although its 8000 metre summit may be glimpsed from Phewa Lake in Pokhara, protruding on the far horizon between the protecting bastions of Hiunchuli and Macchapuchre, a six-day trek over terraced hillsides strewn with picturesque villages and through the deep, dark gorge of the Modi Khola is required to reach the yak pastures and vast, glacier-filled amphitheatre ensconced at the foot of the world's tenth highest mountain.

Named "the Sanctuary " by Colonel Jimmy Roberts, the pioneer and founder of organised trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, this was the site of the base camp of ( Sir ) Chris Bonington on his successful assault on Annapurna's massive South Face.

The lodges along this popular route had mushroomed since my first visit ten years previously but thanks to the strict controls imposed by ACAP ( Annapurna Conservation Area Project ) the standards maintained are higher than other regions of Nepal and compare favourably with those of alpine huts in Europe. Inspectors check the general cleanliness of the lodges and their surroundings and also their foodstocks to ensure all items on the extensive menus are indeed available. The use of wood fires is banned and there is a depot for hiring stoves and the purchase of kerosene.

Altitude is the only difficulty in reaching the Sanctuary although no crossing of any high pass is required. On both my visits trekkers were encountered in distressed conditions from attempting to go too high too fast - one American was sure that if he pushed on the effects would wear off. Every year, despite widespread warnings, there are fatalities in the Nepal Himalaya from AMS ( acute mountain sickness ).

The final two days above Chomrong, the highest permanent settlement in the area, are through dense, bamboo-and-rhododendron jungle lining the sheer-sided walls of the Modi Khola Gorge, with views ahead of the giant 7000 metre Gangapurna, before one emerges into the spectacular beauty of the Sanctuary.

October to December, the post-monsoon season, is the peak trekking period when the weather should be clear and dry but the walk-in on my return visit was in heavy, prolonged rainfall - it was the worst autumn weather in 25 years causing havoc with the still-to-be-harvested grain crops. The floor of the Sanctuary was covered in two feet of fresh snow while the Tharong La high pass on the Annapurna Circuit was temporarily blocked by the unseasonal snowfall forcing commercial trekking groups on fixed schedules to turn back and retrace their routes.

In the afternoons mists tend to swirl up the valley but in the evening can clear, like a curtain being drawn, to expose the nearby Macchapucchre, the "Fishtail-mountain", with its summit snowfields aflame in the sunset. An equally dramatic view can be obtained in the mornings when the great South Face of Annapurna I glows golden in the sunrise.

Many trekkers miss out on these magic moments by staying at the lower Macchapuchre Base Camp and only making day-trips to the Sanctuary. They benefit however by avoiding the bone-biting, sub-zero, arctic temperatures which prevail in the ice-bound basin under star-spangled, Himalayan night-skies.

Across the jumbled moraine of the South Annapurna Glacier a dangerous gully, bombarded by a constant fusillade of stonefall, emerges onto a level terrace and a 2000foot climb gains the domed top ( c5000 metres ) of Rakshi Peak - a snow summit not requiring a climbing permit. The ascent can usually be done in a single day from base camp but with its heavy cover of deep, soft snow I had to make a high camp and take two days ( possible thanks to my trekking crew ). The vantage point high in the centre of the Sanctuary provides a 360degree panorama of the encircling mountains and a proper perspective of their true immensity.

Starting from Hiunchuli, the western sentinel above the narrow gateway to the Sanctuary, a tremendous ridge of ice and rock sweeps round the skyline encompassing the graceful Annapurna South Peak, the jagged, black pinnacle of Fang, and culminates in the formidable ramparts of Annapurna I. Nearby towers the aptly named Tent Peak ( nepalese name Tharpu Chuli - one of the so-called "trekking" peaks requiring a $200 climbing permit ) while the sacred and unclimbed Macchapuchre presents a shapely silhouette as the eastern sentinel above the gateway.

The profound silence is violated on occasion by the reverberating roar of avalanches as huge blocks of snow and ice crash, amidst billowing clouds of spindrift, to the glacier far below.

On the return journey to Pokhara a detour can be made from Chomrong through the major Gurung village of Gandrung, with its maze of narrow, paved alleyways and stone-built, slate-roofed houses surrounded by orange marigolds and superb outlooks on Annapurna South Peak, Hiunchuli and the twin tops of Macchapuchre ( maccha - fish, puchre - tail ).

Reference: High Adventure around the World

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One morning we tried to rediscover Kathmandu Durbar square. We had the chance to see the Kumari, the goddess of Nepal. She is a young girl, who was chosen by very strict criterias. She is the reincarnation of a god. She lived as a queen…Read More

One morning we tried to rediscover Kathmandu Durbar square. We had the chance to see the Kumari, the goddess of Nepal. She is a young girl, who was chosen by very strict criterias. She is the reincarnation of a god. She lived as a queen in her palace until the end of her childhood. After that she became a girl like any other, only she was rich. It is sad because she would have a hard time trying to find a husband ( a curse will strike the man who married her). It is forbidden to take her picture. She is said to have divine skills and she always offers good advice to people. To see her you should go to Kathmandu Durbar Square in the Kumari Chwonk. She appears from time to time on the balcony. To increase your chance to spot her you should give a tip to her parents.    Close

Kathmandu is a truly wonderful city. One could call it an open air museum indeed. The Durbar Square for instance is littered with all kinds of temples which are built in their typical multi-roofed style, Which means that a temple has several roofs on top…Read More

Kathmandu is a truly wonderful city. One could call it an open air museum indeed. The Durbar Square for instance is littered with all kinds of temples which are built in their typical multi-roofed style, Which means that a temple has several roofs on top of each other.

Durbar Square also inhabits the house of Kumari the living goddess. Kumari is a little girl that's been selected from a broad choice of girls. As far as I understood it, the girl has no say in her selection, and she stays Kumari until she has her first period. From that time she's considered unclean and another Kumari has to be selected. The worst of this is that almost no man is prepared to marry a former Kumari, since legend goes that any man marrying a former Kumari will die within half a year. I don't dare to imagine the terrible fate that awaits any Kumari.

The Kathmandu valley is rather compact, and the surroundings of the city are worth a visit for their Buddhist temples like Bodnath (the largest stupa of Nepal, with a little temple next to it containing a golden Buddha), or Swayambunath (which is more beautiful, and has to be reached by climbing a long and steep stairway flanked by all kinds of colourful statues and beggars).

Other places worth visiting are Pashupathinath, the most holy Hindu city of Nepal, where one can find burning ghats, which are just as good a spot to be cremated because the river banks they take place are a tributary to the Ganges.

Or one might go to Bakhtapur, a city so beautiful that the German government has taken it as her duty to maintain and restore the city. One last thing: the rich and the jet set go to New York for shopping and get ripped off by all these over rated designers. Kathmandu is an alternative shopper's paradise, but the main difference is that the goods that can be purchased are cheap beyond imagination. Another last thing: it should never be the main reason to go to this magnificent and beautiful city.

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