This was my third trip to the Iolani Palace. Same old, same old? No! Each visit I have found that the preservationists have found more objects, restored more places and things to look like the era the Hawaiian Royalty lived here. King David Kalakaua built…Read More

This was my third trip to the Iolani Palace. Same old, same old? No! Each visit I have found that the preservationists have found more objects, restored more places and things to look like the era the Hawaiian Royalty lived here. King David Kalakaua built this version of the Iolani Palace after a smaller version started to crumble from decay. King David aka the "Merry Monarch" and his wife Queen Kapiolani lived here until his death. His sister Queen Lili’uokalani succeeded him. During her reign the monarchy was overthrown. She was forced to abdicate. The papers were signed in the Blue Room. After an uprising to restore her to the throne failed, Lili’uokalani was held prisoner in one of the upstairs bedrooms. On our tour we saw a quilt that she worked on while imprisoned. With the royalty gone, the building became an office building for the new government. The palatial size rooms where chopped up into a rabbit warren of small offices. Architectural details were removed or covered over. Furniture and carpeting were sold off, stolen, or destroyed.

After a few years of construction the King took residency in 1882. You can see why it took so long to build. There is a magnificent koa wood stairway that is a woodworkers dream. Unfortunately (my opinion) they have now covered it with ugly blue carpeting. The carpet is a replica based on photos. Other carpets throughout the building are also replicas or in some cases reconstructions. The throne room carpet was so huge it was sold off in sections. Many of those pieces have been rewoven together along with new pieces to fill in. The preservationists have done a marvelous job. Our docent spoke to us on the front lanai while we put on little blue booties. Even these have been improved since my last visit. They now are adjustable and a whole lot safer to wear. Inside our tour started with the Blue Room a parlor, continued on to the formal dining room. I noticed a lot of details that reoccur throughout the palace. One is Kalakaua’s favorite symbol of a quatrefoil. We no longer can walk up the central staircase, as engineers are concerned about the damage thundering herds of tourist might cause. Personally, I figure if it survived years, as a government building a few tourists shouldn’t be a problem. But then I am not in charge. We all rode a small elevator, a few people at a time to the second floor. On this level we saw changes in the Kings and Queens bedrooms. Both had new reproductions of curtains and bed linens. In the Kings Office we now are allowed to peek into his private bathroom and see the "royal throne". The yellow room was used for the enjoyment of music. The wide central hallway was where the royal family had most of their meals and it also served at a lounge, reception area. The corner bedroom was Liliokalani’s prison cell. Back on the main level we entered the Throne Room. The last time we were here the kahilis had been removed to an exhibit at the Bishop Museum. I noticed they are back in place beside the thrones, or reproductions have been made. The King and Queens crowns are on display in cases, I don’t remember that from previous visits. One thing they are quite proud of about Iolani, it had electric light fixtures before the White House did.

Our docent led us back to the lanai where they collected our booties. After that we were invited to visit the Basement Gallery Exhibits. Bill bought just a ticket for the Basement Exhibit only. Here we saw many of the crown jewels, historic photos, cases of koa wood special presentation pieces, the palace kitchen and the office of the Chamberlain’s Office. We have visited Iolani on three other trips. One time they were closed so we just walked the grounds and found the uniquely shaped Hawaii State Capitol. Not until this visit did we notice that the Palace has what appears to be a moat. Our docent explained it wasn’t a moat, it never held water. It was a light tunnel that allowed those areas the servants worked in to be filled with natural light. How clever!

Iolani is open Monday-Saturday 9:00 am –4:00 pm. It is closed on nine holidays. It is a good idea to reserve a tour time by calling ahead (808-522-0832) or request via e-mailing palacetickets@iolanipalace.org. Arrive early and check in at the Iolani Barracks gift shop. There are a couple of ways to tour. Docent guided tours ($21.75) and Self Led – audio tours ($14.75). The audio tours are available in several languages. Admission for children is only $6.00. Basement Gallery tour is only $7.00.

When you are done with the tour, take time to look around the neighborhood. In every direction you will find a jewel be it a statue, a church, a gallery museum, mission house or a historic site.
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The Honolulu Museum of Art, formerly the Honolulu Academy of Art, is a wonderful art gallery is located at 900 S, Beretania Street. Parking can sometimes be found on the streets surrounding and in a small parking lot. We got lucky and found a metered…Read More

The Honolulu Museum of Art, formerly the Honolulu Academy of Art, is a wonderful art gallery is located at 900 S, Beretania Street. Parking can sometimes be found on the streets surrounding and in a small parking lot. We got lucky and found a metered spot first in line on the side street. However, that meant Bill’s job became meter monitor while Marilyn and I went on a tour. He ran out of coins before we returned and barely let us get in the car before he was moving out into traffic. Consider parking a few blocks away at the Blaisdale Center, using the Bus system or hiring a cab. The Museum is open Tuesday through Saturday 10 to 4:30. On Sunday it is open 1 to 5. Admission is $10 for adults and free for those under 17. Good place for a family outing. The entry fee also covers the Honolulu Museum of Art Spalding House at a different location.

We arrived as the gates opened but stopped outside to appreciate the beauty of the building. Inside we wandered from gallery to gallery and stopped to enjoy the beauty of the six courtyards scattered throughout the building. You can proceed in any direction you want, but I like to go chronologically with the Western Civilization from Ancients to Middle Ages, to Renaissance, to Impressionist and Modernism. Upper level gallery highlights the Arts of Hawai’i. In the west wing we looked at the Indonesian, Southeast Asian and Indian Art. We paid special attention to the Arts of the Islamic World (more on that later). There is a huge wing we didn’t have time for on this trip. It contains the art of Japan, China, Korea, and Pan Asian Buddhism. Had to hurry because we had a lunch date and a tour.

We had reservations at the Honolulu Museum of Art Café. They have a good menu with lots of fresh island ingredients at a shaded section of a large courtyard. We asked for a table where we could watch the fountain. The water trickles down a wall below four gigantic man-made and decorated boulders, the artwork of Jun Kaneko. Reservations are recommended, call 808-532-8734.First seating is at 11:30 am and the last at 1:30 pm. Marilyn and I had pork with pineapple salsa. Bill had a chicken pasta dish. I was thrilled to get a tall icy glass of POG. (Passion Fruit-Orange-Guava). It was such a pleasant experience. After lunch we shopped the museum shop where we always find a unique treasure.

Bill settled himself on a bench in a shaded walkway with a view of a pretty courtyard. Marilyn and I joined a tour group at the Ward Street Entrance.

Shangri La is the estate of Doris Duke. The art museum runs tours out to the estate that is operated by the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art. Reservations are required, this tour costs $25, and you also have to pay admission to the Honolulu Museum of Art. Our docent checked us off her list and sent us into the Islamic Art Gallery where we watched a video about Doris Duke and how she became a collector Islamic Art. Here is a synopsis: 12 year old inherits massive fortune from tobacco and utility czar; marries at 23 and tours the world on honeymoon; starts shopping for Islamic art to be sent home (whole rooms); stops in Oahu on way home falls in love with the island and buys land; builds Shangri La; shops some more; ditches husband; shops; marries playboy, ditches playboy; continues shopping for Islamic Art. In the video-viewing gallery are also some wonderful pieces of Islamic art from her collection. We regrouped in the courtyard and then boarded the small shuttle bus. Marilyn was surprised we were not on a large touring bus like a Greyhound. I laughed and told her she would find out why, soon. It is a fun ride from the museum to the estate. We drove though beautiful neighborhoods. Our shuttle pulled up to a gated drive where the driver remote controlled its opening. Once it was open we began a slow descent on a narrow, vegetation-choked drive that ended at a tight turn-around with a banyan tree in the center. There would have been a disaster if we had met another vehicle, in route. Marilyn now understands why we weren’t on a big bus.
Two docents met us on board the shuttle and divided us into two groups. Our group started with the house and the other group started with the gardens.

From the exterior the house looks very plain. The only thing that saves it from looking like a warehouse is the pair of silly smiling camels on each side of the entryway. Then we stepped inside. Oh, wow! We all reached for our cameras…. just as the docent told us no pictures inside, but we can take all the outdoor pictures we want. But….!!!! We toured seven or eight rooms, most of which were harvested from one particular Islamic country. The living room was more a blend and also the most livable room. Doris was a very tall woman and the furniture was built for her. We were allowed to sit down in two different rooms while the docent went into great detail. I am only 5’ tall and found nowhere to sit that was comfortable. I have toured lots of houses in my travels and this one is like no other. Lots of mosaics, tiled floors, intricately carved doors and windows. I would not choose to live here, but I appreciate the architecture and artwork. Besides the Islamic art making this house unique, there is a very interesting window wall in the living room. Instead of sliding on tracks to open the huge glass panels, the panels descend into the floor on their very own Otis elevator. Carved screens can be pulled on the tracts for sunshine control. Since my last trip here, the Damascus room has been opened to the public. Doris built it as a guestroom but later decided she would rather have some distance from her guests. Then she built a guesthouse at the far end of the swimming pool/fountain.

We were given a water break on the outside veranda. From here we could see the guesthouse, the salt-water pool, the fountain and down at sea level the safe harbor built for her boat. Now this area has become a favorite place for neighbors to swim. In the distance is the backside of Diamondhead. What a lovely view! And there are flowering shrubs and trees bordering the large lawn where Doris’ dogs romped. At the end of our tour we were taken to the formal Mughal garden. Pretty, but oppressively hot, I can’t imagine lingering in this garden.   Close

There are five places we visited that were all new to Marilyn but repeat visits for Bill and MS. They are not on the usual list of tourist spots. I found them by reading magazines and searching the web. I hope this tip will help…Read More

There are five places we visited that were all new to Marilyn but repeat visits for Bill and MS. They are not on the usual list of tourist spots. I found them by reading magazines and searching the web. I hope this tip will help you find a new treasure on Oahu. They are worthy repeats for us. I will divide this unto three parts.

Hawaiian Plantation Village is off the beaten path. At 94-695 Waipahu Street in the town of Waipahu. It helps to have a GPS system to find it, however they do have good signage once you get off the main highway. This town is on the west side of Pearl Harbor. We drove through industrial areas and some residential areas to get here. You aren’t in Waikiki anymore, that’s for sure! To quote from their mission statement: "its purpose is ensuring that the experiences, lifestyles, struggles, sacrifices, innovations and contributions of our plantation forbearers are known…as the cornerstones of Hawaii’s successful multicultural society". This is a true cultural experience and for a modest $13 admission ($10 for seniors and even lower prices for Military, Kama’aina (HI resident) and children). The village is open Mon-Sat with tours at 10:00, 11:00, 12,:00, 1:00 and 2:00. The tour generally lasts 1.5 hours unless you get lucky and have a lot of good questions asked by your fellow tourists. One time we toured with two school teachers who grew up in plantation towns. That was a choice experience. Our docent on this tour told us he knew we had high IQs because we were there instead of that Plantation place up in the middle of the island. We felt a little smug, because that is the way we feel too.

There were eight major groups of people that were hired to work the sugar plantations. It was hard work and people wore out. As one immigrant group would leave to start their own businesses or work in other areas, the plantation found workers from other countries.

The native Hawaiians were the first ones recruited. The other seven groups came from China, Japan, Okinawa, Portugal, Korea, Puerto Rico and Philippines. Our docent enthusiastically explained the contributions each of these groups brought to the islands. Each group is represented by one or more buildings including homes, cookhouse, communal bath, Forno oven, barbershop, society building and shrine. One building, the Saimin stand highlights how these different cultures blended into a modern Hawaii. Saimin is a rich savory noodle soup with flavors from many of the immigrant cultures…a true melting pot. There are buildings that are representative of the plantation management, too: The Camp Office, the Plantation Store, the Infirmary and the Social/Union Hall. The Plantation owners tried to keep the different cultures from mixing in hopes of discouraging unionization. Different camps were set up for different groups of immigrants. The Hawaiian school system undermined this by insisting that all children attend school and learn English. Just imagine, a little interpreter in almost every house. That soon broke down the power of the plantation owners.

In addition to the buildings we were treated to the trees, bushes and flowering plants throughout the village. Some where imported with the various cultures; some are native to Hawaii and some were brought in from other tropical areas as a potential food source. At the Union Hall our docent turned us over to a hostess who provided us with six samples of foods found in plantation towns. Of course one of them was sugar cane. They had a range of texture and sweet/sour/bland taste. We were told one fruit tastes like mango to one culture, like apricots to another, and another flavor I can’t remember to a third culture. To me it tasted like apricots with a mango texture. That means by their survey that I am probably Japanese. Ok, so this test is not 100% accurate, it was fun to do. The whole tour has a wealth of information and explains a lot about how Hawaii developed to its present state.



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For years I have been advising friends headed to Oahu to by pass the Ala Moana Shopping Center in favor of the Aloha Tower Marketplace. My theory was based in part because the Marketplace has a terrific view of the harbor and for a…Read More

For years I have been advising friends headed to Oahu to by pass the Ala Moana Shopping Center in favor of the Aloha Tower Marketplace. My theory was based in part because the Marketplace has a terrific view of the harbor and for a free thrill you can take the elevator up the Aloha Tower for a panoramic view of Honolulu. Well those parts are still there, but many of the shops and restaurants we have patronized over the years are closed. The only good restaurant still in operation is Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant. The shops that remain open are sad looking, and there aren’t many shoppers. We did pick up a real bargain on a koa wood and parchment lamp with honu design at 50% off. Perhaps you should go there to look for other bargains. Another reason we favored this mall was the parking lot. We would park there, walk uptown to visit historic sites and return for lunch at the Marketplace where our parking was validated. Now it is hard to find someone to validate.

On the other hand, I have discouraged people from going to the Ala Moana Shopping Center because it is huge. Many of the stores are high end. ‘Tourist on a budget’ stores are few and far between. However, on this trip we were in search of a bookstore and they had one. They had lots of stores and a confusing layout. We did accidentally find a Martin and Macarthur store where Marilyn and I each bought koa wood Christmas ornaments. I stopped people twice to ask for directions. One lady apologized because she lives there and still can’t find the stores she wants! When I finally found the bookstore on a lower level opening into the parking ramp, the clerk found exactly what I wanted. I walked out with two DVDs and a CD. I’m sure you could spend a whole day here.

So which mall would I recommend now?….Victoria Ward Centers, love that place even if it doesn’t have a good view of the ocean.
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On one day we did a combination of old and new experiences. (They were all new to Marilyn.) To start we arrived at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum just as they were opening, at 9:00 am. There is a lot to offer here and I…Read More

On one day we did a combination of old and new experiences. (They were all new to Marilyn.) To start we arrived at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum just as they were opening, at 9:00 am. There is a lot to offer here and I do believe we could have stayed till closing at 5:00 pm. Admission was $20 for Adults, $17 for seniors and $15 for children 4-12. The building is at 1525 Bernice Street and was a little tricky for us to find even though we had been here before. I suspect our rented Garmin took us on an indirect root. Bernice Pauahi was the last remaining heir to the Kamehameha the Great. Besides an impressive portfolio of real estate holdings, she also inherited precious Ali’i possessions such as feathered capes and helmets, koa woodcarvings and calabashes, kahili and canoes. With the help of her astute haole husband Charles Reed Bishop, her estate founded The Kamehameha Schools as well as the Bishop Museum. Our favorite part of the museum is the Hawaiian Hall. This dark and imposing building is arranged with a two-story atrium. Besides the fabulous collection of Polynesian and Hawaiian artifacts in glass cases lining the walls, the center atrium is an exhibit, too. On the lower level are a grass shack and several Ki’i statues. Suspended above and viewable at eye-level from the second floor is a whale skeleton, and a dugout outrigger canoe. My favorite exhibit is the poi pounders. Bill’s favorites are the weapons rigged with sharp teeth. If you have the chance to eavesdrop on a docent-conducted tour for school children, you will learn a lot. We visited two rooms we had not seen before. The Kahili Room displays many of these tall, feather ornamented wood poles. Odd looking until you realize their use. When Ali’i moved about servants carried these poles on either side of the royalty. Crowds could see them in the distance and take appropriate action. In ancient times if a commoner committed a kapu by stepping on an Ali’i shadow, they could be punished with death. A little severe, so you can see the value of the Kahili warning system. After the kapu system was eliminated the Kahilis remained as a sign that royalty was present, often found flanking the throne or the coffin. The other room we visited is on the mezzanine and is a gallery. Portraits, landscapes, sculpture and carvings are displayed here. We paid our respects to Bernice. There are other parts to the museum that we didn’t cover such as a Science Hall and a Planetarium. We had lunch at Café Pulama. They do not serve the frou-frou food often associated with museums. I had kalua pork; Bill and Marilyn had sun dried tomato wraps. Lunch for two with one drink and no tip was $22.25. The café was not well organized and service was not at it’s best that day. If you are leaving for the day, find another place. We browsed the gift shop. So tempting to buy those gorgeous coffee table books, but books weigh a lot. I bought tea towels instead.

Now for a change of pace: attention quilters and seamstresses….next stop was at The Fabric Mart. This was an easy find located on 1631 Kalakaua Ave (the same street our hotel is on but not on Waikiki). They have a large parking lot adjacent to the building so we didn’t have to search for a spot along the curb on that major artery. Bill is a good shopper but not in fabric stores. He found a ledge to perch on near the window where he could watch the traffic. (It’s a guy thing.) Marilyn followed me around and became my bolt carrier. The price per yard here is much lower than at my home stores. And the variety…oh, wow! I found three fabrics to take home. They have since been made into two blouses and a jumper. I have also shopped at their store in Kaneohe on the Windward side of Oahu.

We had been out from home for a week, so it was time to do laundry. Our hotel had a laundry service where you pay per item, but no guest laundry. I located a place Waikiki Laundromat on Kuhio Ave. Marilyn and I packed up our duds into our rolling suitcases and walked the five or six blocks. Love that spinner suitcase. This place is coin operated so plan on bringing lots of coins or small currency for the change machine. It was clean and the machines in good repair. What it doesn’t have is air conditioning and rest rooms. The heat was oppressive. I think if I do this again, I will sneak into the garage level laundry at the Queen Kapiolani Hotel, even if I’m not staying there. It is closer and cooler.

Bill and I went for a walk in search of supper. As we were walking down Kalakaua a sidewalk barker talked us into checking out the menu for Eggs ‘n Things. Usually we ignore these guys but eggs sounded pretty good. Located at 2464 Kalakaua Ave this place is open 6:00 am to 2:00pm and 4:00pm to 10:00 pm. Standing on the street you look over the menu and place your order before going up the stairs. At the top of the stairs we paid the cashier and were assigned a table. Take out is available also. The menu is very breakfasty oriented, but there were some meat and potatoes offerings. I know I had Spam and something. Bill had coconut syrup and something. We ate in, enjoyed the view of Waikiki Beach and also enjoyed the tasty meal. Our meal for two with beverages and tip was $20.84. We would return here despite the annoying barker out front.
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One of the joys of staying at Diamondhead side of Waikiki is Kapiolani Park. We planned a day of appreciation of what it offered there. We started out with a walk on the sea-walk along Queens Beach. It was a little early for sunbathers,…Read More

One of the joys of staying at Diamondhead side of Waikiki is Kapiolani Park. We planned a day of appreciation of what it offered there. We started out with a walk on the sea-walk along Queens Beach. It was a little early for sunbathers, but there were some folks practicing yoga, others securing picnic tables for family gatherings. We love to watch the ocean, and being from Iowa we don’t get many chances to do that. So we walked and chatted, watched the ocean and enjoyed the inland view of the banyan trees and other trees in the park. My friend had not heard of the Waikiki Natatorium War Memorial. We stopped to check out this building on the National Register of Historic Places. It has fallen into disrepair and has been graffiti. Built as an ocean water swimming pool and dedicated to those who served during WW I. Local Olympic Gold swimmer Duke Kahanamoko was the first to swim here.

Back to the seaside we continued on to the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel where we stopped for Sunday Brunch at the Hau Tree Lanai Restaurant. We like this restaurant for the menu, the location on the beach, the Hau tree shaded lanai and for the large dollop of history it has. This was once a private home, turned into a resort. Among the famous people who stayed here was Robert Louis Stevenson. And guess who joined him here for an occasional meal?….King David Kalakaua! Hau Tree Lanai has won prizes for being the best outdoor dining in Honolulu. Often overlooked by tourists, it is a favorite of locals. We didn’t have reservations but were given a good table on the upper level. Service and food were excellent. That day it was raining off and on so the unprotected tables near the historic lanai wall were empty. Our generous brunch servings of crab-cake Benedict and club sandwich with beverage and tip came to $56.50. It is one of the best meals of the whole trip.

Walking in the misty rain to our next stop, we enjoyed looking at the unusual trees along Kalakaua Ave. The best way to describe them is gnarly. Often in Hawaii rains are so light, almost a fine mist that you see open umbrellas and closed umbrellas in the same cluster of people. No one is quite sure what to do. Soon we arrived at the Waikiki Aquarium at 2777 Kalakaua Ave on the ocean side of the street. This is the third oldest aquarium in the US. It is relatively small but well stocked with fish, coral, jellies, crustaceans, and at least one monk seal. We have visited three times and have favorite tanks to visit. One fish that looks like seaweed, the cute sea horses and the jellyfish fascinates us. The size of some of the fish in the big tank convinces me to stay in shallow water. Outdoor tanks show various stages of growth in schools of krill from practically invisible to full size at 2". Admission is $9 for adults and $6 for kids and seniors, what a bargain! They open at 9:00 am daily and close at 4:30pm. There is a small gift shop geared at purchases children can make.

Next stop Cold Stone Creamery at the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel. They offer a nice selection of flavors and doodads to fancy them up. I stuck with a scoop of mango ice cream and was very happy.

At this point Bill retired to the hotel room. Marilyn and I flipped a coin…. zoo or shop. We may have fudged the coin toss because we both wanted to go shopping. Waikiki does offer many opportunities for that and we went our separate ways with our shopping lists. Some of my favorite Waikiki Shops are Crazy Fish, Crazy Shirt, and the old reliable ABC Store. Don’t be shy about wandering into hotel lobbies, some of the most interesting shops can be found there. I always visit the Hawaiian Quilt Collection and products of Hawaii Too in the Hyatt Regency.

To finish off our day Bill and I enjoyed a gourmet Hawaiian pizza at Wolfgang Puck Express on the ground floor of the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel. We liked that $12.51 meal so much we did it again later in the week. It had been a fun day full of variety and almost constant beautiful views of the ocean. We did it all on foot, no valet, no taxi and no trolleys. Gotta love Waikiki.
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The drive is worth the time even if you don’t stop anywhere. Oahu’s scenery changes along the route from lush suburban neighborhoods to the stark barren slopes of Koko Head; from the cactus growing roadsides to mist shrouded Pali; from beautifully calm Kaneohe Bay to…Read More

The drive is worth the time even if you don’t stop anywhere. Oahu’s scenery changes along the route from lush suburban neighborhoods to the stark barren slopes of Koko Head; from the cactus growing roadsides to mist shrouded Pali; from beautifully calm Kaneohe Bay to the high surf of Haniela; and from the huge pineapple fields flanked by two mountain chains to the congestion of the city.

We always stop along the way. This trip we decided to pull off at an overlook East of Hawaii Kai. Kai is Hawaiian for sea. This bedroom community for Honolulu does embrace a long stretch of seashore and crawls up the palis. From the overlook we could also see the backside of Koko Head. This is the last active cinder cone volcano on Oahu. The next overlook we stopped at is the Blowhole. It was not performing today as the seas were relatively calm no dramatic sprays of water. We did notice that since our last visit someone had built several rock stacks near the hole. Cute, but it is a very dangerous activity. More that one person has been sucked into that hole to pop up later far away.
Our third scenic stop was at Makahu Beach Park. From here we could see the lighthouse, Rabbit Island (Moturoa) and the vast Pacific Ocean. This is a favorite beach for wind surfing, surfing, snorkeling and swimming. Popular with locals but tourists often zip on by the turn-off not knowing there is a hidden treasure nearby.

Another hidden treasure is the Byodo-In Temple located at 47-200 Kahekili Highway in Kaneohe’s Valley of the Temples Memorial Park. Yup, it is a cemetery. Don’t I take you to interesting places? As you drive through the Memorial Park you see different styles of headstones. The cemetery is for all residents be they Buddhist, Shinto, Protestant and Catholic. At the far end of the park snugged up to the Ko’olau Mountains is the Byodo-In Temple. Admission is $4, which is paid at a small shed near the trail to the bridge. Get your camera ready. Almost everyone stops on the bridge or right before it to take a picture. This is our third trip here and we are not numb to the beauty. Breathtaking. Once you cross the bridge turn to the left and walk to the Bell House. Here you can swing a padded log to strike the 3-ton bell as a sign of respect and to invoke an atmosphere of tranquility. Mellow. Uphill on the grounds is a small pagoda pavilion. Besides being a serene spot for meditation it gives you a new perspective on the temple. The temple dating from June 1968 commemorates the first Japanese immigrants to Hawaii. It is a scale replica of a temple in Japan that is over 900 years old. If you have watched any TV shows based in Hawaii, somehow this temple shows up often miscast as another culture, but then it is so photogenic! That point aside, it is a functioning Buddhist Temple and all measure of respect is due. No shoes in the temple is one. No rowdiness is another. The Buddha is the largest figure carved since ancient times, it is covered with gold lacquer with gold leaf on top of that. Each time we come here we notice something we missed before. This time it was the immaculate raked gravel garden between the temple and the pond. At the gift shop Bill bought fish food and headed out to do his favorite thing. He loves to feed the Koi and birds. This is his Oahu highlight.

The circle drive continued following the shore around Kaneohe Bay, passing locations used in movies such as "Jurassic Park" and "50 First Dates". We stopped for lunch at The Crouching Lion Inn. Bill and I have eaten here on several trips, enjoying good food and a view of the ocean. Things have changed. While the menu looks the same, the new owners/managers haven’t retained the outstanding flavors. I would recommend packing a picnic lunch and stopping at Kahana Bay Beach Park. This is a very serene small beach located at the end of a long narrow bay. Gentle waters good for wading, swimming and we are told fishing. There are hiking trails as the park continues across the highway.

Continuing the drive we by-pass the Polynesian Cultural Center. But I would stop at Laie Point to see the sea arch. About this time you will start to see shrimp lunch wagons and other roadside stands. We have now reached what I consider the North Shore. Cars with surfboards abound. Glimpses of the deep blue ocean tease us. We enter Waimea and see the beautiful Waimea Bay and lots of people in the water, on the beach and walking along the side of the road. Drive carefully, as the road is narrow and the walkers often have to side step the abundant vegetation. We have now reached our next stop, Waimea Valley located at 59-864 Kamehameha Highway. We really like this park because the emphasis is on the natural offerings of the valley and how humans came to build a civilization here. As far as world history is concerned this is where Captain Cooks crew regrouped and restocked after Cook was killed on the Big Island. This was the first contact these islanders had with the outside world. The entrance fees range from $15 for adults to $7.50 for children and seniors. However, there is an additional $5 fee to ride the golf cart jitney to the furthest point, Waimea Falls. Marilyn and I rode up and walked down. Bill enjoyed the ride both ways. He also enjoyed the coffee shop while we walked. There are several trails to follow returning from the Falls. We walked along the Ginger and Heliconia trail, stopped at the Agricultural Terraces and the Ancient Hawaiian Living Site. It was lovely. Every twist and turn in the road brought us a new treat for the eyes. We were warned not to sample any of the fruits, nuts or seeds, as they could be hazardous. There is a lifeguard on duty at the pool below the Falls where swimming is allowed. It is no longer permitted to jump into the pool from the cliff or falls. This park is a great opportunity for family fun. The three of us visited the gift shop, where we found the items are locally made.

From this point to Hale’iwa we kept an eye out for parking spots along the highway. When we found one we could scurry over to the ocean side and check out the surf action. In Hale’iwa we stopped to shop for T-shirts. In all our trips here this seems to be our treat stop either fudge or shave ice or something to drink. Word to the wise, if you are diabetic shave ice is a killer and azuki beans are an acquired taste, especially when added to a shave ice cone.

As we headed south on our circle island tour, a rainstorm arrived in full force. We were able to see the vast fields of pineapples between the Ko’olau range and the Wai’anae Mountains. It was too wet outside to consider a stop at the Dole Plantation. It never ranks high on our list of must-dos, as it seems to be just a glorified rest stop with free pineapple juice and junk souvenirs for sale.

When we reached Honolulu, we stopped at the Ward Centers shopping complex on Ala Moana Blvd. We valet parked at the cinema parking garage, but only because I messed up on directions. We could have free parked (read that no tip) at the Ward Warehouse section of the complex. That was where we were headed. My favorite store there is called Native Books; my friend shopped at Island Slipper; we all liked the Nohea Gallery, and I have a ridiculous fondness for the Executive Chef. It was also time for supper and The Ward Centers offers a variety of food offerings. This concluded our circle tour. A long day, but one I will repeat every time we are on Oahu.
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If you have never been to Oahu, that first day is almost overwhelming. I advise that you don’t pre-book any tours or entertainments for that day. Usually we arrive by air to Honolulu in time for lunch. After picking up our rental car we opted…Read More

If you have never been to Oahu, that first day is almost overwhelming. I advise that you don’t pre-book any tours or entertainments for that day. Usually we arrive by air to Honolulu in time for lunch. After picking up our rental car we opted for a fast food McDonalds’ stop on the way to Waikiki. I recommend you get a meal out of the way because the excitement of checking into the hotel and settling in can disrupt your blood sugar levels enormously. Don’t make yourself sick on your first day. If you jet lag going west it is important to immediately get on Hawaii time. Force yourself to stay up till your normal bedtime. Otherwise at 2:00 am….BINGO…your eyes snap open and that’s it for the night.

When selecting your hotel there are lots of choices on Oahu. Go by the real estate agent’s adage…location, location, location! Think about what you like to do and judge by the ease of doing it from there. We like to walk along the beach, shop, eat out, spend time in the park and have easy access to major thoroughfares. Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel (2570 Kalakaua Ave) meets all those criteria. It is directly across the street from Kuhio Beach, a wonderful family beach. It is half block from Kapiolani Park where there are band concerts, aquarium, zoo, and art shows. It is on Kalahaua Ave a shopper’s paradise from T-shirt shops to high-end shops. Also close to lots of restaurants and snack shops. We like the Aston because we can zip up Kapahulu to catch the Highway 1 or find other major arteries. The hotel itself has charm. It has eateries in the building: Tiki’s Bar and Grill, Wolfgang Puck Express, Subway and Cold Stone Creamery. But what brings us back is the Breakfast on the Beach. Each guest is given a thermal lunch bag and by presenting their room key and telling their room number that person can enter the poolside breakfast buffet. Instead of one long table, several small umbrella carts offer breakfast items. I can remember these offerings: cold cereal; tropical flavored yogurts (my favorite was Guava with Passion-Orange a close second); huge tubs of fresh fruit; muffins, bagels, doughnuts; there was one station that served Asian breakfast food such as soup, fish and veggies. Drinks included milk, fruit juice, 3 kinds of coffee and tea. There was also an omelets, waffle and French toast stand that could be charged to your room. After grazing, take a bagful and go to the beach, return to your room or sit around the pool listening to and watching a singer and a hula dancer. The rooms are decorated in pure Hawaiiana with bright red and white hibiscus print bed linens, fish trap lamps and a view. On one side of the building the rooms give you a very narrow stand-up lanai and a view of Queen’s Beach and Diamondhead. The other side gives you a half moon lanai with chairs and a view of the pool area and the length of Waikiki Beach. Since we would be here a week we chose the Aloha Suite which gave us a couch and coffee table, desk a kit more floor space and an extra lanai. Our suite mini fridge was stocked with a gift of items as a welcome. We found in there all Hawaiian made treats, flavored waters and pop. These were not charge to your account, I checked. I’m not sure about how it is decided who gets this gift as our friend in a deluxe ocean view room didn’t get them. What we don’t like about the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel is the excessively high parking rate. We paid $27/day for parking….plus we tipped the valet to bring it to us and take it away. Sharing the car expense with our friend helped soften the blow, but I still think it is excessive. The valets did an excellent job for us. I do believe taxis would have been cheaper if we had confined our sightseeing to Honolulu.

When we had settled into the hotel, mastered the complicated elevator system and stocked the mini-fridge with extra stuff from the pantry shop, we were ready for supper. I had wanted to take our friend to Duke’s Canoe Club, a favorite lunch spot for us on many other trips. When we arrived it was full house with long wait list. How frustrating! Word to the wise: go to Dukes for lunch. Standing on the sidewalk we looked across the street and there was The International Market Place. Food Court! Winding through all the little booths and banyan roots was fun. At the far left side of the complex is a small stage with a live hula show and several food court style restaurants. We ate at Tiki-Burger selecting hot dogs and fries. The two young men working were apparently very new. There was a lot of confusion and messed up orders, but surprisingly the dogs were tasty and we had the hula show as a distraction. As of this writing the merchants in the International Market Place have been given until New Years Eve 2013 to vacate. The whole area is going to be redeveloped. Bye-bye old friend!

It was dark out by the time we finished supper. This is one city street where I don’t feel nervous walking home after dark. Plenty of other tourists on the street and many stores open along our route. In fact we bought our first souvenirs and located the UPS pack and ship store we will need to visit prior to moving on to Maui. Walk slowly, listen to the music, smell the flowers and mellow out. Welcome to Hawaii, you made it through your first day.


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Moose McGillycuddy’s is at 844 Front Street in Lahaina.We wanted lunch and decided to go with a recommendation of a former co-worker. One problem. The restaurant is on the second floor and we had a steep stairway to negotiate. One good thing. Being on the…Read More

Moose McGillycuddy’s is at 844 Front Street in Lahaina.
We wanted lunch and decided to go with a recommendation of a former co-worker. One problem. The restaurant is on the second floor and we had a steep stairway to negotiate. One good thing. Being on the second floor we had a fun new perspective on Front Street Lahaina. Marilyn and I each had sliders with a side of onion rings. For sliders they were quite generous and I had left-overs for my next two suppers. Other than the view, I don’t think there was anything special about the place that you can’t get somewhere else on street level.
Blue Lagoon Tropical Bar and Grill is in the Wharf Shopping Center just opposite the Banyan Tree Park at 658 Front Street in Lahaina. What is has going for it is location. It is located on the lower level of the center but can be reached by ramps or elevator. Like many Hawiian restaurants it is indoor/outdoor depending on at what table you are seated. We asked for shade. They provided good music and good service. I had a Teriyaki chicken plate lunch and I’m sure Bill went for the Kalua pork. They aren’t memorable good or bad. Lunch for two with beverages and tip was $31. We could have saved $4 by going to Aloha Mixed Plate, but that is a long walk from here. When in Maui and you have secured a parking spot, make do with what is close by. If it is a great meal, you have found a new treasure. If it was only so-so….so what…you are on Maui look at the beauty around you.
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On one of our leisure days we took a drive from Lahaina to the paniolo (cowboy) town of Paia. This started out as an agriculture center, but now has a mix of art colony, tourist shops, and is known as the world capitol of windsurfing.…Read More

On one of our leisure days we took a drive from Lahaina to the paniolo (cowboy) town of Paia. This started out as an agriculture center, but now has a mix of art colony, tourist shops, and is known as the world capitol of windsurfing. It is also the last town before entering the long and twisting road to Hana. Parking can be a challenge but we found a lot just as you come into town. Even early in the morning the lot was pretty full. We shopped and had coffee and shopped some more before driving down to Ho’okipa to watch the windsurfers.

Both Bill and I scored treasures in the shops. I found some beautiful placemats at Maui Hands. Be bought a wood walking stick with a carved dolphin for the handle. He found that at Mandala Ethnic Arts at 29 Baldwin Ave. There was another antique store to check out. Paia Trading Company is located on 106 Hana Hwy. I had hoped to find something uniquely Hawaiian but it all looked like our grandmas’ cupboards. Over the years I have always made a point of shopping at the Maui Crafts Guild where I have found several treasures. Being a cooperative that means the artists exhibited take turns runnig the store. It is always fun to talk to them about their work. The guild is located on the ocean side of the highway as you approach from Kahului.
Our coffee stop was Anthony’s Coffee Co. also located on the Hana Hwy. We managed to get the window seats overlooking the street. We had a pleasant view of the small town with lots of surfboards and windboards being transported to the beaches. Traffic was heavy and unrelenting. Also available are breakfasts including lox and bagels, croissants, wraps, omelets and waffles. They also serve lunch and ice cream. We should have skipped breakfast at home because this menu looked pretty good.

Moving down the road we stopped at Ho’okipa Beach Park located at Mile 9. We started to pick up the twists and turns of the road to Hana. At the top of one rise we turned into the upper section of the park. Lots of parking here and even a lunch wagon and craft tables, Unfortunately due to unusual surf and wind conditions there was only one windsurfer out there for us to watch. Marilyn and I decided to go for a hike and we followed the cliff edge fence trail down to a point where we could look down on some tidepools. On the way back we stopped to admire the flowering and fruiting trees along the path. Leaving the park we drove down to the lower level where the windsurfers launch. All the picnic tables were full of family gatherings. This certainly is a popular place for local families. One good thing about Maui…if the thing you came to see isn’t there, there will be something else to look at. One day we took a whale watch. Didn’t see any whales but we saw lots of dolphins and flying fish and the beautiful coast of Maui.

On the way home we stopped at Zippy’s for a late lunch….but that is another story.
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