Is this real? Did I actually make it to Africa? I did. I went to Botswana to give a workshop and had one of the most life altering experiences of my life. A short ride from Gaborone, Botswana’s capital, took me over the border into…Read More

Is this real? Did I actually make it to Africa? I did. I went to Botswana to give a workshop and had one of the most life altering experiences of my life. A short ride from Gaborone, Botswana’s capital, took me over the border into South Africa. No shoes off, no pawing through purses just a quick look at passports and a stroll through a little building and out the other end. I was in South Africa at its northernmost border.

I stayed at TAU, a wildlife refuge. Africans figured out that more people would pay to photograph animals over and over than would pay to shoot them once. We went on "safaris" but our only weapon was the camera. The rangers, however, had powerful rifles, on the dashboards of their jeeps and land rovers.

The Tau routine was eat a quick, unremarkable breakfast at dawn and get into a vehicle. There were several jeeps and land rovers in the big reserve telling each other through handheld radios where the animals were. But really how hard could it be the find an elephant, or a giraffe? They’re huge!

It was so cold and dark. But quickly the sun rose and the dusty landscape emerged. We were a small group of 6 zipping around the wildlife reserve on bumpy dirt roads. At each herd or single animal we stopped to take a picture or just overuse the word "awesome." First up were zebras, including some young ones. The precise black and white lines on the smooth flanks were stunning. They looked rather bored, but elegant and dignified, while they munched on the sparse vegetation. They had zero interest in us.

And wildebeests. We saw so many wildebeests that they became as ordinary as herds of their distant relatives, cows. Ho hum, more wildebeests.
A family of extremely ugly and hilarious little warthogs ran by. The ranger said, "Yum barbequed pork." Not in the reserve but these little guys were plentiful in the countryside and a favorite treat of the locals. Warthogs have little tusks and they are fat and do indeed have warty little bodies.

A crackling message over the radio and we sped off to sit a few feet from a pride of lions. They were calmly basking in the sunshine with very full bellies. The biggest lion had a blood smear on his cheek. We sat spellbound for a long time. I was barely aware of the other jeeps quietly coming up to form a circle. I was not afraid but I was definitely not getting out to pet the kitty. .

Back at our little hut we moved onto the enclosed porch overlooking a water hole. At one end were several elephants playing in the water and splashing each other. Elephants are very noisy. Herds of zebras and wildebeests came to drink their fill and left. Each group drank and departed. Finally as the sun was setting and all the animals seemed finished a straggly line of baboons emerged. They went quickly to the waterhole and slurped up their fill. They looked nervously over their shoulders and hightailed it out of there fast. Poor little baboons. Nobody likes them. Neither other animals nor humans. Later in my trip a baboon looked wistfully at my banana but I was warned not to feed him. They’re viewed as pests.

The next day we were already jaded by zebras and wildebeests and then we saw giraffes. They were so tall that they had to "crouch" to reach the juicy green treetops." Awesome" again. They move along like rocking horses. Now when I visit a zoo and I see the giraffes I weep for them confined in their cages.

We spent hours tracking rare wild dogs. We learned to recognize their footprints but we never saw the elusive, extremely shy creatures. We were sated with animal sightings and on our way back to our little cabins when the range stood up on his brake we all fell forward. What could it be? He was really excited. He pointed to the road where a huge black mamba snake was stretched out trying to catch he last warmth of the day. "Well, he said, "You are so lucky. It’s very late in the season to see a black mamba." Then he casually mentioned that the venom is so powerful that it takes about 20 minutes for an average size human to die. Yikes! The snake left to go home and so did we. On the way he told us a story. The rangers also lived in little cabins. One night he came back to his cabin and noticed his soap and toothpaste were on the floor and the bathroom was a mess. And coiled up beside the sink was a black mamba. So he said, "I really like snakes but even I had to get an expert to remove that one." Didn’t sleep at all well that night.

The rides at dusk included a pause in the bush for wonderful South African wine and treats on the hood of the jeep. On our last night there was an enormous banquet in a clearing in the bush. It felt unsafe with lots of animal sounds, not a soundtrack but real bush animals just chatting away. They had rigged up a curtained area to serve as an outhouse but I think everyone managed to hold it.

For a passionate animal person Tau was perfect.


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Is this real? Did I actually make it to Africa? I did. I went to Botswana to give a workshop and had one of the most life altering experiences of my life. A short ride from Gaborone, Botswana’s capital, took me over the border into…Read More

Is this real? Did I actually make it to Africa? I did. I went to Botswana to give a workshop and had one of the most life altering experiences of my life. A short ride from Gaborone, Botswana’s capital, took me over the border into South Africa. No shoes off, no pawing through purses just a quick look at passports and a stroll through a little building and out the other end. I was in South Africa at its northernmost border.

I stayed at TAU, a wildlife refuge. Africans figured out that more people would pay to photograph animals over and over than would pay to shoot them once. We went on "safaris" but our only weapon was the camera. The rangers, however, had powerful rifles, on the dashboards of their jeeps and land rovers.

The Tau routine was eat a quick, unremarkable breakfast at dawn and get into a vehicle. There were several jeeps and land rovers in the big reserve telling each other through handheld radios where the animals were. But really how hard could it be the find an elephant, or a giraffe? They’re huge!

It was so cold and dark. But quickly the sun rose and the dusty landscape emerged. We were a small group of 6 zipping around the wildlife reserve on bumpy dirt roads. At each herd or single animal we stopped to take a picture or just overuse the word "awesome." First up were zebras, including some young ones. The precise black and white lines on the smooth flanks were stunning. They looked rather bored, but elegant and dignified, while they munched on the sparse vegetation. They had zero interest in us.

And wildebeests. We saw so many wildebeests that they became as ordinary as herds of their distant relatives, cows. Ho hum, more wildebeests.
A family of extremely ugly and hilarious little warthogs ran by. The ranger said, "Yum barbequed pork." Not in the reserve but these little guys were plentiful in the countryside and a favorite treat of the locals. Warthogs have little tusks and they are fat and do indeed have warty little bodies.

A crackling message over the radio and we sped off to sit a few feet from a pride of lions. They were calmly basking in the sunshine with very full bellies. The biggest lion had a blood smear on his cheek. We sat spellbound for a long time. I was barely aware of the other jeeps quietly coming up to form a circle. I was not afraid but I was definitely not getting out to pet the kitty. .

Back at our little hut we moved onto the enclosed porch overlooking a water hole. At one end were several elephants playing in the water and splashing each other. Elephants are very noisy. Herds of zebras and wildebeests came to drink their fill and left. Each group drank and departed. Finally as the sun was setting and all the animals seemed finished a straggly line of baboons emerged. They went quickly to the waterhole and slurped up their fill. They looked nervously over their shoulders and hightailed it out of there fast. Poor little baboons. Nobody likes them. Neither other animals nor humans. Later in my trip a baboon looked wistfully at my banana but I was warned not to feed him. They’re viewed as pests.

The next day we were already jaded by zebras and wildebeests and then we saw giraffes. They were so tall that they had to "crouch" to reach the juicy green treetops." Awesome" again. They move along like rocking horses. Now when I visit a zoo and I see the giraffes I weep for them confined in their cages.

We spent hours tracking rare wild dogs. We learned to recognize their footprints but we never saw the elusive, extremely shy creatures. We were sated with animal sightings and on our way back to our little cabins when the range stood up on his brake we all fell forward. What could it be? He was really excited. He pointed to the road where a huge black mamba snake was stretched out trying to catch he last warmth of the day. "Well, he said, "You are so lucky. It’s very late in the season to see a black mamba." Then he casually mentioned that the venom is so powerful that it takes about 20 minutes for an average size human to die. Yikes! The snake left to go home and so did we. On the way he told us a story. The rangers also lived in little cabins. One night he came back to his cabin and noticed his soap and toothpaste were on the floor and the bathroom was a mess. And coiled up beside the sink was a black mamba. So he said, "I really like snakes but even I had to get an expert to remove that one." Didn’t sleep at all well that night.

The rides at dusk included a pause in the bush for wonderful South African wine and treats on the hood of the jeep. On our last night there was an enormous banquet in a clearing in the bush. It felt unsafe with lots of animal sounds, not a soundtrack but real bush animals just chatting away. They had rigged up a curtained area to serve as an outhouse but I think everyone managed to hold it.

For a passionate animal person Tau was perfect.


Close

Table Mountain is hard to miss. Standing proudly in the middle of Cape Town, Table Mountain was the first glimpse that I caught of South Africa as my ship sailed into the port. It looms over the city creating a dramatic backdrop to the area.Climbing…Read More

Table Mountain is hard to miss. Standing proudly in the middle of Cape Town, Table Mountain was the first glimpse that I caught of South Africa as my ship sailed into the port. It looms over the city creating a dramatic backdrop to the area.
Climbing Table Mountain isn’t for the weak of heart or in my case those unknowingly on the verge of full blown strep throat, fun times. Although this is one of the most climbed mountains in the world, hikers have taken a toll on the paths. Some of the areas have eroded causing areas to become very dangerous and sudden changes in the weather as well as fog have taken many lives. The climb takes on average 2-3 hours and offers several paths up. A few of my friends took the path from the Kiestenbosch National Botanical Gardens and several times faced nothing but rocks where they had to climb ladders. I believe the name of the path is called the Skeleton Gorge. My taxi driver was much kinder and dropped my group off at the entrance that faces the waterfront, near the cable cars. The route is known as the Pipe Track and is one of the easiest ways up. It is about 7km up and the path starts at Kloof Nek just off of Tafelberg Road.
The trip started off as most do; everyone gung-ho about making it to the top, but within the first hour we were dropping like flies (give me some credit I was sick and battling food poisoning). For the most part there is a well laid out path that leads up the mountain. Brush filled paths give way to large boulders that offer a place to sit, shade, and hide from the vultures that were looking to snack on my meaty legs. Although the people in my group claimed that they only saw sparrows and other small garden-variety birds I know that I saw a vulture eyeing me up for a mid-day meal.
An hour and a half into the climb I started to regret being a tight wad and not shelling out the R56.00 for a student ticket to ride the cable cars, but the views that I was getting couldn’t compete with the cable cars. Salvation came when I saw a V-rock formation that signaled that we were only minutes from the top,
Surprisingly the hardest part of the climb isn’t the climb. Once on top of the mountain the real danger begins as I dragged my lifeless body off of the path and to the cable car booth to beg for a ticket down. The top of the mountain offered encouraging signs like “Dangerous path” which needed to be taken to get to the cable cars. Four-foot high stone steps were between me and civilization with nothing but a chain to use to pull my body up from step to step, but there was yet another promising sign “Do not use chain to climb.” I did anyway.
Once we made the perilous trip to the cable car station we stopped at a small shop that was decorated with Coke signs and umbrellas (there is truly no place on this Earth to escape the grasp of Coke and Pepsi even on the top of a mountain). Outside of the shop is a pay phone where one of my friends decided to call home. At this point I should warn everyone that at the bottom of this mountain it was 90 degrees and where we were it was in the 40’s. Suddenly we heard sirens going off. Being tourists we ignored the alarms and went on our merry way. We looked around, took pictures, and then leisurely walked over to the cable cars only to find that they were shutting down and were all leaving. They graciously let us pay, but only in exact change so that we could go with them.
The cable car was a wonderful trip down the mountain. It rotates 360 degrees so that everyone has a view of the city and is able to see and laugh at other people climbing the mountain why you are gliding down it in luxury. We also got a wonderful view of Devil’s Peak, which we couldn’t see from where we were climbing.
The lower cable-car station is located on Tafelberg Road. Operation times change throughout the year. For more information call 021 424 5248 or check out there website at www.tablemountain.net
Although Table Mountain isn’t exactlyClose

The last time I visited the Viewing Deck, the view took my breath away—literally! A howling easterly wind was sweeping in across the sea and I was worried that the camera would be whipped from my hand as I tried to capture some of the…Read More

The last time I visited the Viewing Deck, the view took my breath away—literally! A howling easterly wind was sweeping in across the sea and I was worried that the camera would be whipped from my hand as I tried to capture some of the grand vistas below.

Wind or no wind, this is surely the best viewing point in Plettenberg Bay. It is also the best place to take in the magnificent expanse of the bay and a number of its best known features. I would recommend a visit here as soon as you have checked into your accommodation.

It is not without good reason that the Viewing Deck is located on top of Signal Hill. A visual sweep takes in the unmistakable Robberg (Seal Mountain) Peninsula to your right as it juts a couple of miles out to sea. Linking the Peninsula to Beacon Island below is the long, sandy expanse of Robberg Beach. The homes of the wealthy next to the golden sands look out to sea. Beacon Island, once a whaling station, has now been permanently joined to the mainland, and the renowned iconic Beacon Isle Hotel, facing in all directions, also offers great views. The Piesang (Banana) River used to flow either side of the island, but its waters have now been diverted to meet the sea at Central Beach.

Just out to sea, the movement of bobbing fishing boats vie for your attention along with beach activities on the beach. Kayak trips as well as whale and dolphin-watching boat tours launch from the beach below. Beyond Lookout Rocks to the left, a large sweep of the bay opens up the coastline as it unfolds towards the plateau and Tsitsikama Mountains on the horizon. Keurboom Strand and Arch Rock (see my review about “Early Man Lived near a Wonder of Nature”) can be made out in the distance with the aid of a pair of binoculars.

Getting to the Viewing Deck is easy. From the well known statue of The Dolphins in the High Street, take the one-way road up the hill, away from the shopping areas. At the T-junction at the end turn left into San Gonzales. The road passes the police station on your left and ends up in a small unsurfaced parking area with a large wooden flagpole and satellite dish dominating the landscape. The viewing deck has been placed on the very edge of this steeply sloping hill.

Wind or no wind, take 10 minutes to get a good look at the bay and the lower parts of “Plett” at your feet. It will improve your perspective of a town especially blessed by Mother Nature.Close

Due to the elements – warm weather, strong and unpredictable winds and dry vegetation – Table Mountain falls victim to fires every year. Most time the fires are killed in a few hours, without causing too much harm and devastation to nature and people’s lives…Read More

Due to the elements – warm weather, strong and unpredictable winds and dry vegetation – Table Mountain falls victim to fires every year. Most time the fires are killed in a few hours, without causing too much harm and devastation to nature and people’s lives and home. In some occasions, unfortunately, fires do cause a lot of harm.

On January 26th 2006 for instance. A massive fire swept along the lower and higher slopes of Table Mountain, burning a large part of the face of South Africa’s most important landmark, and Lion’s head and threatening several suburbs.

Again, like many other previous fires, this one was probably caused by a cigarette bud.

As someone who desperately loves Table Mountain - as you have read in my other journals - and all the other nature reserve in the Western Cape province: please do not smoke when being in nature. The fynbos vegetation during summer is incredibly dry and the winds are strong and unpredictable. These are the perfect ingredients for a massive fire I witnessed yesterday. Literally one spark is enough cause a lot of damage.

When you are out camping in the bush, always make sure you extinguish your campfire completely. Never leave glass behind, because the reflection of the sun through the glass onto for instance dry grass causes concentrated heath and thus fire.

Yesterdays fire was a massive one: one person died, houses caught fire and even at this stage the smoldering remains are a genuine threat: In Cape Town a breeze can rapidly develop into a strong south easterly wind, feeding the almost extinguished fires.

Have a look at my pictures, and see for yourself how devastating fires can be. Close

It is amazing: Mother Nature’s power. Yesterday a massive fire started on the lower slopes of Table Mountain, South Africa's most important landmark. In no time, the fire ate it self a way to the top and along the face of the mountain, with Lion's…Read More

It is amazing: Mother Nature’s power. Yesterday a massive fire started on the lower slopes of Table Mountain, South Africa's most important landmark. In no time, the fire ate it self a way to the top and along the face of the mountain, with Lion's Head as its destination.

Three fire helicopters flew off and on, trying to calm down the fire. Until 8pm that is, thus after sunset. The nightfall in combination with the strong wind and the low visibility made it impossible for the pilots to continue their job.

On moment of writing, the fires are under control. But the fire brigade remains on high alert and just like yesterday afternoon, the three fire helicopters try to do their utmost best to water bomb the fires and the smoldering remains of fynbos and trees.

At this stage, Table Mountain and Lion's Head look like charcoal sketches, smoking in the breeze. And it is this breeze that is so incredibly dangerous; in this part of the country a breeze can rapidly turn into a strong southeasterly wind, which will certainly feed the remaining fires and make them flare up.
While standing next to the water reservoir with my camera, while the helicopters one by one filled up, I felt intrigued and sad at the same time. Yes, I was morbidly fascinated by what I saw. Fire is interesting. I also felt sadness; this fire, like other this season, was caused by a cigarette bud. Besides from nature being ravaged, one person died: a 65-year-old lady who was out walking on the lower slopes of the mountain.

I do have to admit: I am a smoker. But as a smoker, I also know that you just do not smoke in nature!. The results are simply too devastating. This events proves it once again. Close

Having acclimatised ourselves, we were ready to grace the big city with our presence. We knew from the guidebooks that there was loads to do in Cape Town, but we had identified our intentions… Naturally Table Mountain was a must, and, as we headed towards the…Read More

Having acclimatised ourselves, we were ready to grace the big city with our presence. We knew from the guidebooks that there was loads to do in Cape Town, but we had identified our intentions…

Naturally Table Mountain was a must, and, as we headed towards the city, we got tantalising views of this mighty landmark. The day was perfect for viewing, so we headed directly for the mountain. It was hard to think that we could get lost with Table Mountain as our point of orientation, but we succeeded! The route to the top was not easy to find, and, because of the lack of traffic, we were able to meander through the back streets until we finally stumbled on a sign indicating, "Cable Car to Table Mountain". That seemed like a good route to follow and, you know what, it led us to our destination. More surprisingly, we got there without major disagreement!

There were no queues, and we were rapidly on route for the top. As we progressed on our journey, the cable car slowly rotated, ensuring that everyone got a decent view. There’s ample time to take photos, but be prepared for the upright supports getting in the way as the car turns.

The view from the top was all we had anticipated and more, and the sky was the clearest blue imaginable. You should check on the time of the guided tour (it’s free) as soon as you get to the top. This is well worth the effort, as the volunteer guides take you around the mountaintop pointing out the best views, the local flora (our guide told us there were almost 1,500 different plant species on the mountain including over 500 different heathers, almost 100 irises, and numerous varieties of fynbos). I don’t claim to have seen them all, but, even in February, there was a huge variety in flowers, and the heather collection made my home collection, of almost a dozen, seem highly insignificant.

We were introduced to the nearest relative of the elephant. It’s hard to believe, as the Rock Dassie is only 20 inches long and 8 inches tall. It was fascinating to watch the two Dassies as they picked their way over and around the rocks, munching on grass and leaves as they went. One seemed to pause and consider sunbathing for a while (or was that partly my imagination), saw the audience, heard the click of the paparazzi’s camera lens, and scurried behind the nearest fynbos plant.

We lost track of time up on Table Mountain, as the view from the top changes at every turn. The hues of the rock; the reflections in the sea; the distant views of the rolling mountain as they stretch towards the Cape of Good Hope; Robben Island; Cape Town; the guardian rock formations of Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head were laid out in front of us, as if part of a giant tapestry. It was awesome and will provide a memory for the rest of our lives. On our downward journey, we noticed a few brave souls who had decided to walk the slopes; they were mere scratches on the view below, but received some of our admiration for their determination.

The journey onward to our new accommodation, just outside of Milnerton, was in silence as we contemplated our experience of the Mountain, in what must have been perfect weather conditions. Our only regret was that, in our rush to the cable car, we had forgotten to take our hats with us. The sun is mighty fierce up there, as our red faces would bear testimony to.

That evening we travelled a few miles further north to Blaubourg to experience the "classic view of the mountain" from Bloubergstrand beach. We sat on the beach and enjoyed the relaxing sound of the waves running onto the shore and watched the sun go down over the sea. Just a stones throw from here are a whole host of restaurants offering decent dining.

On day two, our first priority was to make the 11km boat trip from the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront to Robben Island, now a UN World Heritage site. As everyone knows, this island, in the middle of Table Bay, was the island where Nelson Mandela was held prisoner for 18 years, from 1962 to 1990, much of it under hard labour. As with many islands, it had been used for segregation in its history, as it had been formally a leper colony (The only colony still evident on the island is that of the Jackass penguins). This organised tour is lead by former inmates and they effectively set the atmosphere on the boat journey, the bus tour of the island, and, finally, the tour around the prison block, their old cells, and, of course, the cell occupied by Mr. Mandela, as they respectfully refer to him. It’s a very moving and emotionally harrowing experience, and now hard to imagine the experience that all occupants in South Africa had to undergo as they began to move forward to achieve equality. The dialogue we were able to have with the tour guides was most informative, and I was surprised at how balanced an interpretation of their experiences they gave us. I did not hear bitterness or anger, but a clear view as to how their struggle was beginning to impact of the current generation of South Africans. We were particularly impressed, if that’s the right word, with the quarry where Nelson Mandela and his fellow prisoners had "suffered" the ordeal of hard labour. A poignant reminder of their solidarity was evident at the entrance to the quarry, as, at a recent "reunion" of prisoners, they had formed a pile of rocks as a symbol of their freedom and to confirm their memories of their Robben Island experience. You can’t visit Cape Town and not experience the trip to Robben Island. IT WILL HAVE AN IMPACT ON YOU.

As we disembarked, we noticed a resting area for seals. When these mammals tire of swimming, they drag themselves up to a "veranda" and sun themselves in full view of shoppers and tourists.

Shopping was next on the agenda, and we spent some time wandering around the shops and sights of The V&A Centre. There are many exciting buildings and developments in the harbour, and we enjoyed watching the boats pass through the swing bridge and the local jazz band that proficiently performed outside one of the many open-air restaurants. Take in the sights and enjoy the buzz that you can feel as you saunter around the harbour.

You should also feel free to wander the streets of Cape Town. Enjoy the brightly coloured buildings, the mix of English Victoriana and traditional cape residences, the cobbles square of Greenmarket, the majesty of City Hall, and, of course, the many pavement cafes. Take time to people watch – after all, there is no hurry. But, time your exit from Cape Town outside of rush hour. We miscalculated and spent an inordinate amount of time in a traffic jam. Not that we cared - we were on holiday and had had a terrific second day in Cape Town.

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Our first trip to South Africa started in the leafy suburbs of the university town of Stellenbosch. We purposely avoided the hustle and bustle of Cape Town as our starter, so that we could properly orientate ourselves. Stellenbosch is only a short drive to the…Read More

Our first trip to South Africa started in the leafy suburbs of the university town of Stellenbosch. We purposely avoided the hustle and bustle of Cape Town as our starter, so that we could properly orientate ourselves.

Stellenbosch is only a short drive to the east of Cape Town, and we followed an easy route from the airport. On route we saw our first glimpse of grazing zebras and fields of ostriches and took in the magnificent views of the Stellenbosh mountain range. Mountains we intended to explore, as hidden here are the delights of the South African Viticulturist. It is in heart of the wine country, first successfully cultivated following the arrival of the Dutch, and is the second oldest town in South Africa, being established in 1679. We reckon it’s been incredibly well preserved and a walk down Dorp Street will go towards proving that fact. One of the residents told me that this street has been declared a national monument as it has the longest row of old buildings in South Africa. I’m not sure, but it certainly is well worth a walk, as you’ll observe tiny terraced houses, large and luxurious residences, and several old emporiums. Oom Samie se Winkel’s is one and this is well worth popping into. Be careful as you try to maneuver your way around this shop – it is crammed with all manners of bric-a-brac, traditional South African goods, and, of course, souvenirs. This street seems to be the heart and soul of the town and is, like many other streets in Stellenbosch, framed by arrows of majestic oak trees. Indeed Stellenbosch is also known as Eikestad - town of oaks. The shady streets of Stellenbosch are lined with open-air restaurants and coffee shops that entice you to enter with the wafts of freshly ground coffee.

The Stellenbosch Village Museum, on Ryneveld Street, provides you with a chance to visit a superb group of historic houses ranging in periods from the early 1700s to the mid-1800s. Each one has been tastefully restored and furnished in the style of its particular period. The great added value is the presence of a supervising expert who overlooks the property, is not intrusive, but will tell you about the house if you ask.

Stellenbosch proved to be a very relaxed and gentle place to start our holiday. It feels so fresh and colourful and is free of any tension. We could walk the streets day and night without feeling any threat; indeed there was only the suggestion that there were any no-go areas. This was a recommendation that we should avoid the river walk at night – an extremely sensible suggestion, as it was unlit and unpaved – and something that we would not even consider if we were back home. However, a walk down the river, during daylight, was undertaken – that was fun, not eventful – and gave the chance to walk "off-piste" and away from the hustle and bustle of central Stellenbosh.

The staff at the tourist office was really helpful and was able to advise on the Wine Route and places to see in the town. Most of the interesting sites are close by, as indeed are the main shops (you are on Market Street). Places to visit are the Toy Museum; Die Braak (the Town Square) where you’ll see a number of interesting buildings; The Old Powder House) (1777); the Church of St Mary (1852); the Coachman's Cottage; and the old Burgerhuis (1797).

From here we were able to have a couple of days exploring on the wine route, and, of all the towns we saw, I would recommend Stellenbosch as your base. It is a town you can easily walk around, has plenty to see, and is crammed with decent restaurants.

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To try and describe the unique southern African metropolis of Cape Town without mentioning its imposing Table Mountain backdrop, would be like describing an elephant without its trunk. Even so, the magnificent, often mist enshrouded, cliffs that soar a full kilometre into the sky, are not…Read More

To try and describe the unique southern African metropolis of Cape Town without mentioning its imposing Table Mountain backdrop, would be like describing an elephant without its trunk.

Even so, the magnificent, often mist enshrouded, cliffs that soar a full kilometre into the sky, are not the only fascinating feature of this cosmopolitan enclave nestled comfortably on the far south western tip of the great African continent. The "Mother City’s" rich history, cultural and political independence, stunning location, and mild climate qualify Cape Town as one of the world’s truly great cities.

Like so many African ports, Cape Town began as a strategic and economic colonial outpost. Ironically, the port was established on the strength of glowing reports of the bay that reached the opportunistic Dutch East India Company when one of their vessels, Haerlem, foundered there in 1647. The attractive, fertile land and largely cooperative, if somewhat gullible, native Hottentots enabled a refreshment station to be set up in the 1650s to service the many ships plying the trade routes between Holland and southeast Asia.

As a direct result of its location, function and traffic, a startlingly diverse population gradually evolved, incorporating examples of the many European, Asian, and African cultures that were continually traversing its busy harbour. Despite South Africa’s turbulent history, Kaapstad has maintained a relatively stable and racially harmonious constituency. Its largely liberal inhabitants kept themselves mostly at an arm’s length from the turmoil and bitterness that swept much of the rest of the province over the centuries, even if it meant fighting it off at times.

The Afrikaan independence movement was born out of the wider Cape Colony in 1837. When the mainly farming and god-fearing, Dutch-descended Boers became disgruntled with liberal British rule, they pushed off to the uncharted innards of the Transvaal, in an act now known as The Great Trek, to set up their own republic.

The famous statesman and entrepreneur, Cecil Rhodes, who formed the scholarship that bears his name, was Prime Minister of the Cape Colony from 1890 to 1896 and died there amid scandal in 1901.

Tourism has certainly become one of the city’s great strengths, drawing nearly one million visitors per year from around the globe. With a head-spinning assortment of activities ranging from the mammoth Cape Argus Cycle Classic, a world class aquarium, Ratanga Junction Theme Park, Newlands International Sports Arena (mainly cricket and rugby), motor racing at Killarney, water sports of all kinds plus others like horse-riding, flying and 4WDing.

A day trip around Cape Town is a whirlwind, eye-popping affair as you venture to pristine beaches and the homes of the Capetonian glitterati at Camps Bay through lush, verdant forests, past historic naval and fishing villages like Simon’s Town and Hout Bay, to staggering seaside vistas that stretch all the way to the Cape of Good Hope.

Short cruises are also popular out of the serene little harbour at Hout (Wood) Bay, and for less than A$10, you can jump aboard a launch to see the ludicrous overpopulation of Cape Fur Seals on nearby Duiker Island that, courtesy of the ample food source, also boasts a healthy representation of voracious Great Whites. While you are on an aquatic fauna roll, be sure to visit the little colony of Jackass Penguins near Shelley Beach, named so no-doubt, for their distinct ass-like outbursts.

For an alternative view of the city, pop out to Robben Island, a short 10km off the coast. Variously a ship’s larder, insane asylum, and military prison at different times, it once housed Nelson Mandela and is now a popular stop on the historically persuaded visitor’s itinerary.

No visit could be considered complete unless one rides the breathtaking revolving cable car to the top of Table Mountain. Not the tourist doddle it may appear, the sheer slopes are plagued by sudden and violent windstorms that are heralded by an ominous siren at the top station. The entire flat top of the feature can also be quickly enveloped in dense mist and cloud, locally called the tablecloth, that may appear mystical and surreal at sea level, but is a damn nuisance when trying to enjoy the view from atop.

Lucky day-trippers, not hampered by the aforementioned hazards, can occupy themselves walking around examining the many rewarding vantage points or observing the unique flora and fauna. The latter consists mainly of furry, little dassies; several lizard species; and feral Himalayan Goats, or tahrs. Adventure-prone types can throw themselves off the summit in the company of like-minded abseilers in a seemingly suicidal display that really looks much more dangerous than it is. The better heeled can partake in a helicopter observation that affords a unique perspective guaranteed to equip any visitor with ample dinner table yarns to last a lifetime.

After your adrenalin-filled sightseeing, wrap up the day lounging around the superb Kirstenbosch Botanic Gardens. Pleasantly shaded from the late afternoon sun, this park contains some of the most impressive specimens of the abundant local flora. Open-air concerts are also a feature of world-class location.

Shopping: another inescapable pastime for the modern adventurer is well catered for in Cape Town. There are all the usual malls and markets, with the crowning glory unlikely to be surpassed by the Victoria and Alfred (yes, Alfred) Waterfront where the Gucci-gazers and Versace-ophiles are not going to be disappointed. Be careful not to pay too much for any of the mass-produced, "native" artifacts abundant throughout South Africa, and do some serious homework before taking on the diamond and gem traders that abound downtown.

Driving is not too arduous around town, but South Africans, both black and white, are a bit complacent about road safety. Speeding, jaywalking, drinking, and unroadworthy vehicles are too common for anybody’s liking and the public transport system is pretty ordinary by Australian standards. Minibus taxis, although cheap, are something of a lottery. The advice being if you don’t like the look of one, don’t get in it! The more reliable operators work out of the major hotels.

On the South African measuring stick, Cape Town is a safe city, but all the usual precautions apply. Don’t walk after dark, especially alone, and don’t carry unnecessary valuables. When driving, lock all your doors, and it is quite acceptable to run a red light late at night rather than sit vulnerable to carjackers.

In spite of the tribulations in the rest of the country, Cape Town is experiencing a healthy renaissance, driven mainly by tourism. Some of the credit must go to the recently revitalised Cape Town Tourism operation run by the dynamic Sheryl Ozinsky. Fresh from the complete reorganisation of Cape Town’s Symphony Orchestra and the creation, from scratch, of the Two Oceans Aquarium, Ozinsky is applying her trademark zeal to the post of Tourism Director. "We have to respect each other and the people who visit our city and truly believe that we all stand to gain from making Cape Town a safe and attractive place."

Be sure to visit Cape Town Tourism’s plush new location in Burg Street for the multitude of experiences available.

Website: www.cape-town.org

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Driving is an extreme sport in South Africa. The highways we traveled were in good condition, but South Africans drive FAST. My husband was pulled over on a two-lane highway for driving too slow in the right (their passing)…Read More

Driving is an extreme sport in South Africa. The highways we traveled were in good condition, but South Africans drive FAST. My husband was pulled over on a two-lane highway for driving too slow in the right (their passing) lane. He was going over 60 m/h and we thought he was being stopped for speeding. We waited to tackle "city" driving until we acclimated to driving on the left side of the road. Most South African highways are in good condition, but many are single lane with wide shoulders. You are expected to pull over to the shoulder to allow fast moving cars to pass you, so keeping an eye on the rear view mirror is a good idea. The shoulders are also used around villages for walking, carts, picking up passengers and some times pedestrian animals. You must be alert and able to see well so we rarely drove after dark.

We both started out driving, but after our second day I left the driving to my husband. A good navigator (that was me) is a must since I think most South African signs assume you already know where you are going and are there only to confirm that, "yup, this is the place you turn right NOW!" It takes a little getting use to driving on the left side of the road, but harder is shifting. My husband kept grabbing the door handle. Our first car was a manual transmission and it was the last! We rented from AVIS, which had good road maps in their magazine. We also came to South Africa with maps and excellent directions to every Guest House we stayed at. We bought more maps with more details of cities when we had trouble finding the Port Elizabeth Airport.

For city slickers, dirt roads may be a challenge, but both my husband and I grew up in the US SW and learned to drive on dirt roads. Being the dry season where a lot of the dirt roads we drove on were located was a big plus. I don’t know how I would feel about those same roads in the wet season.

South Africa is a large and varied country, so driving gives you the opportunity to see and appreciate the scenery of some of the regions. On the other hand, because South Africa is so large we also flew to cover more territory.

Areas we toured by car were the South African Cape from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, Kwazulu Natal region north of Durban, Pilansberg area northwest of Johannesburg, Northern Drakensberg mountains east of Kruger and Kruger National Park.

A good Web site for planning car routes is Travel Routes .

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