The Swiss public transport system is not only the epitome of the nation's famed reputation for good organisation and cleanliness, but also extensively covers what is one of the most beautiful parts of Europe. Therefore, it seemed to me that making a scenic railway…Read More

The Swiss public transport system is not only the epitome of the nation's famed reputation for good organisation and cleanliness, but also extensively covers what is one of the most beautiful parts of Europe. Therefore, it seemed to me that making a scenic railway excursion was an obvious thing to do whilst in the country. In fact, one of my primary motivations for going to Lugano was that I could return from the city on the Bernina Express, one of the routes intended to provide visitors with almost unrivalled opportunities to enjoy the spectacular mountainous backdrops.

The first leg involved leaving Ticino and traverses the pleasant rolling hills of Lombardy towards Tirano, spending a lot of time on the shores of Lake Como in the process. Under normal circumstances, the countryside outside would definitely be worthy of a few superlatives, but on this particular occasion, it simply could not compete with what was to come later. Therefore, I was extremely pleased to have started in the south rather than finishing there, as that would have probably proved to an anticlimax.

Unfortunately, the connection left no time to explore after arriving in the town, which is supposedly a fairly picturesque little place, as the main part of the journey was due to start almost immediately. The first noticeable thing after boarding was the carriage itself, the design of which enabled the maximum possible appreciation of the outside world. The unbelievably large windows extended almost to the very top of the train, and ran its entire length with the minimum possible interruption.

It did not take too long after getting underway and crossing back over the border before encountering the first real point of interest. The bridge at Bivio is an eye-catching and highly unusual structure that loops 360 degrees whilst gaining height. It is a fine example of the sort of ingenious devices used to handle steep gradients as an alternative to the more usual cogwheels. Due to such innovative feats of engineering, the act of constructing the line is quite possibly almost as impressive as the terrain that it passes through. In fact, the builders did not seem daunted when faced with the immense obstacle that is the Alps, but rather, they rose to the challenge with considerable aplomb.

The climb into the mountains then continues through a series of tight bends up towards the icy heights of Alp Grüm, and it was then that the spectacular vistas associated with the region came into view for the very first time. In addition, the true uniqueness of the experience became fully apparent. After all, how many other railways transport people from lakeside palm trees to snow covered peaks in the space of just a few hours?

Having eventually reached the highest point, over 7,000 feet, the train travels through the rugged landscape that has enabled the ancient Romansh language to survive to the present day, and which is home to illustrious ski resorts such as St Moritz, Davos and Klosters. It then follows the time-honoured path through the Bernina and Albula Passes that has facilitated a link between northern Italy and the heart of Switzerland for hundreds of years. Although the former is undoubtedly lovely and obviously inspired the evocative name of the express, the latter is more interesting, mainly because of the viaduct over a deep gorge that curves majestically whilst linking the mouth of a tunnel and a section of track along a narrow ridge.

The final stretch, the descent towards Chur, was literally, and also somewhat metaphorically, downhill all of the way. But whilst admittedly not quite as aesthetically spectacular as what had gone before, the views were still very nice, and it proved to be a fine epilogue to a wonderful few hours.

The only real drawback of the trip is the price of the tickets, which was not far short of 100 francs one-way when the compulsory reservation fee is included. However, I would still wholeheartedly recommend doing it to anyone who does not find the cost to be too off putting, as it is definitely an unforgettable way to experience truly wonderful panoramas.

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THE TRANG ISLES – HEAVEN WITH THE HEAT TURNED UPA Travel Photographer's Guideby Dave Underwood Planning a holiday? Fancy a tropical paradise with knockout scenery where you can do everything or nothing with like-minded travellers or just your own shadow for company? A place where the…Read More

THE TRANG ISLES – HEAVEN WITH THE HEAT TURNED UP
A Travel Photographer's Guide
by Dave Underwood

 

Planning a holiday? Fancy a tropical paradise with knockout scenery where you can do everything or nothing with like-minded travellers or just your own shadow for company? A place where the fantasy changes every day?

Well, it'll cost you.

Around USD40 a day, actually. If you want to live it up a bit, that is. That's what we paid for a month's holiday on Thailand's Andaman Coast; about USD1000 each, and we're not backpackers.

Paradise has a new name and there's more than 1,000 kilometres to explore, much of it still unaffected by Thailand's tourism tentacles. The Andaman Coast is Thailand's western seaboard, stretching from Myanmar to Malaysia and our journey began in Phuket, Thailand's Pearl of the South -- resort central for those big on consumerism and short on culture.

Now don't get me wrong, Phuket has enough to keep the traveller occupied for a while, but you'll have to look for it. This sanitised mecca for sun worshippers, newly weds and package tourists exists almost everywhere yet rarely succeeds in being anywhere. So, after finding our feet, we headed south in search of a more authentic experience. Sure enough, in Trang we found Soul Food in the Deep South, but we were totally unprepared for its nearby offshore treasures.

Please note that although the images in this album have been compressed to maximise loading speed, the entire collection may take a few minutes to load on slower connections. These pictures are hosted on servers external to IgoUgo. Please be patient; any problems viewing the album may not be related to this site.

The purpose of this journal is twofold. Aside from showcasing the largely unspoilt wonders of Trang's islands and the beauty that awaits visitors to Thailand's southern treasures, I've included some tips for keen amateur photographers that may help you get more from your next travel experience.

Enjoy the album!

 

"Local advice is the best advice"

Trang is a lively, rich and friendly town, built on a successful rubber industry, and now home to more than 50,000 people. It's also handy to a group of nearby islands generally unaffected by tourism and, consequently, not listed in many guidebooks. Our problem was deciding which islands to visit, so we applied one of the reliable laws of successful travel: When you want some good advice, then ask a local.

Remaining faithful to the law we departed for Ko Sukorn, a small island to the south, which was highly recommended by "Happy Hans" who, with his wife Ani, owned Trang's only secondhand bookshop. Hans' passion for the island ran a close second to his liking for the exceptional local beer, so we considered it reliable advice indeed.

Don't forget to use black-and-white when you think it's appropriate. It's often a valuable way to present portraits and can add a new and interesting dimension to your album or travel portfolio.

"Luxury on a budget"

Our longtail boat glided onto Sukorn's northern beach and we climbed into the back of a Toyota pickup, one of the island's four vehicles. It was barely a five-minute trip to Sukorn Beach Bungalows on the south coast.

A small wooden bridge led over lily ponds painted pink and green in the morning sun, then through a coconut plantation to a collection of bungalows – maybe ten – arranged in two rows to face the ocean. Out front was a one-kilometre long stretch of clean, flat sand and not a person in sight.

"The Land of Smiles"

Our bungalow boasted a large cold water bathroom, sheltered patio overlooking the sea, and was tastefully decorated with furniture crafted from the island's timber. Electricity was limited to a few hours each evening and the bungalows were equipped with fans to provide relief when there was no sea breeze.

Adjacent the bungalows was the main building, a small traditional style structure with an attached thatch-roofed restaurant fronting the sand. We sat with two local girls, children of one of the employees, who were curious to meet a couple of new travellers. Their shy but openly warm and friendly manner could have been an advertisement for Thailand, the Land of Smiles.

When photographing people you meet, try and take the time to engage them before asking for a picture – you'll be rewarded with a more relaxed and natural pose. Close down the aperture to blur the background and use a portrait setting, usually a focal length of around 80-135mm, to get the kindest results and allow you to step back from your subject.

"Fishing and rubber farming pay the bills"

2,500 Thai Muslims live in four tiny villages spread across the eight-by-four kilometre island. Ko Sukorn's local name is actually Ko Muu, meaning "pig island", which is curious given the persuasion of its inhabitants.

Fishing and rubber farming are the main industries, and it's widely acknowledged that this is the home of Thailand's finest watermelons – a reputation we were pleased to confirm.

Environmental portraits, like this one of the rubber farmers, are perfect for creative monochrome treatment. This is a selenium tone applied to a black-and-white conversion using manipulation of the red and blue colour curves.

"Squid and Rice; two of the island staples"

Our days were spent exploring the villages and beaches. Vivid rice fields fringed by forested hills of rubber farms gave way to coastal coconut plantations and the occasional haphazard collection of fishermen’s houses. Sometimes there would be racks of squid lying out to dry in the wet heat, arranged in curiously uniform rows like a kind of seafood mosaic. It seemed that wherever we went there was a photo opportunity, the colours, shapes and textures encouraging our creativity.

"Relaxing comes easy here"

One of our favourite beaches is at the southern end of the island. It’s a one-hour walk that we liked to do early in the morning before it got too hot. The swimming is good here and there is a shop in the small village that sells basic supplies – unrefrigerated, of course.

We would sit and share a hand of a dozen small, sweet bananas, freshly sliced watermelon, and guzzle a large bottle of water for less than a dollar. All this would be generally followed by a swim and a chat with the local fishermen before returning to the bungalows and planning the rest of the day.

Always stay on the lookout for evocative statements of a location. Images like these scream tropical! and the panorama format used for subjects like the group of longtails emphasises their shape.

"Paradise Found"

Back at the bungalows we would rarely have to share space with more than a few people. On our patio one night we were marvelling at another vivid sunset when I was sure I had discovered the definition of paradise.

"Look," I said to Karen, marching off to the beach, back again, and then to the restaurant.
"Fifteen paces to the sand, thirty-one to the water, and eighteen to the restaurant."
"Wow," said Karen. "We need to find you a book to read. You’re dangerous when you run out of things to do."

Photographing sunsets is easier than you might think. Do two things right and you’ll usually get a decent shot. Firstly, above all else, keep the horizon straight. Then spot meter for just left or right of the sun. This way the sun won’t blow out and you’ll retain that lovely colour.

"Day tripping in style"

Instead of finding another book, we grabbed a longtail and a navigator and opted for a day trip to the surrounding islands. Most are easily accessible and their deserted shores are a haven for beachcombers and snorkellers.

First up, around an hour away, is Koh Lao Lieng, which is actually two islands. There’s a wonderful beach here at the southern end of the largest island and a small temporary fishing village. It’s a natural amphitheatre and the surrounding cliffs shelter vast caves. Some of them lead up to ledges far above the water, providing diving practice for the adventurous.

Sometimes its easy to get carried away with vast and beautiful landscapes. A wide angle shot often cannot do the scene justice. Try focusing on a small, high impact area of the scene for the most atmospheric results.

"Heaven with the heat turned up"

Thirty minutes from Ko Lao Lieng is Ko Takieng, a tiny island with pure white powder coves on its eastern side above the water and 100-foot visibility below it. Schools of parrot fish teemed around us as we explored the coral ledges and shallow ocean floor.

Apparently it’s these fish that are responsible for the impossibly fine and white sand on the beaches here; it’s a waste product from the coral they consume.

"The little things"

I lay on the talcum-like sand while Karen combed the beach for treasures cast aside by the tide, surrounded by a paradise accidentally discovered on a whim and chance conversation with a local in Trang four days ago. Thank God for Happy Hans and Ani. I must thank them when we get back into town.

Karen returned triumphant, a collection of tiny treasures in tow and we discussed the merits of traditional noodles and fresh garlic and pepper squid that our restaurant had made its signature dish. Hard work, this travelling caper.

No doubt about it, this really is heaven with the heat turned up.Don’t forget the little things – they’re often just as crucial in defining a destination. Switch to macro and grab some colourful close-ups.

 

You've reached the end of another Ozzy-Dave Virtual Visual Vacation

All words and images ©2005 Dave Underwood

Visit my website at Windlewood Creative Solutions
See my travel images at the OZImages Stock Photography Site

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Loitering in Luganoby Dave Underwood Geography for 20 points. Where am I? The climate is Mediterranean, the people open, carefree and passionate. The trains are never late, the gardens immaculate, and everything is in its place. Italy? Switzerland? I’ll pay either. The atlas says Lugano…Read More

Loitering in Lugano
by Dave Underwood

Geography for 20 points. Where am I? The climate is Mediterranean, the people open, carefree and passionate. The trains are never late, the gardens immaculate, and everything is in its place. Italy? Switzerland? I’ll pay either.

The atlas says Lugano is in Switzerland but, as the name suggests, this picture-postcard paradise clings to its Italian roots. 8% of Switzerland call Italian their native language and live mostly in the south-central district of Ticino, separated from Italy by palm-tree studded lakes and the Alp’s lush foothills. Ticino belonged to pre-Italian states until the Swiss took it over in 1512, and it’s been part of Switzerland ever since.

The idea of Italian dining, balmy climate and breathtaking scenery combined with Swiss precision and order is irresistible, yet somehow puzzling. A bit like enjoying fantastic pasta without getting sauce down your front.

Lugano is irresistible – a slice of Italy in Switzerland. We stopped for a look and stayed four days. Here are four reasons why.

A TOWN WITH A VIEW
Lugano’s 30,000 residents have it all – water, mountains and weather. Historic stone houses mingle with resorts and colourful parks around a waterfront that mirrors the alpine peaks and lush hills surrounding it. The town squeezes between two of these hills, Monte San Salvatore and Monte Bre, both serviced by funicular railways providing visitors with unrivalled views and access to a host of walking trails.

With perfect weather between March and November, this is the Swiss Riviera. It takes barely half-an-hour to walk across town and the delightful old city centre and railway station are centrally located overlooking the lake. Hilly, traffic-free cobblestone lanes meander through the shopping and historical districts, offering frequent glimpses of the surrounding landscape.

The stunning views continue on and around the lake. 15 acres of civic parks and gardens line the waterfront and a beach and swimming pools complete the picture.

When your feet get sore you can take to the lake on any of the regular boat services for uninterrupted views and a totally indulgent experience. On a sunny day, and they usually are, you won’t want to be anywhere else. Navigazione Lugano sell 1,3 and 7-day passes that are the best value if you’re planning a few trips.

ALFRESCO APPETITE
The Ticinese people were mountain-peasants who ate simple and hearty food. Thankfully, traditions are fiercely protected and northern Italian cuisine dominates today’s Lugano.

Mountain game, fish, mushrooms, risotto and thick vegetable soups are common delights. The usual variety of cold meats and sharp, hard cheeses are used as well as delicate goat cheese from the surrounding mountains. The local wine is as warm and generous as the hospitality. Deep, ruby-red Merlot is poured from a pitcher or decanter and you pay for what you drink.

Then, of course, there are the ubiquitous gelato shops and pasticcerias for that customary alfresco indulgence. Lugano’s climate is tailor made for this cuisine, and if you search out the many family-run trattorias and tavernas you’ll be assured of an authentic experience.

Now the bad news. You could be excused for thinking you’re in Italy but you’ll remember where you are when you get the bill. This is Switzerland – it’s expensive. Here are a couple of authentic, well-priced places we can recommend:

1. La Tinera. On Via dei Gorini in the old town, this lively taverna serves regional specialties and pasta to die for.
2. Pestalozzi. Eccentric locals and hearty food in the hotel of the same name on Corso Pestalozzi.

WALKING ON SUNSHINE
Hillsides and valleys of colour sprinkled with cool forests, an occasional village of old stone houses and picturesque waterfront frescoed resort-towns. All this, backed by distant snow-capped peaks under a Mediterranean sun that won’t quit. That’s what you can expect if you’re out for a walk around Lugano.

Dozens of footpaths cross the countryside and it’s easy to design your own walks, visiting places of interest and finishing in beautiful lakeside towns where you can catch a boat back to Lugano. Here are two sensational walks we did, and you can get more ideas from the Tourist Office:

1. Take a funicular to the top of San Salvatore, then follow any of the trails down the mountain through the villages of Ciona, Carona and Torello to the beautiful resort of Morcote. Allow four hours. Boats back to Lugano take an hour.
2. Explore Lugano’s Civic Park and the Lido before heading down Via Riviera to Castagnola and the start of the waterfront walk to Gandria. Allow two hours. Boats back to Lugano take 30 minutes.

CULTURAL CRAVINGS
Lugano gets its share of sun worshippers and resort junkies but it hasn’t completely surrendered to the pitfalls of tourist-mania. The "Rio of the Old World" is its nickname and Lugano’s reputation as the district’s cultural and artistic centre is well-deserved.

Cathedrals, churches and villas line the old town and many museums exhibit impressive collections of modern and contemporary art, sculpture and photography.

The short walk to Castagnola reveals an extraordinary private art collection in the glorious 16th century mansion of Villa Favorita. The grounds of the villa are splendid and a visit here can easily be combined with a walk to the village of Gandria.

Lugano has plenty of attractions to satisfy serious culture-vultures, but even the culturally-challenged will be surprised by some of its treasures. Here are our favourites:

1. Villa Favorita. You’ll be left spellbound by this mansion in Castagnola and its incomparable art collection.
2. Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angeli. This 15th century church in Piazza Luini houses some of Switzerland’s most amazing frescos.
3. Museum of Modern Art. An enormous collection of international and Ticinese artists is displayed in Villa Malpensata on Riva Antonio Caccia.

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Let‘s start with some general data. Switzerland is a very small country in Central Europe – you have to multiply its area by 328,5 times to have the area of the USA, or by 340 to have the area of Canada. Ok- now let…Read More

Let‘s start with some general data. Switzerland is a very small country in Central Europe – you have to multiply its area by 328,5 times to have the area of the USA, or by 340 to have the area of Canada.

Ok- now let me remind you of the title of this piece -southern Switzerland - and think of how often you have read something about southern Switzerland (or Ticino, as it is called). I mean, my country is so small, how can someone describe a small part of something already tiny? Sounds ridiculous, right? Well, let me inform you that you are wrong. I can and I will.

The British-Hungarian satirist George Mikes once wrote in a book called "Switzerland for Beginners" that Switzerland is the largest country in the world. He was right. Think of any large country you know well (e.g. Canada or America), then think of all its different ethnic varieties and regional differences and compare them with Switzerland. We Swiss have more – therefore we win logically. Thus, our country must be larger than yours.

So what are our differences? I‘ll just mention one as an example: we don‘t have our own national language (Swiss does not exist) but we have 4 languages that our government designated as national languages: German, French, Italian and Reto-Romanic. The same government, however, designated German, French and Italian as official languages but decided that Reto-Romanic is not an official one. It’s still a national one. Pretty confusing, right?

I was born and raised in a small village in Southern Switzerland, in the Italian speaking area (a relatively large area with a small population), and due to the obvious language barrier, we share more affinities with neighbouring Italy rather than with the rest of our country. As I said before, we all speak Italian here, our diet is based on Italian food only (meaning pasta and pizza galore), we study Italian history at school, we wear Italian clothes, we talk with our hands, we‘re hot tempered, and we are all born Roman Catholic. Yet, call us Italian only if you want to offend us deeply. We are true Swiss people – we only talk, look, eat, study and pray like the Italians – so don‘t mix us up. Pretty confusing, right? Don‘t worry – even the rest of Switzerland is confused over us. They don’t know what to make of us so, as a rule of thumb, they simply ignore us.

By some twist of fate, even our region (Ticino) looks different than the rest of Switzerland. Foreigners who visit Switzerland go home and tell tales of breathtaking mountains, pristine lakes, old wooden cottages, cities selling chocolate, cheese, watches and army knives at every corner. It‘s all true– there! Here, it is not! Foreigners come to Switzerland to see that, because that is their exotic image of Switzerland. After all, why not? I went to the Grand Canyon and New York – my exotic representation of the USA. It‘s exactly the same story.

Here, it‘s a different story. In general only Swiss tourists come and spend some time in Ticino – they too like exotic places - and they have one right at their doorstep. What‘s handier than that? They don‘t need a passport to travel, no confusing foreign currency to worry about (it works in the same way as at home), public transportation is reliable like in the rest of the country and, especially, they will not have to take the trouble to speak or learn a foreign language. We Ticinesi are very obliging – we have to learn all their languages at school – so we let them communicate in their own language.

To make things easier, in the summer months– when hoards of our country-fellows come visit us- in the most tourist destinations we forget our language altogether, so they can feel at home. Therefore from late fall to early spring, in my favourite coffee-shop in Locarno, I order my coffee and croissant in Italian to the waiter Gerardo, while during the rest of the year (in the same coffee-shop – Gerardo still being the waiter) I order coffee and croissant generally in German and at times, even in French.

Well, what does southern Switzerland have that attracts so many domestic tourists? We don‘t have impressive high mountains – but the small ones we have are equally beautiful and challenging to hike (Adula and Basodino for example). The weather is very warm (yes, like in Italy) and the vegetation is a bit Mediterranean too. We have lots of palm trees, as well as the more Swiss-like pine-tree woods. There are several old fishing villages (Morcote, Gandria) and country markets and fairs all over. Our typical houses are mainly made of stone (Vallemaggia) and we grow grapes which make excellent red wines.

Ticino has also been the home of many famous artists and architects, both past (e.g. Domenico Fontana, who erected that nice big pillar in Saint Peter‘s square in Rome) and present (Mario Botta, who built the ugly new museum of modern art in San Francisco), so for such a rural area there is a very large and remarkable cultural patrimony to be visited. Many towns and villages have beautifully decorated houses and old arcades which play host to daily markets (Locarno, Ascona). Some towns have beautiful medieval castles, too, like Bellinzona, our tiny capital city.

There are also lots of rivers which often break up into natural pools, and one of our favourite past-times is to go swimming there. We have a few ski-resorts, but nothing of the mundane kind and entertainment and nightlife aren’t exactly exciting if you exclude the odd jazz or film festival. There’s a feeling of familiarity and simplicity all over and among the people that I would not swap for anywhere else in my country or the world.

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Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli (St. Maria of the Angels Church, c.1490) stands where the chic Via Nassa meets Riva Via Vela, an outwardly-nondescript medieval church that has occupied this prime location facing Lago di Lugano for over 500 years. Do not let the…Read More

Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli (St. Maria of the Angels Church, c.1490) stands where the chic Via Nassa meets Riva Via Vela, an outwardly-nondescript medieval church that has occupied this prime location facing Lago di Lugano for over 500 years.

Do not let the somewhat plain exterior fool you; while it is simple stone on the outside; inside, it's dynamic. The church was built in the 15th century, with the frescoes completed around 1530 by a Lombard painter named Bernardino Luini. Relatively little about the painter's life is known. Although Luini was thought to have been a student of Leonardo da Vinci, no direct evidence of such a relationship has been found. Whether or not he was a student of da Vinci, Luini was clearly very influenced by him, as seen in his use of bright, warm colors and his delicate female figures and their use of subtle gestures and clear emotion. In fact, because many of Luini's major works were in smaller towns, and since his work resembles da Vinci's, much of his work was attributed to da Vinci for many years. Extensive research has been able to identify Luini's work and establish him as a noteworthy contemporary of da Vinci's; he is sometimes called "the Raphael of Lombardy."

Luini originally came to Lugano on commission to paint a Last Supper for the Franciscan monestery that once was attached to the church. The monestary is long-gone; its building was converted to a hotel in the 1800s. The hotel eventually closed and the building fell into disrepair; it is now being restored and converted into something different. Luini's Last Supper can still be seen hanging on the west wall of St. Maria's.

It is rather breathtaking to enter the church, and see the magnificent scene of the Crucifixtion (1529) that covers the entire wall which separates the nave and the choir. Indeed, this fresco - likely Luini's masterpiece - is one of the largest single frescos ever painted, and one of his last major works. Several smaller frescos can be seen throughout the church, included the repeated crest that looks like "yhs" in a sun motif, and the rendering of the Virgin Mary with baby Jesus. My guide was extremely well-versed in knowledge of the church and she had a lot of interesting information to share about each of the artworks.

Light inside the church is dim, to help preserve the paintings, so it is ideal to go on a bright day, when light from the clerestory windows will give you the best views. If the light is not enough, however, there is a switch on the left wall near the entrance that will turn on the lights on a short timer so that you can study the frescos a bit better.

The east side of the church includes chapels dedicated to the Virgin Mary and to St. Francis of Assisi.

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For more information: Lugano Turismo, Lugano Turismo, Tel. +41 (0) 91 913 32 32 (www.lugano-tourism.ch).

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We decided on a mega-tour today and I drew up an ambitious plan to visit 3 places: Mt. San Salvatore, Swiss Miniature Park at Melide, and the beautiful village of Morcote. It was a sunny day today unlike yesterday, and so we got a complimentary…Read More

We decided on a mega-tour today and I drew up an ambitious plan to visit 3 places: Mt. San Salvatore, Swiss Miniature Park at Melide, and the beautiful village of Morcote. It was a sunny day today unlike yesterday, and so we got a complimentary boat ride from the hotel, right up to Lugano Paradiso. From Paradiso pier, we walked around 10 mins to reach the funicular stop. Mt. San Salvatore is 912m high, and offers superb views of the lakes below and magnificent range of Swiss and Savoy Alps. There is a church at the top that has a terrace where one can climb up and get stunning panoramic views.

We could see at least two other smaller lakes from the top, apart from Lake Lugano. We observed that there was a walking path that leads to Corona (Ciona) and then Morcote, in 3 hours. If the kids weren’t with us we might have perhaps ventured doing the hike. We had a quick lunch at the self-service restaurant, and the kids later amused themselves at the nearby games park. Getting back to Paradiso, we decided to take the train to Swiss Miniature in Melide. This is a park that has models of all monuments and landmarks of Switzerland with Swiss Alps, lakes, castles, farms, cathedrals, etc. There are small trains, funiculars, and toy cars whizzing automatically on the roads and tracks lay out. It is a virtual "toyland" for children, since they can see all of Switzerland in miniature form. One can see the rotating cable car, rising up to Mount Titlis in miniature form, the funicular chugging up to Jungfraujoch or the toy sailing boats on Lake Zurich. We spent a whole lot of time over here, and later the children tried their hand at the various games available. As a result of all this, we missed the next boat connection to Morcote and had to forego that trip. I was most disappointed, as I had read so much about this charming village from the travel brochures and really wanted to see the quaint place. Anyways the children were thrilled at spending so much time at the Miniature Park, so it was well worth it.

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We took a bus from Lugano Central to the fishing village of Gandria. It is the tiniest village I have ever seen—the only walking path in the village takes all of 15 minutes to traverse and runs in between tiny houses and restaurants piled next…Read More

We took a bus from Lugano Central to the fishing village of Gandria. It is the tiniest village I have ever seen—the only walking path in the village takes all of 15 minutes to traverse and runs in between tiny houses and restaurants piled next to each other and bordering the lake! The village is famous for its beautiful location next to the lake, and the superb food offered by the restaurants dotting the lake. We checked out all the restaurants and chose one of them with a good lake view. We were told that one could get amazing fish delicacies at Gandria and the restaurant lived up to that reputation. I had an excellent grilled sea fish with saffron sauce and baked vegetables.

Gandria can be reached by foot from Lugano in 2 hours through a path along the lake called the ‘olive path’ between Gandria and Castagnola, leading along fields of olive trees and offers a splendid view of the Lake of Lugano. We tried walking along the narrow ‘Olive path’ that runs through the villages lining the lakes. We returned after a while to the pier at Gandria and went back to Lugano by boat. The lake looked so pretty—a spectacular hue of blue with ducks and swans swimming in the waters.

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Walking in Lugano is an experience of sites, sounds and wonderful aromas. I use the term "walking" but actually we were "lost" trying to find a money exchange as we needed to have a few Swiss Francs on the train ride back to Zurich.…Read More

Walking in Lugano is an experience of sites, sounds and wonderful aromas. I use the term "walking" but actually we were "lost" trying to find a money exchange as we needed to have a few Swiss Francs on the train ride back to Zurich. The streets meandered through beautiful piazzas, past sidewalk cafes, shops and specialty stores, candy shops, and open air food markets. No one in Lugano appeared to be in a hurry. It was mid-day on a weekday and there were so many people shopping, enjoying coffee and people watching. We enjoyed the beautiful architecture and unique old buildings. In the area we were in, there were not many streets that allowed vehicles, everyone was on foot. No—we never found the money exchange.

Later, after dinner and a walk on the promenade along Lake Lugano, we were making our way back up the hill to our hotel, when we heard the most marvelous music. Since we didn’t have any particular place to go, we following the sounds and found ourselves in a large open-air square, surrounded by buildings which made the echo of the music sound wonderful. An American group was presenting a free concert of big band music. We pulled up a few chairs and enjoyed the entertainment- even 'stole' a dance in the piazza as we were leaving.

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After soaking up sun, scenery, silence and solitude for two days at our little lakeside hideway we felt the need for a little action. Grabbing our backpacks and the camera we clambered up the scenic Via Castagnola to the bus stop. We can navigate the…Read More

After soaking up sun, scenery, silence and solitude for two days at our little lakeside hideway we felt the need for a little action. Grabbing our backpacks and the camera we clambered up the scenic Via Castagnola to the bus stop. We can navigate the fastest computer but it takes a friendly native to show us the combination to the bus ticket machine. Ah! So simple when one knows the combination.

We needed to exchange money and our helpful blonde lady who spoke English informed us where we wanted to go was exactly where she was going.

"The Town Center, The Altstadt (Old City)is where it is at," she said. "Follow me."

She jumped off the bus on Via Pretorio and scurried south to the Piazza Dante and we almost lost her as we scampered around the corner from the San Antonio Chapel.

Cross the Piazza Dante, duck down the alley way on the left, Via Pelissa, go past the vegetable stands, bread market, and left at a well known jewelry store and here is the bank on the south corner of the Piazza della Reforma, home of the 1844 Town Hall, Municipo. From the wide Piazza we admired the Hall and the expanse of outdoor cafes with hovering buildings cascading with jumbles of bright geraniums. Even on the slate brick balconies of the bank pink, red and purple filled hanging window boxes splashed the walls.

Backtracking after a quick trip around the Piazza, we with trusty city map in hand, re-entered the alley Via Pelissa, home of the fresh veggie and produce market along with an open air bakery. Here we found the hungry noon time stampede. In front of the freshmeat markets vendors had set up grills for preparing bratwurst, pizza by the slice, hot dogs and behind them in the store coolers a varied display of cold green and pasta salad. You could even purchase an entree for dinner complete with side dish and then pop across the alley and buy your crusty bread and along a few feet more the wonderful strawberries for your dessert. We snagged a bratwurst and drooled over the massive display of bright and fresh produce mounded in crates for our inspection. What a smell along with the smoking grills and fresh baked bread! To add to these savory smells, on the nearby Piazza Dante a busy vendor passed hot roasted chestnuts to eager patrons.

We quickly recrossed Piazza Riforma taking Via Canova till we spied the Chapel San Rocco on the Piazza Maghetti. Known for its goulish art of saints being shot with arrows, the somewhat dark and dank church was under renovation with artists with tiny brushes in hand hung on the walls carefully applying color.

A quick turn to the east on Via G. B. Pioda amd we are on the Riva or lakeside drive. Here we stolled to the Piazza A. Mansoni a bustling plaza with bus stops, spraying fountains and man sized chess games played in the open. We chatted with the incoming tourists, took photos while they posed in front of the fountain and maintained a descreet distance from the chess competition.

Our last stop, Mondo's, Lugano's answer to the eveything store but they do it one better by not only having every article of clothing or any other article you wanted to buy, they have a full grocery, wine store, pizzeria and lavish bakery in the basement. Time for a quick beer at the Ristorante Commercianti and tour of the lavish villas along the Via San Lorenzo leading to cathedral of the same name.. The Piazzi Riforma holds on Tuesday and Friday a local market from 7-12. For those who like guided tours, in front of the Church St Maria degli Angioli every Monday morning April through October there is a FREE guided tour starting at 9:30 am.

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