Let's face it, finding a suitable holiday destination is a bit of a challenge at the moment. For all the reasons we're bombarded with, many of our most popular destinations are off the 'must do' list for now. On the flip-side, other locations, particularly domestic, are…Read More

Let's face it, finding a suitable holiday destination is a bit of a challenge at the moment. For all the reasons we're bombarded with, many of our most popular destinations are off the 'must do' list for now.

On the flip-side, other locations, particularly domestic, are coming back into vogue. Some of our near international neighbours are also experiencing something of a renaissance, particularly New Caledonia, where visitors are rediscovering the exotic blend of French and Melanesian cultures in the idyllic South Pacific setting.

Always a popular cruise destination, P&O's brand new Pacific Princess recently visited the capital, Noumea, on its maiden voyage. Noumea is also well served by air through the Tontouta International Airport and the smaller domestic airport of Magenta.

The national carrier, Air Caledonia International (AirCalin), flies to Noumea daily and is adding a sparkling new 271-seat Airbus A330 to its fleet in January.

The last time I was in Noumea, I was still in short pants. In fact the French colonial outpost was my first true overseas experience as I trundled along behind my parents on our P&O cruise. The fact that the brazenly opulent Pacific Princess was in dock on her maiden voyage was just another dose of nostalgia.

New Caledonia's maritime tradition goes way back to our beloved Captain James Cook who discovered and named the island during his very busy second voyage in 1774. Apparently the mountainous, heavily forested 16,000 sq km main island reminded him of the islands off the stormy Scottish coast. (Caledonia was the Roman name for Scotland) Or maybe he was just plain homesick?

From the beginning of the 19th century there was some to-ing and fro-ing with the British and French until Napoleon III made his intentions clear in 1853. A good call as it turned out, because the island was rich in minerals, particularly nickel, and a factor that ensured a lively economy for the little Territoire d'Outre-Mer.

During WWII New Caledonia became the USA's pacific base for the campaign against the Japanese. That done, the stunned locals were well-and-truly shaken out of any dozy South Pacific nonchalance and dropped firmly in the hurly-burly of the real world. Local political activity developed, not always to the delight of the French, and tourism gradually became an increasingly significant source of revenue. Around 100,000 visitors now visit New Caledonia annually.

In the last few years, New Caledonia has become less reliant on tourist arrivals from France and more regionally focussed, whilst stubbornly retaining its quaint French colonial heritage. This inflexible colonial allegiance has preserved New Caledonia's character, creating a distinctive cultural outpost in the midst of Anglophilic Anzac territory.

New Caledonia's tourism catch-phrase; "France's best kept secret", will soon become redundant if the strength of their current marketing is anything to go by. Australian television audiences are seeing the first ever commercials for the islands, promoting enticingly priced packages that stand competitively against rivals such as Fiji, Vanuatu and New Zealand.

As soon as you set foot in Noumea you know you're overseas. You're instantly surrounded by funny little French cars all on the wrong side of the road. Everyone you talk to has to think twice before answering. Some just shrug their shoulders and smile, clearly oblivious to your request. I've been to France, so I dare not burden any of these friendly faces with my high school French, although you're much more likely to find someone who admits to speaking a little English than in Paris's Gare du Nord.

Downtown Noumea is barely recognisable from the little I remember all those years ago. Smart shopping arcades, a rejuvenated Coconut Place (park) in the central shopping district and modern, freshly painted buildings. Even with the huge cruise ship in port, the town centre was delightfully unhurried. Australian visitors will be tempted to draw comparisons with Cairns, Townsville or the Gold Coast, but the lack of brash, gawdy accoutrements (and all that brings) will continually set Noumea apart.

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I'll save your time and get straight to the point. If you want value for money, feeling welcomed by locals and hotel/service staff, and a real tropical paradise feel from your holiday, DO NOT go to New Caledonia. Now the details: We arrived on October…Read More

I'll save your time and get straight to the point. If you want value for money, feeling welcomed by locals and hotel/service staff, and a real tropical paradise feel from your holiday, DO NOT go to New Caledonia.

Now the details:

We arrived on October 13th and stayed 1 week at Le Meridien, arguably the best and most expensive hotel in Noumea. The hotel itself, our room, huge breakfast (included in the price) and hotel staff - were all very nice, I'm trying to be fair here. This is where the good stuff about the holiday ends, sorry.

First of all, the whole week was really really bad weather. We had 1 sunny day, and while other holiday destinations offer you a number of other activities when the weather doesn't let you go to the beach or swim in the pool, there is literally NOTHING to do in Noumea. The town is dirty, has a "poor Southern France" feel about it, with no real exotic tropical island atmosphere or attractions to look at.

The water was cold, even though the travel websites told us that we should expect 26 degrees Celcius. I think it was more like 17 all the time - as it was really really cold and swimming was virtually impossible.

Locals are not particularly friendly or unfriendly, but the white French population of the island will literally hate your guts if you speak English or simply - not in French to them. I'm sure lots of people will try and "boooo!" me here, and there are exceptions, but overall they do not like non-French people here and you'll just have to deal with this fact whether you like it or not.

It will be hard to get directions, prices in small local shops will be lifted x10 times from their normal "French" prices (I personally wanted to buy a bottle of a soft drink for 130 Pacific Francs (the price tag was on the shelf), and the guy told me that the actual price is 1300 Pacific Francs. I kid you not.).

It is also worth mentioning that everything in New Caledonia is ridiculously expensive. I know that all holiday destinations and tourist places have their prices lifted up, but trust me - New Caledonia stands out. When you start paying $30 for a burger and chips, and $80 per person for a half-decent dinner, you'll know what I mean.

The only nice experience in our crazy rainy boring week in Noumea was that 1 sunny day when we went on a day trip to Amedee Island (the one with the lighthouse on it - my spelling of a French name might be off a bit), and that was a total bang for the buck - the buffet lunch, national dancing, the boat, the island itself, magnificent.

So, sorry if I rained on your parade, but I hope I just saved you 7 days of your precious time and a couple thousands of dollars that are better spent elsewhere, where you feel welcome, can get unique local experiences, cheap nice food, friendly people, and a _proper_ tropical holiday.

Peace.   Close

Magical... a short flight from Noumea domestic airport - Magenta. The view from the air is breathtaking. The beaches are white sandy. Oro Bay is excellent for kayaking, pedal boats and windsurfing. Other activities include nature walks, cycling tours, fishing and 4WD tours. Most resorts are able to…Read More

Magical... a short flight from Noumea domestic airport - Magenta. The view from the air is breathtaking.

The beaches are white sandy. Oro Bay is excellent for kayaking, pedal boats and windsurfing.

Other activities include nature walks, cycling tours, fishing and 4WD tours.

Most resorts are able to organise day trips to neighbouring islands and a picnic!!

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