This is Michigan’s most famous vacation spot, a small island with an eight-mile perimeter that is slightly out of step with the rest of the world. It’s steeped in history, with a touch of mystery, privilege, Victorian graciousness, natural beauty, and more than a little…Read More

This is Michigan’s most famous vacation spot, a small island with an eight-mile perimeter that is slightly out of step with the rest of the world. It’s steeped in history, with a touch of mystery, privilege, Victorian graciousness, natural beauty, and more than a little tourist-luring tackiness, and each of those aspects has its own sizable army of defenders.

Mackinac sits in Lake Huron, a few miles east of the Straits of Mackinac and within view of the Mackinac Bridge that connects Michigan’s two peninsulas. Ferry service is the only route to the Island, and ships leave regularly from both St. Ignace on the UP side and Mackinaw City on the other side of the bridge. Three companies (Arnold, Star Line, and Shepler’s) have competed for years. ‘Fastest to the Island!’ is the claim of one; I’m not sure why anyone would count it a virtue to minimize a 20-minute ride on the Great Lakes: for me, the trip is always part of the experience. Count on about $25 for a roundtrip ticket; coupons or family tickets might reduce this a little. It cost the five of us $86 to get to Mackinac and back.

The island itself is a fairly steep, rocky place. A bluff runs around the island’s edges, just a short distance inside the shoreline. That gap provides the most flat land at the southern end, where the town and docks lie on a small bay. To head inland, you’ll have to walk uphill, and steep hills at that: Fort Mackinac sits atop the bluff, above the harbor and well above your head.

The Fort is one of many things worth your time while you’re here. It was the coolest place I’d ever been when I was eight; decades later, it’s still up there on my list. Together with the wooden Fort Michilimackinac on the mainland, it served as one of several outposts built by the European powers to protect and oversee the fur trade, and bring some sense of order to the frontier. During the War of 1812, the American garrison was surrounded, surprised, and surrendered without a shot after a British landing and stealthy approach from the island’s northwest corner. The view from the fort is tremendous, and spending a few hours here among the period-costumed rangers is always worth it.

The Fort was decommissioned in the late 19th century, as first the fur trade and then the threat from the British faded, making a garrison unnecessary. The combination of the existing facility, government ownership, growing tourism trade, scenic beauty—and, oh yes, political influence by one of Michigan’s senators—made the Island the nation’s second national park in 1875 (I only learned this on my most recent visit). 20 years later, it became Michigan’s first state park, when the national government transferred its ownership to the state, with the requirement that those lands never become private property.

Much of the land is still part of Mackinac Island State Park, but there is significant private ownership. You’ll see private homes along some of the bluffs, and a smaller number out around the island’s edges. The ‘downtown’ is near the south end, filled with docks, hotels, t-shirt shops, restaurants, and fudge shops. My guess is that if you asked most Michiganders what comes to mind first about Mackinac, you’d hear ‘fudge’ and ‘no cars’ most frequently.

That’s right: no cars. In the late 19th century, the city fathers accepted the recommendation from the carriage trade that automobiles be banned from the island (they frightened the horses). Even today, only emergency vehicles are allowed to operate on the Island. That foresighted decision has given Mackinac a unique identity, and ensured a livelihood for both bike renters and carriage men.

Carriages are everywhere, all run by Mackinac Island Carriage Tours, the company formed 60 years ago by the carriage men. The standard tour lasts just under two hours, and takes you to all the island’s highlights, with stops at some of them. A ride in the buggy is definitely preferable to hiking up the hill to the center of the island, and should be a part of any visit.

Tours all stop at Arch Rock, a natural arch near on the eastern bluff with a terrific view out over the Lakes. There’s also a monument to French explorer Joliet, the first European to pass through the Straits, beginning the four centuries of European presence in the Great Lakes. Skull Cave is another natural highlight, named for a British solider who spent the night on the run from a band of native Americans, only to find the remains of a former denizen.

The grand hotels all remain from the Island’s initial heyday. Foremost among them is the Grand Hotel, featuring the longest front porch in America, and dominating the southwestern bluff. They have a gold mine here and they know it: rates start at $235 per person per night (including breakfast and dinner). But the service and the atmosphere may be worth it, although I have yet to see for myself. Other lodging options include the Chippewa and Iroquois Hotels, of the same vintage but not quite the same stratospheric price range. There’s also about a dozen B&Bs on the island, a few smaller hotels, and the Mission Point Resort.

Even if you’re just looking to sightsee and move on, you could easily spend two full days here. Or you could make it the sole destination for a vacation, and spend the days hiking the island, riding bikes, munching on fudge, watching the sun go down at any of the waterfront establishments, and then spending the night if you can afford it; it’s a pleasure I have yet to experience. Word is that the Island is a different place after the last ferry leaves. And remember: it’s ‘mac-in-aw’, not ‘mac-in-ack’.   Close

Mackinac Island is surprisingly small in some ways; surprisingly large in others. The absence of cars immediately makes it a bigger place, leaving the end away from the boat docks accessible only the slower modes of foot, bike or carriage. Any visit to the Island…Read More

Mackinac Island is surprisingly small in some ways; surprisingly large in others. The absence of cars immediately makes it a bigger place, leaving the end away from the boat docks accessible only the slower modes of foot, bike or carriage. Any visit to the Island ought to include time away from the fudge factories and t-shirt shops, and the best way to do it is on bicycle.

We arrived at the Arnold Line docks and immediately headed for bike rental shops. We scoured our tickets, the pamphlet racks, and tour guides for discount coupons, but couldn’t find any. There are plenty of vendors with bikes; as in any tourist area, you’ll pay a premium if you rent from the first one you meet on Main Street.

Because it was a warm day, and a circuit of the island is always popular, we planned to rent bikes first before exploring more of the island on foot. We wandered a few blocks counterclockwise around the island, looking at rate boards and finally stopping at Mackinac Wheels just past the Island House. Despite my better judgment, the five of us left on four bikes, with my younger kids determined to ride a two-seater.

In addition to our bicycle built for two, we had pretty basic Schwinns (three gears or so), which is largely what you’ll find on the island. Anything with more gears rents for more, but if you’re simply circumnavigating the island, basic will do just fine. (Those who head inland and up the steep central hill will probably want to pay the extra).

We’d caught one of the earliest ferries to enjoy the morning before the crowds arrived, and were pedaling off by 8:30. It proved to be a warm day on the island, hitting 95 degrees by mid-afternoon: one of the hottest days I’ve ever experienced in upper Michigan. Cycling early proved to be a good decision in several ways, as we beat the heat and had only modest company on the road. We continued counterclockwise on M-185, the state’s only highway that does not allow cars. Appropriately enough, it’s certainly the only highway marked with hand-carved, wooden mile markers.

It doesn’t take long to get out of ‘town’: another quarter-mile, and we had Lake Huron on our right, and the pricey Mission Point Resort on our left. The ‘highway’ (now appropriately named Lakeshore Road) then swings around to the north, running for two miles out to Point St. Clair. This is the most deserted and the prettiest part of the trip, with the bluff on your right and the lake across the road. There are at least half a dozen picnic tables along this stretch, and plenty of places to pull off, wade in the water, and skip stones into the distance.

After mile 3, the island’s edge runs northeast for a mile before curving straight south at Point Aux Pins. St. Ignace and the UP shoreline come into view along this stretch. We pulled off and watched the ferries running both ways, including the Star Line boats with their characteristic roostertails of water arcing behind.

After Point Aux Pins, you head nearly due south, with great views out across the Straits of Mackinac and of the Mackinac Bridge. I don’t think there’s a prettier suspension bridge anywhere, and this is a beautiful and unique perspective. You pass British Landing, where the redcoats came ashore in 1812 and then marched south to surround Fort Mackinac, surprising the American garrison who were not yet aware that war had broken out. A similar American attempt in 1814 failed miserably, a contrast that really galled me as an eight year old.

The last three miles of the trail bring you back to the more populated part of Mackinac, past the small community of Stonecliff and several pretty parks. By mile 7, you’re back in ‘civilization’, and soon can see the Grand Hotel (whose prices are comparable to its elevation) above you on the bluff.

With less than a half-mile remaining on your return to mile 0, you reach Windermere Point, which marks the beginning of the small bay around which downtown and the docks are constructed. By now, you may need to dismount to reduce the chance of running someone down while trying to ride.

It takes a leisurely hour to ride around the island, and I’d make it a part of any trip here. My perfect day on Mackinac explores the shoreline by bike, the inland by carriage ride, and leaves time for visiting the fort and rewarding one’s self with an ample serving of fudge.   Close

Take I-75 north across "the bridge" and follow itabout 7 miles north to M-123. Take M-123 N-W to M-28 (about 33 miles). Take M-28 West for what seems like forever (it goes through the "Seney Stretch" - the world's straightest and most boring…Read More

Take I-75 north across "the bridge" and follow itabout 7 miles north to M-123. Take M-123 N-W to M-28 (about 33 miles). Take M-28 West for what seems like forever (it goes through the "Seney Stretch" - the world's straightest and most boring stretch of road known to mankind)about 82 miles later (no kidding) you will be in Munising. Keep driving through Christmas (no, this one's a town) and about 38 miles later you'll connect to US-41. Follow this North through Marquette, and on to Houghton, about 105 miles. If you've been doing the math this far, you should have travelled approximately 265 miles - you're now at the gateway to the Keweenaw Peninsula. Take the bridge across the canal/river and head north (you can't really get lost - it's an island since the canal was completed years ago!) Stop in the tourist office in Houghton and pick up a travel map. It shows most of the roads and some of the attractions. You can even get info on going to Isle Royale (that island off to the left of the keweenaw).

An alternate route to get to the Seney Stretch is to take US-2 West from St. Ignace. About 47 miles from St. Ignace is M-117. Take it north to M-28 (about 15 miles) and turn left onto M-28.

Either route works, the first takes you closest to Tahquanemon Falls, a beautiful waterfall pair vivid with natural beauty. The second takes you along the northern edge of Lake Michigan, complete with secluded beaches (except for US-2) and rivers. Both are worthy of the drive.

We were on a drive through the Keewenaw with a local map looking for something to do when we stumbled on an old mine. well, we knew where it was, but we hadn't planned to go there. Although we had trespassed to get…Read More

We were on a drive through the Keewenaw with a local map looking for something to do when we stumbled on an old mine. well, we knew where it was, but we hadn't planned to go there. Although we had trespassed to get some pictures (I DON'T recommend this - it's dangerous and illegal) many of the mines can be seen from the roads and a couple are open for tours.

A good local map may even show some ghost towns. If not, and you have a good memory (or GPS!) you can wander around on some side roads and possibly spot some old abandoned towns. We found one with a few remaining houses in it. The people left without taking any extras. Whatever fit in their wagons was all they took. It really is like stepping back in time. Be advised that they don't look like the western ones you see on TV. these are not that glamorous, but they offer a glimpse of what the miners of the 1800's lived in. It's been about 13 years (as of this writing) since I have visited the ghost town we were in, so it may have deteriorated beyond recognition. But, according to our map, the peninsula is scattered with them.

The journey started at the Pellston airport. This has to be one of the nicest airports I have ever been in! The interior is done in a log cabin style with a living room feel. There is a nice restaurant upstairs also.…Read More

The journey started at the Pellston airport. This has to be one of the nicest airports I have ever been in! The interior is done in a log cabin style with a living room feel. There is a nice restaurant upstairs also. We had a bus take us to the ferry in Mackinaw City, which took about 20 minutes. And the ferry ride also took about 20 minutes. Upon arriving on the island, your nose makes you immediately aware of the alternative means of transportation - HORSES are everywhere! You can rent a bike or sign up for a horse-drawn carriage ride for a tour of the island. I opted for the carriage ride, which took us around the island and the park. This was the best way to see everything. The ride was very nice, with the driver giving a narration of all the sights, and there were three stops on the trip.    Close

Tahquamenon Falls is located in Hiawatha National Forest..... Give me of your bark, O Birch-tree! Of your yellow bark, O Birch-tree! Growing by the rushing river, Tall and stately in the valley I a light canoe will build me, Build a swift Cheemaun for sailing, ...........…Read More

Tahquamenon Falls is located in Hiawatha National Forest.....

Give me of your bark, O Birch-tree!
Of your yellow bark, O Birch-tree!
Growing by the rushing river,
Tall and stately in the valley
I a light canoe will build me,
Build a swift Cheemaun for sailing,
...........
Thus aloud cried Hiawatha
In the solitary forest,
By the rushing Taquamenaw,
When the birds were singing gayly,
In the Moon of Leaves were singing,
And the sun, from sleep awaking,
Started up and said, "Behold me
Gheezis, the great Sun, behold me."

Song of Hiawatha, W.W. Longfellow

If you like to shop, you'll also enjoy all the quaint little shops on the island. Fudge is a specialty on the island and there are at least 4 or 5 different places to buy fudge. The t shirts and jewelry and sweatshirts…Read More

If you like to shop, you'll also enjoy all the quaint little shops on the island. Fudge is a specialty on the island and there are at least 4 or 5 different places to buy fudge. The t shirts and jewelry and sweatshirts are really nice and it' just overall a great shopping destination.   Close

The Grand Hotel is really just that. Check out their website for more information (www.grandhotel.com) At the time we went to the island, they charged $10 per person just to tour the premises. I think I have to say now that I'm sorry we…Read More

The Grand Hotel is really just that. Check out their website for more information (www.grandhotel.com) At the time we went to the island, they charged $10 per person just to tour the premises. I think I have to say now that I'm sorry we were too frugal to pay that price. I would like to have had more to write in this section. My plan is to later stay at the Grand Hotel on one of our annual trips to Mich from California. So..stay tuned.. I do know that I checked out their prices before we went and I believe it would have been at least $300 per night. It would have included a 7 course gourmet meal however. I also read that their cuisine is rated as in the top 5 in the world to eat at. So..as I said, I do a plan to stay there sometime.   Close

There really isn't a place to stay there. There are people who live on the island but there aren't really any hotels to stay in. It is more of a place you stay at during the day. …Read More

There really isn't a place to stay there. There are people who live on the island but there aren't really any hotels to stay in. It is more of a place you stay at during the day.    Close

The island's circumference is a road on which people bike (no cars allowed as stated earlier). To travel the whole distance I'd say it would take a couple hours... maybe longer, but you have a constant view of the lake.…Read More

The island's circumference is a road on which people bike (no cars allowed as stated earlier). To travel the whole distance I'd say it would take a couple hours... maybe longer, but you have a constant view of the lake.   Close