Porfirio Santiago is at his loom, diligently weaving a massive 2 x 3 meter rug with traditional designs, from memory, with respresentations of Zapotec diamonds, rainfall, maize, and mountains…just as his father Tomás, grandfather Ildefonso, and great grandfather before him. Wife Gloria is carding a…Read More

Porfirio Santiago is at his loom, diligently weaving a massive 2 x 3 meter rug with traditional designs, from memory, with respresentations of Zapotec diamonds, rainfall, maize, and mountains…just as his father Tomás, grandfather Ildefonso, and great grandfather before him. Wife Gloria is carding a mix of white and caramel colored raw wool. Behind them, hanging over the black wrought iron banister overlooking the sunny open courtyard, are drying batches of spun wool in tones of green, brown, red, and blue, byproducts of the use of natural dyes from the añil or indigo plant, seed pods, mosses, pecan, pomegranate zest, and of course the cochineal bug.

Such ritual in Teotitlán del Valle, an ancient tribal town about a half hour’s drive from Oaxaca, has been played out continuously on a daily basis since about 1535, when Dominican bishop Juan López Dezárate arrived in the village and introduced borregos (caprine sheeplike animals yielding wool) and the first loom, shipped from Spain across the Atlantic. The use of natural dyes and weaving predate the conquest, but it was the European invasion which jump-started a cottage industry producing serapes, blankets, and tapetes (rugs).

Over generations the village grew, and began specializing in solely rugs, initially used as trade and sale items within a commercial network of towns in other parts of the state, and to a lesser extent other regions of the country. With the completion of the pan-American highway connecting Oaxaca with Mexico City in the late 1940s, the market opened up. By the 1950s air travel had begun to facilitate greater export as well as a tourist industry which quickly took notice of a broad range of handcrafted items from foreign lands.

Artesanias Casa Santiago is comprised of a single extended family whose main production facility, showroom, and homestead has been on the town’s main street since 1966. Then Porfirio occupied most of his working hours as a campesino in the fields, with rug production as a sideline. Over the decades he began spending fewer days working the land and more producing tapetes of both traditional Zapotec designs, and more recently based upon consumer demand, of modern patterns, reproducing themes from the masters of modern art and accepting custom orders such as the recent request for a wall hanging promoting Pentax cameras.

Illustrative of the depth of this family tradition, five of Porfirio’s six siblings and their families are weavers, the other a preschool teacher. On Gloria’s side, while her siblings are members of a large well-known musical band which plays at municipal fiestas, weddings, quince años, and other rites of passage, they too are trade artisans, although more on a part-time basis. All of Porfirio and Gloria’s children work in the industry, as do their spouses. Three of four sons and their wives live on premises and work at all phases of production, with the fourth having his own taller just up the street. One son, Omar, is an architect, but is nevertheless an integral contributor to all aspects of the family business. One daughter and her husband work at the main facility, another is employed at her in-laws’ workshop and restaurant a couple of blocks away, and the last and her husband have their own home and rug business. Each child completed high school, deciding to thereafter keep the family tradition alive to the extent possible. As has been repeating for generations, the grandchildren, now 17 in number, while watching their parents and grandparents from infancy, begin learning in earnest at about 10 years of age, and by roughly 20 are proficient at all aspects of the operation. In terms of the division of labor, years ago women tended to dye, card, and spin, while the men were the weavers. Nowadays, at least in this family, each is fully capable of performing all tasks, although it’s exclusively men who work the largest looms requiring the greater strength and stamina.

Another family convention has been the performing of important administrative duties for the town without monetary compensation, an aspect of voluntary community labor known as tequio. In 1931, Porfirio’s grandfather was mayor of the village, and more recently between 1996 and 1998, Porfirio himself was el presidente municipal. By then the job had become a 3-year unpaid post, nevertheless requiring a full-time commitment, necessitating doing the farming, raising family, and maintaining a rug business in the early morning hours or after dark. Yet the pride and sense of responsibility in serving one’s community took priority over concerns about being able to get all the work done in 24 hours that had to be completed. Even today, Porfirio on a seasonal basis splits his time between making and selling woolen products, and working the fields to supply the family with corn for making tortillas and tamales.

Despite being one of the most personable families one could ever hope to happen upon in the Valley of Oaxaca, Don Porfirio et. al. don’t get the large tour buses stopping by their shop for exhibitions. Perhaps it’s the personalities of the family members which clearly doesn’t lend to the formality of onlookers seated in a gallery for a demonstration, followed by a hard sell. María Luísa and husband Jose Luís, Tomás, Hubo, and the rest of the family on hand seem to have learned from their parents to be more relaxed and engaging within a congenial informal setting. They’ll take you to see whatever galvanized metal, plastic, or clay pots happen to be in use for dyeing, and bring over a simple cardboard box to show you a half dozen or so natural substances used for coloring the wool. If Gloria isn’t available to card and spin, perhaps a daughter-in-law will shyly say that she’ll do it, smiling as she admits she’s not as good at is as her suegra. It’s a more real and honest attempt to demonstrate the way things are actually done in the Santiago family, not at all contrived, and absent any pretension whatsoever. It’s what drew me and my wife to Casa Santiago in 1993, for the purchase of our first tapete which even today continues to enhance our living room floor. It draws us back time and again for a visit, often with a spur-of-the-moment offer of a little mezcal with a botana, either alone, with friends and family visiting from Canada and the US, or with touring clients.

While Casa Santiago has over time succeeded in adapting to changing domestic and international trends in terms of color tones and combinations, designs, and diversity of product (now also offering handbags, wall hangings, pillow covers, and more), it’s the longstanding, proud Zapotec custom of producing tightly woven, high quality traditional rugs which will live on through Porfirio, Gloria, and their lineage.

Artensanias Casa Santiago, Av. Juarez 70, Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca 70420. Tel: (951) 524-4154; (951) 524-4183. Web: http://www.artesaniascasasantiago.com.   Close

For anyone who was ever looking for a quick and inexpensive scuba diving trip from Texas has been to Cozumel. And anyone who has ever been to Cozumel once, has been back time and time again. Better than drugs, it is addictive. The people are…Read More

For anyone who was ever looking for a quick and inexpensive scuba diving trip from Texas has been to Cozumel. And anyone who has ever been to Cozumel once, has been back time and time again. Better than drugs, it is addictive. The people are wonderful. The dive locations are diverse, and the dive operators can accommodate everyone from the first time diver to the most advanced divers. I don’t know of any scuba diver who has ever been disappointed by spending 3-4 days in Cozumel, Mexico (and few who don’t dive have been disappointed either). But Cozumel is not just about scuba diving. There are many wonderful things to see, taste, small and experience in this wonderful little jewel off of the coast of Cancun.

Scuba. Yes, the French man himself, Jacques-Yves Cousteau, put this island on the map in the 1960s. Since the time of his first expose’ of this barrier reef the scuba divers, tourists, and now the cruise ships all have found a dock in this Mexican oasis. I have scuba dived in Australia, Hawaii, Jamaica, Belize, Gulf of Mexico, Grand Cayman Islands, and Bali, and my favorite place in the world to scuba is still Cozumel. The reefs are protected and have a great deal to offer to the drift diver. You can dive the honey-combs, and you can get your fill of night diving here as well. There are sheer underwater cliffs that sink deep into the deep blue abyss, where you will not find a deeper, darker, more beautiful color under heaven or earth. You can find shallow (60’ deep) reefs teaming with the color of tropical life, or you can dive the depths with the largest Jewfish (grouper family) that you may ever see in the open water. I don’t know what else I can say, except—if you have not been diving in Cozumel, you are missing out on one of the top dive locations in the world.

Diving in Cozumel.

The basics of diving in Cozumel are pretty simple. The first rule is, if you are not certified, get certified before you go. Don’t settle for a "Resort Certification". These are dangerous, and have very little to do with real scuba training. Once you get certified and get to the island, you have some choices to make. Fast Boats or Slow Boats. Fast boats are good if you want to get to the back of the island or the southern tip, and get back in before noon. The slow boats are good if you like to talk to other divers and enjoy a slow, peaceful ride back to the dock. Everyone is different in this respect, but if you get sea-sick on the water, choose the slow boat route. It is much easier on the stomach. The next question is—do I take my own gear? Most divers will say yes here, but I can tell you that I have been to Cozumel many times, taken my own gear, and rented gear, and the difference is minimal. I do recommend that you take your own mouth piece, mask (of course), snorkel, weight belt, fins, booties, and shorty. No need for a knife, because you probably won’t be able to take it with you. And don’t forget your computer, though this will be more for your own enjoyment, as the dives are carefully monitored by the local dive master for maximum safety and enjoyment. I don’t take my own regulators any longer when I go to Cozumel. I use the local gear, but I do take a "fix it kit" filled with "O" rings, fasteners, mask fog, and such. Many of the tanks have old "O" rings, and the air leaks out when you dive.

Dive Shops. There are a number of dive shops on the island, and each have something different to offer, but I like diving with the big shops. They have more resources, more money, and are very experienced. My favorite dive shop is Dive Paradise. DP is owned by a little dried up lady named "Apple" who has lived on Cozumel for many years. She is a fixture, as is her company. DP is mostly large (slow) boats, but the experience is memorable (unlike flying, this is a good thing with scuba diving—you want more to remember about your trip—not less). Dive Paradise has a dive shop very close to town (maybe two), and will pick you up at your hotel dock close to 8am in the morning. I highly recommend using Apple’s crew.

Don’t just visit the square. The town on Cozumel island is called San Miguel. You will drive through the edge of town if you drive down the coast south from the airport. There are many wonderful restaurants, shops, and general tourist stuff to do. There is a very nice museum just north of down town on the coastal road that is worth a visit to learn of the island history, and how the Wrigley gum company put this place on the commercial shipping destination map before the scuba divers arrived. Start you journey near the square and you will find Carlos and Charlie’s bar (a must see if you like evening excitement), and a host of great restaurants. But don’t stop with the establishments near the square, or you will miss the local color and the real excitement. On the square you will find a beautiful old Catholic church—typically filled with children in white dresses or Sunday’s best. If you take a scooter ride beyond the immediate area, you will find additional places of worship. You will also begin to see how the locals live. Don’t be surprised to find that many of the residents of Cozumel actually live in very small huts, made from fresh cut trees and bound together with rope. Sounds like a 1970s TV episode of Gilligan’s Island? Yep. That is exactly what you will find. Dirt floors and all. There are many nice houses on the island as well, but when you are eating at the restaurants, negotiating on the street, or considering leaving a tip for the cleaning staff, you have more in your pocket than many people in Cozumel have to their name. If you got a good service, don’t assume that these individuals get paid good money to service your account (without your generous subsidy). In spite of the poverty that can be found in parts of Cozumel, I encourage you to get a scooter or open air rental car, and scoot around the island one day. Drive all over, but one piece of advice here—get directions to the two gas stations before you set out. You don’t want to run out of gas on the wrong side of the island.

Scooters. As I alluded to earlier, scooters are available to rent on the island, and are a source of great fun. Buy the insurance. You don’t want to be liable for a scooter in Mexico. Hit the road, and have a good time.

The lizard park. Chankanaab National Park is another mainstay fixture in Cozumel. This is also one of the big islands attractions for cruise ships, so don’t expect small crowds when you see cruise ships hitting the docks. Whether you are a strong swimmer or not, this beach side park is a wonderful place to wade into the water and snorkel. You can see some of the "re-created" Mayan ruins here (not the real thing), and get an up-close look at a dolphin show—just like SeaWorld. But the real attraction of this great park is an area where huge iguanas live. With winding trails, trees, sand, and fresh underground water, these medieval dragons are quite at home. The iguanas are typically pretty easy to find. Follow the trails on the ground, and don’t forget to look up in the trees—these guys like to climb. This is a very cool experience, but don’t leave your small children unattended… just kidding.

The back side of the island. One last thing to note about Cozumel. The east side of the island is covered with beach front property that has not been developed. If you want some private time away from people, this is an OK journey. The beaches are not real clean, and the waves are high. It is like a different place, but interesting nonetheless. This is a good place to ride your scooter after you have been all the way down the island to the southern tip. Return via the east side and you will get to see the areas of Cozumel covered with vegetation to collect fresh drinking water (it doesn’t come from the ocean—you know).

Say hello to Cozumel for me. I have not been there in a few years, and I miss it sorely.

The whole reason for Cinco De Mayo is the Mexican's military expulsion of the French Empire. Prior to that there was an interesting period when Mexico was ruled by the Emperor Maximillian and his lovely, doomed wife, Carlota. They did it very ala francais, too.…Read More

The whole reason for Cinco De Mayo is the Mexican's military expulsion of the French Empire. Prior to that there was an interesting period when Mexico was ruled by the Emperor Maximillian and his lovely, doomed wife, Carlota. They did it very ala francais, too. See their Sleeping Beauty coach in the museum in Guadalajara and you get the picture. You can still see the Gallic influence on architecture and, less happily, the legal system. And they never worried about whether they were seeing the Real Mexico. Until the Real Mexico came and killed them.

Why is this historic drivel important to you? One word: bakeries. The French may have lousy law and government and self-esteem issues, but they sure can cook. One legacy of their aborted Napoleonic rule is that even the small towns in Mexico have good French bread. The most common form is the bolillo, a split top, tapered, loaf the size of your palm and thick as your wrist. Chewy and substantial. Many places also have baguettes, rolls, or various forms of Frog Bread. A traveler's standby for generations.

But man doth not live by... etc. You also get a yin for some sweets now and then. So you're in luck. You probably didn't think you could get a yummily frosted, flaky-layered napoleon or sticky eclair in Latin America, but guess what? Those treats and many, many more await. There are dozens of bakeries in downtown TJ alone - and fresh-baked bolillos are available even in supermarkets like Gigante at Second and Revolucion or Calimax at Second and Constitution (in Gigante, a clear plastic spiral chutes hot rolls right down from the second floor bakery). But I've spotlighted three very special bakeries worth signalling out as worthy of attention.

Starting with San Ysidro. Located on Second (Juarez) right next to the Cathedral (another thing locals doth live by) San Ysidro is a Cadillac of bakeries. Sure they have bread, if you want to be pedestrian, but first you have to get by racks of lavish cakes, towering stacks of donuts, baked sandwiches, tortes, cookies, fruit-topped tropic isles of glucose, multi-layered muthahs of munch, gooey little landmines of greed, cream-filled carambas, meringue mambos, and visions of sugarplums.

As with all Mexican bakeries, you grab a huge tray and snappy tongs when you come in, then wander around heaping the tray before taking it up for bagging and charging. If you haven't run amok and embarrassed yourself lately, this would be a good time and place. My only problem is meeting the eyes of children who are confined to one lousy cookie while I snatch pineapple danish and cream filled horns. Hell with the little snots: there has to be some payoff for getting old and having to work, and being childish is as good a reward as any.

There's not much point in detailing this place. It's crammed full of incredible goodies and they don't cost much. Have at it. Oh, if that's not enough, the sidewalk window sells the chickens you see roasting on spits in front of you. Around four dollars with the trimmin's. Remember what Mom said, though: don't eat your dessert first.

Some would say that if you see one Mayan ruins area you don't need to see others, but we would disagree with that. We chose to do both Chichen Itza AND Tulum during our 11 day vacation to Cancun. We used Brandt’s 2x1 Entertainment Card…Read More

Some would say that if you see one Mayan ruins area you don't need to see others, but we would disagree with that. We chose to do both Chichen Itza AND Tulum during our 11 day vacation to Cancun. We used Brandt’s 2x1 Entertainment Card via www.cancunmex.com but just about every resort has some "deal" through a local tour operator. We Chichen did Itza with Brandt and were very happy with his service and the prices (approximately $60). If you do a timeshare presentation (which are available throughout Cancun) you may even be able to score free tickets for one or the other! That is how we did Tulum through Palace Resorts. The list price for the tour of Tulum was approximately $35 or $75 with the "add-on" of Xel-ha.

Chichen Itza

Our guided tour was provided by a very knowledgeable local gentleman, who was able to make the tour and information very interesting. I really enjoyed learning about the Mayan people and how intelligent they were so long ago. Their astronomical knowledge and predictions through the temples they built and the stories they told through the designs are incredible!

There is a lot to see here at the most well known of the Mayan ruins in Mexico. When we first arrived, we had to hike about 15 minutes to the entrance of the park like area. The first part of our tour included a walking tour of several areas of ruins. We learned how the Mayan people lived and how their community was structured to assure everyone in the village were provided for.

As you come through a small wooded area, you then see the wide open field like area where "the" attraction sits. Pyramid that everyone knows as Chichen Itza stands on a open grassy field. From a distance, it actually looks small. As you get closer and right up to the steps, looking up, the size is intimidating. You can climb the 91 steps to the top of the temple and look out over the area. It is a steep and exhausting climb but well worth it. David did it in two parts, with just a single rest break. I didn’t feel quite that adventurous, so I stayed on terra firma and took photos!

Coming down from the top, David said that it was a bit scary just because of how steep each step is. Many people (especially the women) could be seen scooting down on their fannies to avoid falling. By the way, they told us that in 2005, tourists will no longer be permitted to climb the temple due to the continued damage occurring. To our knowledge, they are still allowing folks to climb. Someone recently told me that was just an old wives’ tale that has been told for years, so who really knows.

You will also want to see the observatory and ball stadium. There is much to see around the area at Chichen Itza so go out and explore! While you are here, there are plenty of facilities for food, beverages and rest rooms. So make a day of it and enjoy!


Tulum

Tulum is known as "the other" Mayan ruins that visitors to Cancun often visit. It is in an area south of Cancun (about 90 minutes or so) and faces the ocean. While the ruins there have taken a beating over the years, they are wonderful examples of the times and worth the time and effort to see them. There is not quite as much to see or do here as at Chichen Itza, so you really can on planning just a couple of hours here.

When you arrive, there is a small tram like vehicle that will take you to the area where the ruins are. They are on a high cliff, above the ocean. It’s an easy walk among the various buildings and structures. All ruins are roped off, prohibiting climbing on them. Many are also restricted as to how close you can get to them, but there are a lot of ruins that you can get right up to.

There is a small beach here too, if you want to bring a bathing suit and layout or play in the water. There is a steep incline to walk down to the beach area but it looked like it could be easily navigated in decent shoes.

Many tour companies package this half-day tour with Xel-Ha (a great snorkel location), but unfortunately, ours was packaged with Xpu-Ha (the Palace Resort in a native jungle setting). It was a good day and we enjoyed our time at Xpu-Ha as well. With that being said, I would suggest that if you take this as a package, you do it with the Xel-Ha option.   Close

Paced not too fast or too slow, and appearing comfortably (yet deceptively) small, Taxco is a great place to spend a couple of days. Alternate your time between shopping, and exploring the myriad footpaths and roads, and enjoying some tasty, relaxing meals. Taxco is a…Read More

Paced not too fast or too slow, and appearing comfortably (yet deceptively) small, Taxco is a great place to spend a couple of days. Alternate your time between shopping, and exploring the myriad footpaths and roads, and enjoying some tasty, relaxing meals. Taxco is a bit unlike many of the other colonial highland towns, in that all the buildings are pretty well whitewashed with red clay tile roofs, giving the place a real Mediterranean seaside-town kind of vibe.

The main part of the town is at the middle level twisting across a hillside/valley, and the towns buildings are much like the barnacles found affixed along an ocean's water-level rocks, closely reflecting the crevices and protrusions of the landscape, but also extending both above and below the main part of town's 'sea level' (note that this town is at 6,000' or 1,800m altitude, and nowhere near water). From normal to unbelievably narrow roads extend up or down from the main drag, eventually turning into vehicle-impassable stairways, but sometimes crossing another road higher-up or further down that allows vehicular traffic to startlingly become renewed. This means you can never be 100% certain the footpath you are on is not doubling as a roadway, even if it is only 6 feet wide, and it just took you 30 steps to ascend. It also means that just because a road is 6 feet wide, does not mean you won't find cross-traffic dancing past each other, through the creative use of driveways, doorsteps, brakes and transmission applications. And therefore, as a pedestrian, it should become second nature to keep cognizant of buttresses and telephone poles (or anything bigger than a sub compact car), as a convenient refuge while you make your way past cars squeaking by each other up a 25 degree incline or around a 300 degree corner, much the same way highway drivers keep a mental note of empty gaps around them, as a second-nature escape route in case they're needed. Don't let that frighten you – it's not a required procedure, but will turn you from a frequently setback pedestrian into an seasoned and fluid street navigator.

Fortunately, whether you're the type of person that gets around by remembering visual landmarks, or some mental Cartesian grid, both methods work here, and you'll never find yourself lost for more than a minute at worst. In the hilly sections of other central Mexican highland towns, you may see more than one type of stonework comprising the streets 'asphalt' of sorts. But in Taxco, you'll often see three types of cut stone, employed as visible delineates, but more importantly, as different means of providing grip in the varied climate conditions. Even so, when you've had one of those kinds of sustained slimy downpours, the roads can still be a little slippery. So the most important thing for visitors to Taxco are to wear hiking boots with arch & ankle support, and great grip, because unless you'll be there for over a month, you still won't be navigating the streets as expertly as a local wearing only running shoes, and could easily sprain an ankle or at the very least get mighty fatigued feet. This also means you just plain don't want to drive once here, even though I've actually seen Jaguars and Mercedes thread their way through the hilly sidestreets – I don't think any insurer would approve.

There's lots of youth and vitality to the town, as there are tons of schools around and nearby, and lots of elderly locals. I would imagine that at peak travel times, there's probably a lot of elderly visitors too, sticking to the flattest parts of the main drag. This keeps the menus from becoming stodgy, and the galleries with some fresh notions, and all the towns various support services don't become inflexible. But a lot of learned expertise is also present, making it one of those towns with a nice mix of ages. Tourism-focused stores (not counting the market stalls) tend to fall into three categories: major discount shops that resell everything (and all sell pretty well the same kind of stuff, making it a real commodity war); local assembly artisans, that source things from across Mexico and abroad, and make their own jewelery as creatively as they can from similar sources of raw objects (all remaining surprisingly unique, although still having a vaguely similar feel from shop to shop); and the named artists with galleries in Taxco and abroad, with unusual silver applications, animal, organic or off-geometric patterns as objects of higher-end furniture or dinner sets (often stunningly beautiful and fresh, tempered only by the equally stunning prices). Either way, you can get some great stuff within your spending bracket. Stores and sanctioned markets selling jewelery stamped with the silver content can be trusted – but there are a couple of ad-hoc markets with stamped jewelery that cannot be trusted. And don't be surprised or suspicious if even valid silver isn't stamped with the traditional ".925" (92.5%) - silver here can be as high as 97.5% content (".975"). It should always be stamped with the silver content percentage though – regardless of the amount. And yes, it's OK to haggle, but don't be insulting or unrealistic – if something is beyond your means, be firm and up front – don't make someone struggle trying all sorts of creative solutions when you know you can't afford something or don't really want it at any price. I found the prices for some 'assembled' types of jewelery to be so reasonable, and watched (while perusing the stores) the whole families involved in concentrated efforts, that sometimes I happily paid full price, knowing fully then that these people owned the store and would have a little extra profit that day, and yet I still got some great deals.

 Around the Santa Prisca church and plaza, you will see a few beggars or their proxy children. They're not as evident elsewhere. But you'll find everyone else so friendly and helpful that you never need to worry about finding something or getting lost. As always, showing a modicum of respect by making an attempt to ask in Spanish, and not interrupting someone obviously quite engaged, goes a long way: just don't be a boor and you won't have a concern in the world. Explore the side roads and alleyways, the steep steps and gardens, wavy walls, stone and ironwork. The harsh, contrasty and rapidly changing lighting and scenes will prove a challenge for conventionally processed films unless you really control what you're capturing: the wider dynamic range and metering methods of a digital camera will go a lot further here for most amateur photographers. Even with an automatic digital camera though, you will still want to manually over-ride (+/-) the automatic exposure to really bring out the glossy reflections or creviced foliage to its full splendour (reread your manual on how to use this).

At sunrise, you might see the hills disappearing softly below in haze or mists, and at sunset, you get the consistent scene colouring coupled with stark shadows and irregular rooftops. Check out the restaurants to see where a few people are working, and hopefully with some customers, and that have an interesting menu. There are some very good meals to be enjoyed in Taxco, and the only way to discover them is to explore on foot. Most meals were quite reasonably priced too, so enjoy!

This is a 3 and 1/2 hour tour leaving at 1pm. This allowed us time to do a little shopping, yes I actually bought Al a Panama hat and yes I went back and forth with the shop owner. No I won’t pay $20 I…Read More

This is a 3 and 1/2 hour tour leaving at 1pm. This allowed us time to do a little shopping, yes I actually bought Al a Panama hat and yes I went back and forth with the shop owner. No I won’t pay $20 I could have bought it cheaper in Key West, I finally settled on $15 and actually that is a lot cheaper than Key west but I’m also sure I should have only paid $10 but I am a pretty pathetic bargainer. On the other hand my friend Richard got his sombrero’s at a very discounted price and they even through in an ankle bracelet for Jackie.

Originally we hadn’t wanted to take the catamaran tour because there was all you could drink beer and Margaritas and we figured it was going to be a bunch of rowdy kids. Well we were half right. There were a lot of rowdy woman and men but most of them were closer to being senior citizens than twenty somethings. It was pretty funny in a pathetic sort of way.

This is the one excursion that I have mixed feelings about. I am very glad we did it because now I know I can snorkel but I would never, and I do mean never do it this way again. The crew was very friendly but since we were not the first ones on the boat we ended up sitting on the cooler all the way out to the reef, there were not enough seats. Then it was chaos, everyone on the deck at one time trying to put flippers on their feet. My masks didn’t fit right and the snorkel was in backwards. Even this I could have gotten around but you can’t drop 100 people into a little tiny area all at once when none of them know what they are doing. My eyes started to burn because my mask was leaking and I couldn’t see anything. My friend Jackie kept getting kicked in the face by the people around her, it was claustrophobia to say the least. Finally, the reef was destroyed by the hurricanes last year and there really wasn’t anything to see. One or two fish swam by until we said yes we wanted our photo taken and then whoosh a bunch flew by us makes for an impressive picture but it is a complete fabrication.

Getting back into the boat with flippers was quite a feat for everyone but now the fun was about to start. We headed out to a private beach where we lay in hammocks and watched the men folk play volleyball. You could horseback ride, kayak, swim or just chill out and the Margaritas and beers were still flowing.

The ride back was more Margaritas and beers, lots of good music and frankly in spite of the awful snorkel experience we considered it a day well spent. People watching after all is a sport of its own.    Close

We've just returned from Cozumel Mexico with Carnival. The diving was great! And thanks to a great dive master, George, we saw wonderful reefs and wild life including some lobsters close to two feet long, a moray eel that was over 1.5 meters with a…Read More

We've just returned from Cozumel Mexico with Carnival. The diving was great! And thanks to a great dive master, George, we saw wonderful reefs and wild life including some lobsters close to two feet long, a moray eel that was over 1.5 meters with a radius of about 12 inches, and an octopus coiled up in a small hole in the reef. Water clarity was wonderful with visibility well over 100 feet. I had never dived at Cozumel before the hurricane, but we saw no remnants of the hurricane. Maybe there it was better before, but I can only judge based on what I saw this trip and it was spectacular.

We were diving with the Carnival contracted dive company AguaWorld. They were a large operation with at least 3 dive boat but only took divers from the cruise line. They have no office, so no website or phone number. I would have gone with another company due to price, US$85 for two tanks, but I did not have time to arrange with another provider. Their boats were in good shape but no bathrooms and the diesel exhaust was overwhelming as you reentered the boat. Some of the divers were disappointed that no wet suits or lunches were provided. I am not sure wet suits were needed, (I had my own) as the water was reported to be 83 degree at 30 meters down. I did notice that most of the divers were cold after returning to the boat including one lady that came back so cold her lips were blue. I would have liked to have had a sandwich between the dives as I eat a very small breakfast prior to diving.

On shore we asked around and found quite a few companies that were offering two tanks between US$65 and US$75, but I don’t know when they would have been leaving and if they would be back in time for our departure.

Our dive master was great, but due to no food, no wet suits, and the boats exhaust, if going on Carnival, I recommend that you contract with a local dive operator prior to arriving at the site.   Close

This relatively sleepy town doesn't have the frantic pace of Cabo San Lucas, but the shopping is worth your time. And in particular, you want to leave at least 30 minutes for Sol Dorado (Blvd. Mijares No. 33-A), a store so amazing and exclusive that…Read More

This relatively sleepy town doesn't have the frantic pace of Cabo San Lucas, but the shopping is worth your time. And in particular, you want to leave at least 30 minutes for Sol Dorado (Blvd. Mijares No. 33-A), a store so amazing and exclusive that photographs are forbidden!

There is a second Sol Dorado at the Cabo Airport, in Terminal 3 (Delta, Alaska Air, United), but it is much smaller. As a place to get the last-minute gift, however, it can't be beat.

Another terrific store in San Jose is Veryka Art Gallery & Boutique (Blve. Mijares, #418 across from the Zocalo). It features astonishing arts and crafts, including the most expensive and ornate Day of the Dead pieces you'll ever see, created by Soula Moreno.

A second Veryka Gallery, virtually identical to the first, is at Plaza Bonita in Cabo San Lucas.

Try La Mina (Blvd. Mijares #33), set up to resemble a silver mine; Opal House (Blvd. Mijares & M. Doblado), with an astonishing collection of Mexican Fire Opals; the Cabo Wabo Boutique (Blvd. Mijares across from the Zocalo), with a wide selection of Cabo Wabo collectibles, hats, shirts and LOTS of Tequila (actually much more for sale than at the Cabo Wabo Cantina in Cabo San Lucas); and Bye Bye (Blvd. Mijares #27), featuring very good quality cotton clothing, especially men's shirts, all with the bittersweet "Bye Bye Cabo" logo...

Lots of places to grab a bite in San Jose del Cabo, of course. Stay away from La Panga Antigua (see review), but give a try to El Comal (La Case de Don Rodrigo, Blvd. Mijares), Hananero's (Plaza Mision, Blvd. Mijares), and especially Morgan's (M. Doblado & Hidalgo).

And the San Jose del Cabo Airport, as mentioned above, has a Sol Dorado store, a high-end jeweler, lots of souvenir shops, and yet another Cabo Wabo store.    Close

... with the same ingredients but with a twist.Tacos are made with tortillas rolled or folded around something, with quesadillas you put the raw dough of the tortilla and then put something inside, then fold, and then fry it. A variation would have the lady…Read More

... with the same ingredients but with a twist.

Tacos are made with tortillas rolled or folded around something, with quesadillas you put the raw dough of the tortilla and then put something inside, then fold, and then fry it. A variation would have the lady making special tortillas, a bit ticker, on the spot and then stuff them.

But another difference from tacos is the ingredients you put inside, traditionally you have meltable cheese (Oaxaca and asadero are the most common) and a variety of already cooked items that could be a main dish by their own, like chicken, chicharron, mushrooms, squash flower (Flor de Calabaza), corn fungus (huitlacoche, a delicacy in Mexican tables only available on the rainy season), cow brains (sesos), and lots more.

Quesadillas are made on the spot, so you will always have a freshly made one. As most of the food, you need to eat it while still hot, after an hour it won´t taste the same and the texture will definitively be lost, no microwave oven or Granny tricks will help in this department, if you don´t have your quesadilla on the spot you miss part of the experience.

One fact that may surprise you, is that normally there is only one lady (men are bad for shaping the quesadillas) preparing the quesadillas. Even on a very crowded food stand, the lady may have some help on other areas, but cooking is Her position. And they can have orders of 20 or 40 in a matter of a short time, so you need to be patient, this is not a McD (fortunatley) where food is made fast, true it´s junk food but more tasty.   Close

Mole is widely known for being the spicy sauce with chocolate. That is true but partially as there are many kinds of mole. Mole is the generic name for the thick salsa made with a lot of ingredients, it would be the equivalent of curry…Read More

Mole is widely known for being the spicy sauce with chocolate. That is true but partially as there are many kinds of mole. Mole is the generic name for the thick salsa made with a lot of ingredients, it would be the equivalent of curry in Indian gastronomy.

In this particular case I´m showing you the one that goes with traditional Enchiladas de mole. This one is dark brown with tints of reddish. Depending on the recipe there can be as much as 8 to 10 different varieties of chiles, ranging from pasilla, morita, ancho, etc., it all depends on the region the mole is from, which ones are more easily available, and of course affordable. You also have chocolate of course, but don´t think you will be pouring MilkyWays and M&Ms, the true chocolate has very little sugar; you also have platano macho (plantain) as a great addition to the flavor and consistency of the sauce, you fry it and the mash into a paste before adding it to the mix.

The mole is not exactly an everyday dish in small towns, it is festive food for the gib occasions, like a wedding or to celebrate the birth of a son, on those days it would be Mole with Guajolote (the local turkey) which is tastier and more expensive than with chicken.

Now with modern transport and economy is easier and cheaper to get the ingredients and so you can have a plate of enchiladas de mole on an everyday basis available for any small restaurant.

The mildness or hotness of the mole depends on the recipe and the cook. Normally mole negro is not that hot, it may rank in the middle of the scale or lower, but if you find it too spicy for your taste you are advised to sprinkle some sugar.

Buen provecho.   Close