Part 1 We were in the middle of South America when disaster struck. I had arrived in Argentina four months ago, met with some friends as we crossed the continent to Chile, and we were now all in Potosí, Bolivia, the highest city in the…Read More

Part 1


We were in the middle of South America when disaster struck. I had arrived in Argentina four months ago, met with some friends as we crossed the continent to Chile, and we were now all in Potosí, Bolivia, the highest city in the world.

There were five of us, but one of our number had been nick-named 'Calamity John' as he was incredibly accident-prone. One month previously, when we visited the Northern desert of Chile, he had been spiked with the powerful hallucinogenic drug mescaline as a consequence of being loud and obnoxious on his birthday. Apparently the locals did not like having their quiet oasis town invaded by Gringos.

Now John managed to get salmonella and appendicitis simultaneously and had to have a truly terrifying operation in one of the world's poorest countries. Thankfully he survived, but we now had to rethink our travelling plans as he flew home.

Two of the guys decided to return to Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, because many beautiful women live there. My friend James and I were also looking for adventure. We had been following the test series of 2000 between West Indies and South Africa when we realised the final match would be the last performance of the great fast bowler Courtney Walsh, to be played on his home ground in Jamaica. Frantic calls were made. Could we get tickets? We poured through the Lonely Planet books. Was it possible to get from Bolivia to Jamaica in six days?

The tickets were booked for us to pick-up in Kingston and we set off. We first arrived in Cuzco, as probably the only people in the world to go through the airport there without plans to visit the great Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. We then arrived in Lima, Peru, where we boarded a bus headed for Bogotá, Colombia. It had not occurred to me that the journey would take three days and that I should take a wash bag and change of clothes from my backpack which was in the hold of the bus.

The bus drive, winding through awe-inspiring Andean mountains cloaked in thick cloud forest, was punctuated with regular stops by paramilitaries with guns doing passport checks.

The bus then broke down in the Southern foothills of Colombia where many of the drug cartels are. While the South Americans on the bus prayed for Semana Santa, the holy week, we prayed we would not be kidnapped. Luckily we managed to find car hire from Rhino in Colombia to continue our journey. The next stop was Bogotá. The only thing I can say about Colombia's capital is that luckily we were only there briefly to get a connecting flight. Panama proved a welcome respite from our frequent run-ins with fire arms and danger.

Until we reached Jamaica. We were due to collect the tickets from a friend of a friend who lived in a large house in a wealthy area of Kingston. The sight of two scruffy teenagers arriving at her gate obviously caused alarm, because before we knew it a Toyota with blacked-out windows carrying two ex-police officers pulled up and pointed guns at us. They were from a private security company for those who could afford protection in Kingston. As the men got out of the car, we slowly held up our passports "We're here to watch the cricket!"

Their demeanour changed immediately. They got the lady in the house to give us the tickets, (though she still did not come out to say hello), and drove us around till they found a beautiful hotel on a hill where we could stay cheaply. We even had a drink in the hotel bar and a chat about cricket after they had dropped us off.


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I got married at Sandal's Grand Ocho Rios in November of 2005. Many of the Caribbean resorts offer packages for weddings at deep discounts to get you to stay at their hotel. When I arrived in Jamaica, I stayed at Sandal's Montego Bay for 3…Read More

I got married at Sandal's Grand Ocho Rios in November of 2005. Many of the Caribbean resorts offer packages for weddings at deep discounts to get you to stay at their hotel. When I arrived in Jamaica, I stayed at Sandal's Montego Bay for 3 nights, and then transferred to Ocho Rios for another 5 nights. In order to get a free wedding, I had to stay at one resort for a minimum of 5 nights. I think they have recently changed this to 7 nights.

If you are considering a wedding at Sandal's, you should be aware that your guests probably won't like the idea. There are massive restrictions. It's a couples resort, so they will have to find someone of the opposite sex to share a room with them. If they don't stay at the resort, they will have to pay an entrance fee or be forced to leave within an hour or two. We found it much easier to just not invite anyone. It's much easier to throw a party once you get back home. In my opinion the wedding was for us, not the guests.

The morning of the wedding, I had to get my hair and makeup done, which turned out fantastic and I was really happy with it. I put on my dress right before the wedding, and a driver will pick you and up and take you to your wedding venue. I had a pretty simple dress that just went down to my knees. The brides I saw mostly had simple dresses. It's hard to get married on a windy beach with a big formal dress. We choose a little gazebo on the beach. It's semi-private, but I didn't notice anyone else. The wedding was brief and since we didn't have any guests we kind of just sped through our cake and wine. We ordered 24 photos, which doesn't seem like much compared to what most weddings have, but it was more than enough for us. The photos include pictures of the ceremony, beach photos, garden photos, and a mixture of other places throughout the resort on the riviera side. They took about 80 pictures and we had to decide which ones we wanted. It wasn't easy, but at $25 an extra photo, we got it down to 24 pictures at a cost of $240.

When we got back to our room, the maid had arranged flower petals over our bed and it was really quite pretty. We got breakfast in bed the next day.    Close

~@~@~@~ Where to stay ~@~@~@~ As I have said, there is something for everyone here and I could not possibly do justice to the range in this opinion. The main tourist areas are Montego Bay, Ochos Rios and Negril and there are many websites which…Read More

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Where to stay
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As I have said, there is something for everyone here and I could not possibly do justice to the range in this opinion. The main tourist areas are Montego Bay, Ochos Rios and Negril and there are many websites which will give full details of these areas. I will also write a review on OR and Negril.
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What to see
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For us there were so many things that we would put on a must do list but the following were probably the best:
- Climb Dunns River Falls - you can climb up almost 900 feet on fast running waterfall from a start on the beach. Exhilarating, beautiful and worth the $6 entry fee.
- Take a sunset cruise - watch the sun setting from the west coast on a boat, make it romantic or join in the party atmosphere that is bound to be created by the crew - you will not see a sunset like it!
- Go on a plantation tour - we went to the Prospect Plantation and learned so much about the history of the island as well as being afforded the chance to see much of the wildlife of the island. Again the contrasts abound, from humming bird to albatross, orchid to giant palm...
- Go diving or snorkelling - the reefs are plentiful and the sights colourful. Watch out for the urchins though!
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What to do
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Whatever you want; be lazy on the beach, go hiking in the mountains, dance to the reggae beat or shop til you drop - it is everyone's island.    Close

~@~@~ Hassle ~@~@~ I went to Jamaica expecting a few problems and had none. You hear talk of drugs and muggings and general advice is not to travel alone or at night unless escorted in a group. Only use official taxis. Whilst there, ganja or…Read More

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Hassle
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I went to Jamaica expecting a few problems and had none. You hear talk of drugs and muggings and general advice is not to travel alone or at night unless escorted in a group. Only use official taxis. Whilst there, ganja or marijuana seemed to abound but a polite refusal of an offer to sell was all that was required. Likewise it soon became evident that it was in a Jamaican's nature to "hassle" you to buy. Again, a polite refusal and you were left alone, even in the markets that edged the tourist attractions. We did heed the advice to travel safely and so I cannot comment on the risk of attack, however, as with all countries including our own it is surely sensible advice that is being given.

The tourist board is currently surveying passengers as they wait to go home from the major airports to assess the level of hassle that is experienced. They are trying really hard to reverse the image of Jamaica cultivated in the 1980s at a time when the country was very unstable and many of the population desperate. They are succeeding.

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Tipping
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The only annoyance that we found was the requirement (I did intend to use that word) to tip everyone. We stayed in a resort where tipping was prohibited but everywhere outside of the resort tips were not only expected, they were demanded. Upon arrival at the airport our bags were taken from us to the bus, a distance of only about 20 yards. We had no choice in this, the hotel rep told the porter to take the bags and they were gone before we realised. The porter would not put the bags on the bus however, nor allow us to, until he had been tipped. At this point we did not have any Jamaican currency, neither did we have any small US notes and after travelling for almost 20 hours by this point we didn't feel like arguing and so a very happy porter left with a very sizeable tip. If there was one thing I learned on this trip it was that wads of dollar bills are a necessity. Bus drivers and guides all expect a tip as do crew of any boats you go on. At a local airstrip whist waiting for an internal flight a tip was demanded from us from a security guard. What he did we are not sure but when faced with a man with a gun positively demanding you to pay up I'm afraid we just gave in...

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Jamaica, one of the most alluring of the Caribbean islands, lives as a tourist brochure cliché of tropical scenery and shimmering beaches. Its sunsets provide the backdrop for many a romantic picture and the reported laid back nature of the locals with a ready smile…Read More

Jamaica, one of the most alluring of the Caribbean islands, lives as a tourist brochure cliché of tropical scenery and shimmering beaches. Its sunsets provide the backdrop for many a romantic picture and the reported laid back nature of the locals with a ready smile and quick wit portray a happy-go-lucky island.

Jamaica is everyone's island in the sun. Unlike its neighbours who cater mainly for the rich and famous Jamaica really is somewhere for everyone. From the private villa with its guarded private beach to the non-stop party resorts where the beach is a party and the water rum, Jamaica really caters for all-comers. Go to be pampered at a spa or be adventurous in the mountains, find a B&B by the road or an all-inclusive, the choice is there for the taking.

The contrasts are not only to be found in the types of traveller to visit or the type of accommodation selected but in the country itself. Rainforest-like mountains give way to desert like plains which melt into lush mangrove swamps and finally crystal sea. Viewed from the air whilst making an internal flight in a small aircraft the contrast was all too evident, a kaleidoscope of colour stretching as far as the eye could see, greens, blues, yellows and reds as you have never seen before.

The social contrast is even more apparent. Arriving in Montego Bay (the arrival airport for most foreign holidaymakers) your first impression is of a developing country. The airport is basic although there is a clear US influence with American style-security and advertising. It is a rather strange experience to be told to "wait behind the yellow line" at passport control whilst a local group in traditional dress welcome you to Jamaica with traditional upbeat songs. Leaving the airport takes you through a commercial centre, rather more US/European in style before giving way to the real-Jamaica. As you drive (or should I say careen) along the potholed roads at an alarming speed you pass grand, colonial style houses neighboured by wooden shacks. As you pass through the villages you realise that the brochured image of Jamaica is about as far from reality as is possible. The towns are densely populated and poverty is everywhere. I found it really hard to believe that this was the same country as that which I had selected to spend my honeymoon in, robed in the lap of luxury in an all-inclusive resort. As we neared our resort in Ochos Rios the shanty towns made way to open roads lined with huts, some clearly lived in, others the base for a meagre trade in refreshments or wood carvings. As we entered the resort Jamaica became an island not of contrast but of contradiction. All that separated our home for the next week from the real country was a six-foot wall. No barbed wire or armed security (although I'm sure that they were present), just a man in a booth on the gate. To the seaward side of this wall lay an estate of luxury, mown grass and well-stocked tropical gardens, to the other side lay unusable rough land fringed with shacks housing far more people than seemed humanly possible plying a trade that no-one was buying. Think too hard and it hurts.

Jamaica is positively bathing in history and it is from these complex roots that much of the culture has evolved. It is the land of the Rastafarian, the colonial plantation, the slave and the pirate. Jamaica's motto - "out of many, one people" encapsulates the country. Talking to locals there are so many stories to be told and so many lives to experience that I could not hope to do the people justice in this review - there is simply not enough space. Most Jamaicans are of African or African/European descent and almost without exception they are a friendly, outgoing nation who are seemingly unaware of the many social and economic problems evident to the traveller. Life is laid back ("soon come") and care free ("no problem mon") - life is simply alright ("Irie").

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As you might suspect, my humble abode is filled with momentos from travels through Europe and the Caribbean. Yet I need to look no further than my immediate surroundings for confrimation of the negative slant this journal takes. The only thing visible from…Read More

As you might suspect, my humble abode is filled with momentos from travels through Europe and the Caribbean. Yet I need to look no further than my immediate surroundings for confrimation of the negative slant this journal takes. The only thing visible from Jamaica is a poster-size enlargement of one of my colorful sunset shots. Otherwise, there's nothing...and even the photo album is lacking since opportunities were limited, or I felt too intimidated to pull out my camera when they weren't.

Perhaps I should've accepted and succumbed to resort life and all the amenities you pay for, but it's not my style. Nor is it within my nature to embrace feeling vulnerable and intimidated when I rather pride myself on facing and conquering those elements daily where I live. My travels are to get a break from the stresses of everyday life, but so far Jamaica's the only place I didn't find relief since conditions were actually worse.

Certain unspoken, yet very real expectations for so-called quality of life in NYC were quickly trampled here largely due to the poverty of their general public. But whether you hail from a large city like New York or small town anywhere, I can't imagine anyone feeling comfortable with what ensues at the very places tourists are taken to when leaving the resort.

The saturation of locals' crafts markets are hard to avoid without never leaving the security provided by the resort fence. You'd expect the desperation of need to make a sale amidst countless other vendors all basically selling the same stuff. What you wouldn't expect, and need to prepare for, are the tactics in which they went about things.

Once the buses unloaded, or in some cases where the only exit from an attraction led thru one of these markets, the vendors were congregated and waiting for the "fair game". Insistance AND persistance is one thing, but when they start blocking your way, grabbing you by the arm and pulling you, and all but fighting with the other vendors over who's potential customer you are - something is VERY wrong!

Forget violation of personal space! I found these actions highly offensive which not only prohibited the freedom to at least leisurely browse, but obviously ability to make a purchase, too! And for those who didn't have experience dealing with aggressive big-city street vendors, they were sitting duck prey...just as I comparably witnessed in Tangiers' Kasbah. Yet I couldn't help but noticing even while skirting through as quickly as I could, those who had been apprehended were still subject to vendor squabbling over who would give them the better price, and ridicule for trying to pay with the local currency.

I bought nothing at any of these places, though I found it rather interesting that the locals can't be totally oblivious to how rudely and ineffectively they conduct theirselves. There was a "tempting" t-shirt being sold everywhere with bold letters which said: "NO, I DON'T WANT: any weed, a ride, my hair braided, a tour guide...and the list went on covering the entire front of the shirt based on all-too well known offers the touring sect is bomarded with.

Another incident, that I feel compelled to share based on potentially educating the traveling public, involves a well-known set-up I allowed myself to play into based on immediate need...and without even thinking. My Dunn's River Falls entry describes how we were dropped off in Ocho Rios for lunch and I opted for the local dining counter in lieu of the typical restaurant everyone safely filed into. When finished with my meal, I was looking for a restroom and this one young man pointed me to a park which was visible a couple of blocks away. I thanked him and set out.

The facility had a long hall before you turned to the right onto a shorter hall and entry into the bathroom. The door was locked. I walked back down the hall and had barely cleared the exit when I was surprised to suspiciously find the same young man who'd directed me. I told him the place was locked, yet he insisted we need to go back and check again. I declined and started to leave when he made a big scene about my not paying him for this information service to begin with. Again, I felt I held my own in not backing down, but he followed making threats all the way back until I boarded the safety of my tour bus. He then continued to circle the bus yelling at the windows.

So maybe you're thinking I should've just given this guy a couple of bucks to shut him up. To have done so would have not only exposed where I kept my money, but also to how much I might have had. Your guess is as good as mine to if he'd actually taken everything or done me harm, but I know these tactics all too well...just like directing me to the closed bathroom and leaving me trapped in a dead-end hallway. Unfortunately, this happens all too often to unsuspecting tourist in NYC who are pointed down side-subway entrances that are padlocked shut. Then, they're taken for all they've got from the helpful individuals who purposefully directed them there to begin with!

It is no wonder why they have justified tightened security at the resorts which are further fortefied with their insistance about not venturing out alone. My comfort levels were definitely challenged by these incidents which occured while on supervised excursions and as described in the entry about the day I went walking around unescorted in Montego Bay. But feeling intimidated, unsafe and vulnerable is not my idea for time spent anywhere.

I'm sure there are many who can argue these nightmarish encounters based on wonderful experiences they've had...and beyond the boundaries of the resort's protection. I'm glad you were fortunate enough to find them. But for the rest who are looking to "Come to Jamaica and Feel Alright", I could not or would not guarantee it.

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The spa and gym that is located at Enchanted Gardens has some great strengths and clear weaknesses that earn it a mixed review. The spa features extensive services for relaxation and physical well-being. These services, however, are not always executed well, and I…Read More

The spa and gym that is located at Enchanted Gardens has some great strengths and clear weaknesses that earn it a mixed review. The spa features extensive services for relaxation and physical well-being. These services, however, are not always executed well, and I got the impression that the procedures were modified on the spot so as to naturally require an additional "follow-up" treatent which came, of course, at an additional price.

I went there for sunburn relief, and purchased a moisturizing aloe body wrap. They poured somewhat cold water on me, then generously applied their own homemade aloe gel all over my aching skin. They then wrapped me up like a mummy in a bedsheet and poured freezing cold water over me. I couldn't exactly jump up as I was bound in a bedsheet! But I shivered and asked if they might try a little bit warmer water. The attendant said not to worry, I'd get used to it. She then left me alone in the room for twenty minutes without saying a word.

Maybe I'm just not used to tough love spa treatments but this lack of communication seemed odd to me. Afte twenty minutes and my resorting to call out to her, she finally arrived to find my teeth chattering. She said, oh, is that too cold? Well, in the end I was less preoccupied with pain and I allowed her to convince me to buy some additional aloe so I could simply escape without further harm.

The gym was fairly lacking in equipment, but I had the place to myself. I guess not too many honeymooning couples were interested in keeping up their work out regimens. There's not much in the way of cardiovascular equipment, and the locker room was inexplicably "unavailable." You might be better off jogging the extensive campus of the resort.

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Even though I think Kingston is a blight on the human experience, if you can arrange to visit a Blue Mountain coffee plantation, by all means do so. The coffee grown in the mountains behind Kingston is some of the best in the world, and…Read More

Even though I think Kingston is a blight on the human experience, if you can arrange to visit a Blue Mountain coffee plantation, by all means do so. The coffee grown in the mountains behind Kingston is some of the best in the world, and is almost beyond doubt the most expensive in the world. To be designated Blue Mountain, it must be grown above the 2,000-foot level.

The price for the coffee came about in an interesting manner. The industry was almost demolished by a hurricane in the 1950s, but the Japanese, who were just coming into their own, made a deal with the Jamaican coffee cooperative. In exchange for a gift of cash to get the industry going again, the Japanese would get the first right of refusal on each Jamaican coffee bean crop, and the Jamaicans could set the price. It looked like a win-win situation to the Jamaicans, and they made the deal.

It has indeed been a win-win deal and the Japanese buy almost the entire crop every year, but release enough onto the world market for people to get a sampling of the coffee. Thus, when you visit Jamaica and see the Blue Mountain coffee selling for US$30 a pound, you will know why it is so expensive. It is good, make no mistake about it, but probably not that good. The laws of supply and demand at work.

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The RIU Club Hotel Negril is an all-inclusive resort on a private beach in Negril. The first question that almost everyone has about an all-inclusive is "How’s the food?" So here’s the skinny on the RIU. The RIU Club Hotel has a buffet (Green Island) for…Read More

The RIU Club Hotel Negril is an all-inclusive resort on a private beach in Negril. The first question that almost everyone has about an all-inclusive is "How’s the food?" So here’s the skinny on the RIU.

The RIU Club Hotel has a buffet (Green Island) for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. In addition, there are three "restaurants" on the property–-the Steakhouse, Sir Andrew, and Ridiccio. The Steakhouse is just that, a steak dinner. Sir Andrew’s menu features a lot of seafood, with standard chicken and beef choices, and Ridiccio is a Brazilian menu.

The process of getting reservations for these restaurants was a new concept to me. At 8am every morning, a table is set up outside the Green Island buffet, and people stand in line to make reservations. This is cutthroat business, as people start lining up as early as 6:30am (though I think you could get by with 7:15 or 7:30). There are two seating times for each–-7pm and 9pm. The 7pm times go first, and Sir Andrew is the most popular restaurant, usually running out of seating early on.

We only had the opportunity to eat at the Steakhouse, so that’s the only first-hand knowledge I have. However, in conversations with my fellow line-standers, Sir Andrew’s food is the best of the three restaurants. As for me, I thought the Steakhouse was very good, so if Sir Andrew is better, then it must be REALLY good.

At the Steakhouse, you are given a menu of several different courses. You assume you’re going to have to pick one item from each course, but in fact, you get EVERYTHING that’s on the menu. Starters are a salad, fried "delicacies" (cheese, onion rings, eggrolls), and soup. The main course consists of a steak cooked to order, corn on the cob, a baked potato, and some veggies. Dessert is Alaskan cake.

Outside the realm of these restaurants exists the standard buffet. I am a very picky eater, and I was always able to find several things I liked. The breakfast buffet is your standard breakfast buffet–-hashbrowns, eggs (you can order them to your liking, get an omelets, or eat the pre-cooked scrambled eggs), bacon, sausage, cereal, and milk (about six different choices), fruit, cheese, waffles, pancakes, donuts, muffins, etc.

For lunch, the Steakhouse restaurant turns into a snack bar and features hamburgers, hot dogs, fruit, cheese, salad, french fries, etc.

Dinner is pretty standard, although they did have Mediterranean night one night during our stay. There was chicken, beef, pork, potatoes (mashed, scalloped, etc.), seafood, fruit, salads, etc. There was a huge selection.

Be on your toes; people can get pretty snarky when it comes to that last waffle or that last bit of cheese. It’s more like a full-contact sport than dinner. However, the staff is wonderful. They keep your old plates clear, serve you water or wine, and make sure you can find everything. Our favorite waiter was Andre, and he looked for us each morning at breakfast to find out our activities the previous day. My only caution is if you sit outside--those tables come at a premium. We had just been served coffee one morning for breakfast, we got up for round two at the buffet, and we came back to find our table cleared and someone else sitting there!

I’d rate the food at the RIU a strong 8 out of 10.

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We were at the resort Sandals Dunn's River Villagio Golf Resort & Spa in Ocho Rios, Jamacia from Jan 10-17, 2009. From housekeeping to management: The hotel was beautiful with all the Italian influenced stone work and the beautiful carvings of animals in and around…Read More

We were at the resort Sandals Dunn's River Villagio Golf Resort & Spa in Ocho Rios, Jamacia from Jan 10-17, 2009. From housekeeping to management: The hotel was beautiful with all the Italian influenced stone work and the beautiful carvings of animals in and around the resort. From our room you could see the ocean what a view! To our lovely cleaning lady Karen who kept our room so nice and clean. Tumar & the rest of the pizza crew-best oven pizza ever! The gentlemen who kept the beach so clean and took us snorkeling which I will never forget. We saw such beautiful colored fish and the reef was so surreal. To the gentlemen at the outside grill and Milton at the outside bar with his crew, the food was awesome and both areas served you fast and drinks made the right way. Always with a smile and sometimes a song! To Vavonne who took me for a hobby cat ride, I’d never done that before. He took along the shore and out into the waves it was GREAT plus he’s a pretty good singer himself. As for the dining and the inside bar area, you can’t get better service or food and drink anywhere else. I have eaten at regular dining to very expensive dining and they far pass the best that I have had including in Chicago. The breakfast buffet that we had every morning had everything you ever could imagine and the food was great. You could get any kind of omelet that you wanted plus a huge variety of delicious food and the waiting staff was always right there when you need them for you coffee or whatever. The entire waiting staff at the resort was the best of the best. Great coffee I must say yummm.
As for the outbuildings such as the Piano Bar, outside restrooms, courtyard, and poolside they were always so clean. The areas were swept every morning just like the beach area which was raked every morning and lounge chairs put out by the pool and beach were so nice and clean. They truly did a fantastic job. The vegetation in and around the entire resort was outstanding! The gardening and maintenance people truly should be commended on their job. The Management and front desk people were always there when and if you needed them and the Red Lane Spa ladies had everything you needed or wanted for personal pampering yourself from couple massages to manicures, pedicures and anything else you needed.
Who could forget the photographer, Star! He did such a great job with all our pictures. They all turned out great including me sleeping a way in the chair, can’t get more relaxed than that.
The night entertainment was fantastic! There were shows every night and the entertainers were well one word sums it up…WOW! Plus there were different time that we got to interact with the entertainers like I got to play the big steel drums. That was so much fun; I could have done it all night.
But the greatest was the play makers. Their names are Shanna, Machel, Shanice, Shenece, Cacelia, Marlan, Ray and the tallest man on the island- Duran . They did all kinds of games to get people to interact, did shows, sang (Marlan please just say no ) wow what voices. They had such upbeat energy even at Midnight. They all were so nice and fun to be with they all were like magnets. They worked so hard yet we all had such a great time. They always made you feel good and had all kinds of fun things to do. One of the things that they did was have a Jamaican day were you got to learn about Jamaica, it was so interesting! They truly are the Best of the Best right along with the rest of the employees at the resort.
We HIGHLY recommend this resort!!! You just can’t get better! So ya man come on down and relax its no problem let them take care of you and stress just melts away!!!!
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