Dhaka was originally established in about the fourth century, but it was not until the seventeenth century during the Mughal period that Dhaka gained any particular importance. The Mughals built mosques, bazaars and gardens and this development began to attract European traders who were already…Read More

Dhaka was originally established in about the fourth century, but it was not until the seventeenth century during the Mughal period that Dhaka gained any particular importance. The Mughals built mosques, bazaars and gardens and this development began to attract European traders who were already established in southern India.

By the eighteenth century, Portuguese, Dutch, Greek, Armenian and French traders and merchants were having an influence in the town and the British East India Company had established a trading post. The East India Company eventually completely took control of Dhaka in 1765 and in 1824, Dhaka and all of what is now Bangladesh came under the control of the British Government. In 1887, Dhaka became a district capital of the Bangladesh region. It was at this time that Dhaka regained some status as an administrative centre and some substantial buildings were constructed.

Today Old Dhaka is just one part of a rapidly expanding city but for many visitors it is the most interesting and possibly the most frustrating. The maze of narrow streets crowded with people and vehicles, the fascias of old buildings covered in moss and grim, the street traders, the river traffic, the sheer chaos of it all make this area quite fascinating. Yet, for many it can become overwhelming and there seems no respite from the noise, heat and crowds. This is where a few places like Ahsan Manzil become a haven.

Ahsan Manzil was built in around 1872 by Dhaka’s wealthiest landowner as a residence. The interior is interesting and some of the furnishings are from the era in which it was constructed, but the exterior is the real highlight. The building occupies an imposing position overlooking the busy Buriganga River. The building faces the river and the gardens allow a vista of vegetation and water. Nothing else in Dhaka is quite like it. Go see it for a minimal admission charge from 10:30am-4:30pm Saturday to Wednesday and 4-7pm on Friday.

Not far away in the Shankharia bazaar area is Hindu Street where you can find Hindu artisans working in interesting old houses almost as they must have done a century ago. Some make shell jewelry, other carve stone headstones, some make kites and decorations. It is worth your while to walk this area without any particular destination in mind. Just make sure you know your directions because it is very easy to get lost. You just might stumble across old buildings, such as Bara Katra, which dates from the seventeenth century and was once a grand structure. Today it is decaying, but the part of the building that remains is still occupied. The only direction I can give is that it is a short distance towards the river from the Chowk Bazar Shahid Mosque.

Most of Bangladesh is very, very flat and the whole area is bisected with numerous rivers and streams. The rivers have traditionally been both transport routes and major transport barriers and they continue to be so today. However, things are changing. Bangladesh has recently completed…Read More

Most of Bangladesh is very, very flat and the whole area is bisected with numerous rivers and streams. The rivers have traditionally been both transport routes and major transport barriers and they continue to be so today. However, things are changing. Bangladesh has recently completed the construction of a series of bridges spanning some of the streams and road and rail transport is taking passengers and freight away from the rivers.

Nevertheless, river traffic is still important and the shear variety of craft makes it interesting for the visitor. Dhaka, and almost all the other major towns, is located on a river. One of the most interesting experiences in Dhaka is to get out on the river and see the river traffic for yourself. This can be done is several ways.

There is a cruise boat that operates half and full-day tours on the Turag River, which is on the western side of the city. This is operated by Contic and is recommended by some of the hotels. I have not had any experience with this. What I recommend is to take a small boat out on the teaming Bariganga River from old Dhaka. The best place to do this is at, or adjacent to, the Sadarghat boat terminal. The easiest boat to rent is one of the small hand operated canoes which provide transport across the river. These will take you from one side to the other for a few Taka but it is better to offer an operator 100 Taka (less than US$2) to give you a 30 minute trip along the river and back to your starting point. This can be difficult to negotiate because many operators don’t speak English but if you have a foreign face, it won’t be long before someone comes along to help.

The river at this point is at least half a kilometer wide but it seems crowded with boats of all types. There are the cross channel canoes, ancient houseboats tied up to the banks, barges used for transport and living, scores of large ferries which ply the waterways to country towns, and some ships which negotiate the river system from the Bay of Bengal. You see people washing, cooking, eating, sleeping and just lying around. You will be as interesting to them as they are to you. You will be amazed at the dexterity of the boatman as he weaves his way between other craft, missing some by a matter of metres. It looks like chaos to the untrained eye, but there must be a logic to all you see otherwise there would be collisions and fatalities on an hourly basis. Take your camera as there are lots of photo opportunities particularly early morning and late afternoon. You will need a good hat if you go at midday in summer because the boats have no cover.

Tours are also operated by Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation, the national tourism organization.

The Sundarbans National Park was included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997 and is one of the most talked about tourist attractions in Bangladesh, yet in practice it is visited by only a fraction of the country’s visitors. This is of concern to…Read More

The Sundarbans National Park was included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997 and is one of the most talked about tourist attractions in Bangladesh, yet in practice it is visited by only a fraction of the country’s visitors. This is of concern to the tourism authorities, but to me the reason is obvious. Combine a lack of information with a difficult-to-reach destination, mangrove forest, bandits, mosquitoes, and the slight possibility of seeing a famous Royal Bengal tiger and you have something that appeals to only a limited number of people.

I was given much conflicting information in Dhaka, so I was confused about what to do. This coupled with the fact that I was trying to visit in the off-season proved to be almost enough to put me off. I was told that I had to take an organized tour but that the official government agency only operated from November to March. I was told that there was no accommodation in the national park and that I would have to stay on a boat. I was told that a prior approval through a written application had to be organized with the Divisional Forest Officer in Khulna for permission to visit. Most of this was wrong. Then someone suggested that I visit Khulna and try from there.

You can reach Khulna from Dhaka by air to Jessore, road, or Rocket steamer. The Rocket is said to be a pleasant trip, but I went by rent-a-car. I stayed at the Hotel Royal International and found that this was a recognized place to organize a trip. The problem was that there were no other people going in the next few days. I decided to wait. After several days I was getting edgy. A small group who were supposed to be coming from Dhaka to do a 3-day trip had cancelled. I could see myself caught here for another week, so I took a bus to Mongla about 50km to the park.

I’m not sure if this was the right thing to do. On arriving in Mongla, I asked around for trips. Because this was the height of the wet season, it seemed no other tourists were in the area and again there seemed to be no prospect of a proper trip. The only alternative was to rent a fast boat for the day and go by myself. This proved to be an interesting exercise. I was quoted prices from US$20 to nearly US$75. No one seemed to be specific as to where we would go or how long we would spend in the forest. I finally decided on one operator who seemed slightly more reliable than the others and arranged to visit for one day.

There is no need to detail the trip. One day is clearly almost a waste of time if you are really interested in this environment. For me, one day proved that this was not really my thing. We saw no tigers and very little other wildlife. We saw quite a few mangroves and felt many mosquitoes. It is not difficult to understand why cholera injections and anti-malarial tablets are necessary and why you have to carry anti-diarrhea tablets, insect repellent cream, drinking water, a medical kit, and thick rubber-soled shoes if you want to go ashore.

There are two accommodations within the park, but they only operate for part of the year. There is a comfortable three-storied rest house operated by the Mongla Port Authority at Hiron Point and a Forest Department rest house at Katka. Both require you to make a prior booking. I didn’t make it this far because it takes 6 to 10 hours journey from Mongla, depending on the tides.
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If you fly into Bangladesh, you will be struck by the flatness of the land and the multitude of rivers flowing across the plains. On the ground it is even more startling. Most of Bangladesh is a huge alluvial plain never more than 10m above…Read More

If you fly into Bangladesh, you will be struck by the flatness of the land and the multitude of rivers flowing across the plains. On the ground it is even more startling. Most of Bangladesh is a huge alluvial plain never more than 10m above sea level. The great Himalayan Rivers, the Ganges, and Brahmaputra split into many channels as they cross Bangladesh and flow to the Bay of Bengal.

Until recently, ferry river crossings were a prominent feature of any land travel around Bangladesh. In the last 10 years, however, a succession of large bridges have been built using foreign-aid funds, and these have strikingly reduced the need to use ferries to cross the rivers.

This is a great improvement because the ferry crossings are guaranteed to raise your frustration level by several notches, as they are an incredibly disorganized operation.

We reached the Padma River crossing late one afternoon after a long drive on a hot day. Dhaka was a tantalizing 45 minutes from the other side of the river, and I was keen to reach it as quickly as possible. My spirits soared as we approached the ferry crossing. Good luck saw a ferry sitting on our side of the river waiting for vehicles. We were ushered into a line and the driver stopped the engine. I asked what was happening. We have to wait for two busses to be loaded first, I was told. The problem was they were not here yet.

One hour later and we were still waiting in line. It was getting dark and I was getting frustrated. It was another 30 minutes before the first bus arrived. The second followed about 15 minutes later. After a further delay, the two buses boarded. Five large trucks followed. The ferry was a side loading affair, and after much maneuvering, the crew decided that they couldn’t fit the last truck into the designated space and it had to be unloaded. What followed was a 10-minute saga fit for a Keystone Cops movie. Finally, after 2 hours of waiting, we were ready to board. We were about the sixth vehicle in line, but the position of the buses and trucks made boarding quite a challenge. After much misdirection and arm waving, we finally made it into a space that was so tight, we couldn’t open any doors to get out.

For the next hour and a quarter we could only imagine what was happening. Eventually, the ferry started to move and the oppressive heat was replaced with the gentlest of breezes. The river from the bank had looked to be about 3km wide, but the crossing took close to an hour. It was now completely dark and we were stuck in the car, so it was impossible to tell where we went. We eventually reached the other side and another madhouse ensured. It was everyone for themselves as cars, buses, and trucks all tried to get off at the same time. One car ended up with a long scrap down one side, but no one seemed to care. All the staff wanted was tips because of the wonderful job they had done!

They must have been kidding. Three and a half hours and we were finally across. There will be no more Bangladeshi ferries for me.
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Outside the larger cities, your choice of food and restaurant will be quite restricted. In Dhaka there are some excellent restaurants serving Thai, Chinese, Italian, and other cuisines, but in the countryside you will only find basic restaurants and local food. Local food has been…Read More

Outside the larger cities, your choice of food and restaurant will be quite restricted. In Dhaka there are some excellent restaurants serving Thai, Chinese, Italian, and other cuisines, but in the countryside you will only find basic restaurants and local food. Local food has been influenced by history, geography, and religion--the Mughals, the Indians, and the Muslims.

A typical rural meal will consist of rice and a curry made from beef, mutton, chicken, fish or egg, cooked in a spicy sauce and served with cooked yellow lentils (dahl). After a while you will start to get sick of it. This is when you will explore other things which may be available. Look for Bhuna, which is meat fried over high heat served with a spicy sauce. Bhaji is fried beans, squash, or some other vegetable. Khichuri is rice and lentils cooked together. Tikka is sometimes available and is usually chicken with sauce served with Indian-style naan bread. Fish is sometimes available with Bhetki, a sea bass, one of the best species. Bread and biscuits are available everywhere, and at times this will be all that appeals. Eat them with the local milky sweet tea and you will survive for another day.

Drinks can be a problem. Bottled water is usually available, but there is no guarantee that the bottle has not been refilled using unsafe water. International soft drinks are readily available, and some local brands at half the price compete with these. Green coconut juice is safe if you see the coconut being opened, and this can be helpful in treating diarrhoea, which you will catch at some time during your Bangladeshi travels. Alcoholic drinks are not usually available, and I advise against trying the local brews you may be offered in some areas.

Traditionally, meals are served on the floor with each person sitting on a small piece of square carpet, but this is now rare in restaurants. Instead you will sit at rickety tables and probably be expected to eat with your hands. Don’t be concerned about manners, as you will notice vastly different eating styles and plenty of slurping, burping, and playing with the food. Always wash your hands before you eat, never put food into your mouth with the left hand, and have fun.

You can finish a meal with some fruit (oranges, bananas, and mangoes are available for many months of the year) or some sweetened yogurt (misti doi). Lassi, the great yogurt drink very common in India, Tibet, and Nepal, is sometimes available, but I have never really enjoyed the Bangladeshi version. Perhaps you will have more luck.Close

Most internal transport within Bangladesh is incredibly cheap, particularly for locals, so everyone uses it all the time, and hence most journeys are crowded. On airlines, foreigners pay higher fares but they are still cheap by most standards. The thing which distinguishes Bangladesh from most…Read More

Most internal transport within Bangladesh is incredibly cheap, particularly for locals, so everyone uses it all the time, and hence most journeys are crowded. On airlines, foreigners pay higher fares but they are still cheap by most standards. The thing which distinguishes Bangladesh from most countries is the presence of a well-developed and much-used system of river boats. These can be quite an experience.

I will try to briefly summarize ways of seeing the country.

Bus: I must be completely up front and say I am not a great fan of bus travel in Bangladesh. The problem is the amazing number of accidents that occur which would indicate that Bangladeshi bus drivers are some of the most reckless in Asia. If you spend more than a few minutes on a major highway, you will see that for yourself. Almost-out-of-control battered buses will roar past every few minutes, often scattering people and livestock in the process. I don’t think I traveled anywhere in the country without seeing the aftermath of an accident. If you must travel by bus, the air-conditioned coach liners are the most comfortable and safest. Ordinary buses are often incredibly crowded with bags, people, and chickens filling the aisles and sitting on the roof. Although it might appear to be a novelty, don’t follow the locals and use the roof. Numerous people get killed each year by tree branches or by falling off.

Train: There is quite an extensive system of railways within the country, but rail travel is hampered because there are three different gauges and because there are still places where you have to cross rivers by ferry rather than by bridge. Trains, however, are much less stressful than buses, and there is far more room at least in first class. Intercity trains are frequent on some routes and are relatively clean. First class is good, while second class with reserved seating is cheaper and acceptable. There are generally no buffet cars, but snacks are available from railway staff and at stations. On local trains, ordinary second class (you cannot book a seat) is often crowded and uncomfortable.

River boat: Ferry boats are popular and are operated by the government (Bangladesh Inland Waterway Transport Corporation) and various private operators. River travel can be relaxing and is comfortable in first class but is less so elsewhere. On many boats there are four classes, with deck class being the cheapest--it gives you nothing more than the right to occupy a space on the deck. One trip is particularly noteworthy. That is the “Rocket” service between Dhaka and Khulna. The trip takes about 26 hours and can be fun. First-class passengers get cabins with bunk beds and a washbasin. Bathrooms are shared. There is an outside deck at the front of the boat where you will be served tea and biscuits, and there are Western and Bangladeshi meals available in the dining room.

Air: There are two domestic airlines--Government-owned Biman and privately owned GMG. Biman has the larger planes, but GMG is classier. Most routes are between Dhaka and regional cities. The Dhaka-Chittagong service is the most popular, taking about 50 minutes and costing around US$50. Other services operate to Barisal, Jessore, Rajshahi, Sylhet, Cox’s Bazar, and Saidpur.Close

It was a dusk in May 2001. The sun had just set in the west. A reddish twilight was spread over the Padma. A gentle breeze was flowing over the crops of the alluvial land. I was just sitting near the water. My friend Zakir…Read More

It was a dusk in May 2001. The sun had just set in the west. A reddish twilight was spread over the Padma. A gentle breeze was flowing over the crops of the alluvial land. I was just sitting near the water. My friend Zakir was sinking towards the throat in the water of Padma. Shankar was reciting from the old scripture. It was just a celestial moment.

During another visit to Shilaidah, I enjoyed an evening there. On that evening I was standing on the first-floor balcony of the kuthibari. The night was just coming. I looked towards the earth. Many little flowers were shining in the earth. They are of many colors and sizes. How nice they were!

At a deep night of April, I was lying down on a stage of kuthibari. A strong wind was blowing. The earth was becoming cool. A small number of stars was twinkling in the sky. The big trees were moving their branches. Sounds of crickets and other insects were enjoyable. How excellent the night was!

So come to Shilaidah, stay here two nights, and become a poet.

OFFICIAL NAME: People's Republic of Bangladesh LOCATION: It is situated in the northeastern part of South Asia. NUMBER of RIVERS: 230 ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISION: Division - Six (6) Districts - Sixty four (64) Upazila - 465 CAPITAL CITY: Dhaka TIME DIFFERENCE: GMT + 6 WORKING HOURS: Office hours…Read More

OFFICIAL NAME: People's Republic of Bangladesh
LOCATION: It is situated in the northeastern part of South Asia.
NUMBER of RIVERS: 230
ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISION:
Division - Six (6)
Districts - Sixty four (64)
Upazila - 465
CAPITAL CITY: Dhaka
TIME DIFFERENCE: GMT + 6
WORKING HOURS: Office hours are 9am to 4pm, Saturday to Thursday. Closed on Fridays.
APPAREL: Tropical in summer and light wool in winter
BANKING HOURS: 9am to 3pm, Saturday to Wednesday. On Thursday, 9am to 1pm. Closed on Fridays.
NEWSPAPER: Newspapers are in Bangla and English. The main English newspapers are the Bangladesh Observer, the Bangladesh Times, the Daily Star, the New Nation, the Independent, etc.
ELECTRICITY: 220 volts A.C.
SEAPORT: Chittagong and Mongla
BEST TOURIST SEASON: October to March
EVERYDAY FOOD: Bread, rice, fish, dal, and vegetables are the main dishes for Bangladeshis.
FRUITS: Mango, lichi, banana, papaya, jackfruit, watermelon, pineapple, coconut, etc.
NATIONAL FLAG: Red circle on green background. Its shape is square.
POPULATION: 14 Crore (140 million) Close

The history of Bangladesh is old and eventful. The land has always attracted people. The earliest mention of Bangladesh is found in the Hindu epic, Mahabharata (the story of great battle in 9th century B.C.). Evidence also suggests that there was a strong Mongoloid presence.…Read More

The history of Bangladesh is old and eventful. The land has always attracted people. The earliest mention of Bangladesh is found in the Hindu epic, Mahabharata (the story of great battle in 9th century B.C.). Evidence also suggests that there was a strong Mongoloid presence. Soon after, in the 5th and 6th centuries B.C., came the Aryans from Central Asia. Then came the Guptas, Palas, and the Senas, who were Buddhist and Hindu.

From the 13th century A.D., the flood of Muslim invaders and the tide of Islam up to the 18th century swamped the Buddhist and Hindus. Sometimes there were independent rulers like Hussain Shahi and Ilyas Shahi dynasties, while, at other times, they ruled on behalf of the imperial seat of Delhi.

From 15th century, the Europeans - namely Portuguese, Dutch, French and British traders - exerted an economic influence over the region. British political rule over the region began in 1757 A.D. when the last Muslim ruler of Bengal (Nawab Siraj-ud- Dowla) was defeated at Palassey. In 1947, the country was partitioned into India and Pakistan. Present Bangladesh becomes the eastern wing of the then Pakistan. But the movement for autonomy for East Pakistan started within a couple of years because of language and cultural differences and economic disparity between the two wings. The seeds of independence were sown through the language movement in 1952 to recognize Bangla as a state language. Ultimately the then East Pakistan emerged as a sovereign and independent state of Bangladesh in 1971, after nine-month long war of liberation (starting on 26 March, 1971).

On the night of March 25th, the Pakistani army arrested our great national leader, Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman. On March 27th, then major (chief of army and Hon’able president later) Ziaur Rahman, declared the independence of Bangladesh on behalf of Bangabandu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman from the Kalurghat radio station in Chittagong.

On December 16, 1971, the Pakistani army surrendered at Surawardy Uddyan in Dhaka. It is our victory day. About three million people courted martyrdom in our liberation war.

Address: Dhakeswari Road, Old Dhaka Open: Varies throughout the year, but generally at least 10am to 5pm Sunday to Friday and 3pm to 6pm Friday The fort was built in 1678 by Prince Mohammad Azam, son of the Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb, who was then Viceroy of…Read More

Address: Dhakeswari Road, Old Dhaka
Open: Varies throughout the year, but generally at least 10am to 5pm Sunday to Friday and 3pm to 6pm Friday

The fort was built in 1678 by Prince Mohammad Azam, son of the Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb, who was then Viceroy of Bengal, but it was never finished because of the death of a young woman associated with the family. It was the scene of a bloody battle during the first war of independence (1857) against the British.

The walled fort covers quite a large area, but inside, there are only three buildings. One is a mosque, another a mausoleum, and the third a hall of audience. This latter building is the most interesting. The two-storey structure is attractive from the outside, and the inside provides an interesting look into another era. On the upper floor there is a small museum of Mughal paintings, various documents, swords, firearms, and other memorabilia. There are few explanations in English, and there may be some interesting items, but the museum was so hot on the day I visited that I was keen to get out as quickly as possible.

The mausoleum was closed, but I could walk around the building and see the inside. There is plenty of black-and-white marble and colored tiles, which I am told is unique within Bangladesh. I didn’t visit the mosque.

The grounds are extensive, and concrete paths lead through both mown and unkempt areas. Bangladeshis were sheltering under the trees to escape the blazing sun, and they looked in wonder or pity, I’m not sure which, at a foreigner walking around without a hat or umbrella. Clearly it would have been better to have been there at 5pm rather than 11:30am.