Chan Chan and the Huacas

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Overview

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Trujillo is surrounded by ancient archaeological ruins that predate the Inka civilization. Pyramids rise above the desert and the world's largest Adobe city surrounds Trujillo proper. One gets the feeling that Peru would like the north coast, including Trujillo, to be the next gem in its crown, the equivalent of Cusco and Machu Picchu. They need the tourism dollars, but they can't risk Machu Picchu.But Cusco and Machu Picchu have a few things going for them that the north coast lacks. For one, the surrounding natural areas are not as beautiful as the mountains. The desert is quite flat and with the coastal fog, it can feel quite dreary. The archaeological sites here are not as developed yet. T...Read More

Trujillo is surrounded by ancient archaeological ruins that predate the Inka civilization. Pyramids rise above the desert and the world's largest Adobe city surrounds Trujillo proper. One gets the feeling that Peru would like the north coast, including Trujillo, to be the next gem in its crown, the equivalent of Cusco and Machu Picchu. They need the tourism dollars, but they can't risk Machu Picchu.

But Cusco and Machu Picchu have a few things going for them that the north coast lacks. For one, the surrounding natural areas are not as beautiful as the mountains. The desert is quite flat and with the coastal fog, it can feel quite dreary. The archaeological sites here are not as developed yet. They can be difficult to get to, and when you arrive, you may not have the education to know what you are seeing. Many are much older than the Inka ruins and therefore are in worse states of repair. And while the Quechua culture is strong in the highlands, the coastal culture is strongly Spanish-influenced and therefore less interesting.

On the upside, it is much cheaper to eat, stay, and visit the sites here. There are far fewer tourists (we saw none outside of the two sights.) You can create your own organic experience and for those who like adventure and enjoying figuring it out for themselves, this place could be a wonderland. One good thing about the lack of tourists is the lack of touts. The roads to Chan Chan and the Huacas were not lined with people selling souvenirs, and you could easily walk down the street without being asked to buy a finger puppet. (Not so in Cusco).

During the summertime, the nearby beach of Huanchaco is famous for its surfing. Cevicherias line the beach and the ceviche in the north is supposedly the best.

Overall, I would not visit the area again, but I am glad I saw Chan Chan. I was disappointed, but keep in mind, my experiences were colored by the fact that my travelling companion had a terrible stomach virus and couldn't enjoy herself.

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Hotel Libertador Trujillo

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Hotel

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Hotel Libertador is appropriately located in the Independence plaza in the city where Peru declared its independence from Spain. The location couldn't be more central, looking out on what some people say is Peru's most beautiful square. The hotel has all the amenities of a 4 star hotel, with room service, television, hot water. It services business travellers, and there was a convention going on when we visited. Unfortunately, they closed the pool area during this event. Because of the hotel's business focus and the general lack of tourism in this part of Peru, it is possible to feel ignored as independent travellers. We never felt uncomfortable here, but we also never felt at home.The...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 3, 2007

Hotel Libertador Trujillo
Jr. Independencia 485
Trujillo, Peru
+51 (44) 232-741

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Huaca del Sol y la Luna

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Attraction | "Huacas del Sol y la Luna"

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These ancient Mochica structures rise out of the desert looking more like mountains than human-built pyramids. One feels a sense of unreality - did people actually build this giant structure made only of Adobe bricks? Now, the area is surrounded by low-lying buildings, comprising small villages of mostly indigenous people. But at one time, grand pyramids rose up from the desert and between them, an ancient city.All entrances come with a complimentary guide and we had a sweet woman who was struggling to improve her English, and the tour was more fun for the English-Spanish exchange where we tried to help her come up with the appropriate English phrasing to express certain concepts. And what con...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 3, 2007

Huaca del Sol y la Luna
near Las Delicias Beach
Trujillo, Peru

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Chan Chan

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Attraction

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Chan Chan was once the largest Adobe city in the world at 20km and even today you can see its oblong walls and structures spread out on all sides of the highway, as you drive in from the airport to Trujillo. The city consisted of nine palaces and even more structures that housed the city workers. Today, only a few parts of the city are safe and restored for visitors. Much of the city is in danger of being destroyed and lies unprotected, and it is said that thieves lie in wait for the unsuspecting would-be Indiana Jones. Only 14km is presently being protected.The most popular site is the Tschudi Palace. One of the nine palaces of the original city, it is the only one that has been restored and ...Read More

Chan Chan was once the largest Adobe city in the world at 20km and even today you can see its oblong walls and structures spread out on all sides of the highway, as you drive in from the airport to Trujillo. The city consisted of nine palaces and even more structures that housed the city workers. Today, only a few parts of the city are safe and restored for visitors. Much of the city is in danger of being destroyed and lies unprotected, and it is said that thieves lie in wait for the unsuspecting would-be Indiana Jones. Only 14km is presently being protected.

The most popular site is the Tschudi Palace. One of the nine palaces of the original city, it is the only one that has been restored and signposted for visitors. Each time that a king died, his entire palace complex became a tomb, and people would continue to visit the complex but only as a kind of ancestor worship. They ceased to live within the complex. When the emperor died, all of his concubines and some of his servants and warriors were killed along with him. So these palaces were like house-tombs, both at once. The structure reminds one of Eastern homes, with a series of courtyards. The first courtyard was for the commoners and visitors and tradesmen, and each succeeding courtyard is smaller and more personal. It reminds one of China's Forbidden City.

The scale of these places is quite astonishing, and the artwork, fishes and otters carved into the walls, is quite different and beautiful. Chan Chan is so different from Machu Picchu, the other great citadel of Peru. It lies in a flat desert by the sea, with only two colors visible - the blue of the sky and the yellow of the Adobe.

Visitors will find it is very inexpensive to visit Chan Chan, particularly in comparison to the aforementioned Machu Picchu. It is only a few dollars for an entrance ticket, and you can pick up a guide for only a few dollars more. We were lucky to meet a young man who claimed descent from the Chimu, and knew many of the Chimu words. He even told us the original name of Chan Chan. While Chan Chan means "Sun Sun", the original name Nik-An means "Home of the Moon." Much more appropriate for a culture (the Chimu) who worshipped the moon and the tides moreso than the sun.

If you are in the area, Chan Chan is a must-see. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 3, 2007

Chan Chan
Between Trujillo and Huanchaco
Trujillo, Peru

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