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According to the "font of all knowledge" (our youngest), there have been 90 "verified cures" at Lourdes over the years, and this is all down to the kindliness of St. Bernadette. We parked at the top of the hill in a large visitor’s car park, and followed the multitude of tourists down the hill. We were staggered to see some of the most amazingly tatty souvenir shops that we’ve ever seen in our lives. They were selling cheap plastic effigies of St. Bernadette to hold holy water, to stand in "snow scene domes," act as pencil stands; a range of transfer beakers and plastic drinking vessels; some of the most grotesque postcards (one that sticks in the memory is one of Jesus on the cross who appeared to wink at you as you walked past the giant postcard) and much, much more. We passed by but were surprised to see those in holy orders purchasing some of the tat.

Our first point of call was the house in which Bernadette was born, and where she lived happily for the first 10 years of her life with her parents, siblings, grandmother, aunts, uncles and cousins--although we found it difficult to understand how this large family group fitted into this compact riverside residence. There are photographic displays showing life in Lourdes in the 1850s, and it is made very clear that Bernadette’s family were in the poorer echelons of this community. Indeed by 1854, the family were unable to pay the rent of this modest mill house and had to move to a smaller and cheaper mill-house; and by 1857, they were again evicted from their home and were forced to live in the prison (the equivalent of the English Work-house). We also visited the prison--a dank an oppressive environment that did not leave much to our imagination. This is definitely not somewhere that I would have wanted to stay for more than a few hours.

At Bernadette’s first home, the ground floor is crammed with furniture and memorabilia, and the notices remind us that this was a multi-purpose room that serves as a kitchen, living, and dining room, and the focus for family prayer meetings in the evening. It would certainly be an intimate family home. The pace around this museum was dictated to us by the slow procession of tourists visiting the home. There is one route around, and no possible chance to dawdle to take in the exhibits as the hoards are behind, you wanting to move on. This was a visit to experience, as this woman is legendary for Christians and non-Christians alike.

To begin with there was a regular trickle of local people making their personal pilgrimage to the now sacred site (approximately 30,000 a year) taking the spring water from the cave where the first vision had appeared and praying in or near to this grotto. By 1876 the first basilica was built directly above the grotto and the first signs of commercialism set in as the water from the sacred spring was piped to make it more accessible to the crowds. After the first mention of a miracle cure, attributed to Bernadette and the sacred spring, the trickle of Pilgrims became a veritable flood and the newly built Basilica became hopelessly overcrowded and the church began to focus on the need for additional space. In 1958 the current church was built to accommodate up to 20,000-seated faithful and ensure that the 5 million yearly visitors had access to a comfortable place of worship. Even so it is not uncommon for the outside plaza to be filled—scenes that must be reminiscent of a popular rock concert!

To the right of the church on the banks of the river is a large hospital type building where the chronically disabled will be fully immersed in one of the 17 curative pools. When we visited there were queues of people in wheelchair with family or members of the church patiently pushing them to the destination, which they were praying would cure them of their illness.

There’s a degree of reverence linked to the grotto as believers and non-believers pass through (it probably only holds 6 people at a time) and soak in the atmosphere. The Church is spectacularly beautiful and the original Basilica is hushed and sombrely lit. Around the church are hundreds, if not thousands of testimonials to the power of the site and collections pf crutches mark the fact that the disabled have left here walking.

The view off the "first floor patio" across the sculpture littered plaza and to the river is awe-inspiring as throngs of visitors pour down the steep streets towards the Basilica. If you feel fit take the route, the signs of the cross, up the hill for an interesting insight into the ways of the faithful in Lourdes. At the top you’ll be rewarded with a view across the town.

If you're wondering; my eldest son’s cramps disappeared shortly after visiting the grotto, and the bites on my other son’s face irritated less by the time we returned to the car. A miracle? I think not, but it certainly added to the mysticism of this venerated site.

We were fortunate to be able to park on a street (instinct telling us that we were near enough to the harbour to walk) and had a pleasant meander through the residential areas of the town. The "petit train" was in full operation and the main harbour road was crowded with people visiting a market and craft fair. There was a hubbub as we jostled our way through the crowds and we finally ended up in what we chose to call "artist’s square". This was a hive of industry with the usual caricatures being sketched for willing tourists with more serious completed works for sale in the shade of the trees. My son cast his "professional eye" over the works and was almost tempted to buy until he spotted what was seemingly an extortionate price tag— "too much" he muttered, "I’ll knock one out myself when I get home" (suffice it to say he never did!).

The harbour was a pretty sight with small boats being reflected in the still waters whilst the grand harbour houses overlooked this captive audience. Further down from the port we looked down on a beautifully sandy beach with an almost becalmed sea. Needless to say it was crammed with people.

We then turned our attention to the Church of Saint Jean de Luz. There’s been a church here since the 12th century and its been destroyed, burnt down and rebuilt numerous times over time until the current church in the mid-17th century. Famously Louis' XIV married Maria-Theresa of Spain here on June 9, 1660; and it’s interesting to note that following this royal wedding the doorway, where they left the church, was blocked up so that no-one else could use it again (a plaque marks the occasion).

The current church is probably unique with its vault-like nave with plain whitewashed-walls, with three floors of black bantered galleries clinging to them like limpets on the seashore. Indeed the ocean theme, with the nave resembling a ship’s hull, is continued by a model ship hanging from the vaulted ceiling. The original ship was donated by a wealthy merchant shipper, and was later replaced by Napoleon III’s wife as a form of thanks for the narrowly missed sinking just off the coast. The story goes that the weather is foretold by the direction the ship is facing!

The altar in this fascinating church is an absolute masterpiece with some superbly intricate carvings and sensationally rich colours, both on the altar and in the designs around the double arches leading to it. I guess the splendour is endorsed and exaggerated by the simpleness in the rest of the church. A magnificent church in a marvellous seaside town.