Provence Journals

The Small Towns of Haute Provence

Best of IgoUgo

A September 2000 trip to Provence by food&fun

Quote: From Forcalquier to Sault, through Revest du Bion, with a side trip for lunch in Apt, we experienced the small towns of Haute Provence.

    The Small Towns of Haute Provence

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Overview

    Quote:
    Haute Provence is best explored close up, where you can inhale the fragrance of the lavender. Miles and miles of lavender fields stretch through the area. Even after it has been harvested and the bushes trimmed to fuzzy balls, as it was in Sept. when we visited, the warm air is full of the scent. Sault is to bikers attempting the climb up Mt. Ventoux as Base Camp is to climbers on Mt. Everest. And if you don't bike and still want to explore up close, motor scooters are available for rent by the day or the week in Forcalquier.Quick Tips: Best Way To Get Around: We enjoyed getting around by bike and motor scooter during the day, and had a rental car as well. Public transportation...Read More

    Hostellerie du Val de Sault

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Hotel

    Quote:
    In addition to the room rates above, there is a ‘Gourmet’ package that includes breakfast and a multi-course dinner. (For the dinner review, please see my separate dining journal.) When we stayed (late Sept.) the Gourmet Stay was the only option available. This was 'base camp' for people of many nationalities embarking on the challenging bike climb up Mt. Ventoux. The proprietors are very bike-friendly, and there is even a covered, enclosed 'garage' for bicycles. The motel appears to have been an old strip-motel that has been completely refurbished into a resort-type place. The rooms are paneled in lightwood. Our room had a comfortable bed with fluffy comforter, a very modern bathroom, a s...Read More

    Member Rating 3 out of 5 on October 27, 2000

    Hostellerie du Val de Sault
    Ancien chemin d'Aurel, rte. St. Trinit
    Provence, France
    (4) 9064-01 41

    Auberge Charembeau - Forcalquier

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Hotel

    Quote:
    The hotel is about 2 miles outside Forcalquier and parking is ample. The grounds are lovely, with large grassy areas and mature trees. There is a swimming pool and a petanque court. The owners are a lovely couple with a small child, so children are welcome. A very calm, large Bouvier-de-Flandres dog greets you upon arrival. Mme. Berger speaks fluent English and M. Berger speaks a little. The buildings in the hotel complex look like old stone farmhouses, but the insides are up-to-date. Each of the 28 rooms is different. Our room had a small entryway, and ample sized-bedroom and bath. The double bed was comfortable. They also have apartments with kitchenettes, available by the week. Bre...Read More

    Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 28, 2000

    Auberge Charembeau - Forcalquier
    Route de Niozelles
    Provence, France
    (04) 9270-9170

    Bernard Mathys

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Restaurant

    Quote:
    Based on good reviews, we took a side trip from Forcalquier for lunch. (Forcalquier is an hour's drive.) The restaurant is located in the village of La Chene, just outside Apt. Bernard Mathys is a beautiful mansion-house. There is a grand stairway in the entrance hall, but a velvet rope cordons it off from diners. I suspect the owners live upstairs. We were the first to arrive -- at noon -- and the staff was looking out the windows as we walked up. Then they hustled to their stations. The dining room is the dining room of the house. The restaurant specializes in fish, and there were several fixed price menus plus a carte presented. I started with a delicate fennel ravioli; it wa...Read More

    Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 2, 2000

    Bernard Mathys
    Le Chene
    Provence, France
    (04) 9004-8464

    Les Marronnaires

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Restaurant

    Quote:
    Les Marronniers is a pizza restaurant by night, but at lunchtime, it is a wonderful spot for home-style cooking. Our first lunch was so good that we returned the next day, even though the menu was the same. A hearty and filling three-course lunch was about $14. Wine was inexpensive. The first day, I started with a mushroom omelet (cooked as only the French can cook omelets) and small salad, and my husband had cold slices of smoky ham with an herbed sauce and small salad. I had a huge bowl of mussels drizzled with cream sauce and fries done just the way they should be -- hot and crispy outside and tender inside. My husband had a big pot of lamb stew with artichokes, served with a generous po...Read More

    Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 27, 2000

    Les Marronnaires
    Revest du Bion
    Provence, France

    Le Lapin Tant Pis

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Restaurant

    Quote:
    If you like lamb, this is the place for you. If you don't, try another place because that's all they were serving as a main course! (Check the menu posted outside the restaurant if you're worried.) We like lamb, so we enjoyed the dinner. We started with melon gazpacho topped with shreds of cooked rabbit. It sounds weird, but it was delicious. The gazpacho was pureed honeydew, seasoned with a subtly hot red pepper that you noticed only in the finish. It was drizzled with flavorful olive oil. Olive oil is a specialty here -- there were several varieties on the table, and the chef had a generous hand with it in the food. I had lamb in honey sauce, and it was delicious, perfectly cooked and t...Read More

    Member Rating 3 out of 5 on October 27, 2000

    Le Lapin Tant Pis
    3 Rue des Cordeliers
    Provence, France
    (04) 9275-3888

    Restaurant Hostellerie du Val de Sault

    Best Of IgoUgo

    Restaurant

    Quote:
    Guests at the hotel have priority, as there is a hotel package that includes dinner. There is a menu available for non-guests; guests are served a set menu with no choices. We ate there two nights. On both nights the appetizer was pretty good, and the fish course was excellent. The main dish and desserts were typical, mass-produced hotel food almost reminiscent of dorm food. The cheese course was unremarkable. The first night, we had a fluffy meatloaf-like cake made of chicken livers, monkfish in tarragon cream sauce, really terrible veal cutlet in tomato-onion sauce, soft goat cheese with chives and olive oil, and strawberries with whipped cream. The next night we had an individual souffle wit...Read More

    Member Rating 1 out of 5 on October 28, 2000

    Restaurant Hostellerie du Val de Sault
    Route St Trinit (In the Hostellerie du Val de Sault)
    Sault, France
    (04) 9064-0141

    Holiday Bikes - Motor Scootering in Haute Provence

    Attraction | "Motor Scootering in Haute Provence"

    Quote:
    My three travel companions were avid road bicycle riders -- 75 miles in a day up and down hills was nothing to them, and they came to Provence to bike and bike and bike. There was no way I could keep up. The solution: rent a 50cc. motor scooter! It worked so well, we are hoping to do that again. The scooter I rented -- which was absolutely brand new -- had a top speed of about 35 mph and would easily go slowly enough to stay with the bikers. I arranged the rental through Holiday Bikes, the rental agency, via e-mail and FAX, before I left and picked the scooter up at Moto-Culture, the Holiday Bikes agency in Forcalquier. I was given a choice of a small trail-type scooter or a larger, heavi...Read More

    Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 28, 2000

    Holiday Bikes - Motor Scootering in Haute Provence
    Moto-Culture, 5 Boulevard de la Republique
    Provence, France