Description: Florianska Street, just off the Rynek, is Krakow’s busiest street. It houses a myriad of cafes, pubs, upscale shops, and a McDonald's. It is a touristy, pedestrian street, but at one time, it was the center of commerce and home to upscale citizens. Jan Matjeko, Poland’s famous painter, once lived here. His house is now a museum; we passed it frequently and never did find time to visit, but I am sure that was our loss.
At the end of the street is the Florian Gate, part of the old-city fortifications. I was surprised that McDonald's was allowed so close to it. Monarchs once entered the city through this gate on the Royal Routs. Perhaps, these days a king would want to stop and grab a Big Mac.
On the left side of the street there is a charming cafe/pub, although I would not classify it as a pub, as it is more like a cozy restaurant. To enter, head under the small arcade on Florianska, and down the cellar steps to the left. They do have a summer patio, but it was closed in April.
The interior of this spectacular cellar is inviting and friendly. The vaulted red-brick rooms reminded me of the Cava’s of Paris. The decor harks back to the era of Kaiser Franz Josef. Gleaming wood work and brass glint and shine, and a charming brass chandelier hangs in the middle of the room, giving it an air of quiet elegance. The tables each sport a flickering candle and fresh flowers.
We ate here several times. It was comfortable, after a day of sightseeing. The staff came to know us, and we looked forward to sharing our day with them. They, in turn, were anxious that we enjoy the town and provided helpful information. We also enjoyed our conversations covering Polish culture, and the impact tourism has had upon it.
The menu is varied, with a good selection of local dishes: beef, chicken, steak, sausage, and fabulous soups. Our main course usually consisted of pierogies, crepes, dumplings, and pancakes; all with tasty fillings, such as cheese, sour cream, mushrooms, potatoes, and vegetables. We always had a starter of roasted almonds (hot, salty, and so good). Fresh vegetables and salads completed the meals, as did sometimes-chunky bread. For dessert, we enjoyed apple strudel, Pope’s cream cake, chocolate cake, or ice cream served with fresh fruit and whipped cream.
We both took a liking to the vodka (I never drink it at home), but I enjoyed one flavored with honey (Krupnik). It tastes like Drambuie. Neil enjoyed the Zubrowka (Bison). All in all, we enjoyed our visits to this friendly place. Our bills averaged around $40 for two, not including tips, and its clientele was of mixed ages, from the mid-20s to over 70. Do try this place when you get the chance.
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