From Santa Cruz the path is upwards; Cochabamba and La Paz being the first destinations. Since I recently reviewed in detail this country - see Planning Bolivia and my other Bolivian journals – the descriptions here would be skeletal and refer only to the travel…Read More

From Santa Cruz the path is upwards; Cochabamba and La Paz being the first destinations. Since I recently reviewed in detail this country - see Planning Bolivia and my other Bolivian journals – the descriptions here would be skeletal and refer only to the travel planning considerations of such a trip.

Cochabamba

The fourth biggest city in Bolivia (with roughly half a million inhabitants) Cochabamba shares the basic design of Bolivian cities: a tiny downtown surrounded by endless shantytowns. However, its peculiarities make it well worth a visit: the main city in the Bolivian Valleys has the best climate and food in the country. Rich in extremes, Bolivia has few mild areas; in Cochabamba the proximity to the equator and the Amazonian Basin is balanced by the height since the city is well above the 2500m above the sea level. It is higher even than Santa Fe in New Mexico. Yet, most Bolivians refer to it as being "deep down in the valleys."

Further south is the Avenida de las Heroinas, where many cheap restaurants offer some of the best Bolivian food. Following it eastwards, the cable car reaching the Cristo de la Concordia is reached. If walking the streets did not cause any symptoms of altitude sickness (80% of the people feel perfectly well at this altitude) then the hill may be climbed by foot. At the southern edge of the downtown, there are two points of interest. Next to the San Sebastian Hill and the main bus terminal is an amazing food market. Being in such a central location in Bolivia, Cochabamba displays products from the various climates zones. Tropical fruits fight for space among the Altiplano's potatoes and altitude fruits from the valleys. Beef from Santa Cruz is shown next to guinea pigs from the Altiplano. Nowhere in the country is this richness equaled. East of it is the northern shore of the Alalay Lake. Despite being undeveloped, the novelty of seeing a major Bolivian city next to a lake makes the visit well-worth.

La Paz

La Paz is one of the few world cities you won't forget your first view of it; like Rio de Janeiro, Venice and Hong Kong, it was built on a unique environment. This effect is especially true if you arrive to the city by bus from the south (like from Oruro or Cochabamba); then, after passing its twin city, El Alto, which sits flat on the plateau, the land breaks down and you will see a city occupying a crater-like space. That combined with the lack of oxygen at that extreme altitude, you would experience a perfect illusion of having landed on another planet. After recovering your breath you will take a second look and discover that the crater is open in one side and just there, filling the whole of that opening is Mount Illimani. You will fail not to fall in love with it at first sight; its snow-covered trinity of peaks is the permanent stage of that huge amphitheatre called La Paz. Dusk or dawn, rain, sun or clouds, the mountain always provides an ever-changing focal point of beauty. Please see my Planning Bolivia journal for more on this beautiful city.

Here the traveler has several options. Depending on time, venturing also a bit into the Bolivian Amazonian Basin is recommended. The most accessible options there are: Coroico and the Death Road and Sorata, which provide unforgettable views of tropic rainforest blending with snowed mountains in perfect – though unusual – harmony.

However, in a cross-South America trip as this is, the main destination from here would be to what used to be the Inca Empire.

If wishing to meet what is left from the Inca Empire, there are two key locations for the international traveler: Cusco and La Paz. Both are very high; unluckily, most travelers completely obliterate altitude acclimatization considerations. Despite Machu Picchu the attraction not being at an extreme altitude, a significant percentage of people would experience mild altitude sickness symptoms there. Invariably, all human bodies would experience an acclimatization process to the decreased air pressure; I’ve described that extensively in the past. That means bad news for travelers rushing through the area from sea-level Lima, especially if unaware of his – or hers – reaction to altitude; everybody is different with respect to that. Well, that is unless you descent into Cusco.

Despite Cusco being higher than the vast majority of human settlements, La Paz is even higher. Acclimatizing in La Paz before reaching lower Cusco makes more sense since most of the activities and attractions in La Paz require less effort (unless engaging in trekking or climbing). Moreover, large cities – as La Paz is in comparison to any other settlement in the area - provide a more comfortable environment for resting and acclimatizing during a few days. Moreover, there is another reason for choosing this path. It closely follows the source and heart of the Inca Empire, which was deeply related to the Andean High Plateau and not to the arid coasts of the Pacific Ocean. Making a round trip between La Paz and Cusco allows visiting also the Lake Titicaca and Tiwanaku, both related to the birth of this high altitude empire.

If adopting this strategy – centering the high altitude trip between La Paz and Cusco – then visiting the Titicaca Lake and Puno is unavoidable (flying over the spectacular landscape of the area in a single hour would be a waste). Lake Titicaca is vast, offering the traveler two main routes between La Paz and Puno. Most travelers chose the shortest past through Copacabana. It allows exploring of the "Isla del Sol" (Island of the Sun), a pivotal point in Inca mythology, as well as visits to one of the most important cathedrals in Bolivia and its adjacent "Calvario." Yet, I have described in the past also the crossing via Desaguadero, the town at the southern tip of the lake, which is split between Peru and Bolivia. Each one of these trajectories offers special views and thus is worth experiencing both of them. Buses and taxis to Puno are available from the Peruvian side of both borders. Both paths are relatively easy and straightforward. The only point of concern is security, and that holds for both sides of the border. Eventually, Peru and Bolivia are pretty similar societies, what holds for one is usually true for the other.

The Southern Seas

If looking at very old literature – from the 19th Century or older – one would find the Pacific Ocean was known back then as the Southern Seas. If looking at a map, this name makes little sense; unless you know what to look at. Loot at the Panama Canal, it crosses the land from east to west. It means the Caribbean Sea is north of it, while the Pacific Ocean is in fact … the Southern Seas.

From La Paz there is a very short way to the ocean. Buses from La Paz terminal depart every morning to Arica on the Chilean coast, and arrive there in the early afternoon. Few places in the world allow you to climb from sea level to well over four kilometers height in less than two hundred kilometers of well-paved road.

The spectacular border between the countries is divided in two different areas: the Chilean and Bolivian outposts are some ten kilometers from each other, and each one provides different views. The Chilean side name is Chungara, which is the name of the neighboring lake as well; both are at 4844m above sea level. The deep blue water practically touches the immigrations’ building and friendly birds allow the traveler to take pictures while waiting for the stamp. Beyond the lake, there are two beautiful volcanoes of an almost perfect conical shape that are called Nevados de Payachata and which occasionally smoke. In Bolivia, the pass is called Paso Portezuelo de Tambo Quemado; near it is the highest mountain in Bolivia, actually a silent volcano called Sajama that rises up to 6550m above sea level.

Most of the way passes through a very arid and steep landscape with occasional llamas and cactuses, but one hundred and fifty kilometers after the departure, Putre, Tarapaca Region’s capital, is reached. If wishing to explore it, the best is in the way back of Arica.

Closing the Loop

Back in La Paz from this short detour in the circle drawn by this trip, it is time to move southwards, to the highest mountain in the Americas.
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After a quick snack at the Lido Bar, I crossed the street to Asuncion’s central plaza and decided to make a quick survey of the center despite the heat and the bright, burning sun. The first hours in a place provide the strongest, more long-lasting…Read More

After a quick snack at the Lido Bar, I crossed the street to Asuncion’s central plaza and decided to make a quick survey of the center despite the heat and the bright, burning sun. The first hours in a place provide the strongest, more long-lasting impressions and I wanted to take advantage of that.

The Plaza de los Heroes was a typical colonial one, except for the fact that two perpendicular streets divided it in quarters and that one of the corners – next to the Chile and Palma junction and to the Lido Bar – was occupied by the Panteon de los Heroes (Heroes Pantheon). The last was a ghastly reminder of the country bloody and disastrous wars; avoiding it, I walked around the plaza and found the regular grid of streets so common in colonial towns. The few people around moved slowly and the gaps between following cars was of whole minutes. The fact that it was Sunday afternoon for sure contributed to the desolation; the place looked unnaturally empty, almost ghostly so. Dogs and cats were absent and birds could not be heard. Was it the heat?

Returning to Chile Street I headed for the riverside; after a few blocks the regular streets’ grid broke apart and the 19th century cathedral appeared at the right side. I did a mental note to visit its museum at the first opportunity, crossed the Plaza de la Constitucion – again, divided by several streets – and found in front of me the Congreso Nacional (National Congress). The imposing building blocked the sight of the languidly blue river, but walking to the left trough the Avenida Republica quickly corrected that. I had been warned beforehand by the hotel concierge about this area and the reason soon became evident. Groups of young people stood by the corners and followed my advance with a predators’ interest. I put my camera away and began walking faster. The well guarded Palacio de Govierno (Government Palace) came soon into sight. It seemed too big for such a sleepy town and was the clearest sign to the country former importance. In front of it was Casa Viola, a historic museum closed on Sundays.

Few other sights were of particular interest, except for the railway station on Eligio Ayala Street. It dates back to 1856 and was one of the first in the continent. It was relatively well preserved and well worth the extra few blocks I walked to reach it.

However, I wasn’t here for the town, crossing the Chaco was my intention. I’ve done that in both the Argentinean and Paraguayan sides and most recommend warmly (the adverb fits the temperatures there) the second one. In a continent full of strange landscapes, the Chaco is one of the most bizarre. If it was a complete desert it would be easier to describe. Suffering of unreliable rains, the yellowish sand fits only for wild shrubs to grow; reaching up to three meters, they obstruct any other sights. Even knowing that – and maybe due to that knowledge - my crossing it was inevitable.

In the early afternoon I arrived at Asuncion’s bus terminal – quite far away from downtown – and bought a forty dollars ticket to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, in Bolivia. The bay number and departure hour were clearly stated on the ticket; I happily left my luggage at the terminal and returned to downtown. Roughly an hour before the departure time the terminal welcomed me back and I relaxed on a bench with a generous portion of terere, a kind of iced tea which fitted the forty-five degrees Celsius weather outside.

A cool ten minutes before the departure time, I approached the relevant bay and found neither people nor a bus. I opened the glass door, walked into the burning air and asked a guard what happened. "Salen de la oficina," "they leave from the office," he told me with a cruel smile while pointing at a bus that was leaving the terminal.

Without thinking twice, I re-entered the terminal building, crossed it running, and left through the main entrance, just in time to see my bus appearing on the main road. With no other options – I did not know where the office was – I run after the bus for two blocks. That was not what I had paid for. The bus stopped next to a house packed with people and eventually left some thirty minutes after its schedule – in a more South American fashion. My protests were answered with a deep silence.

The bus was modern and comfortable; it seemed to have a strong air conditioner and a television that didn’t stop working. Most passengers brought into the bus enough food for a month and many of them were Mennonites. Soon after leaving we got a big dinner and my mood began to improve: soon I was to see the Paraguayan Chaco!

Travelling at night did not make things easier. Despite the air conditioner, the bus heated up quickly and became as steamy as the surroundings. Sleeping was not an option and most passengers were swinging between various states of sturdy stupor. Three and half hours after midnight the bus stopped at an immigration booth, just after a town called Filadelfia. Despite being roughly at the country’s centre, our passports were stamped out. To my questions, the other passengers smiled vaguely pointed westwards and said: "Nada," (nothing). Seldom have I heard a more accurate statement.

Soon after the asphalt disappeared and there were no signs of civilization. With the first lights, I could see we were travelling on a narrow sand path surrounded by shrubs and nothing more. Only a customs check broke the boredom; a colony of butterflies was flying around their well watered garden.

Nothing.

A vast emptiness.

An hour after noon, we arrived at the Bolivian Ibibobo border cross. Shortly after, the landscape changed into a hilly one – the trademark of Tarija and a few hours later we entered the Santa Cruz plains. At 10PM, after twenty-five hours of almost uninterrupted travel – shaped as our seats - we entered the city of Santa Cruz. From now, the only thinkable path was up to the Andes Mountains.
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One of the best parts of traveling is learning to use local transports as a denizen; after having done that in Asia, where often I was unable even to read the signs, South America turned out being a piece of empanada. In Buenos Aires, it…Read More

One of the best parts of traveling is learning to use local transports as a denizen; after having done that in Asia, where often I was unable even to read the signs, South America turned out being a piece of empanada. In Buenos Aires, it meant getting to know Retiro.

Retiro

Retiro is located south of the exclusive Recoleta neighborhood and north of San Nicolas and is the main travel hub of Buenos Aires. Its name originates in a grand mansion that occupied what nowadays is the San Martin Park and that was called "The Retiro." Between the two world wars this was the place where immigrants arrived, the historical "Hotel de Inmigrantes;" it is now a museum of that era. The San Martin Park occupies a large area almost connecting the low parts of the neighborhood with downtown; since it is on slanted ground, it allows excellent views of Retiro. One of the most famous monuments in the area is in front of the railways terminal and resembles a miniature Big Ben; accordingly it was called "Torre de los Ingleses" (Englishmen Tower); however, since the Falkland War the name was changed to Torre Monumental.

Retiro is accessible also by "subte," the subway railways of Buenos Aires. The Line "C" terminus station – this is the line running perpendicular to all others and roughly parallel to the main 9 de Julio Avenue – can be accessed directly from the Retiro Mitre Railways Terminal. Line "E" would be connected here in the future; the planned lines "G" and "H" would also begin from here.

By far the largest single structure in the area is the Retiro Railways Terminal; behind it is the infamous "Villa 31," one of the poorest neighborhoods in the city. The terminal itself consists of three structures, each one home to a different company of railways: the proper names are Retiro Mitre, Retiro Belgrano, and Retiro San Martín; the second part of the name denotes the company served in that part of the terminal. Retiro Mitre – the most impressive structure in the complex - has been declared a national monument in 1997. The impressive structure features at least one coffee shop that should not be missed; the traveler is assured to feel like in Europe of the late 19th century while sipping his espresso.

Sadly, in 1993 all the passengers’ lines were cancelled, except with the short distance one to Tigre (from where boats cross the Uruguay River to Uruguay). Since 2003 the trains to Rosario have been renewed and since 2005 to Tucuman and Cordoba. Yet, no responsible traveler would trust such an option; it is better to check out once there if there are any available trains, if not, the Retiro Bus Terminal offers better services to wherever Argentinean trains go.

The largest bus terminal in Buenos Aires is also located here, next to the railways terminal. More than forty metropolitan bus lines pass through it and it is connected practically with any city of importance in the country. Moreover, buses to Montevideo, Santiago de Chile, Asuncion del Paraguay, Porto Alegre and Sao Paulo also leave from here regularly. There is a fortnightly service to Bogota, Colombia. The huge terminal doubles as a commercial center; even barbers can be found in the building. Having used it extensively, I am happy to report that there is no need to make reservations. I always found seats even to main locations like Mendoza, Rosario and Tucuman. Argentinean buses are modern, rather expensive and most of them offer basic meals and stops from time to time. Some of them, my favorite, even feature complimentary coffee all along the trip.

The side of the neighborhood facing the river features a port. That would be of little interest for the regular traveler if the Buquebus Terminal weren’t located there. Buquebus is the name of the fast boats service connecting Buenos Aires with Montevideo. A direct trip costs well over a hundred American dollars, but the expense is justified; I found the trip comparable to the crossing of the Pearl River with Hoover Boats from Macau to Hong Kong. A way of lowering the expense is taking the Buquebus from Buenos Aires to Colonia. Colonia del Sacramento is one of the major touristic attractions in Uruguay – maybe even in South America – from there are frequent buses to Montevideo.

Choices

The simplest way of reaching Asuncion del Paraguay is through an overnight bus. Usually I’m against such direct, international lines since they tend to disconnect the traveler from the road. Yet, here it assures an amazing sunrise at the border cross. Other options would include a visit to Rosario, Argentina’s second city or a leisure trip via the watery Entre Rios.

Rosario

Rosario is a big industrial city along a wide river in a very hot area; hardly an alluring stop. The city was built exclusively on the west bank of the Parana River. The eastern side is empty without houses or visible agricultural activity, the nearby city of Victoria is not visible. Apparently, the reason for that is that the river is the limit between the Santa Fe (where Rosario is) and Entre Rios (the name means "Between Rivers" referring to the Parana and Uruguay ones) provinces. Entre Rios is east of the river and very low at this part, thus the Parana eastern bank resembles a swamp; the greenery makes it difficult to delimit the river and the land. Luckily packs of what seems to be wild cows help identifying solid ground.

The point of origin of the city is Plaza 25 de Mayo, which is surrounded by the Municipality (Palacio de los Leones), the Basilica Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, the Central Post Office, the Decorative Art Museum and a building called La Bola de Nieve. The central plaza feels different from other similar places in other Argentinean cities since on one of its sides, next to the cathedral, the ground drops sharply towards the river. Between the Cathedral and the municipal building is Pasaje Juramento ("Oath Passage"), leading to the Flag National Park, which occupies all the way to the river.

Located between 1º de Mayo, the Paraná River, Bjda. Sargento Cabral and San Juan, this park is the main symbol of the city and is featured on the Argentinean 10 ARP note. The park honors the Argentinean flag that was created here on February 27, 1812 by General Belgrano. Strangely, the event is commemorated on June 20, duetoits inauguration on thatday of 1957. The site is on the location of a defensive post of the Argentinean army during the Argentinean Independence War. Beyond an extensive esplanade featuring an eternal flame, statues and an attractive geometrical setup, there is a tall and squarish column on the side near the river. Climbing it is possible with the help of an elevator (2 ARP fee); on its top there are four windows, each facing a different direction offering awesome views of the Parana River and the city. Right below it, the monument to the soldiers killed during the Falkland War can be seen.

Cordoba Street begins near the Flag Memorial Park, climbs toward the center, and then becomes a pedestrian walk between Plaza 25 de Mayo and Plaza Pringles. This a good place for enjoying a break at one of the stylish coffee shops. Further west along this street is the Paseo del Siglo ("Walk of the Century") featuring houses of wealthy families.

Colon

If choosing to travel through Entre Rios, then Colon is a recommended stop. It is best reached from Rosario, making thus a natural stop – though a bit too eastwards - to Asuncion. I described in the past my surprising encounter with this town, which turned out being a major resort. Despite the difficulties I described there, the sunrises by the beach are spectacular. From there, continuing northwards is a breeze of very hot air.

Asuncion

In the hottest month of the year, by noon, I arrived to Asuncion for the first time. As I approached downtown my excitement grew, because the place reminded me of a much loved city. A wide, lazy river delimited it on one side, the houses were low and often there were huge gaps among them. Any non-constructed patch of land seemed to have been conquered by lush, wild vegetation. Many of the people around had attractive, dark skin and slightly slanted eyes. A digital thermometer at the central plaza showed forty-four Celsius and it was horridly humid; water seemed to be the place essence.

"It is like Vientiane" I silently summarized while I left my luggage at the room that was awaiting me.
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Landing in a new continent may be exhilarating but also confusing. Where to start? Where to go? South America is large and underdeveloped; meaning that exploring it takes time, patience and pain. Culturally it can be divided in two main parts: Spanish and Portuguese speaking…Read More

Landing in a new continent may be exhilarating but also confusing. Where to start? Where to go? South America is large and underdeveloped; meaning that exploring it takes time, patience and pain. Culturally it can be divided in two main parts: Spanish and Portuguese speaking areas. The Spanish speaking part is also a dichotomy divided between the Andes Mountains and the lowlands by the Atlantic Ocean. Most of us can dedicate only a limited amount of time to an exploratory trip; one month is about right for such an adventure. How to organize it so that a significant part of the attractions is visited without transforming the trip into an endless stay at boring terminuses? This journal presents a feasible proposal.

As I did in the past for Southeast Asia, this proposal draws a circle, though it has two detours to special locations. It explores the Spanish speaking central southern South America, crossing it from east to west. Despite its simplicity, the plan offers a surprising richness of sights and cultures.

Being circular, this trip can begin in a variety of locations, yet I chose Buenos Aires since it is the main city in the area. Moreover, I was forced to attach this journal to a country (in the past it was possible to attach journals to continents) and Argentina is the main country explored in this proposal, making Buenos Aires the natural starting point.

Weather is an important consideration while traveling. The fact solar seasons in South America are inverted with respect to where most of humanity lives is of importance to the traveler, but not overwhelmingly so. As explained in Seasons, weather depends also on other factors, as altitude and closeness to the equator line, Crossing the continent means meeting a variety of climates so that during most of the year the traveler would meet a varied mix. Except for two extremes points in the trip – the Chaco and the Andes – most travelers would experience no difficulties in adapting to the weather.

Ezeiza – Buenos Aires international airport – would be the first stop of travelers along this trip. Unluckily, that means delays due to its very old infrastructure. Last time I was there it took me a couple of hours to pass through the immigration, despite the stamping itself being fast and efficient. Long lines and few booths create an almost impenetrable bottleneck; the best approach would be to schedule for a flight arriving off-hours, when there are fewer arrivals.

Once in Argentinean land, travelers arriving during the summer (December to February!!!) would probably be happy to take a rest from the flight by the beach. This is the time to do the first detour (can it be a detour before the formal trip even began?), to Uruguay, which is almost one endless beach. The same taxis reaching downtown from Ezeiza, can drop you by the nearby Buquebus dock, from where fast boats cross the river to Colonia and Montevideo, both in Uruguay.

Colonia del Sacramento is closer to Argentina, just next to the encounter of the Uruguay River with the Plate River; it is a colonial city with a mixed heritage: it was founded by the Portuguese but it was conquered later by the Spaniards; its hybrid styled streets tell the whole story. Montevideo, the capital, reached its peak about a century ago, and that can be appreciated in its leading architecture style; the main buildings from that period are wonderfully kept and walking around the town center is a feast to the eyes. Beyond that the city offers fourteen kilometers of good beaches alongside the Plate River; here the river is so wide that the Argentinean shore cannot be seen. Punta del Este is the place were the Plate River meets the Atlantic Ocean: you can walk between hot, sweet water beaches and cold, salty water ones; this resort is by far more expensive than Montevideo.

Eventually, the beach party would end and the eager traveler would be back in Buenos Aires. I dedicated four journals to this city (Frozen Tango, Buenos Aires without Steaks, More Buenos Aires and Buenos Aires B’s) thus I won’t make an extensive description of this interesting city here.

Buenos Aires is where tango street dancers compete with loud music for the travelers’ attention; short skirts and high heels represent the hopes for a better tip and nearby barbeque joints add an additional local touch. Its main highlights are:

Lavalle and Florida Walking Streets: these two perpendicular streets host much of the cultural activity in downtown: the main cinemas, restaurants and souvenirs' shops are concentrated in this small area.

Avenida Corrientes: Along the local Broadway, you will find the main theatres. Shakespeare, musicals and post-modernist plays are available all along the year.

Colon Theatre: placed along the widest city avenue, this is an impressive structure offering guided tours to its grand interior daily between 11am and 3pm.

Caminito: An old port quarter, this street has been transformed into a colorful museum in the heart of the Boca quarter.

San Telmo Flea Market: the main tourist quarter has its own flea market, in Sunday's morning free tango shows can be appreciated among the stalls.

Danish Church: in San Telmo's heart there is a beautiful Lutheran Church constructed in 1931 with North-European blueprints.

La Recoleta: the most exclusive cemetery in town resembles a ghosts' city with sometime macabre memorials.

Buenos Aires Downtown: the commercial centre resembles Shanghai's Bund; a truly European quarter in a foreign continent.

Boca Juniors and River Plate Stadiums: Soccer fans are here in their own celestial dilemma; which stadium should they visit first?

Probably millions of words have been written about the weird attraction of humans to phallic symbols. We would never know the reason of that for sure, but a consolation is offered in the pervert dimensions of that symbol in certain places, like the Obelisco in Buenos Aires, which at 63m is high enough to allow parachuting from its top.

What are all these when a whole new continent awaits the traveler? It’s time to venture northwards and inland, to the steamy tropics.
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Buenos Aires architecture is characterized by its eclectic nature, with parts of the city resembling Barcelona, Paris and Madrid. The Argentines appear to value their European heritage highly and the lifestyle and architecture are markedly more European than any other in South America. Today glass-sheathed…Read More

Buenos Aires architecture is characterized by its eclectic nature, with parts of the city resembling Barcelona, Paris and Madrid. The Argentines appear to value their European heritage highly and the lifestyle and architecture are markedly more European than any other in South America. Today glass-sheathed skyscrapers cast their slender shadows on 19th century Victorian houses and other parts of the city have seen the evolving of styles that are almost unique.

Obviously, the Spanish had a major influence on the early architecture of the country. Italian and French influences increased after the declaration of independence at the beginning of the 19th century. During the second half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th, other European influences penetrated into the country, reflected by several buildings of Buenos Aires such as the Iglesia Santa Felicitas by Ernesto Bunge; the Palace of Justice, the National Congress, and the Teatro Colon, all of them by Vittorio Meano.

The simplicity of the baroque style can be clearly seen in Buenos Aires in the churches of San Ignacio, Nuestra Senora del Pilar, and the unusual Cathedral. By 1900 Buenos Aires was considered to be one of the twelve world capitals with the finest architecture. Buenos Aires was said to be the third fastest growing city in the world behind Hamburg and Chicago. From 1880 to 1930, Buenos Aires went through a major makeover, unparalleled anywhere. Throughout these years the ever-growing sophisticated architecture aimed to symbolize the country’s prestige and greatness. Some of the finest buildings, for instance, the National Postal Office building, were designed by the same architects in charge of designing buildings in New York and elsewhere.

The architecture of the second half of the 20th century continued to reproduce French neoclassic models, such as the headquarters of the Banco de la Nacion Argentina, and the Museo Hispanoamericano de Buenos Aires. This style was to be complemented during the early 20s with innovative styles such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco. However, since the 1930s the influence of European rationalism has been pronounced. The construction of skyscrapers proliferated in Buenos Aires until the 1950s and many of these are still interesting.

Newer modern high-technology buildings by Argentine architects in the last years of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st include the Le Parc Tower, the Torre Fortabat and the Repsol-YPF Tower. These buildings, and others like them, can be seen in the city centre but also throughout the newly developed Puerto Madero area. But other areas are interesting as well.

In the San Telmo district, the city's multinational heritage is embodied in a varied and cosmopolitan architecture - Spanish Colonial design couples with Italian detailing and graceful French Classicism. La Boca's pressed tin houses are painted a rainbow of colours, and muralists have turned the district's side-streets into avenues of interest.
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We were seduced by the crumbling facades and cobbled streets of this neighbourhood. It was once the up-market area of the city and after years of neglect it is once more slowly being gentrified. We enjoyed exploring and if we were antique lovers, this would…Read More

We were seduced by the crumbling facades and cobbled streets of this neighbourhood. It was once the up-market area of the city and after years of neglect it is once more slowly being gentrified. We enjoyed exploring and if we were antique lovers, this would have been heaven.

San Telmo is the oldest neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. It is a well-preserved area and is characterized by its colonial buildings. Cafes, tango parlors and antique shops line the cobblestone streets, which on weekends are often filled with artists and dancers. San Telmo's attractions include old churches, museums, antique stores and a semi-permanent antique fair (Feria de Antiguedades) in the main public square, Plaza Dorrego.

San Telmo became the most multicultural neighborhood in Buenos Aires in the late 19th-century, home to large communities of British, Galician, Italian and Russian-Argentines. The large numbers of Russians in San Telmo and elsewhere in Buenos Aires led to the consecration of Argentina's first Russian Orthodox Church in 1901. This is well worth seeing. The area suffered badly during the early 20th-century and some of it became derelict. San Telmo's bohemian air began attracting local artists after upwardly mobile immigrants left the area. Growing cultural activity resulted in the opening of the Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art by critic Rafael Squirru in 1956, as well as in the 1960 advent of the "Republic of San Telmo," an artisan guild which organized art walks and other events.

Buenos Aires is the home of the tango. Ask anyone in San Telmo, and they’ll tell you that the dance was born there (although you’ll get the same answer in La Boca, and elsewhere). The best way to experience tango is by taking classes or going to a tango show. Tango shows take place in special restaurants, where you pay one price for a meal and a display of dance and music. The tango dancers are artists and athletes, and the shows are marvellous.

If you are into antiques San Telmo is where to go. The main street, Calle Defensa, is lined with antique shops. There are literally dozens of them, selling every sort of antique imaginable, from shiny old brass locks to books to old gaucho knives. There are some antique stalls in the San Telmo market as well. The best time to walk around San Telmo is either on Saturday or Sunday, as the main streets are closed to traffic. It's true that at the weekend it becomes a tourist spot, but you'll also get to see one of the best antiques markets in town, as well as a small army of street performers singing and dancing tango.

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Puerto Madero, is a district of the Argentine capital, occupying a significant portion of the Rio de la Plata riverbank and representing the latest architectural trends in the city. We discovered it almost by accident and found it a pleasant place for strolling by the…Read More

Puerto Madero, is a district of the Argentine capital, occupying a significant portion of the Rio de la Plata riverbank and representing the latest architectural trends in the city. We discovered it almost by accident and found it a pleasant place for strolling by the water. The area was originally a major dockland but it had become derelict over time.

In the 1990s, local and foreign investment led to a massive regeneration effort, recycling and refurbishing the old west side red brick warehouses into elegant houses, offices, lofts, private universities, luxurious hotels and restaurants. This is the area nearest downtown and the most accessible for visitors. The Buenos Aires Hilton, other hotels, state-of-the-art multiplex cinemas, theatres, cultural centres, and office and corporate buildings are located in the east side of the development. The neighbourhood's road network has been entirely rebuilt on the east side.

Today it is one of the trendiest boroughs in Buenos Aires, and has become the preferred address for a growing number of young professionals and retirees. Increasing property prices have also generated interest in the area as a destination for foreign buyers, particularly those in the market for premium investment properties.

The new 2 km Puerto Madero Tramway line serves the area, running parallel to Alicia Moreau de Justo Avenue (along the ward's western side) but this did not seem well used by either locals or tourists. We took a ride and were the only ones onboard. The neighbourhood is still not well-connected to the city's transit network. Few bus routes run through Puerto Madero, no subway line reaches it and there are currently no official plans to extend the subway network to the neighbourhood.

There are several minor tourist attractions here including the Uruguay Corvette, a ship built in England around 1877 and which served as part of the Argentine Navy for a number of years. Today the ship is a museum open to the public. The Sarmiento Frigate is also here (see another entry in this journal). The Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge) is a pedestrian bridge that connects each side of Puerto Madero. Visitors come to the Buequebus Terminal at the north end of the area, which is the terminal of the ferry company Buequebus and is used by travellers to go to Colonia and Montevideo in Uruguay.

While nothing exceptional, Puerto Madero is a nice place to walk along the water and there are ample benches all around if you want to just sit and relax and enjoy the nice day. There are many restaurants in Puerto Madero which cater to tourists - menus printed in English, outdoor seating, and higher prices. The outdoor seating is nice and the atmosphere is enjoyable but we thought the food was little different to other cheaper areas.
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Take an appetite with you to Buenos Aires. We knew little about Argentine cuisine before arriving in the country but quickly came to enjoy what was available. Most Argentines eat a light breakfast, usually bread and tea, maté or coffee, a large lunch and then…Read More

Take an appetite with you to Buenos Aires. We knew little about Argentine cuisine before arriving in the country but quickly came to enjoy what was available. Most Argentines eat a light breakfast, usually bread and tea, maté or coffee, a large lunch and then another large meal after nine - usually much later. If you wish to adopt this regime and you get hungry before 9pm, there are pizzerias confiterías where you can get deli type meals, including a pancho or hot dog. As a visitor you will have more options though. Your hotel is likely to have a buffet breakfast on offer with hot and cold dishes and dinner is usually available from around seven.

Though porteños enjoy a varied ethnic cuisine thanks to their immigrant ancestors, the traditional Argentine meal of beef is most popular. It is something you need to try. Much of Argentine beef is exported, but in Buenos Aires, you'll find plenty of restaurants to enjoy what is saved for local consumption. Steak houses called parrillas abound. Some call attention to their menus with stuffed cows in the doorway or cook their meat in the windows. In Buenos Aires, beef is truly the King.

To fully enjoy meals in Buenos Aires, you need to understand the cuts of beef. The following comes from an Argentine source and is a good reference:
bife de lomo is equivalent to a sirloin steak and is the leanest and most expensive cut
bife de chorizo is cut from the rib near the rump and a very popular cut
bife de costilla is a T-bone steak.
tira de asado is a strip of rib roast big enough for two
vacio is the bottom part of the sirloin porterhouse and flank and is the juiciest cut
A parrillada is a mixed selection of beef cuts, other meat and sausages. If you like your meat rare, order it juogoso. Medium is al punto and well done is bien hecho or cocido. We were surprised to find that there were not many vegetables, potatoes, rice or other accompanying items with your meat. However, salad and bread seem to be traditional as starters and the salads may be anything from a sliced tomato to a mixed salad with eggs and artichokes. Combine this with an Argentine wine, either red tinto or white blanco, and most visitors will be really satisfied.

For dessert, we found that there is usually a choice of fresh fruit, custard or cheese and preserved fruit, or queso y dulce or pastries made with dulce de leche. Juices are popular as are licuados or juice blended with milk. For a hot drink you can order coffee at any time but be aware that it will be a very strong espresso. You can also order café chico which is a thick strong coffee in a small cup or café cortado a small coffee with a touch of milk, often served in a glass. Café con leche, coffee with milk is usually served at breakfast only. If you are a tea drinker, and want milk in your tea ask for un poquito de leche else your tea will be served with lemon slices.
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Best places for breakfast with a great view. Manolo (Bv. Maritimo Patricio Peralta Ramos 4800) is famous for its churros and its food offers good value for money: huge portions and good quality. Confiteria Boston (see review) is a must for croissants. Mirador Waikiki (AV.…Read More

Best places for breakfast with a great view. Manolo (Bv. Maritimo Patricio Peralta Ramos 4800) is famous for its churros and its food offers good value for money: huge portions and good quality. Confiteria Boston (see review) is a must for croissants. Mirador Waikiki (AV. Martinez de Hoz 4320) has fantastic panoramic views of the city and the sea. The best tables are on the deck. Expect long waits during the summer season. The secret to beating the crowds is simply getting everywhere very early, while everybody else is still in bed.

Public transport is pretty good. Buses go everywhere, including to nearby towns like Santa Clara del Mar and Miramar. Again, during the peak summer season, buses get packed to the rafters when everybody and their wife decide to go to the beach, more or less between 12 pm and 3 pm, and when it is time to go back home, around 6 or 7 pm. It sure is a long crawl to the beach. You can’t pay for your fare in cash; you have to get a prepaid card. It costs AR$ 1 and each fare is AR$ 1.60. The card can be bought at special kiosks or at any outlet of the Riadigos pharmacy chain and it can be used on any bus line except the number 221. If you take the 221 bus, you must pay AR$ 1.70 to the conductor.

If you can’t be bothered to do your own laundry, head to one of the many launderettes and have it done for AR$ 15 per load (about US$ 4). Most are part of the LaveRap franchise (I think it’s the biggest in the country). The price includes "servicio de valet", which means that you drop your laundry off and someone will wash it, dry it and fold it for you.

How to get to Mar del Plata. You can fly, drive, or take a long distance bus or the train. There are many bus companies that service the city. LADE, Aerolineas Argentinas and Sol Lineas Aereas fly into Astor Piazzolla airport (airport code MDQ.) Trains leave from and to Constitucion Station in Buenos Aires.

Mar del Plata offers a unique combination: sunbathing and shopping. There are many vendors hawking their wares at the beach: coffee, ice-cream, bikinis, sarongs, bracelets, jewellery and so on while you work on your tan.

Shops like convenience stores, supermarkets, eateries, etc, are open all day every day, but the rest, nuh-uh. Most shops selling non-essentials like clothes or books generally open late, between 4 and 6 pm and close even later, at around midnight. The reasoning behind it is if it’s sunny, people would rather go to the beach, not shopping, and then go out later in the evening. They may open earlier on a rainy day.

If you go to MDQ during January or February, you’ll probably have to wrestle people for a square foot of sand. These are the months when the majority of the population takes their summer holidays. So my advice is to stay away from the centrally located beaches (La Perla, Bristol) and head south, past the lighthouse, to La Morocha, La Serena or La Reserva. You’ll probably have to pay for the privilege of parking there but it’s a small price to pay!
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The terminal near downtown Buenos Aires is very modern and like a small airport or cruise ship terminal. There is a baggage check in area, a nice area with tables, a snack bar, and a couple of shops. When we entered the terminal there was…Read More

The terminal near downtown Buenos Aires is very modern and like a small airport or cruise ship terminal. There is a baggage check in area, a nice area with tables, a snack bar, and a couple of shops.

When we entered the terminal there was a schedule of trips on the wall and an information booth. If you are going to Colonia there is the choice of a one-hour Buquebus or a three-hour ferry trip. The 3-hour one is, of course, a lot cheaper, in fact almost half the price. At the Ventas line you tell them which trip you want and show your passport. You have a choice between first class and tourist class. You then go to pay at the Caja (cashier) and are issued a ticket. There is a booth next to the Ventas where you can change Argentine pesos or US dollars to Uruguay pesos.

There is an area to check luggage but most people just had carry-on. We were given a boarding pass and then went through immigration. Immigration officials from both countries are surprisingly in the same room. We obtained our exit stamp from the Argentina side of immigration and were then pointed towards the Uruguayan immigration official in the same room who gave us an entry stamp. That way once you get off in Uruguay, you don't have to queue to enter the country.

Once we entered the departure area, we noticed people were lining up to board even though there was still 45 minutes to departure. Since there are no assigned seats you line up to get the best seats. There is an enclosed walkway to the ferry, and on board we were pleased to find the seats are like airline seats but much bigger and with plenty of leg room. They also reclined nicely. There was plenty of room to store your carry on under the seat in front of you. In the back there was an area with a few tables. There was a snack bar that sold sandwiches, soft drinks, coffee, tea, beer, wine and pastries.

Once we were underway, a small duty free shop opened. They were selling perfume, alcohol, cigarettes, and candy. The cigarettes and alcohol, especially American whiskey, seemed to be hot items.

The trip over was relaxing except for a noisy group of soccer supporters who were going to support their team but who in the process disturbed everyone else of the ferry. It was easy to move around even though the ferry was virtually full. The weather was calm so there were virtually no waves, just a gentle rocking. On the way back we had an even larger vessel which was almost like a small cruise ship. The whole exercise was pleasant and quite efficient.
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