There are three main choices from getting from San Jose International Airport and Manuel Antonio. The first is by bus; there are several bus companies that make this run. It's inexpensive but takes a long time. I wasn't up for spending my valuable travel time on a bus. The next option is to fly. There are several small commuter airlines who fly the San Jose to Quepos (the airport nearest the national park). These flights are the quickest and easiest way, but this was rainy season, and I didn't feel up to flying a small prop plane in the height of a summer thunderstorm. So I opted for the third choice, and that was to drive.
I can proudly say I have driven all over the world, in many major cities and remote parts of the globe, so I was confident I could easily handle the roads of Costa Rica.
I had taken an all night flight from LAX to San Jose and I was a little on the punchy side by the time we landed in the morning. I first off urge anyone taking the all-nighters NOT to do as I did. The drive takes your full attention and being alert. If I ever did the all-nighter again, I would make sure I was very rested, and I would get a room in San Jose before I made the perilous drive to Manuel Antonio.
I was surprised as I went into the Avis lot to pick up my car. The bus had to drive through a huge iron gate with an armed guard allowing us in. The entire lot was surrounded by massive barbed wire. It was a little daunting. The agent gave me a verbal and written warning on numerous scams taking place on the highway. He warned us to always get to a gas station with a flat, or if anyone hits you, not to pull over but head to a police station instead. Some of the robbers throw nails or glass on the road in hopes you will pull over to change your tire or even pour sugar in a not-watched car at a filling station. Again, it made one a little anxious to hear so many warnings and scams. But soon, I was on my way with the warnings seared into my brain.
Just getting out of San Jose was a challenge. You share the highway with vendors, dogs, horses, ox carts, and just folks on foot. The ticos did not slow down a bit. I felt nervous being on this fast-moving obstacle course. I have to admit, I saw numerous dead dogs who did not fare so well.
Soon, I was out of the city and learned that not all roads are well- or clearly marked. Even those with signs don't give you advance notice. The first time you will see a sign is when you are at the place you need to turn. I learned I had better keep a sharp eye and watch what looked like a sign up ahead. It would have helped to have a navigator on this drive!
Soon you are beyond the city limits and the road goes through some magnificent country side. You start climbing the steep hills, and down below, you can see the green, green rain forest. Rapid rivers and streams poured down the hills below me. It was so scenic, it was hard not to take my eyes off the road to just gaze. Unfortunately, these roads are narrow and curvy, and there is no place to pull over and just soak in the view.
The traffic is bad and the road often gets clogged behind large trucks hauling everything from lumber to oil up this mountain road, and at times the traffic barely inches along. The "ticos" take unbelievable chances on these roads. They will pass anywhere. I have seen cars charging around blind curves, passing a truck. They go well beyond the speed limit and fly around the mountain curves. It made my heart skip a beat more than a few times, watching these daredevils pass. A few times, I too had to pass a truck that was barely moving, but I tried to keep it in areas where I could see a few miles down the road for other cars. This part of the road takes a lot of concentration and a lot of skill.
One of the must-stops enroute is Crocodile Bridge. You can't miss it. It's a large bridge that has cars parked by the dozens on both sides. You too should park on either side and walk on the footpath on this bridge. Look down, and you will see what all the fuss is about. Below you are dozens of crocodiles just basking in the sun. Actually, the merchants on both sides of the bridge keep these crocs well feed. It's good for business, as when you stop your car to observe, you may end up buying a Coca-Cola or even lunch. It's a win-win deal for the crocs and the merchants. I stopped and was amazed at these fat and happy crocs; there were at least twenty of them, and I was thankful they were far below while I had the safety of the bridge!
Soon the hills start to flatten out and you come to the beach town of Jaco. Jaco is surf-central, and the town has the same buzz as on of the surf towns in California. It's full of young men and woman with blonde hair and dark tans. The city has tons of surf shops. The local traffic is more Californian than Costa Rican. You will hear awesome, dude and very little Spanish on the streets. Like any surf town, Jaco is filled with fun bars, cafes, and restaurants. This is about halfway to Manuel Antonio and a great lunch stop. I ate here on my way back and it was great to watch the surfers master some awesome waves.
When I got back on the road, I no longer had to worry about ox carts, but skateboarders. The highway was clogged with young guys, all challenging the cars with their skateboards.
From Jaco, the road flattens out. It looks like on the map this should be an interesting drive as the road hugs the coastline. However, you are just far enough away from the coast that you don't see it. Every once in a while you get a treat an a small peek at the ocean, but mostly you see the farm land. Here the rain forest has been cut away for farms. This used to be the biggest banana growing region in Central America, but a disease wiped all the banana plantations away. Today they grow coconut oil here. You will get behind large trucks hauling hundreds of coconuts to the refinerary down the road. This area is not scenic and very uninteresting. Many large vacation home developments have also marred the landscape here.
Coming near Quepos, you will cross several bridges that look more like something from the set of Indian Jones. They are rusty, missing most of their wooden boards, and you can't imagine safely crossing them. But you must--this is the only way to get to Quepos. I bit my lip and pressed on. The vehicle ahead of me was a large truck--it made it, and so did I. I had to stop and take a photo of one of these bridges, they were really in bad shape!
Soon, you have made it to Quepos, and from here, Manuel Antonio is just up the hill. It took me about four hours without any stops, and I was exhausted.
On the way home, I was pulled over by a policeman near Jaco. I was going 88km (54mph) in a 80km (49mph) zone (although a lot of traffic was passing me). The officer told me the fine would be $40 and was to be paid in cash to him. He did not write me a receipt or a written ticket. But what was I to do? I had a flight to catch. So I gave him two twenties and was on my way. When I got back to Avis, the agent confirmed this was a scam. He told me often local cops will clock speeders and let the Costa Ricans off with a warning and a wink. The tourists are asked to pay a fine on the spot that goes right into the officer's pocket. The agent told me I was lucky--he has often heard of fines of $100 or more.
I was happy I drove the route. I saw some sights that I would not see by air. The countryside here is breathtaking. My only warning is to stay alert and be well rested before taking the four-hour drive through Costa Rica. You will need all your senses!