by phileasfogg

New Delhi, India

November 11, 2010

The Neemrana Fort Palace is one of the dozens of forts that dot the desert state of Rajasthan. This one was built in 1464, and by the end of the 1900’s was in ruins. In the mid 1980’s, two partners, Nath and Wacziarg, bought it and ran a huge renovation project on it, converting it into the flagship hotel (or `non-hotel’ as they label their properties) of the Neemrana Hotels group. Today, they’ve added to the fort. There’s a conference room, an amphitheatre, a swimming pool, spa and gym, large shop, and rooms interspersed with terraces, courtyards, quiet verandahs and balconies that offer great views of the low hills around and the village (Neemrana) below.

We’re a largish group this time: my parents, my sister and her husband and kids, Tarun and I. We book four rooms (tariffs, facilities, and features are available at www.neemranahotels.com). Tarun and I get the Dakshin Mahal (all the rooms have the `Mahal’ prefix: a mahal is a palace). Our room’s on a manmade promontory: below us is the village; on the other are the pool, the dining hall, and the amphitheatre.

Our room’s quiet and lovely: block-printed fabrics in warm reds and orange; fittings in traditional carved wood; large mirrors, and summery white curtains. There’s airconditioning, mineral water, fixings for tea and coffee, and a basket of Neemrana’s very own signature shampoo, lotions and face wash. No TV in any of the rooms, but a central recreation area—the Raj Mahal—does have one. On the whole, very clean, comfortable and with a deliciously homely feel. As if we actually were house guests at a not-too-intimidating palace.

Neemrana isn’t hot on things to do. Other than a medieval stepwell, there’s nothing to see, although if you’re lucky and you come when the hotel’s fairly empty, you may get a staff member to take you on a guided tour of the hotel itself.

Neemrana’s perfect for lazing around. We spend our time chatting, swimming, watching the sun set, and reading. And yes, we gorge ourselves: Neemrana lays on appetising buffets, a mix of Indian and Continental food that’s generally good. The desserts, especially, are a hit with us. My nephew eats only soup and a roll, then fills up on chocolate mousse, apple crumble, and coconut flan!

All in all, a wonderful place for a relaxing and happy weekend. Neemrana’s very popular since it’s only about two hours from Delhi, so book in advance (through sales@neemranahotels.com; they’ll confirm only after you pay up at their Delhi or Mumbai office). Note: the hotel spreads across eleven levels, all along the hillside. Wear comfortable walking shoes because you’ll need to climb up and down stairs. And yes, ask for a room in the old part of the fort. The newer rooms, though they’re nice, lack the quaintness of the medieval fortress, with its narrow corridors and delightful courtyards.

by phileasfogg

New Delhi, India

September 11, 2004

A ruin till it was renovated by French experts in the 1990s, Neemrana blends medieval and modern, East and West. The rooms, each one unique, are scattered across the entire palace. Ours was the Geru Mahal (`Terracotta Palace’- its walls are partly terracotta-wash). It was a cosy turret room atop the fort, with a stepladder leading up through the window onto a terrace. Inside the room, wooden beams sloped up to a conical ceiling; there were brass lanterns, old paintings, antiques, Victorian furniture and Rajasthani block print upholstery. The only thing disconcerting was the bathing area- it was part of the bedroom, merely cordoned off with two head-high walls. The toilet was, to our relief, separate, and had a great view – Neemrana prides itself on `loos with views’!

The other room our family booked was the Bagh Mahal (`Garden Palace’- it opens on to a pretty garden). It’s a long, lovely room, with beds arranged footboard to headboard, rather than side by side. A little cramped, which was why the folks shifted to the Jalaj Mahal (`Lotus Palace’) – a beautiful room next to a quiet lotus pond. The room was decorated in cool shades of green, lavishly decorated with a lotus motif.

Neemrana has a swimming pool, yoga classes, health spa (with ayurvedic treatments) and cultural programmes. The latter wasn’t a novelty for us Indians, but was okay if you hadn’t seen anything like it before. A local quartet- a somewhat tipsy middle-aged man, a fat woman, a teenaged girl and a small boy- sang and danced a bit from 7 to 8.

For dining, there’s the French restaurant (very avoidable) and the buffet (very good). The lunch buffet (served from 12.30 to 2.30), for instance, consisted of an eclectic menu, in which the local food won hands down: it featured lentils, okra with spiced onions, lamb cooked with pickling spices, fresh fruit and mawa kachori (sweetened thickened milk encased in syrup-dipped fried pastry- rich but luscious). Buffets are served in the courtyard and the adjoining pillared hall. Tea, served on the terrace between 5 and 6, is equally great- we got a choice of lemon tea, Earl Grey and Darjeeling tea (besides coffee), bhajjiyas (fried savouries, made of a batter that has loads of spinach and chopped onions), cookies and a mouth-watering fruitcake.

Neemrana’s USP is its quiet charm- this isn’t a noisy resort with a million things to do. The highlights here include sipping tea on the cool terrace; watching the parakeets in the trees; and exploring the palace. Peace? Yes – and in royal style too.