The mountains, they say in Puerto Rico, are the heart of the country, a mystical place that exists in a seemingly different universe from the island's bustling coastlines. My boyfriend and I stumbled upon this restored 19th century former coffee plantation while driving along the twisty, panoramic highway that cuts across Puerto Rico's central mountains, sometimes referred to as the Alps of the Caribbean. The route is treacherous along a narrow, two-lane road crowded with other drivers, island residents and the occasional chicken. But nowhere in Puerto Rico was more relaxing than the splendid Hacienda Gripinas. The inn, which opened to guests 30 years ago, is set on 23 acres of beautiful hills
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