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On the southwest corner of Ireland lies four peninsulas, all beautiful in their own right, but the largest of these and often regarded as the loveliest among them is the Kerry Peninsula. The road that takes you around this peninsula is called The Ring of Kerry and is regarded as a "must-see" among Irish sights. Most visitors tend to base their trips in this area from the town of Killarney, a fairly sizeable town located just east of the peninsula, and which has several tourist attractions in its own right. However, we passed up Killarney - with its inevitably inflated-for-the-tourists hotel prices - and found lodgings at the lovely
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On the southwest corner of Ireland lies four peninsulas, all beautiful in their own right, but the largest of these and often regarded as the loveliest among them is the Kerry Peninsula. The road that takes you around this peninsula is called The Ring of Kerry and is regarded as a "must-see" among Irish sights.
Most visitors tend to base their trips in this area from the town of Killarney, a fairly sizeable town located just east of the peninsula, and which has several tourist attractions in its own right. However, we passed up Killarney - with its inevitably inflated-for-the-tourists hotel prices - and found lodgings at the lovely Ocean Wave House, located just east of the village of Glenbeigh.
It should be noted that generally, travellers are advised to journey the Ring of Kerry in a counter-clockwise direction, particularly as some parts of the road are quite narrow. Glenbeigh, therefore, is a great place to spend the night - and that way, you can get a jump on the tourist buses first thing in the morning. We enjoyed our stay at Ocean Wave, and went down to the local pub at The Towers Old Bar in the heart of town. The Old Bar is a wonderful Irish pub experience, with a ring of rugged locals around the bar, and sun-kissed young adults fresh from the waves at Rossbeigh - the very scenic beach at Glenbeigh, located on Dingle Bay, and a perfect area for watersports. Glenbeigh is very picturesque, with brightly painted houses and lots of flowers. The climate here is decidedly mild, with year-round breezes from the jet stream.
Unfortunately for us, the day dawned overcast, and I think the main reason we choose to actually still do the drive was that we were there and therefore, it was going to be done! Views of Dingle Bay were lovely, though clearly not as striking as they'd be under sunny skies like we had had the night before.
Near Glenbeigh, you can see the Bog Village, a small cluster of buildings restored with their thatch roofing, and worth a look if you've never seen thatching.
A few miles down the road from Glenbeigh was the Church of St. Finian. As my father filled up the gas tank, my mother and I scrambled over to wander through its graveyard, thick with a jumble of Celtic crosses, newer headstones, and graves marked with hand-placed stones. We loved being able to explore graveyards like this across Ireland.
On the western side of the Ring lies the road to Portmagee, and the Skellig Heritage Centre. If the weather had been good, this would have been a primary stop; the Skellig Centre is located on Valentia Island, which is home to a wildlife sanctuary as well. At the visitor's center (open daily at 10am), you can explore the history and information about nearby Skellig Michael, where one of the best-preserved monastic outposts of the Early Christian period can be found. Michael Skellig and its sister island, Small Skellig, rise from the Atlantic waters like a pair of dreadnaughts on the near horizon. It is hard to imagine what compelled the monks to choose such a lonely outpost, 600 rocky feet above the sea. If you plan to visit Skellig Michael itself, try to work out (Stairmaster!) before you go, because you will have to climb from your boat to the ruins.
One of the most thrilling views we got the whole trip around the peninsula was when the clouds broke briefly and a shaft of light fell from the sky, directly onto the Skelligs and across the heavily surging Atlanitc waters, making them glow like a halo, and the turgid ocean reflecting playfully around them. I could've stayed in that spot for ages, gazing in admiration at the random beauty of creation, but a bus blew by us in the opposite direction, its wake leaving our car shaking for a moment - the spell broken, I gazed back towards the islands, but the sunlight was gone. Unfortunately, too, there are not many places to be able to just pull over and enjoy the view a little, and by the time we'd found a spot to turn around, it had begun to rain once more.
The rain dampened our spirits for the Kerry Penninsula, so we did not stop for much else here, nor did we make it on to Kenmare, which is famous for its lace. The tourist shop at Sneem was a decent stop to grab a bit of grub and a few souvenirs; they had a very nice selection of woolens.
Some day when I visit Ireland again I will definitely make it around the Ring again, next time under sunnier skies, and maybe stay an extra night or two in the area to better enjoy it. There is too many interesting things we missed: the Iron Age Staigue Fort near Castlecove; Muckross House and traditional farm; Ross Castle; the Ogam Stones (which show off some of the earliest form of writing to appear in Ireland) near Beaufort village; the stone circle near Lissivigeen; the well-preserved Muckross Abbey ruins; and of course, the Skelligs. Ireland is far too interesting to be seen at 60kph!
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