Catch Up with Kipling

Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling

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Attraction | "Bateman's Gardens"

Pear Alley Photo - Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling, East Sussex, England

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Having entered the premises from the National Trust gatehouse (£6.85 per adult) you’re straight into the upper garden with a fantastic first view of the 17th Century home of Rudyard Kipling and the open fields and wooded hills beyond. There is a fairly steep incline down to the house passing neat rows of country herbs with a great many that I’ve never seen or heard of before including Vervain (used in druid love potions!), Soapwort (traditionally used for washing but believed to be effective in treating syphilis), sneezewort (taken in a powdered form as snuff, whilst the root was said to cure toothache), Alkanet (the root’s red dye was used to give good colour to cheap ports) ...Read More

Having entered the premises from the National Trust gatehouse (£6.85 per adult) you’re straight into the upper garden with a fantastic first view of the 17th Century home of Rudyard Kipling and the open fields and wooded hills beyond. There is a fairly steep incline down to the house passing neat rows of country herbs with a great many that I’ve never seen or heard of before including Vervain (used in druid love potions!), Soapwort (traditionally used for washing but believed to be effective in treating syphilis), sneezewort (taken in a powdered form as snuff, whilst the root was said to cure toothache), Alkanet (the root’s red dye was used to give good colour to cheap ports) , Southernwood (known as Lakd’s Love as it was popularly worn as a sprig by gentlemen when out courting). I could go on, but there’s over 30 plants and I don’t really want this journal entry to sound too much like a gardening book!

At the bottom of the slope, nearest to the house, is "Pear Alley" which was designed and tended by Kipling. There are 22 pear trees all trained around an iron frame to form a tunnel of fruit. They include Conference, Beurre Hardy, Winter Nelis and the exotic sounding Doyenne du Comice and underneath are a variety of shade tolerant plants including numerous ferns and comfrey. Alongside the alley is a small greenhouse, which at the time of our visit was home to a resplendent amaryllis lily.

Beyond the formal garden is the orchard around which are Kipling’s herb garden and the kitchen garden. Traditionally kitchen gardens merged "cut flowers" with the vegetable patch and this is no exception to that rule – of course not at its best in April. The orchard has an interesting collection of trees (I was only expecting apple) including Almond, plum, quince, mulberry, various apples, and something called Medlar (never heard of it before, but the hard fruit was apparently very popular in Victorian times and were often made into jelly or wine). As someone once said you "learn something new every day!"

The orchard’s gentle slope merges seamlessly into the area that is known as the wild garden. This is a real contrast to the formality of the Rose Garden (see other journal entry) and offers a "back to nature call". There’s a meandering grass track (although a sturdier formed path is there if you prefer) taking us over a small bridge over the River Dudwell towards the mill door. Keep an eye out for the odd pet grave as you pick your way through the garden. In Spring the area is alight with colours with daffodils, primroses, crocuses and cowslips and towards the water’s edge we spied the skunk cabbage that we’d seen for the first time when we visited Wakehurst Place. Kipling’s gardens certainly give variety - all in easy walking. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 16, 2007

Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling
Bateman's Lane
Burwash, East Sussex TN19 7DS
44 (1435) 882302

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Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling

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Attraction | "Bateman's Mill"

Bateman's Mill Photo - Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling, East Sussex, England

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A short walk away from the Rose Garden with a stroll through the wild garden and you’ll reach the mid 18th Century working mill. Although the route to the mill is accessible for wheelchairs there is no wheelchair access to the mill itself, but you can take a "virtual tour" in Elsie’s sitting room in the main house.The mill was closed down in 1903, as Kipling could see no good use for it, and over the years it fell into an unfortunate state of decay. Over 60 years passed before restoration work was started and it was in such a state that I’m surprised that the volunteer force weren’t totally put off by the task. The roof was leaking and broken, bricks were broken and needed chiselling out a...Read More

A short walk away from the Rose Garden with a stroll through the wild garden and you’ll reach the mid 18th Century working mill. Although the route to the mill is accessible for wheelchairs there is no wheelchair access to the mill itself, but you can take a "virtual tour" in Elsie’s sitting room in the main house.

The mill was closed down in 1903, as Kipling could see no good use for it, and over the years it fell into an unfortunate state of decay. Over 60 years passed before restoration work was started and it was in such a state that I’m surprised that the volunteer force weren’t totally put off by the task. The roof was leaking and broken, bricks were broken and needed chiselling out and replacing, the cladding had all but disappeared, and much of the internal timbers were rotten and in need of replacement. Those 60 years of neglect and decay took over six years to put right and it not only required patience but determination and high levels of craftsmanship.

Kipling had removed the water wheel and because he wanted electricity in the house had installed a turbine in its place. This move had reduced the "gap" for the wheel and so the modern replacement is much narrower. The impact of this is quite profound because the modern mill can only drive one pair of stones, whereas the original would have had three grinding at the same time. Productivity would have been high and had they been able to reproduce that level of output we would have been able to buy flour when we visited. As it was they’d run out and we left empty handed!

A historical coincidence can be found in the names of the craftsmen. John Skinner was involved in the building of the original mill and has carved into the stone floor his initials J.S 1795 and almost two centuries later John Smith, involved in the mill’s restoration carves his initials into the timber of one of the replacement pillars J.S. 1975 . The same initials and re-ordered numbers. Spooky!

The smell of the mill takes me back to my childhood when I lived on a farm only a stone throw away from my great uncle’s mill. Strange how those hidden childhood memories can so easily be uncovered. I pondered, for a moment those happy days on the farm and watched the River Dudwell flow below my feet - a mere trickle, I suspect, of its former self. But back to the 21st century and time to enjoy the calmness of the river with its colourful banks and gnarled tree trunks leaning towards the river in a protective stance.

Shame the mill was allowed to deteriorate but "good on" the National Trust for its sensitive restoration. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 16, 2007

Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling
Bateman's Lane
Burwash, East Sussex TN19 7DS
44 (1435) 882302

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The Rolls Royce Garage

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This is by no means the biggest museum in the world, in fact I suspect it will be challenging for that of the smallest. Effectively it’s a large garage that has been adapted to protect its valuable exhibit. A heavy Perspex screen cocoons the 1928 Phantom Rolls Royce. Now I’m not too knowledgeable about cars (ancient or modern) but I could see that this was an extravagant and lavish bit of motor. Kipling, a wealthy man, loved his cars and this would have purred its ways round the quiet country roads. Despite its age the car looks in pristine condition and although the screen makes it difficult to see (because of the way the light reflects back at you) you can get a real good view of the car and its int...Read More

This is by no means the biggest museum in the world, in fact I suspect it will be challenging for that of the smallest. Effectively it’s a large garage that has been adapted to protect its valuable exhibit. A heavy Perspex screen cocoons the 1928 Phantom Rolls Royce. Now I’m not too knowledgeable about cars (ancient or modern) but I could see that this was an extravagant and lavish bit of motor. Kipling, a wealthy man, loved his cars and this would have purred its ways round the quiet country roads. Despite its age the car looks in pristine condition and although the screen makes it difficult to see (because of the way the light reflects back at you) you can get a real good view of the car and its interior (but only if you get close to the Perspex and shield the light a little bit). The plush leather seats are in extraordinarily good condition and the wooden interior shows that no expense was spared to provide a lavish interior. To give it that lived in look a picnic rug lays in the roomy rear of the car and a fur coat is draped on the front seat. The crude looking steering wheel would have ensured the chauffeur (Kipling never ever drove himself) remained with an upright posture befitting of his status.

Although the car is fascinating I really enjoyed reading the three wall mounted plaques which detailed a little more about Kipling and his developing love of the motor car. It sounds like he was a motor car fanatic hiring his first car in 1899 for the princely sum of around £3.50 a week (including a driver / mechanic). It wasn’t too long before he decided to buy one of his own and this was a American Locomobile driven by steam and "somewhat temperamental". In fact the car was so unreliable that Kipling called it the holy terror. His second car was a 10 horsepower Lanchester christened by Kipling as Amelia she "sang like a six inch shell". In 1911 Kipling bought his first Rolls Royce for the princely sum of £1350 (seven years later he traded it in and got £1550 for it).

But for the car on show Kipling had nothing but praise and after a holiday in Scotland wrote "my word! She can go…. She did 115 miles in 160 minutes…There’s no equal to that car. She goes to sleep at 60".

I do find it surprising that a man who loved his cars never felt tempted to drive them, but I guess he felt so comfortable in the back of the vehicle and could exercise his literary mind as he travelled between towns. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 16, 2007

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Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling

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Attraction | "Bateman's"

I could stand here all day! Photo - Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling, East Sussex, England

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Kipling’s house has been left exactly as it was as a family house and so all of the furniture would have been used on a daily basis by Kipling and his family. Kipling recorded for posterity his view of Bateman’s – “We have loved it ever since our first sight of it” and it is “a real home in which to settle down for keeps.” That’s praise indeed for this sandstone house built in 1634. This house really is crammed with furniture and memorabilia and we took in only a small percentage of the whole. Guides are strategically placed in each room and will provide information about their territory – the room that you’re stood in. The impressive oak panelled hallway gives a fairly sombre welcome ...Read More

Kipling’s house has been left exactly as it was as a family house and so all of the furniture would have been used on a daily basis by Kipling and his family. Kipling recorded for posterity his view of Bateman’s – “We have loved it ever since our first sight of it” and it is “a real home in which to settle down for keeps.” That’s praise indeed for this sandstone house built in 1634.

This house really is crammed with furniture and memorabilia and we took in only a small percentage of the whole. Guides are strategically placed in each room and will provide information about their territory – the room that you’re stood in.

The impressive oak panelled hallway gives a fairly sombre welcome to its visitors, being dark and not receiving too much natural light. However, once your eyes acclimatise there are plenty of treats to feast your eyes on including a chequered floor, simple beams and a heavy well-carved dining table and chairs.

Of course the heart and soul of this house can be found in Kipling’s study. It’s at the top of the staircase and the walls are solidly lined with book. His 17th Century walnut drop-leaf table is placed near to the window and his pens, typewriter, paperweight and pipe are regally displayed for the excited visitors.

The lounge, like many of the rooms is formally set out with a high backed and not too comfortable looking sofa and well-worn tapestry footstool. The are pictures a plenty hanging on the walls and an interesting collection of blue and white tableware. Kipling clearly liked order in his life.

Things to look out for as you walk the floorboards of the house, are the handmade wall-hanging in the dining room, the exhibition of jungle book etchings on the first floor and the wealth of superb period furniture. Kipling liked his wealth and used it to fit out his home in his own particular taste.

Outside an avenue of bleached limes, planted in 1898 before Kipling arrived, leads the eye to the pond and the Rose Garden at the far end of the garden. The latter encircled by the yew hedges were all laid out on the clear instructions of Kipling and the original design is still hanging in his study in Batemans.

Interestingly the garden was paid for out of the £7,700 he received for the 1907 Nobel Prize. There are well carved statues overlooking the pond and the immaculately cut lawns back to the house. It truly is a beautiful spot and I can understand how inspirational it became for the great writer. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 16, 2007

Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling
Bateman's Lane
Burwash, East Sussex TN19 7DS
44 (1435) 882302

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Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling

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Attraction | "Burwash and Kipling"

A grand view of a grand house Photo - Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling, East Sussex, England

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Bateman’s is 3 miles out of the village of Burwash, which is worth stopping in just for a few moments. It dates back to Norman times, when William the Conqueror presented the manor to the Count of Eu, as recognition for his services in the earlier battle. The main street is flanked with trees and many of the building pre-date the 16th Century. Opposite the Church, built in 1090, is the Manor House of Burghurst, but only the tower remains of the original structure. In the churchyard there are many an interesting grave engraved with the skull and crossbones, you see in the 18th and 19th Century Burwash was the territory of smugglers. Inside the church’s vestry is a rare 16th Century Bible and a cast iro...Read More

Bateman’s is 3 miles out of the village of Burwash, which is worth stopping in just for a few moments. It dates back to Norman times, when William the Conqueror presented the manor to the Count of Eu, as recognition for his services in the earlier battle. The main street is flanked with trees and many of the building pre-date the 16th Century. Opposite the Church, built in 1090, is the Manor House of Burghurst, but only the tower remains of the original structure. In the churchyard there are many an interesting grave engraved with the skull and crossbones, you see in the 18th and 19th Century Burwash was the territory of smugglers. Inside the church’s vestry is a rare 16th Century Bible and a cast iron slab on the wall is believed to be the oldest Sussex grave slab.

But nowadays Burwash is better known because of Rudyard Kipling who settled in the area in 1902. Kipling who was born in Bombay in 1865, the son of Sir John (who was the head of Architectural Sculpture at the School of Art) began writing, commercially, in 1881 when he sold some of his poetry to the school magazine for which he was the editor. The original manuscript is now on show on the first floor of Batemans – the house, which Kipling said is reached “down an enlarged rabbit-hole of a lane”. A description which is still true to this day as you drive through the small neighbouring villages on the narrow country roads enjoying the rolling countryside that surrounds you.

There are several small country pubs in the villages (too many to mention), just ideal for a lunch stop. Good home made food with locally brewed ales. What could be better? Just take your pick and enjoy the atmosphere.
One of the guides described Kipling’s life as being shrouded in tragedy. In 1899 his eldest daughter, Josephine, died at the age of six following a bout of pneumonia. She had been the inspiration for Kipling’s “Just So Stories” and as Elsie, his youngest daughter reported later on in his life “a light had gone out that could never be rekindled”. To have one child die is certainly tragic, but a few years in 1915 Kipling was to suffer a further loss when his son, John, was killed at the Battle of Loos.

Following her moth's bequest to the National Trust it was Elsie who had ensured that Batemans was to become a lifelong celebration of her father’s life, by helping the Trust to make sure of the authenticity of the house. She advised on the furniture layout ensuring that it truly reflected things, as she remembered, exactly as they had been when Batemans was that family home that Kipling had wanted to “settle down for keeps”. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 16, 2007

Bateman's National Trust Home of Rudyard Kipling
Bateman's Lane
Burwash, East Sussex TN19 7DS
44 (1435) 882302

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