Quote: Chandni Chowk—the `Moonlight Square’ of Old Delhi—is the epitome of exotic India. It’s actually exotic enough to leave even most Indians wide-eyed. And Kinari Bazaar is Chandni Chowk at its glittery, colourful best. This is a long, very narrow street, which snakes its way through Chandni Chowk. Kinari (which literally means `edging’) is the embroidered or woven strip of cloth, often with gold or silver thread worked into it, which is used to edge saris and other items of women’s garments in India.

And although most shops in Kinari Bazaar sell kinari, that isn’t all. They also sell just about every conceivable thing you could need to decorate yourself, a stage, a temple, a wedding banquet hall. The shops here are crowded with garlands of fake flowers and fake banknotes, tinsel coronets and tiaras, theatrical costumes (we saw a tiger body suit with a papier maché mask), sequins, tinsel, lace, crochet work, costume jewellery, bootis (little motifs, usually floral, made of artificial gemstones, fake gold and silver, sequins etc; they’re used to add glitter to clothing), fake feather boas, and—well, anything. As long as it’s bright and glittery.

And while you’re in Kinari Bazaar, do duck into the tiny street called Naughara (or Naugharana), which goes off to Kinari Bazaar about five minutes’ walk from the Dariba Kalan end of Kinari Bazaar. Naughara—the name means `nine houses’—is a cul de sac which contains nine houses dating back to the late 18th century. The houses all have intricately carved stone gateways, and the cul de sac itself is separated from Kinari Bazaar by a gate, which used to be locked at night to keep the nine houses safe.

Since the nine houses of Naughara are all privately owned, you won’t be able to see inside, but the gateways are pleasing enough. Unfortunately, except for one home, all the others have painted the gates over, so what you see isn’t very traditional.

Once you’ve admired the gateways, walk till the end of Naughara and turn right, into the white marble Jain Swetamna Temple at the end of the cul de sac. You’ll have to take off and deposit anything of leather—belts, shoes, handbags, watches with leather straps—as well as cameras, at the reception. You can then climb to the first floor, where a lovely little glass-roofed courtyard floored with white marble leads into an arched prayer chamber that is painted all over. A riot of arabesques—beautifully curving tendrils, leaves and flowers—decorates the outer section, while the inside of the chamber is covered over with paintings of rulers worshipping deities; religious ceremonies; and stories out of Jain mythology. I must confess to not being a fan of Hindu and Jain temple architecture, but this is absolutely mind-blowing. Every inch of the prayer chamber is painted over, with the floral mouldings along every edge painstakingly gilded.

Entry to Naughara and the temple is free; you may, of course, leave a donation at the temple.

From journals Delhi’s Hidden Treasures