Daytrip to Fort Lauderdale

The beach itself is pleasant: clean, palm-lined, attractive. It's much narrower than Miami's (especially apparent at high tide) and closer to the road, so there's more traffic noise. The aesthetically pleasing walkway along the beach is nicely paved with brick, and a curving whitewashed wall separates it from the sand. However, a constant offshore stream of bulky cargo ships pulling into nearby Port Everglades mars the ocean view--the cruise ships sailing in and out of Miami's harbor seem much more romantic. The beach is guarded and offers showers but no public restrooms. You'll have to insinuate your way into one of the bars, malls, or hotels across the street to use their facilities.

Bike lanes along Highway A1A (which fronts the beach) make Fort Lauderdale a decent place for cycling. You can cycle almost the entire length of the beach, then turn up Las Olas Boulevard where the lanes continue. Lauderdale is often referred to as America's Venice because of the Intercoastal Waterway and a large network of drainage canals that crisscross the city. This becomes apparent while biking along Las Olas, which leads downtown. You may even have to stop at one of the canals while its drawbridge rises, allowing tall boats to pass through. At the boulevard's end is the Riverwalk, a large arts, dining, entertainment and shopping complex perched on the banks of the New River. It's a suitable place to stop for lunch or just enjoy the park along the river.

I enjoyed dinner in Fort Lauderdale at Thai on the Beach, located at 901 N. Ft. Lauderdale Blvd. (A1A), a block south of Sunrise Blvd. This second-story restaurant offers a very tasty red curry chicken dish (my litmus test for Thai cuisine) and wonderful views of the Atlantic. Ask for a window table.

Personally, I prefer Miami's international flavor to the bland mall-sprawl of Lauderdale. Miami's architecture is older and more interesting; it's people are more cosmopolitan. Yet I have many friends who swear by Fort Lauderdale. They feel more comfortable in its North American atmosphere than the Pan American ambiance of Miami. Take your pick: both have terrific beaches, and that's what you came to South Florida for.